San Cristóbal de las Casas
Understand
For many visitors, San Cristóbal is associated with the Zapatista uprising and its charismatic leader Subcomandante Marcos, who suddenly seized control of the city center in January 1994 demanding justice and equal rights for the state's large and neglected indigenous population. Although the Zapatistas managed to achieve some of their aims, most of their goals have not yet been met, and the movement continues to simmer.
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State Tourist Office
phone: +52 967 678 1467address: Palacio MunicipalHas free city maps, lists of hotels, and bus schedules. Most staff speak some English.
Climate
Because of its high altitude (2,200m), San Cristóbal has a more temperate climate and it is easy to forget that one is actually in the tropics. In the summer high temperatures tend to be around 25°C with lows averaging about 10-11°C, while in winter temperatures can range from 4°-20°, with lows occasionally dropping below 0°C. As in most of Mexico, most buildings do not have central heating, so visitors in winter will want to have warm clothing.Read
Michael Spurgeon, Let the Water Hold Me Down. A fictionalized account of the Zapatista uprising, told from the standpoint of an American resident who found himself caught unawares in events leading up to the 1994 uprising.Get in
By plane
The closest airport to San Cristóbal is in Tuxtla Gutierrez, a drive of about one hour 15 minutes. The fare for a taxi is M$600 per taxi to San Cristóbal and M$200 to Tuxtla, or a shuttle service offering door-to-door service for M$170 to/from San Cristóbal.By bus
The express bus system for getting around Mexico is advanced. The buses are generally comfortable and clean and there are multiple lines to choose from in a user-friendly way with professional and helpful ticket clerks at most main stations. The roads to San Cristóbal are winding and can be dizzying so some choose the option to take a bus and let a professional driver do the work. You can see the beautiful greenery of Chiapas all around you on the trip through the big bus windows, or pull the curtain to nap. The bus and colectivo companies have their own stands and stations clustered around Av Insurgente and Carretera de las Americas (Hwy 190) in Barrio San Diego (SE part of town).-
phone: +52 55 5784-4456address: Avenida Insurgentes s/nThis terminal serves OCC a subsidiary of Grupo ADO, with direct connections to Oaxaca, Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Palenque, Campeche, Merida, Mexico City, Villahermosa and other Mexican cities. Connections to the Guatemalan border at Cd Cuauhtémoc/La Mesilla. Some 2nd-class buses also stop here. Tickets can be purchased online or directly at the station.
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phone: +52 967 678-6178address: Av. Insurgentes y Blvd Juan Sabines S/NDirect connections to Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Palenque and other places in Chiapas state.
By colectivo and ómnibus
There are many other public transportation modes from Tuxtla to San Cristóbal: taxi, colectivo, autobus, and collective suburbans. The taxi drivers all know where these are located. Local travel agents in Antigua Guatemala and San Cristobal de las Casas sell tickets for direct colectivos between Antigua, Panajachel and San Cristobal las Casas.(on the Pan-American Highway, 24hrs) to/from Tuxtla Gutierrez, Ocosingo, Comitán, and Palenque all operate from depots located just south of the bus station.
From Tuxtla one can take an Ómnibus de Chiapas that leaves every 20 minutes to San Cristóbal for about $40 MXN.
Get around
By taxi
Taxis are all over the place (a little too many of them, honestly) and easy to flag down. Rates are negotiable, and are generally M$30-40; after 22:00 fares go up by M$5. Ask the price before getting in to make sure that you get the going rate.Note: Because of a number of assaults by drivers, solo women are strongly advised to avoid hailing taxis on the street after dark. It is best to call for one or have one called for you.
By colectivo
The main form of public transportation for locals come in the form of a van or minibus. Colectivos run fixed routes, with destinations painted on the windshield. Passengers can be picked up or dropped of any point along the route for a fare of M$6. Be prepared for a cramped ride and frequent stops but hey, that's just part of the fun.See
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Templo de Santo Domingo Guzmán
address: 20 de Noviembre s/nBuilt in the mid-16th century, this is the most notable of San Cristóbal's many churches. The Baroque façade is a mix of Oaxacan and Guatemalan styles, and the ornate interior is richly gilded. The interior is especially beautiful in the evening with candlelight. -
phone: +52 967 678 2809address: 20 de Noviembre s/nHoused in the former convent, this museum displays artifacts illustrating the history of Chiapas and the region. On the first floor is the Centro de Textiles del Mundo Maya, also known as the Francesco Pellizzi Collection, a remarkable collection of historic and contemporary Mayan textiles from Chiapas and Guatemala.
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Museo de la Medicina Maya
phone: +52 967 678 5438address: Calz Salomón González Blanco 10Not to be missed, this museum is operated by a collective of indigenous healers and herbalists. Information is available in English and Spanish and there are also healers on site to treat whatever ailment you may suffer. -
phone: +52 967 678 1418address: Av Vicente Guerrero 33The former home of Swiss anthropologist/photographer Gertrudis Duby Blom, the wife of Danish archeologist Frans Blom, continues to be an inn and museum managed by her supporters and associates. The museum also includes an extensive library of research on the Maya.
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phone: +52 967 678 9716address: Diego de Mazariegos s/nHoused in a former convent, this small museum displays more than 300 specimens of amber, and also offers some beautiful pieces for sale. This is a good place to visit if you intend to purchase amber in Chiapas, as staff can explain how to identify real vs. fake amber: real amber is always warm to the touch, and emits a faint resin smell when rubbed.
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phone: +52 967 678 1121address: Ave 16 de Septiembre 16This small museum displays ancient jade artifacts and jewelry, and sells high-quality contemporary pieces.
Templo de GuadalupeSituated up a long flight of stairs on a hill to the west of town, this church itself is not especially noteworthy but does offer good views of the town. This area is not safe after dark, and even during the day solo women may be harassed.
Templo de San CristóbalLocated on a hill to the east of town, this church offers good views of the town below. This area is also not safe after dark.
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phone: +52 967 678 5727address: Periférico Norte 4Established in 1994, this garden grows orchids and other plants rescued from nearby areas undergoing deforestation, and is dedicated to preserving and displaying all varieties of orchids native to the state of Chiapas. Nearby, on property owned by the gardens, is the unexcavated Mayan site of Moxviquil. All that remains of the structures are the foundations, which can be reached via a short hiking trail beginning from the garden area. The gardens are best visited in the spring beginning in April, when most of the orchids are in bloom.
- There is a drum and brass band and singers who perform patriotic melodies at 08:00 Mondays at the main square. Musicians may be found at the square evenings as well.
- Constant cultural activities around the Centro.
Do
Work
- Nataté works on sustainable projects in San Cristóbal and within the state of Chiapas. Nataté works in different fields: education, water and waste management (dry toilets, water filtering), reforestation, construction. Short and long term projects are available.
- FrayBa sends Human Rights Observers in Zapatista communities.
People should be aware of cultural issues in this region. While San Cristóbal has done a great job of cleaning up, there is real destitute poverty just around the corner if you scratch the surface. The native people suffer a lot so please respect them and treat them with kindness when you come into contact. Also, the Zapatista communities are sick and tired of the "hand out" mentality of a lot of NGOs. If you want to do something with the Zapatistas, do it on their terms. Ask questions, do not tell anything. They have a lot more to teach you than you do them.
Learn
Language schools
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Spanish Immersion School La Casa en el Árbol
phone: +52 967 674 5272 (office), +52 967 125 9490 (mobile)address: Francisco I Madero 29An enthusiastic and socially committed language school. La Casa en el Árbol offers intense Spanish Immersion Programs, courses in the Mayan languages Tsotsil and Tseltal, and volunteering programs. -
phone: +52 967 678 8630address: Av RemesalSCLS is part of one of the premier Spanish language networks in Mexico (the Teach Me Mexico Network). It is in a historic casona in the heart of downtown San Cristóbal, and is the only school in town in which all Spanish teachers have college degrees.
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phone: +52 967 678 4069address: Francisco I Madero 45One of the oldest and most respected schools for learning Spanish as a second language. It is the only Spanish school established in its own beautiful building. Instituto Jovel is the only school which offers credits to college and university students.
Buy
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Handicrafts market
address: 20 de Noviembre s/nOne of the best places to buy souvenirs and textiles. -
phone: +52 967 678 7178address: Calz Lázaro Cárdenas 42A textile cooperative with authentic goods from the surrounding villages. The prices are a good deal more expensive, but you'll be getting the real handmade goods.
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Talabartería Ballinas
phone: +52 967 678 9542address: Av Presidente Portes Gil 8ATo get your quality leather products (bags, purses, rucksacks, belts) custom made, Vicente Hernández will exercise his excellent handicraft skills for you. -
Mercado de Dulces y Artesanías
address: Av InsurgentesTraders sell a good range of local handcrafts here, but are less willing to bargain. -
phone: +52 967 674 6766address: Real de Guadalupe 24A complex which sells handicrafts, t-shirts, posters, etc. in a cooperative which helps the autonomous communities of the Zapatista movement. The restaurant is very popular with tourists and NGO employees.
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Mercado José Castillo Tielemans
address: General UtrillaThe daily market, which people from nearby villages visit to purchase and sell everything from herbs, live chickens, dried fish, housewares, and clothing. -
phone: +52 967 631 6720address: Av Cristóbal Colón 2Carries a decent selection of mostly used books in English, and a number of books in Spanish, German, and French.
Grocery stores
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Supermas
phone: +52 967 631 6406address: Real de Guadalupe 22Carries the essentials including some produce, and has an onsite bakery. -
Chedraui
phone: +52 967 631 5060address: Diagonal Hermanos Paniagua 50This branch of the Mexican hypermarket chain carries everything you might need, and has an onsite bakery and pharmacy. A taxi sitio is conveniently located outside the main entrance.
Eat
Go to the main public market and eat tamales for breakfast. Another local specialty is sopa de pan which you will probably not find in any restaurant catering to tourists. You will find it in the comedors in the market. That is the best food in town.
On Saturdays many houses sell tamales out their front door. Look for the red lights. On any given evening there are places where people make antojitos on the street in front of their houses. This is real local food.
At certain times of the year different exotic insects are consumed in different ways. Pay attention in the market and you might have the chance to try something really exotic.
A lunch time bargain is in the different cantinas. These are family places: order a beer and you will get a little plate of food to go with it - house choice. It's cheap and excellent, though, you might get drunk in the process.
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phone: +52 967 631 4621address: Cristóbal Colón 3Mexican, Asian, pasta, vegetarian, smoothies, juices, sandwiches, burritos, all very good. Free Wi-Fi. They frequently have free bands that play here in the evenings. Prices are very reasonable, but diners should take care to inspect the bill and change, as mistakes are frequent and nearly always in the restaurant's favor.
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phone: +52 967 678 2244address: Real de Guadalupe 26Coffee, bagels, etc., in a nice small corner bar.
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Perfidia
address: María Adelina Flores 23Perfidia has bocadillos to share, from empanadas and enmoladas, to the famous hamburgers and salads with locally made jamón serrano and regional cheeses. -
Naturalissimo
address: 20 de Noviembre 4Vegetarian restaurant, one of many. -
phone: +52 967 631 6535address: Insurgentes 5AEnjoy some hearty traditional Mexican soups. The menu also includes salads and few other snacks.
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phone: +52 967 678 6486address: Francisco I Madero 24BSome friendly and attentive wait staff, serving Mexican tacos and quesadillas. Lacking any chicken tacos but other than that everything is great. Very clean places and quick service.
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El Mesón del Taco
phone: +52 967 678 0702address: Crescencio Rosas 26Tacos al pastor, quesadillas and other Mexican food. -
Quesadillas de Lupita
address: Av Hermanos DomínguezDifferent food every day, made with a lot of love. -
El Molcajete
address: Miguel Hidalgo 6BKnown for its delicious pozole, a traditional Mexican meal. Reasonably priced and filling. -
Café Las Nubes
phone: +52 967 116 0308address: C Niños Héroes 2aFamous for its dimly lit ambiance creating a nice mellow mood, also a place where Gourmet Coffee is done right and always 2x1 for any drink on the menu all day long also offering breakfasts, lunch and dinner. -
El Alebrije
address: Calle El CamineroA local favorite located near all the hustle and bustle of the market, offering inexpensive Mexican meals that taste great. Main courses of menu usually changes daily. La Casa del PanTwo Locations both with restaurant and bakery. Known for its quality baked goods as well as the organic products used in the restaurant and sold in the store. A nice selection for vegetarian and more health conscious visitors.
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La Casa del Pan
phone: +52 967 678 5895address: Dr Navarro 10The original La Casa del Pan, known for the fountain in front providing a perfect outdoor sitting area. -
La Casa del Pan
phone: +52 967 678 7215address: Real de Guadalupe 55In a building offering a cinema, bar, language school, yoga and few more activities.
Drink
Cafés and chocolaterias
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Café Toyol Witz
phone: +52 967 631 7403address: C Comitán 10BFor a Fair Trade, shade grown cup of coffee that is beat by no other check out this local cafe that doubles as the first floor of the owner's home. Slightly off the beaten path to the city center, you'll find the cafe keeper to be more than willing to help answer any questions you may have about the coffee or neighborhood. -
phone: +52 967 631 4751address: Pedro Moreno 2AGreat chocolate to drink, eat or take out. Free Wi-Fi.
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Yik Café
phone: +52 967 674 5783address: Plaza 31 de Marzo 12A good place to relax with a cup of hot chocolate or coffee and watch the activity in the square. The café also serves good breakfasts and lunches. -
Café Museo Café
address: Maria Adelina Flores 10This combined café and museum is run by a collective of 17,000 indigenous coffee growers from Chiapas. The displays illustrate the history of coffee cultivation in the state. Far better than the displays however is the organic coffee they serve – especially worth sampling is the café de chiapaneca, a local variant of the traditional spiced Mexican café de olla.
Bars
Nightly there are many bars with music on the same street, including Café Bar Revolución (aka El Revo, tel. +52 967 678 6664). Most of the music is performed by local musicians in the clubs and restaurants; this includes the (in the Santa Clara Hotel on the SE corner of the Zócalo, tel. +52 967 674 5294), with nightly music.-
phone: +52 967 678 0822address: Real de Guadalupe 53Micro brewery and live music every night.
PerfidiaMaría Adelina Flores and Cristóbal Colón, 3 blocks east from the cathedral. A good space to relax and listen to great music, get the party started with a few tequilas, mojitos, or other cocktails, or visit a local art exhibition with a diverse mix of people who live in San Cristóbal. It's the best spot for tourists to really interact with locals and the many people from all over the world who have come to San Cristóbal and decided to stay. The bar occupies a beautiful old house, which is registered as a historical landmark, with three different rooms, each with a different feel and decorated with elaborate stencils by a local artist, and a garden patio (which is beautiful at night). Perfidia has many great specials, including pitchers of Mexican beer for M$50 and 2-for-1 drink specials until 9 o'clock, way past normal happy hour, free live music and exhibitions, and very cheap, gourmet Mexican bocadillos (snacks). In April 2008, Perfidia will start salsa lessons with a very popular teacher (from when the space used to be called La Pera). And on May 31, 2008, Perfidia will feature the gallery opening "Intercambio Frontal: Tijuas-San Cris," a dialogue through installation art, photography, painting, and stencil between the Tijuana artist Alejandro Zacarías and San Cristóbal artist Luther Blissett.
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La Viña de Bacco
phone: +52 967 119 1985address: Real de Guadalupe 7A wine bar with a good selection of wines and beer, including many from Mexico. Free tapas are served with each glass.
Sleep
Budget
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phone: +52 967 631 6911address: Calzada Ojo de Agua 23
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phone: +52 967 674 5080address: Cerrada Brasil 6BJapanese house. Central area with two couches and kitchen. Wi-fI internet. Recommended forJapanese.
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Casa Revolución
phone: +52 967 130 9121address: Av Presidente Miguel Alemán 21This long-stay accommodation offers single room with private bathroom, TV, shared kitchen and wi-fi; doubles available. Balcony with a lovely view over the city to the mountains. Close to the city market for cheap food. -
La Catrina Posada Bed & Breakfast
address: Francisco I Madero 35A backpacker hostel run by a Spanish-speaking Tzeltal family. Also has an onsite bar/café. -
phone: +52 967 112 5097address: Calle Ejército Nacional 40A cozy hostel run by a young couple. The hostel has a very friendly environment and homey feel to it. It is comfortable, clean, and the owners can recommend great places to eat, drink, and visit during your stay. Casa Gaia is complete with comfy communal areas such a living room with fireplace, cable TV, play station, books and movies, other communal areas include a fully equipped kitchen, outdoor garden/patio area, great for cookouts, yoga, hanging with fellow travelers, etc. They offer both private rooms and shared dorms. Other services include hot water 24 hrs, internet and WIFI.
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Hostal Ek Balam
phone: +52 967 120 3141address: Calle Real de Guadalupe 88Located in one of main city corridors, close to Parque Central, this hostel offers a quiet space with TV, wi-fi, two computers, hot water, kitchen, free purified water, lockers and a security box for important documents. Can be loud in the rooms near the common area at night. -
phone: +52 967 678 0594address: Calle Tonala 5Has a nice sun terrace with good views over the hills surrounding San Cristobal, free breakfast and wi-fi, organises tours, very close to the main market, very clean. Staff is very stiff about rules which might destroy the comfortable feeling. Try to book in advance in high season as it gets very busy.
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Hotel-Hostal El Rincón de los Camellos
phone: +52 967 116 0097address: Calle Real de Guadalupe 110Has hot water 24 hours, free wi-fi, luggage storage, and kitchen access. -
Hotel Posada El Molino
phone: +52 967 678 0210address: Calle Ejército Nacional 30Has hot water, private baths, TV, and laundry facilities. -
phone: +52 967 631 6012address: Francisco I Madero 82This bed and breakfast is close to the pedestrian boulevard of Real de Guadalupe. Rooms and facilities are very clean, hot water takes a few minutes for showers. The staff are very nice. The staff clean the floors frequently throughout the day so may not be good for those with chemical sensitivities. Private rooms up to 4, and private baths available. Free wi-fi, parking, breakfast included.
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phone: +52 967 678 1741address: Calle Tapachula 18One of the pioneering hostels of San Cristóbal back in the early 1980s, located in a magnificent colonial house. Prices include a large breakfast.
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phone: +52 967 674 0377address: Calle Ejército Nacional 14
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phone: +52 967 674 0525address: Calle Real de Mexicanos 16Has free wi-fi, parking, laundry, and free luggage storage.
Mid-range
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phone: +52 967 678 1363address: Av Insurgentes 33Pleasant rooms, a beautiful garden. Has free wi-fi, free private parking, and a full-service restaurant.
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Hotel Posada Belen
phone: +52 967 678 7486address: Plazuela de los Mexicanos 2This charming mid-sized inn has spacious, carpeted rooms with wi-fi, TV, private bathrooms decorated with colonial-style tile and hot water.
Splurge
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phone: +52 967 678 0045address: Calle 1 de Marzo 15
Stay healthy
Should you simply have nausea, consider buying some Bonadoxina at the local pharmacy. As always, check with the pharmacist regarding your specific symptoms and potential allergic reactions.
Go next
Tuxtla Gutierrez airport
The standard rate for a taxi to the airport from San Cristóbal to Ángel Albino Corzo International Airport (TGZ) is around M$500. Most tour agencies in town also operate shuttle services to the airport for about M$200, generally one or two a day, and will pick you up at your place of stay.Mayan villages in the surrounding mountains
A good guide, should you choose one, will help to give you a deeper understanding of modern Maya life and some of the unusual customs you may observe. Guides can be picked up daily at 09:30 in the main plaza by the cathedral. Tours generally return around 14:30 (lunch time in Mexico).
Note: There are no colectivos connecting Chamula direcly with Zinacantán; if you want to visit both on the same day you will need to return to San Cristóbal after visiting each village before proceeding onward or take a pricey cab from one to the other. Also, visitors should not photograph any villagers without permission – failure to follow this rule can result in physical assault and/or loss of your camera.
- The Tzotzil village of San Juan Chamula is primarily known for its distinctive church as well as its colorful Sunday market. From San Cristóbal, frequently departing cost M$15 and take about 20 minutes, dropping off passengers a block away from the Chamula's main plaza.
- San Lorenzo Zinacantán, also a Tzotzil community, is most well-known for its and Sunday . Men wear distinctive embroidered pink or purple tunics, while women wear richly embroidered purple shawls and skirts. No photographs at all of the interior or exterior of church are permitted. Theoretically all visitors should pay an admission fee at a booth by the main church, but this is not always staffed. (across the street from the main market) cost M$12 and take about 20 minutes.
El Arcotete
The Arcotete is one of San Cristóbal's best kept secrets. Similar to Rancho Nuevo but much nicer and closer to San Cristóbal, located about 5-10km from the city in the direction of Tenejapa (signs are well placed to find El Arcotete). M$10 per vehicle. Recently remodeled into a park offering nice walking grounds surrounded by Pine trees, picnic areas, and nice look out vantage points. A great day to spend a couple of hours or the whole day enjoying a picnic or a pickup soccer game. It costs M$5 to enter the part of (Las Grutas) The Caves. El Arcotete will provide a wonderful experience enjoying nature's work at best. Check it out for yourself.Further afield
- Cañón del Sumidero - This is a worthwhile half day trip from San Cristóbal. Boat trips leave regularly and take approximately two hours to head 34km up river to the Chicoasén Dam, and return. Along the way you pass by thousand metre high cliffs, wildlife including birds and crocodiles up to 4m long, cacti growing om the canyon walls, a shrine in the Cave of the Colours, and the surreal El Árbol de Navidad or the Christmas Tree Waterfall. On the way back stop in Chiapa de Corzo to explore the lively square, colourful church, and intricate sixteenth century fountain.
- El Chiflón and Parque Nacional Lagos de Montebello - There are daily tours from San Cristóbal to these two natural wonders, though it is a long near twelve hour day of travel, with approximately 7 hours in a bus for 5 hours of sightseeing. El Chiflón is home to a spectacular series of cascades and waterfalls, the highest falling 120m. On a sunny day the water is turquoise and it is possible to swim in the pools during the dry season. A path follows the river upstream, and is increasingly steep, but offers wonderful views. Parque Nacional Lagos de Montebello is home to a number of beautiful lakes in varying shades of green and blue. A typical tour will stop at Laguna Tziscao, Laguna Bosque Azul, Laguna La Cañada, and Lago Montebello, with photo opportunities, and at a couple of them the chance to hire a wooden raft for a circuit of the lake.
- Laguna Miramar - Visit one of the most beautiful lakes in the Lacantun Jungle in the south of Chiapas. Visiting Laguna Miramar requires planning and organization. It is inside Zapatista territory. Do not attempt to go there without a guide. Do bring everything you will need, there is nothing to buy there.
- El chorreadero- Nice waterfalls with small natural pools where people can take a swim. You can check out the cave where the waterfall is born and then follow your way down. In the very last pool people can practice naturism.
- Oventik - From San Cris market you can take a van that leads to Oventik. This is a caracol or independent zapatista community. Bring your passport or official documents. People at the entrance will ask you questions to evaluate if you would be allowed inside the place. Very nice murals. Close to the town of san Andres which is also worth a visit.
- Oaxaca - Many backpackers head to Oaxaca City, and then hop on the increasingly popular Pacific Coast Backpacker Trail to Puerto Escondido, Mazunte, Zipolite, and Huatulco.
Guatemala Many private shuttles to Guatemala leave early in the morning by the Zocalo. From there it is about 6 hours to cross the border.