San Carlos de Bariloche
Understand
San Carlos de Bariloche is a city in the province of Río Negro, Argentina, situated on the foothills of the Andes, surrounded by lakes (Nahuel Huapi, Gutiérrez Lake, Moreno Lake and Mascardi Lake) and mountains (Tronador, Cerro Catedral, Cerro López). Arguably the most visited city in Argentinian Patagonia, it is famous for skiing and is great for sightseeing, water sports, trekking and climbing. Despite being an undeniable tourist magnet, Bariloche is set amidst incredible landscapes which should not be missed by nature-loving travelers. Another claim to fame is its Swiss-like atmosphere and its chocolate boutiques and breweries, and look for the St Bernard dogs on display for tourists.
Weather
San Carlos de Bariloche weather is transitional between the wet climate of the Andes to the west and the dry climate of Patagonia to the east. Areas to the west such as the city centre receive more precipitation than areas to the east such as the airport. Summers are characterized by long stretches sunny, dry, and windy weather with pleasant afternoons and cold nights, occasionally dropping below freezing. The strong winds make the temperatures feel colder than it should be. Spring and fall are variable with some days being pleasant while other days being cold. Snowfall is common in these seasons. Winters are cool to cold with frequent precipitation, bringing stormy weather with mixed precipitation (snow, rain, sleet), occasional snowstorms. Temperatures during the day are usually above freezing and nights are cold. The city receives abundant snowfall during this season, averaging 23-42 cm (9.0-16.4 in), making it an excellent destination for skiing.
Get in
By plane
San Carlos de Bariloche International Airport
- Lade flies from El Calafate. A ticket cost around AR$800.
- Aerolineas Argentinas flies from Buenos Aires. A ticket costs around AR$2,200 / US$550.
- LATAM flies from Buenos Aires. A round-trip ticket costs around AR$2,000 / US$520.
By train
The once-weekly El Tren Patagónico slowly winds along the vast open plains on an 19-hour journey from Viedma on the Atlantic coast stopping by in San Antonio Oeste and several remote outposts along the route. The train offers Pullman seats and sleepers and it's also possible to bring along vehicles. Departures are Fridays at 18:00 from Viedma, arriving just after 12:00 the next day.San Carlos de Bariloche railway station
By car
To go by car to Bariloche from Buenos Aires takes about 22 hours. One of the best alternatives is to go to Neuquen on the first day (a distance of about 1200 km) and then to continue the second day driving about 450 km.There is more than one route to get to Bariloche by car from Buenos Aires:
- Short route: Take “Ruta Nacional Nº 5”, then take “Ruta Provincial Nº 1” nearby Lonquimay. Then, take “Ruta Provincial Nº 18” nearby “Macachin”. Take “Ruta Nacional Nº 35” south for 22 km, and then turn right and follow “Ruta Nacional Nº 152” through General Acha and until the “Casa de Piedra” where the route name changes to “ruta provincial Nº 6”. You must follow this until the intersection with “Ruta Nacional Nº 22”, where you must turn right again through Cipolletti – Neuquen. These big cities are connected by a bridge with an AR$0.65 toll. Follow through the "million" traffic lights until you exit the city. Approximately 32 km later, stop in Arroyito and sleep deeply. Continue driving south using “Ruta Nacional Nº 237”, which will lead you to Bariloche.
- Long route: take “Ruta Nacional Nº 3” south. Rest in Azul for 15 minutes, follow south until Bahia Blanca, rest for some time. Follow south; take “Ruta Nacional Nº 22”, set the air conditioner on and turn on your CD player; don’t travel too slowly, or you might fall asleep! Rest in Choele Choel. Drive through lots of tiny cities and through Cipolletti – Neuquen, big cities which are connected by a bridge with an AR$0.65 toll. Follow through the million traffic lights until you exit the city. Approximately 32 km later, stop in Arroyito and sleep deeply. Continue driving South using “Ruta Nacional Nº 237”, which will lead you to Bariloche.
By bus
If you decide to travel by bus you can choose between different companies, such as "Via Bariloche", "El Crucero del Norte", "Andesmar", etc. The first 2 companies offer different services, where the main variable is comfort and price. You can take "supercama", which has wide and large seats. "Cama" has wide seats. "Semi-cama" has the normal distribution of 4 seats per row. From Buenos Aires, "supercama" and "cama" take as long as 19 hours (summer); "semi-cama" makes several stops and takes as long as 22 hours for AR$1,100 (summer). There are also direct buses to and from Chile (6 to 8 hours ride), going to Osorno or Puerto Montt.Different routes to get to Bariloche by bus from Buenos Aires are:
- Non-stop: “Ruta Nacional Nº 5” – “Ruta Provincial Nº 1” (la Pampa) – “Ruta Provincial Nº 18” (la Pampa) – “Ruta Nacional Nº 35” – “Ruta Nacional Nº 152” – “Ruta Provincial Nº 6” (Río Negro) - “Ruta Nacional Nº 22” – Neuquen – “Ruta Nacional Nº 22” - “Ruta Nacional Nº 237”
- Stopping: “Ruta Nacional Nº 3” - “Ruta Nacional Nº 22” – Neuquen - “Ruta Nacional Nº 22” - “Ruta Nacional Nº 237”
By boat
You can arrive or depart Bariloche by taking a series of ferries that wind through several lakes and connect by short bus rides from the Pacific at Puerto Montt, Chile. It's a one day trip unless you opt to stay overnight at Hotel Peulla near the pass.On foot
It is actually possible to hike from Cochamó, Chile, which is close to Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas, to Bariloche, passing by the famous and picturesque . There is a small police checkpoint at where you will receive a small note with which you have to head to the police station once you arrive in the next big city to complete your registration and entrance into the country.Get around
Confusingly, there is also another IC card in use in Bariloche, e.g. to go by bus to Dina Huapi northeast of Bariloche. This one is called Solución. However, you might find someone helpful on these buses to share his card with you if you give the related money in exchange.
See
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phone: +54 294 442-2309address: Centro Cívico s/n"Stuffed" native wildlife, pictures, and a great section covering the indigenous pre-Hispanic inhabitants of the region.
Huemul Project SiteIn the early 1950s, an Austrian scientist named Ronald Richter attempted to build the world's first fusion power plant on an island in a lake in the Andes, the undertaking being known as the Huemul Project. A couple of years and an equivalent of several hundred million US dollars later it came into light that Richter never had got any proof of his design actually functioning in the first place. As the patron of the project, President Juan Perón, was ousted in 1955, Richter was arrested for fraud. Today the ruins of the project can be visited on the island, and the city itself remains a center of Argentinian nuclear research.
Do
There are many trekking trails close to Bariloche. You can get more information on Trek Bariloche which provides a comprehensive guide to the trekking routes in the National Park.
Cerro CampanarioBeautiful view of the lakes and mountains around - hike it (30 min, departs near the bottom of the lift) or take the ski-lift (AR$40). Get in with bus #20, 21, 10 from the center and get off at km 17.8. After the Campanario you can go on with the Circuito Chico during the same day.
Los Arrayanes National ParkA forest of rare, orange-colored trees that only grow on a local island (and one in Japan) near Villa la Angostura. There are several cruise boats; the newest (luxurious) ship is called the "Cau Cau". Take the circuit bus out of Bariloche and catch a boat (near the Hotel Llao Llao) and have lunch, hike or bike, and enjoy the afternoon in the forest.
Camino de los Siete LagosAll-day tour by bus to see the seven picturesque lakes between Bariloche and San Martín de Los Andes, with lunch at SMdLA, followed by a return trip through the arid Pampas where you can see much of the local fauna along the way.
Sendero de los ArrayanesNice 3 km hike starting close to the Lao Lao golf course. Beautiful views to Lago Moreno.
Cerro CatedralIt has the biggest ski centre in South America, with a skiable area of 2 km² (0.77 sq mi), over 100 km (62 miles) of ski runs, and a lift capacity of 22,200 skiers per hour. It is located 19 km (12 miles) from Bariloche. If you enjoy hiking, there is trail to the Frey refugio which takes about 6½ hours (4 up, 2½ down). Look for the trailhead in the far corner of the parking lot.
Circuito ChicoThis beautiful 25-km route can be biked or hiked. You can also do it by bus during summer (line 10). If you hike it, take bus 20 towards Llao Llao till "El Muelle". See map above for track.
Cerro OttoViewpoint over the area of Bariloche. Transport there includes in the price of the cable car which cost AR$70 both ways (bus+cable car) or less one way while the other way you can hike or take a mountain bike(9 km from the city, about 2½ hours when hiking down). The rotating restaurant at the top has some impressive vistas of the region (average meal costs about AR$25) and there are some nice hiking trails behind the restaurant.
Cerro Frey trekConsidered by many as the best 1-3 days trekking in Bariloche. When it's cold enough you can skate in the lake near the refuge. When there's not too much snow you can climb the granite "agujas" (needles) near the refuge which have ways for all levels, or head to Lago Jakob. There are two ways to get in and out: the main one is from Villa Cathedral (only one bus every 1hr 30min), another (a bit longer) one starts from Los Cohiues and goes along the Gutierrez lake (bus #50).
Cerro LópezIn late spring/summer/early autumn there's a trekking trail to the mountain shelter (not as easy as Otto's). It takes about 3 hours to get there and can be quite tiring, but the views from the shelter are impressive. Be sure to bring along water and some fruit to keep your energy. Colonia Suiza, a Swiss-like borough, is nearby.
Cerro TronadorVisit the black glacier (ventisquero negro), see the Cerro Tronador and a waterfall over an overhanging cliff named Saltillo de las Nalcas, near the village of Pampa Linda. The busride takes about two hours, and costs AR$90 return or AR$45 one-way (Transitando, 20 de Febrero 300, Bariloche). There is an additional entrance fee to the national park of AR$50 (foreigners). With this bus, you have to hike the last 7 km to the glacier, which is a beautiful experience as there is a hiking trail and the road shows amazing landscape. Some tourist buses take you right to the sights. Near the lookout there is confiteria which sells overpriced food although location is remote and the place astonishing.
Isla Victoria
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phone: +54 0294 442-2266,+54 0294 442-4579address: San Martín y IndependenciaThe Club Andino is where you can get information on treks and activities around Bariloche and in the Nahuel Huapi National Park. They provide maps and descriptions of the trails.
Hiking with Local Mountain GuideGuided bilingual hikes with mountain guide Maxi Schoffel in Nahuel Huapi National Park.
If you're interested in going to the lakes and islands:
TurisurMitre 219 - Bariloche, - Boat excursions from Bariloche (Puerto Panuelo) to Bosque Arrayanes (about AR$160) & Puerto Blest, they also do the trip across to Chile (Cruce de Lagos) (about US$230).
Cruce de LagosAll-day cruise of Lake Nahuel Huapi and the National Park. Numerous stops allow you to wander in Andean rain forest, eat at the Hotel Puerto Blest and enjoy the stunning scenery from the turquoise waters of the lake. Buy the pass for a one hour cruise on Lago Frias which brings you near the snow covered volcano, Tronador. Lago Frias is milky jade green in color and the ride includes a short stop at the Chilean frontier. US$230 per person - also known as Cruce Andino.
Other activities include:
ParaglidingErnesto Gutierrez, 02944-462234 / 02944-15413037 offers 30-minute tandem flights for AR$250 and an additional AR$20-30 transportation cost, depending on the location (Cerro Otto or Cerro Cathedral).
- Rafting - Several agents offers rafting on the grade I Rio Limay or the grade III/IV Rio Manso. There are several outfitters that organize full day tours with lunch included.
- Kayak, Pura Vida - Half-day tours in the Gutierrez Lake.
- Horseriding - Horseriding tours to the Nahuel Huapi National Park from Bariloche in English and Spanish are provided by Carol Jones. Also try Tom Wesley Cabalgatas, their 3-hour lake ride is amazing.
- Historical Steam Train. A full-day journey into the steppe, riding a 1912 railway, which has been rebuilt keeping its original features.
Beyond:
Pampa Linda & Mount TronadorUp to 4 days of hiking with nice tails, and a hostel, to and from Bariloche. Consult with the local national park office.
Learn
- Brittania School of English and Spanish. Housed in a Swiss/Bavarian style store front, the school is part of Argentina's COINED Spanish school system.
- Patagonia School. Spanish Courses.
- La Montaña Spanish School. Spanish courses and more in Bariloche.
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Spanish in Bariloche (Spanish School)
phone: +54 294 4524212, +54 9 294 4318230 (WhatsApp)address: J.J. Paso 140Spanish Immersion Programs for all levels. Family-stays. After-school Cultural activities. Tailor-made Spanish programs for examinations and families.
Buy
- Chocolate, the city hosts an amazing number of shops where they produce and sell all sorts of varieties of chocolate. Local fruits and licor make some of the fillings. The most renowned ones are Mamuschka, , Benroth, Fenoglio, Rapa Nui, Del Turista, Bonifacio & Tante Frida.
Eat
El Boliche de AlbertoHas, according to some, the best meat in Argentina. There are two restaurants in town, and one located about 8 km out of town. Ask a taxi driver to take you there. Be aware that if you arrive after 20:00, you may have to wait in line for 30 min or more, especially if you are a party of 6 or more. El boliche de Alberto has a meat version of the restaurant which specialises in meats such as beef, chicken or pork etc. and there is a pasta version which serves a variety of different pastas.
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Parrilla El Refugio del montañes...de Julian
address: San Martín 590Also called "El Refugio Del Montañes", this family-owned restaurant has a homey atmosphere (especially compared to the tourist-trap feel of El Boliche de Alberto) that adds to the experience. The meat is very good, you don't have to wait 2 hr to enjoy it, and the location is conveniently on one of the main avenues in Bariloche. However serving sizes are quite small and pricey (AR$200 for a modest 2-person dinner with desert and no wine) Taberna Breogan CeltaThis local restaurant features the local smoked wild game. Especially recommended is the meat-n-cheese plate featuring venison, wild boar, salmon, and two kinds of cheese.
Casita SuizaOne of the best regional restaurants in Bariloche. You also can ask Swiss specialties like fondues, raclettes and pierrades.
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Cassis Restaurant
phone: +54 2944-476167 -
Friends
address: Bartolome MitreSpecial, great salads and sandwiches—especially good pasta. SesamoThis downtown restaurant serves amazing Middle Eastern food. The best ethnic food in town.
Morfy'sSmall sandwich shop that serves delicious food in massive portions. Offers many types of sandwiches and just about any type of topping for them that you can think of for low prices. The owner is very friendly and speaks Spanish, Hebrew, and a little English.
Drink
Choppin Tapas y FondueEclectic, semi-hippy, great music, with an incredible view of the hotel, golf course, and mountains in the backdrop. Excellent homebrew beer on tap.
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address: Ada M. Elflein 47Nice variety of food and great beer. The barley wine is especially potent. Two-for-one pints during happy hour, every day 18:00-20:00.
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The Map Room
phone: +54 2944 456-856address: Urquiza 248A bar. -
Wilkenny
address: San Martín 435Irish-themed bar popular with tourists. There are better choices. -
South Bar
address: JuramentoPopular local bar. -
Malabar
address: JuramentoPopular local bar.
Dance clubs
Teens from all over Argentina arrive on a school trip to Bariloche to celebrate their last year of high school with their classmates. That is why Bariloche features a lot of sophisticated dance clubs.BypassOffers a very elegant environment with lots of laser effects and nice music.
CerebroOne of the oldest dance clubs in Bariloche. It is quite nice and it offers laser effects but not as colorful as other dance clubs.
GrisuThis is a must-visit place. It has wood-like walls and it is designed in such a way that it is easy to get lost if you don't know your way around. It has a very quite place with a huge window showing the Nahuel Huapi lake. There are no laser effects but the bartenders are experts and it is worth watching them doing all sorts of tricks.
RocketFour floors dance club full of light, colors and sounds. Good laser show and nice atmosphere.
GenuxFuturist-looking disco. Open since 1993.
Sleep
Prices vary with the season, being the highest during ski season (July-August) and very high during summer (December-February). The accommodation is varied, from renting bungalows and cottages to five-star hotels with the best views.
Budget
Bariloches budget accommodation quickly gets fully booked, so make your reservations in advance, particularly during high season.-
phone: +54 294 452 4064address: Quaglia 726Just a Few blocks from the City Center. Big, spacious rooms, cozy common spaces for relaxing,watching TV or DVDs, listening to music or playing games. Free internet and breakfast, a well stocked kitchen, and very friendly owners. They can help you with any tourist info you need, and rent bikes. Minihostels.com members get 10% off.
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phone: +54 9 294 4467481, +54 9 294 430-8879address: Lihuel Calel 156, Villa Los CoihuesWell-priced for the experience. Located in a quiet area, you can easily travel in and out of town on Bus 50 while enjoying the true natural beauty of Patagonia. The campsite is located on a huge, lush yard complete with trees, large outside grills, a crystal clear Patagonian river available for kayaking, 24/7 hot water, Wi-Fi, clean bathrooms with showers, and kitchen use. The owning family, who also live on the property, address any touristic questions or concerns. Kayaks are also available for guests to use on the river passing through the yard or on the nearby Lake Guiterrez.
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phone: +54 294 4 442444address: Av. Bustillo 4200Costa Azul Apart offers 21 cozy apartments that feature standard amenities like cable TV and a private toilet and bath. Some of its amenities include Wi-Fi access, car rental and tour assistance, and room service.
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Aurora Hostel
address: O'Connor StNice, clean, it seems like home with a friendly family. Only AR$50 for a bed in a small 4-bed dorm. -
phone: +54 2644-522326address: Morales 555Named after the owner's dog.
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phone: +54 2944-432228address: San Martín 127, Edificio Bariloche Centre 10th floorOffers an amazing panoramic view. Excellent public areas, especially the kitchen. Free breakfast, Wi-Fi internet and has a computer for use but it is very busy and hard to get access to. Won't make reservations if you you are arriving after 14:00.
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phone: +54 2944 522464address: Belgrano 209Near the civic center. Clean, cozy hostel owned by an Argentine and a German.
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Hostel La Puerta Verde
phone: +54 2944-429051address: Quaglia 160 1º floor} -
phone: +54 2944-422539address: Mitre 1338You can feel at home with Tato and Sandra, who are building a big "quincho"/barbecue saloon.
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Lake View Bed & Breakfast
phone: +54 2944-1534-1876 (Mark)address: Pioneros kn 4.6 -
phone: +54 2944-400105address: Salta 422Modern, clean hostel. Free breakfast and dinner, fast internet, Wi-Fi. Lots of party folk. Good value.
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phone: +54 2944-400004address: Salta 514Modern, clean hostel. Free breakfast, fast internet, Wi-Fi. Very good free breakfast buffet for guests. Very quiet.
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phone: + 54-294-4433986, +54 2944-437026address: Ada María Elflein 396Free breakfast, internet. 6- and 8-bed dorms, one double room and two quad rooms.
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address: 94 Pasaje JuramentoCentral quiet location, Kiwi-owned and run, Lake view, comfortable chilled out living, Extensive music selection. Fun, young atmosphere. Many tour options to book right there for the same prices as in town. Book swap and wi-fi throughout. Homey feel.
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Nomad Backpackers
address: SaltaWhen all the other ones are fully booked, this one might be worth a try. -
phone: +54 294 452-2556address: Morales 564
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Hosteria Bello Horizonte
phone: +54 294 442-2621address: Salta 394 -
phone: +54 9 294 424-4442address: Mitre 1361Despite having all the charm, cosiness, cleanliness of the "Boutique Guesthouse" in its name, and with a homey feeling to top, the price could definitely put it in the Budget section if you are not looking for a dorm. The hosts Juan and Lucia are warm, friendly, welcoming and helpful. Good kitchen, Wi-Fi, free (homemade!) breakfast. The rooms are cozy, however you will not get views of the lake (except in the upstairs communal area) and the bathrooms are definitely small. Nevertheless, the place is perfect to have a relaxed stay away from the party crowds.
Mid-range
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Edelweiss Hotel
phone: +54 2944-445500,address: Av. San Martín 536 -
phone: +54 294 446 3000address: Av. Exequiel Bustillo 800
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phone: +54 11-4315-3305address: Av. Bustillo Km. 6.9
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La Farola - Lago Gutierrez
phone: +54 29449-551072 -
phone: +54 2944 426152address: Libertad 175The 3-star Hotel Tirol Bariloche is in the city´s heart, 100 meters from the main street and has spectacular views over Lake Nahuel Huapi. It has private parking inside the hotel and free Wi-Fi throughout the building.
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phone: +54 2944 430622address: Mitre 408Grand Hotel Bariloche is a 9-story hotel (3,000 m².) They offer 75 rooms organized in singles, doubles, triples and apartments.
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phone: +54 11 5032-5569address: Av. Bustillo 6700The hotel offers Super King beds, dry heat and steam saunas, Finnish bath, Scottish shower, fitness center, and a heated interconnecting indoor and outdoor pool.
Splurge
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phone: +54 2944 460-020address: Av. Antartida Argentina, s/n, Base Cerro CatedralGalileo Boutique Hotel is located along the base of Cerro Catedral in San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina. Major landmarks, such as the Nahuel Huapi Lake and the city’s Civic Center, are within proximate distance from the hotel. Feel as if you’re in the Swiss Alps when relaxing in Galileo Boutique Hotel’s luxurious Rooms, Suites, and Apartments, each adorned with quaint cypress wood frames and geometric roofs. They have great early bird discounts. In winter is right next to the slopes and in summer you can trek to Refugio Frey from the hotel´s parking lot.
Hotel Llao LlaoBeautiful alpine style hotel, built in 1939 (and renovated sincr), adds to the dramatic backdrop of the mountains. A classic resort: there's a golf course, boating, and much for the wealthy to see and do. Nightly rates were around USD300 in Dec 2004, so the AR$8 coffee might be the way to go in order to enjoy the view, the ambiance, etc, without paying an arm/leg to stay there overnight. Excellent service, slightly OTT decor. About 25 km from the city centre and about 35 km from Cerro Catedral.
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phone: +54 29444 57000address: Av. Exequiel Bustillo 2500 Km2.5Modern hotel (not all suites as the name might imply), with all the benefits (spacious rooms, free Wi-Fi, stunning panorama views, clever design touches) and drawbacks you expect from a boutique hotel. The suites themselves are not traditional suites, rather larger rooms with a couch and a balcony. 3 km from the city center.
Stay safe
Because of the high tourist presence, petty crime is a reality but there tend to be a large amount of police in force and the smaller and relatively affluent nature of the city makes crime less likely than in Buenos Aires. Still, exercise caution and keep valuables within sight. Never hike alone on the trails which touch the city, particularly up to Piedras Blancas. There have been many reported robberies of tourists on these paths.
If you decide to change money with the street changers, be very careful of fake notes, check every bill and count them properly.
Go next
- El Bolsón – A small hippie town (founded in the 1970s) in a mountainous valley about 120 km (75 mi) south of Bariloche. There's a twice weekly outdoor flea market (get there in the morning, it closes down around 15:00). Transportation on the El Valle bus line is AR$24 one way from Bariloche and is worth it for the scenery alone.
- Villa la Angostura – A small town about an hours drive from Bariloche, very picturesque, you can also hike a 12-km trail to the famous Bosque Arrayanes. Buses regularly go there from the bus terminal (1½ hrs, AR$52), and the journey along the lake is fantastic.
- Chile – It is actually possible to hike to Chile, namely Cochamó, which is close to Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas, passing by the famous and picturesque La Junta. There is a small police checkpoint at Paso El León where you will receive a small note with which you have to head to the police station once you arrive in the next big city to complete your registration and entrance into the country.