San Francisco/Bernal Heights
Bernal Heights, just south of the Mission District of San Francisco, is a cute, eclectic neighborhood that was once very working class, but is becoming quickly gentrified. Sister to the Castro, this neighborhood is very popular with the lesbian community. The main commercial drag of the neighborhood is located along Cortland Avenue.
Get in
The MUNI Metro -Church line runs along the western boundary of the area from downtown. From the J line you can just walk into the area or easily transfer to one of the following MUNI bus lines:
- 24-Divisadero from the Church and 30th Metro station. From the station, you can take the #24 east down 30th Street and Cortland Avenue through Bernal Heights before continuing onto Bayview-Hunters Point.
- 23-Monterey from the Glen Park station. From the station, the #23 heads up Bosworth and Mission Streets before turning right onto Crescent Avenue, running along the southern end of the district and into Bayview-Hunters Point.
Other bus routes which serve the area include the 14-Mission and the 49-Mission/Van Ness, which run right down Mission Street from the north and south, and the 67-Bernal Heights, which runs through much of Bernal Heights from the 24th Street BART station.
See
Bernal HillThe top is more than 40 acres of grassy open space, with views of the San Francisco Bay and Mt. Diablo to the east, downtown San Francisco, the Bay Bridge, Twin Peaks and Noe Valley to the west and a rise of hills leading up to San Bruno Mountain in the south. People come and run their dogs here and watch eclipses, sunrises, sunsets, the Blue Angels and wildlife. There's been a celebrated coyote since 2003; recent sightings confirm it's still there. There are nooks and crannies and stairs and weeds and it's a big, big, well-loved back yard.
Bernal Heights neighborhoodTake a wander around losing yourself amongst the pretty houses and the charm, it's a fine way to spend an afternoon.
Do
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phone: +1-415-643-9007address: 908 Cortland AveIf what you want in a yoga studio is a lot of hot, tight young bodies bending away in spandex, well, Bernal Yoga has that. But it's also got a lot of older practitioners, less fit practitioners, moms-to-be and moms-returning-to-shape, and a set of instructors that really know the meaning of "all levels classes." The soulful, welcoming, peaceful community is run by sister-and-brother team Savonn and Bill Wyland, who keep things varied with frequent guest instructors and quarterly literary events, which attract nationally-known poets and fiction writers.
Buy
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phone: +1-415-647-9423address: 100 Alemany BlvdForget the farmers market at the Ferry Building, unless you just can't live without the high prices and the most fashionable vegetables. San Francisco's original 1943 farmer's market is where it's at. It was founded by the Victory Garden Council as a WWII ag-surplus depot! Rock-bottom cheap, we-picked-it-at-3AM fresh, it's where elderly Asian ladies swarm piles of fresh peanuts and carefully pick out the live chicken to bring home. It has flowers at unbelievable prices and a really stellar selection of basic fruits, nuts, tubers and vegetables, and exotic Asian produce. There aren't that many organic farmers, but there are some. Get there early for salad greens and Euro-American vegetables, as these go fast. The fish market is mixed but sometimes has good local catches.
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Good Life Grocery
phone: +1-415-648-3221address: 448 Cortland AvePeople tend to have a love-hate relationship with this grocery store on the busy Cortland/Andover corner. On one hand, it's a fine, manageably-sized market with all the quality brands of pasta, meat, dairy, condiments, juices, vegetarian staples, etc. that you would hope for in a neighborhood with a significant upscale, foodie population. On the other hand, the prices are high, and it would be really nice to be able to purchase a razor blade or non-natural hair conditioner. Great wine selection and recommendations, though.
Eat
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phone: +1-415-896-4250address: 3149 Mission StSlightly overpriced gourmet BBQ with hot waitresses.
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phone: +1-415-282-6777address: 3218 Mission StExpensive but wonderful "New American" cuisine with impressive artwork on the walls, and racy photography in the bathrooms. The macaroni and cheese is a must.
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phone: +1-415-206-2086address: 18 Virginia AveA fun, casual restaurant for hipsters. Do not expect fine dining or "authenticity" - just good spaghetti and big meatballs (the Caesar salad is delish, too). Beware the dangerous dive bar next door.
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address: 65a 29th StWell prepared southern food. Fried chicken and fried okra are favorites.
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Good Frikin' Chicken
phone: +1-415-695-7800address: 10 29th StExcellent middle-eastern chicken. Specializes in rotisserie and grilled whole chicken. Often runs out of rotisserie before 8PM -
phone: +1-415-642-7585address: 745 Cortland AveHands down, the strongest coffee on the strip. Martha & Bros. is part of a six-shop San Francisco chain. The smiling, mostly Hispanic female staff, crack-of-dawn hours (it opens at 5:30AM), big pastries and reasonable prices make the place a favorite of newspaper readers, working men and the California Highway Patrol.
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phone: +1-415-648-2300address: 688 San Jose AveMitchell's has been serving the best ice cream and sorbets in SF since 1953. Choose from traditional fare or exotic flavors such as avocado, buko (baby coconut), guava, langka (jackfruit), macapuno (sweet coconut), mango, pineapple and ube (purple yam).
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phone: +1-415-970-9336address: 615 Cortland AveThis peach-walled fish chop shop serves fun maki rolls, including a variety with tempura'd ingredients. Its also got killer barbeque spare ribs with wasabi mashed potatoes and steamed greens on its small-plates menu. A good time, often packed, so get there early.
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Moonlight Cafe
phone: +1-415-647-6448address: 634 Cortland AveA creperie with some great taste sensations. If you're hungry, the Mediterranean platter will fill you up. The toasted bagels with cream cheese, sun-dried tomato and cucumber are perfect, as is the lavender or ginger lemonade. -
phone: +1-415-282-6233address: 400 Cortland AveA perfect Bernal Heights cafe. Serves up some great coffee drinks and a good selection of salads and lavash wrapped sandwiches. The hummus will make anyone think twice about buying hummus from a grocery store again. Great service. A great place for all types and ages. Kids have their fun with Enzo and his assorted instruments every Sunday. PG also has a nice garden space in the back.
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Taqueria Can-cun (not to be confused with Cancun)
phone: +1-415-550-1414address: 3211 Mission StSimply the best taqueria in San Francisco, especially if you've had a few drinks at the Knockout or Argus Lounge. The Quesadilla Suiza with some horchata to sip on is just killer. -
phone: +1-415-821-3949address: 3489 Mission StIndian pizza! Need we say more?
Drink
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phone: +1-415-550-6994address: 3223 Mission StA quirky hipster bar with old arcade games and on some nights, live bands of varying talent.
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address: 80 29th StNeighborhood bar with strong, affordable, and creative cocktails. Owned by the same people as the Front Porch, across the street.
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phone: +1-415-550-8667address: 3202 Mission StA new cocktail bar serving outstanding Manhattans and other more unusual concoctions in a setting that feels like an old hunting lodge. A must if you like sipping bourbon and other aperitifs to old-timey music.
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phone: +1-415-282-3456address: 453 Cortland AveLive blues music spills from this dive located in the heart of Bernal Heights. Good for a game of pool or darts. The bright lights destroy any potential ambiance.
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phone: +1-415-647-1268address: 629 Cortland AveA great little wine bar with emphasis on Italian varieties.
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Wild Side West
phone: +1-415-647-3099address: 424 Cortland AveAlthough it's a lesbian bar, this neighborhood watering hole welcomes all. Inexpensive beer flows from the taps. In the winter time, a fire burns in the main room, which includes a small pool table. But the most interesting aspect to this bar is the outside garden in the back, best enjoyed on warmer days and nights. The garden is heavily decorated with sculptures and lights. Find a nook to cuddle up with a loved one while sipping a drink.
Connect
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San Francisco Public Library - Bernal Heights Branch
phone: +1-415-355-2810address: 500 Cortland Ave