San Francisco/Mission
The Mission District is a district of San Francisco noted for its ethnic diversity, in particular the neighborhood's large Hispanic community. Though the district is slowly gentrifying, many urban artisans and immigrants still make their home here, and the restaurant and nightlife scene here is among the best in the city and perhaps the most locally oriented one. The district is bounded roughly by the 101 freeway on the east and north, Dolores/Church Streets on the west, and Cesar Chavez Street on the south.
Understand
During the 19th century, the Mission District was physically separated from San Francisco proper, which mostly clustered around the seaport on the San Francisco Bay. The district's area was a pleasant country day trip for San Franciscans, and soon grew into a small village. By the end of the 1800s, the area had been assimilated into the rest of the city.
By the early 20th century, after the 1906 earthquake that destroyed several blue-collar neighborhoods, Irish and Italians relocated to the quickly expanding Mission District. From the 1940s the district gradually became more populated with Mexican/Latin-American immigrants creating a strong counterculture in the arts and politics during the civil rights movement. Following this era, the Mission remained a strongly Chicano and Latin-American neighborhood, but also with a great contingency of African-American, Asian-American and European-American driven by the relatively cheap rents in the neighborhood. In the 1980s and early 1990s, it attracted an influx of new artists, musicians, and other counterculture types.
By the turn of the 21st century, the district experienced an increased gentrification. Expensive restaurants and the construction of "live-work" spaces were moving in to the area, displacing hundreds of residents. However, as the post-Internet boom recedes, the wave of affluence is partly diminishing and the Mission is continuing to be a place for multicultural encounters, where long term residents, immigrants, hipsters and yuppies are living side-by-side.
Get in
From other parts of San Francisco and the Bay Area, BART serves the Mission neighborhood with stations at 16th Street and Mission (served by the MUNI 14, 22, 33, 49 and 55 bus lines) and 24th Street and Mission (served by the MUNI 14, 48, 49 and 67 bus lines).
The MUNI Metro Church line runs along the western edge of the area from downtown between the Mission and the Castro and Noe Valley neighborhoods, and passes within a block of the Mission Dolores that gives the Mission neighborhood its name. From the J line you can just walk into the area or easily transfer to one of the following MUNI bus lines:
- 22-Fillmore from the Church Street Metro station. From the station, the #22 will travel down Church Street, then turn left onto 16th Street and travel across the Mission neighborhood to Potrero Hill on the other side.
- 33-Ashbury/18th from the Church and 18th Metro station. From the station the #33 will head east on 18th Street before turning left on Mission, then turning right onto 16th Street. Then it will turn right again onto Potrero Avenue and head south to 25th Street before turning around again.
- 48-Quintara/24th Street from the Church and 24th Metro station. Through the area, the #48 travels east-west along 24th Street.
Other bus routes which serve the area include the 14-Mission and 14R-Mission Rapid buses, which run right down Mission Street from the north and south, the 49-Mission/Van Ness, which comes down Mission Street from Van Ness near Fisherman's Wharf, the 9-San Bruno which runs along Potrero Avenue through the Mission neighborhood, the 12-Folsom/Pacific which heads down Folsom through Mission to Cesar Chavez before looping back to the 24th St BART station, and the 27-Bryant which runs along Bryant Street through Mission to Cesar Chavez.
For cars, the Cesar Chavez Street exit from highway 101 comes right into the Mission, and the San Jose Avenue exit from Highway 280 North brings you past Bernal Heights and onto Guerrero Avenue.
Get around
By car: You will find that people attending religious ceremonies at one of the churches dotting the Mission will park down the center lane of Valencia. This is not a common practice at any other time and not advised as SFPD will not hesitate to have you towed. A popular dinner destination neighborhood, street parking is difficult to find in the early evenings. There are two cheap parking garages, one at 21st Street and Bartlett between Valencia and Mission and another on 16th and Hoff St also between Valencia and Mission.
By bicycle: You'll see many people using the dedicated bike lanes on Valencia Street, but the entire neighborhood, with the exception of the Dolores Park area, is flat and easy to navigate.
See
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phone: +1-415-621-8203address: 3321 16th StThe oldest building in San Francisco, commissioned in 1776 by Father Serra and members of the De Anza Expedition as the sixth of the twenty-one missions in California. The original mission is a small building adjacent to the parish church, a large building with intricately decorated towers that was also the first Catholic church west of the Mississippi River to be deemed a basillica.
Mission Dolores ParkOne of the city's most popular parks, this is one of the main neighborhood hangouts, with people regularly partying or partaking in some recreational marijuana on its grassy slopes, as well as a sunny retreat for many San Franciscans when the rest of the city gets foggy. There are plenty of recreational facilities as well as a fantastic playground built into the hillside, and the top of the park (at the corner of 20th and Dolores) offers an excellent view of the San Francisco skyline.
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phone: +1-415-431-1180address: 3543 18th St, #8Houses women's nonprofits groups and has a beautiful mural, the MaestraPeace Mural, on the front.
Precita Eyes MuralsCan be found all around the Mission neighborhood, especially on 24th Street, east of Mission Street.
Balmy AlleyAn alley full of incredible murals. There are some really beautiful works here, and it's always changing.
Clarion AlleyAnother alley full of murals, between 17th and 18th and Mission and Valencia.
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phone: +1-415-826-8009address: 2857 24th StOpened in 1970, the non-profit gallery specializes in Chicano/Latino art.
Do
Carnaval San FranciscoLate May. A Mardi Gras-like event which features a parade with colorful costumes, choreographed dancers, and scantily clad women.
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Outdoor open mike poetry/music/spoken word/etc.
address: 16th and MissionEvery Thursday starting sometime between 9PM and 10PM and ending around midnight on the southwest street corner at 16th and Mission. No mike (so you have to shout...), and no sign-up. Completely free to all. Open to poets, MCs, musicians, comedians and all manner of performers, the open mic has been happening for the past five years and has recently spawned a lit magazine, the 16th & Mission Review, and a website: 16thmission.com - newcomers are encouraged to perform. Bag your beer and see what the fuss is about!
Theaters
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phone: +1-415-863-1087address: 3117 16th StAn independent art-film theater, with some of the best features shown in the country. If it's showing here, it's usually worth seeing.
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phone: +1-415-826-5750address: 1062 Valencia StA breeding ground for new performance, playwriting workshops, performances, a youth program, and classes. Some excellent one-person shows have been hatched out in the Marsh.
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phone: +1-415-824-3890address: 992 Valencia StA nonprofit educational group and screening venue for independent film and video. This center often shows genuinely strange art films and videos, particularly during their frequent "open screenings" (you bring it, they'll show it). Don't miss the intriguing window displays.
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phone: +1-415-549-5959address: 2550 Mission StA theater with current popular movies, reserved seating and food and drink service.
Buy
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phone: +1-415-642-5905address: 826 Valencia StThe majority of this space is dedicated to children's writing workshops. The front, however, is a cheeky store selling all things pirate. Not to be missed. Founded by McSweeney's Dave Eggers.
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phone: +1-415-865-9807address: 890 Valencia StA design-minded shop with a wide array of lifestyle accessories, bed and bath products and dining accouterments. It's also a shop that caters to all of your baby needs, with stylish clothing, hand-picked toys, and unique, modern furnishings.
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phone: +1-415-824-8203address: 866 Valencia StAn independent bookstore selling genre fiction (science fiction, fantasy, mystery, and horror) that frequently hosts book clubs, signings, and other events. So beloved by the community that, when it nearly closed in 2015, patrons organized sponsorships to keep it open.
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phone: +1-415-282-1901address: 900 Valencia StA great selection of used books and readings by authors.
Eat
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Arinell's Pizza
phone: +1-415-255-1303address: 509 Valencia StPizza by the slice. Loved and worshipped by East Coast transplants for being some of the closest to real NY pizza available in the Bay Area. Open until 3AM on weekends. -
phone: +1-415-643-3558address: 3372 19th StA Senegalese restaurant with roots in West African Senegalese culture.
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phone: +1-415-824-4088address: 3296 22nd StHipster-ed up diner, only open for lunch & breakfast. Long lines on the weekends, but surprisingly it moves quickly. Much better vegan breakfast option than Herbivore. Try the plantain cake and the mimosas.
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phone: +1-415-826-7004address: 3000 20th StOriginal and unique good tasting dishes, excellent service.
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phone: +1-415-824-1502address: 2327 Mission StExcellent tapas in a brick-walled dining room with a bar dominating the center of the room. Expect a loud, party atmosphere, not a quiet, romantic setting. The Cajun Shrimp and the Fried Platanos Maduros are heavenly.
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phone: +1-415-648-7600address: 2534 Mission StDinner and a movie. The Laszlo Bar. A little splurgy and quite fine. Reservations recommended.
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phone: +1-415-863-8272address: 3412 17th StA funky Belgian fries place, at which no Belgian works, and whose sandwiches are meh. They have fries, but gravy is not an option, so if you're from Canada, skip it. They do have wireless, however, but you have to ask. Sandwich is worth the cost of internet, if you want to evaluate things in that way. The "space" is nice too. Their toilet is pretty clean, though it plays French instructional tapes, the contents of which include children and the directions to the toilet, which may be unsettling (si vous parlez francais).
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phone: +1 415 683-1346address: 2211 Mission St.Organic, vegan Mexican food. A lot of the dishes include their unusual and surprisingly tasty cashew cheese.
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phone: +1-415-826-5657address: 983 Valencia StAll-vegan restaurant. Mediocre entrees, but delicious sandwiches, soups & salads. If it sounds too complicated, don't order it. Only all-vegan brunch in the area.
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phone: +1-415-285-5200address: 3285 21st StNiman Ranch beef, or seitan veggie/vegan sandwich options. Great garlic fries!
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phone: +1-415-551-7827address: 400 Valencia StFor a deep dish that can't be beat here, in Chicago, or anywhere else.
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phone: +1-415-875-9370address: 3101 24th StThe place for serious coffee drinkers. Choose from a wide variety of beans from all over the world, light, medium or dark roast.
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phone: +1-415-431-4089address: 3120 16th StIf you like authentic tapas, the way they were before "small plates" were all the rage, then you'll definitely love the reasonably priced, authentic and generously portioned Spanish dishes here. Don't forget to try their Sangria.
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Puerto Alegre
phone: +1-415-255-8201address: 546 Valencia StLocal favorite, Puerto Alegre churns out inexpensive, delicious Mexican food & margaritas in a fun, festive environment. Divey atmosphere, but that's what you come to the Mission for. Very long wait on the weekends, but absolutely worth it. Host rules the restaurant with an iron fist, so don't try to sneak in! -
phone: +1-415-641-1011address: 1026 Valencia StAbsolutely the best coffee in the city. Organic beans roasted locally, each cup made fresh individually. A large seating area with free wi-fi.
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phone: +1-415-695-1615address: 3274 21st StBuy a "slice" for under $3 or add toppings for a few cents more, and they'll make a fresh-to-your order triangular slice-shaped pizza that overlaps a dinner plate at three points. Free delivery. Cash or credit, no checks.
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Taqueria Cancun
phone: +1-415-252-9560address: 2288 Mission StCommonly touted as having the best vegetarian burrito in SF. If you're a meat-eater, try the Alambres (beef, peppers, onions, and bacon sauteed together, served with beans, rice, tortillas and (optional) avocado. -
Taqueria El Castillito
phone: +1-415-621-6971address: 2092 Mission StWhile everyone has their favorite Mission taqueria, this one may legitimately have a claim to the 'best salsa verde' throne, which is filled with serious avocado chunks. Also, they grill (rather than steam) their tortillas, a key burrito preparation issue. -
phone: +1-415-824-7877address: 2779 Mission StGigantic super burritos. Grilled chicken and steak both are really great. Super steak quesadilla is the highlight of the menu. Open till 3AM on Friday and Saturday, 1AM the rest of the week. Nachos are enormous. Expect a line of drunks after midnight.
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phone: +1-415-487-2600address: 600 Guerrero StOne of the Bay Area's best bakeries; rich, decadent, and pricey.
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We Be Sushi
phone: +1-415-565-0749address: 538 Valencia StThe best of a handful of locations of this restaurant, truly "sushi like mom used to make". Try the early bird special. -
phone: +1 415 489-0963address: 3228 16th StNeopolitan-style wood-fired pizza and other Italian food. The owner and most of the staff are Deaf and can use American Sign Language (ASL). Reservations are recommended and can be made online.
Markets
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phone: +1-415-241-9760address: 3639 18th StHow do they get that much good produce and that incredible deli counter into that storefront? Essential neighborhood and picnic-in-the-park resource. Dolores Park is handily enough a block away, and you're likely to find festivals, rallies, or the SF Mime Troupe at the start and close of their summer touring season there along with kids, dogs and tennis players.
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phone: +1-415-647-5581address: 1100 Valencia StAn old-world style Italian deli/dry goods grocery who, bless them, sell ingredients. Check out the Ferlenghetti poem over the door while getting your sheet-pan pizza, sliced turkey, good wine and tiramisu.
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Valencia Whole Foods
phone: +1-415-285-0231address: 999 Valencia StOrganic produce and groceries, good bulk foods, and a deli with organic salads, Middle Eastern foods, and sandwiches to order. A neighborhood essential.
Drink
While you're in SF, a shot of Fernet Branca with a ginger ale chaser is a must. Also try beers from two great local microbreweries: Anchor Steam (once described as "sex in a bottle") and Speakeasy's Prohibition Ale and Big Daddy IPA.
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The 500 Club
phone: +1-415-861-2500address: 500 Guerrero StGreat neighborhood alterna-hipster bar, but in a good way. Formerly an old man dive bar that's been taken over by the thick black rimmed glasses youngster. -
phone: +1-415-970-0012address: 853 Valencia StSmall bar with eclectic live music every weeknight. Wine & beer only.
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phone: +1-415-829-3375address: 2730 21st StRelatively new bar with a great selection of beer, wine, and spirits. Awesome tapas. The "Queso Fundido" is wicked and it packs enough calories to keep you dancing until 4AM. Audio and video feeds of live DJs are streamed in to work around current license restrictions. This place is fun when it's packed and when it's empty.
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phone: +1-415-285-0323address: 2299 Mission SOne the few real dance clubs in the Mission, Beauty Bar used to be popular with hipsters but is now mainly populated with a more ghetto crowd.
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phone: +1-415-864-2419address: 540 Valencia StDrinks are not cheap (several dollars more than every other bar on the block, but also twice as large), although to be fair the drinks are well made and strong. Truly good martinis, admittedly.
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phone: +1-415-863-9328address: 527 Valencia StAn awesome cross between a stylish lounge and hipster joint with the best ambiance of any Mission bar. DJs spin a wide variety of music nightly. Enjoy the '70s era velvet paintings of topless women, some posing with wild animals, and the black Burt Reynolds.
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phone: +1-415-252-7740address: 3121 16th StIt's very dimly lit but cool decor. Excellent jukebox, though after 9PM they tend to turn it up just a touch too loud. Frequently has great DJ's playing funk / R&B but varies; clientele leans toward the gentrification crowd. Lots of smoke from the VIP room in the back filters out into the main bar. Excellent happy hour!
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phone: +1-415-552-5525address: 3139 16th StThe Albion was truly a vaguely scary dive bar. Delirium was another great neighborhood bar, but it's shockingly turned into a bit of a bridge and tunnel 20-something meatmarket these days. They have a place to dance in the back, with good 60s rock and soul on Wednesdays.
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phone: +1-415-824-3627address: 2417 Mission StA truly great dive bar with a shuffleboard table and Connect Four, if that's your passion.
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phone: +1-415-552-7788address: 647 Valencia StA fun place: bar downstairs, live music club upstairs.
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phone: +1-415-552-1633address: 3200 16th StOne of the oldest bars in San Francisco, since 1858. Rock music, Pub quiz, charity events, great drink specials and a warm vibe.
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phone: +1-415-552-1633address: 3200 16th StOne of the oldest bars in San Francisco, since 1858. Rock music, Pub quiz, charity events, great drink specials and a warm vibe.
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Gestalt
phone: +1-415-655-9935address: 3159 16th StBeer bar with a large tap list, some sausages, and a bunch of pinball machines. -
phone: +1-415-861-2595address: 3160 16th StFun yet intimate bar. Great music on the jukebox (if you like speed metal) and a decent place to play pool or darts or just get a drink. Outstanding bartenders.
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phone: +1-415-647-2732address: 3286 22nd StDecorated in dusty kitsch, the LAC also has large paintings for sale by local artists. They can offer up some of the best, strongest margaritas in town. Just one, that's all it takes.
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phone: +1-415-282-6789address: 998 Guerrero StIrish Pub. Excellent late weekend brunch no one knows about.
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phone: +1-415-865-9523address: 3141 16th StA small tavern with good pub food that specializes in craft beer.
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phone: +1-415-695-1811address: 811 Valencia StGeneric Irish pub with surprisingly good food.
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Phone Booth
phone: +1-415-648-4683address: 1398 S Van Ness AveAnother competitor for the
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phone: +1-415-647-1141address: 3349 20th StThe definition of a neighborhood bar. Still smoky despite the smoking ban.
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phone: +1-415-621-9294address: 3089 16th StA bit of a meatmarket 'club' scene. Mostly hip-hop style and "gangster" wannabe crowd, mostly not from the city. Lots of dancing. Clientele is usually very friendly and outgoing and the bartenders handle the busy crowds with aplomb.
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Uptown
phone: +1-415-861-8231address: 200 Capp StSmall neighborhood bar with artsy aging punk rockers and a relaxed attitude. Dogs and bicycles welcome. -
phone: +1-415-255-7505address: 199 Valencia StCool motorcycle/bike courier punk rock-ish alterna-crowd. The bartenders can (and almost always do) often drip with attitude. They, and the regulars, can be fiercely protective of their little hideaway. Awesome and huge backyard (i.e. beer garden). Rowdy on weekend nights and they bbq too.
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phone: +1-415-621-7058address: 225 Church StA low-key, unpretentious gay bar with plenty of room inside.
Sleep
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phone: +1-415-641-0188address: 943 S Van Ness AveAn old Victorian house converted into a bed and breakfast.
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phone: +1-415-801-5000address: 1906 Mission St (at 15th)Freshly renovated hostel/B&B with private double and queen bedrooms, all with shared bathrooms. Very clean and quiet. The bathrooms feel positively luxurious with piles of fresh towels, toiletries and wooden finishes. Breakfast included.
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phone: +1-415-824-0288address: 3743 Cesar Chavez St.An urban convent with a guest apartment on the street level which opens onto a surprisingly quiet flower and vegetable garden. Separate entrance, kitchen, bathroom, living room, and a double bed and a single bed in the bedroom. Free internet access and TV with basic cable. Limited on-street parking is available in the neighborhood. Open for guests for short periods of time (normally 2 weeks or less). Suggested donation is $50 a night. Kitchen is equipped for self-catering with breakfast items furnished in the apartment.
Connect
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San Francisco Public Library - Mission Branch
phone: +1-415-355-2800address: 300 Bartlett St