San Francisco/Haight
The Haight (pronounced like "hate") is a district of San Francisco running along Haight Street and the famous center of San Francisco's hippie community, with a multitude of eclectic stores, coffee shops, and art that reflects this fact. The district is bounded roughly by the Panhandle and Fell/Oak Streets on the north, Market Street on the east, Duboce Avenue and Buena Vista Park on the south, and Stanyan Street (and Golden Gate Park) on the west, with a small extension west to include the University of California, San Francisco Parnassus campus just to the west.
Understand
The Haight is made up of two neighborhoods: Haight-Fillmore, usually called the Lower Haight, and Haight-Ashbury, also known as the Upper Haight. The two neighborhoods are separated by a large hill and are bisected by Divisadero Street. The neighborhoods have somewhat separate histories. The Haight-Ashbury gained international fame in the 1960s as young white Hippies moved into the area and made contact with poor, young black residents in the neighborhood and surrounding areas like the Lower Haight and the Western Addition. Together, these outcasts forged the counter-culture movement for which the Haight is most well known.
Today, both the Upper and Lower Haight are residential neighborhoods served by businesses and transport along Haight Street. However, the Upper Haight is the busier tourist destination, because of the stronger identification with the Hippie era. Into the 1990s, the Lower Haight had lower rents and a larger African-American community, but that difference has eroded with the rise of rents in both areas and the steady dwindling of San Francisco's black population. The most obvious difference to a visitor today is that the Upper Haight has many more head shops and stores catering to Hippie-nostalgia foot traffic.
In the 1960s large portions of the predominantly African American Fillmore District were involuntarily relocated to the Haight-Ashbury due to the disruptive urban renewal movements of the time. At the same time, middle class whites began moving to the growing suburbs of the Bay Area, causing home values in the area to plunge. The neighborhood, with its then-surplus of affordable Victorian homes, was ripe for housing an influx of African American families as well as Beats attracted by the growing intellectual, anti-establishment community surrounding the local universities, as well as an emerging (pre-Castro District) gay and lesbian community.
With the onset of the Vietnam War, many white middle class college kids derailed by the draft now began to move into the Haight, identifying with the counterculture trends already taking place in the neighborhood and adopting Hippie ideologies and alternative lifestyles. Many thrived while other lives were ruined by destructive drugs such as speed, heroin and cocaine, and some remain committed to the Hippie dream to this day. While gentrification has turned the Upper Haight into something of a counterculture theme park (although it is also home to many young, homeless drug addicts, though no longer of the peaceful, Hippie variety), there are still plenty of eclectic finds to uncover here and one can still can get a sense of the once-bohemian nature of this area.
Get in
By car
Fell and Oak Streets, parallel one-way streets running east-west across the northern edge of the district, offer a relatively easy way to get into the district via car from Downtown to the east. A few major north-south streets which pass through Haight are Fillmore Street, Divisadero Street (which merges into Castro Street to the south) and Masonic Avenue. Parking in the area can be very limited, however, and it's far preferable to use alternate transportation for the Upper Haight area.By public transit
MUNI operates the 7-Haight/Noriega bus route (plus the 6-Haight/Parnassus east of Masonic) running the length of Haight Street, connecting the area to Downtown. Nearby streets parallel to Haight also serve the area, for example the 5-Fulton and 21-Hayes north of the Haight district. Additionally, a few lines run north-south through the district: 22-Fillmore, 24-Divisadero, 33-Ashbury/18th and 43-Masonic.
The -Judah Muni Metro line (partially underground) also runs parallel to Haight Street several blocks to the south. An easy way to access the western portion of the Haight district (near Cole Valley) from Downtown is to take the N-Judah outbound to Cole Street, then get off and walk north. It runs under the hill topped by Buena Vista Park. The N-Judah continues westward, stopping at University of California, San Francisco before heading into the Sunset neighborhood.
Get around
See
Buena Vista ParkSteep paths to the top of its 575' elevation lead to some nice views through the trees, but are easily circumnavigated by non-enthusiasts.
Famous homes(Please note- These are all PAST addresses, none of the people listed still live there and these are peoples' homes and though they are used to and pretty tolerant of tourists taking pictures, their privacy should be respected and one should NOT go knocking on doors.)
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The Grateful Dead house
address: 710 Ashbury St -
The Hell's Angels house
address: 719 Ashbury St -
Janis Joplin house
address: 635 Ashbury St -
Country Joe McDonald house
address: 612 Ashbury St -
Big Brother and the Holding Company house
address: 1018 Page St -
"Hippie Temptation" house
address: 1550 Page StSite of the CBS documentary. -
Ron Donovan house
address: 1828 Page StFormer home of the psychedelic concert poster artist. -
Flipper house
address: 879 Haight StFormer home of the famous punk band. -
Charles Manson house
address: 635 Cole St 731 Buena Vista WestFormer home of Graham Nash (and several owners later) Bobby McFerrin.
1235 Masonic AvePatty Hearst hid in a Symbionese Liberation Army safe-house here.
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Sid Vicious house
address: 32 Delmar StSite of Sid's non-fatal overdose after his last Sex Pistols show.
Duboce ParkThe N Judah streetcar travels along the perimeter of the park and stops at the intersection of Noe Street and Duboce Street. The park is attractive and split into a dog-friendly and a children-friendly section. There is a well maintained children's playground that attracts children from the neighborhood.
Monastery of Perpetual Adoration
Do
Haight Ashbury Flower Power Walking TourBy guides who experienced the 60s and can actually still remember it! 40% architecture/general neighborhood history and 60% counter-culture hippy history comprise this fun and informative 2.5 hour flashback through the neighborhood; includes a trip to the Psychedelic History Museum in a restored Victorian, open only in conjunction with the tour. Tour starts at the McDonalds parking lot at the corner of Stanyan and Waller every Tuesday and Saturday at 9:30AM, every Thursday at 2PM and every Friday at 11AM.
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The Haunted Haight Walking Tour
phone: +1-415-863-1416Shows the spooky and macabre history of the neighborhood in an evening walking tour. Tour starts in front of Coffee to the People at 7PM on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays. Haight Ashbury Street FairOn the second Sunday of June, people pack the Upper Haight for this event featuring local bands, food stalls and plenty of shopping.
Buy
There are several places worth checking out, including:
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phone: +1-415-831-1200address: 1855 Haight StThe best place in San Francisco to buy vinyl and cds, new and used, with an emphasis on indie music. It has one of the largest selections for an indie music store in the country.
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phone: +1-415-863-8688address: 1644 Haight StAn independent bookstore that's been around since the 1970s, this bookstore is best known for its events program, with many book signings from famous and honored authors.
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phone: +1-415-252-9312address: 604a Haight StExotic perfumes and aromatherapy oils, incense, bath beads, jewelry, purses, cards, and vaguely east Indian themed goods. Get some henna painted on your hands in the henna lounge.
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phone: +1-415-431-3392address: 1629 Haight StA non-chain hardware store with over 20,000 items in inventory and another 200,000 available by special order. The oldest family-owned store on Haight Street, celebrating 75 years in 2006. Staffed by knowledgeable, friendly workers who are willing to take the time to explain how to make your repairs without any of the condescension or attitude found in other stores.
Eat
Budget
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Cafe du Soleil
phone: +1-415-934-8637address: 200 Fillmore StOwned by a Morrocan French ex-Pat, this popular cafe serves coffee, pastries, salads, sandwiches, soups, and homemade potato chips. The food can be overpriced, but the atmosphere makes it a popular local hangout. Beer & wine bar, live free jazz most Sundays 5-8PM, and some outdoor seating for a pleasant day. Chic, casual, family friendly. Free wi-fi, but limited power outlets. -
Citrus Club
phone: +1-415-387-6366address: 1790 Haight StThis is an excellent noodle house with dishes chosen from all Asian traditional cuisines. Portions are generous, with an emphasis on flavor over presentation. Decent prices and an unpretentious decor make for a pleasurable group meal. -
Estela's Fresh Sandwiches
phone: +1-415-864-1850address: 250 Fillmore StThe name speaks true. Also try Estela's delicious fruit smoothies. -
Kate's Kitchen
phone: +1-415-626-3984address: 471 Haight StBreakfast - Southern style. If you're really hungry, try the French Toast Orgy. Expect a long wait for weekend brunch (just like everywhere else in San Francisco). -
Love 'n Haight
phone: +1-415-252-8190address: 553 Haight StOften overlooked, but a neighborhood favorite. A family-owned sandwich joint with an Asian flair. Meat and fake meat sandwiches made to order. Try the "veg" duck. -
phone: +1-415-621-9536address: 247 Fillmore StBurgers and cheesesteaks.
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Rosamunde Sausage Grill
phone: +1-415-437-6851address: 545 Haight StDelicious sausages and not much else. Now with a vegan choice! Get here early Tuesday (11AM) to get in line for their once a week burgers. They sell out instantly! Get it for here, to go, or bring it next door to Toronado and have it with some beer.
Mid-range
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phone: +1-415-252-7912address: 698 Haight StThis Ethiopian restaurant is very affordable. Try the vegetarian sampler. If you are hungry, order for two. Wash it down with an Ethiopian beer (2 kinds).
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phone: +1-415-386-7670address: 1801 Haight StPopular Cuban tapas place. Good sangria. Typical wait is 1–2 hours on weekends, and they don't take reservations. Great bar, always crowded with a fun 'artsy' crowd. Be warned, the sangria packs a punch!
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phone: +1-415-864-0955address: 783 Haight StCoffee shop with breakfast, lunch, and an amazing array of desserts, pastries, and munchies. Indoor and patio seating.
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phone: +1-415-626-1628address: 233 Fillmore StThis Indian restaurant is on the expensive side, although it is pretty good. Expect a wait any day of the week.
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phone: +1-415-864-7675address: 576 Haight StGreat southern-style barbecue and (oddly enough) sake. Amazing mac-n-cheese.
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Mythic Pizza
phone: +1-415-864-1999address: 551 Haight StPizza by the slice. -
Naan 'n' Chutney
phone: +1-415-255-1625address: 525 Haight StIndian and Pakistani. -
Pork Store Cafe
phone: +1-415-864-6981address: 1451 Haight StExtremely popular breakfast spot. Always a line on the weekends. Very inexpensive and friendly diner atmosphere and food. -
phone: +1-415-487-0551address: 237 Fillmore StCafe and crepery, part of a small San Francisco chain. Popular for breakfast and lunch, crowded on weekends. Outdoor dining on the back patio when the weather is nice. The side potatoes are a favorite.
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phone: +1-415-864-8484address: 1428 Haight StThis is the chain's other Haight location.
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phone: +1-415-431-2526address: 400 Waller StSometimes called the best Thai in San Francisco; call ahead as this restaurant can be very busy. Or walk in with a small party and have a Singha in the back while you wait to be seated at a family-style table.
Splurge
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Minas Brazilian Restaurant & Cachaçaria
phone: +1-415-626-8727address: 41 Franklin StTraditional Brazilian food, very affordable, but mixed reviews on service.
Markets
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Haight Street Market (aka Gus's)
phone: +1-415-255-0643address: 1530 Haight StFamily-owned grocery store serving the Upper Haight since 1981. Well-stocked, and with a good range of organic fruit and veg. Also has a deli counter that makes a wide range of sandwiches, which can be eaten at the parklet outside.
Drink
Bars
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phone: +1-415-666-0822address: 1725 Haight StStyling itself a 'Whiskey Bar', the Alembic is a place to have classic cocktails as well as original creations. The house Manhattan, made with Rye Whiskey, is phenomenal.
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Aub Zam-Zam
phone: +1-415-861-2545address: 1633 Haight StA 1930s vintage cocktail bar with a beautifully restored arabesque art-deco decor. Written up in 'W' and 'Newsweek' magazines for the best martinis in the US back in the 80s. Drinks are moderately expensive but of exceptional quality, even from the well. An intimate and classy setting for a romantic evening with a juke box that leans toward swing and big band music. Named for the Well of Zamzam, one of the holiest places in Islam, a source of blessed beverages. -
phone: +1-415-558-8375address: 668 Haight StIrish pub where the Guinness is served with a smile, and if you're lucky, an Irish accent to match.
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phone: +1-415-552-6949address: 1511 Haight StThis small, stylish bar has been around for a long time. It's all about Giovanni's Neapolitan Pizza and freshly squeezed cocktails. Deluxe hosts free comedy on Monday nights and jazz every other night, always by local acts. The bartenders are friendly and the crowd is arty and hip.
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Gold Cane
phone: +1-415-626-1112address: 1569 Haight StA great place for cheap, strong drinks, and friendly bar-tenders. Divey atmosphere, local crowd. Has a pool table and small outdoor patio for smokers of all types. -
phone: +1-415-621-5859address: 1601 Haight StOffering a selection of well over 100 rums, this "Victorian punch house" themed bar is best known for it's original alcoholic punches that you can order by the glass or by the bowl. (watch out, they're stronger than you think!) The corner location and large windows make it a perfect spot to grab a drink and people-watch. Go on Sundays when they offer a lavish make-your-own Bloody Mary bar with plenty of fixin's. (don't worry, they'll mix it for you if you're not so inclined) A friendly staff and great jukebox brings the locals in early, more of a younger crowd late night and on weekends.
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Kezar Pub & Restaurant
phone: +1-415-386-9292address: 770 Stanyan StA popular English-themed pub where you can watch soccer. -
Mad Dog in the Fog
phone: +1-415-626-7279address: 530 Haight StThis is an English pub where you can come to watch soccer on TV or go out back where you can smoke. Occasionally live music at night. The hotline for when matches are being played is +1-415-442-7994. Since they open for live matches from England as early as 6AM, its the best place to get a beer before noon in the area on the weekend. -
phone: +1-415-864-7468address: 1398 Haight StServes solid food and microbrews, including some excellent cask conditioned beers.
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Molotov's
phone: +1-415-558-8019address: 582 Haight StLeans towards rockabilly and mohawk crowd. Dog and food friendly. -
phone: +1-415-255-0300address: 466 Haight StDance club and bar - Grateful Dead night every Monday, and popular dub and funk nights during the week as well.
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phone: +1-415-861-5811address: 557 Haight StA very artsy atmosphere. You can get many Trappist monk beers here. Live DJ nightly. Tarot readings Mondays 6-9PM. Beer, wine and sake (no hard liquor). Alas for smokers: Big Brother finally put down the rebellion and smoking is now relegated to the sidewalk in front.
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phone: +1-415-863-2276address: 547 Haight StThis bar has forty-six beers on tap and a bottled beer menu which covers two whole pages. They serve many microbrews and imports from Germany, Belgium, and Japan. Come through the Dutch door and if there is no room in the front bar, there is a back room with tables. No food is served, but you may bring food in from any of the many restaurants nearby. This is a cash only establishment.
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phone: +1-415-864-4213address: 1437 Haight StA gay bar for gay men and lesbians that is also very much straight-friendly. Small, divey, and a local's scene. Drinks are cheap, and on Saturday nights it offers ridiculously cheap drink specials ($1 well cocktails before 10PM).
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Underground SF
phone: +1-415-864-7386address: 424 Haight StDance club and bar, formerly called The Top, which features different theme nights, some of which are geared towards alternative culture.
Coffee
Cafe du SoleilPopular cafe serving decent coffee and lattes.
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phone: +1-415-552-7390address: 508 Haight StOffers net access, live music, food, and a variety of beverages from coffee, tea, beer, wine to fresh squeezed juices. Good desserts.
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phone: +1-415-626-2435address: 1206 Masonic AveA favorite community gathering spot, Coffee to the People serves giant sandwiches, hearty soups, and organic and fair trade coffee and tea. Their croissant breakfast sandwiches are especially popular with locals. The shop is laptop/work friendly, with free wi-fi and almost a dedicated section to people working around notepads and notebooks. The shop has an overtly political theme and decor and is a good spot for people watching.
Sleep
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phone: +1-415-861-5364address: 319 Divisadero StA reasonably priced hotel just one block north of Haight Street. The rooms are quite basic, but functional, clean, and quite inexpensive for the central city. There is an excellent French restaurant downstairs, with outdoor dining and weekend brunch. Rooms directly over Divisadero Street can be quite loud on the weekends.
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phone: +1-415-864-1978address: 1665 Haight StA throwback to the Haight-Ashbury's glory days during the 1960s, this peace and love themed B&B has several eclectically themed rooms and suites, as well as a cafe downstairs.
Connect
Coffee to the PeopleSee above in Drink. Free wireless internet.
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San Francisco Public Library - Park Branch
phone: +1-415-355-5656address: 1833 Page St
Stay safe
Both areas of the Haight can be dangerous late at night after the bars close. Travel smart when on foot at night. There are always other people walking up and down Haight Street so you won't be alone.