Santa Fe (New Mexico)

History

Santa Fe was once the capital of Spain's, and then Mexico's, territories north of the Rio Grande, but its visible history extends far beyond the arrival of the Spanish; it is thought to have been the site of Puebloan villages that had already been long abandoned by the time the Spanish arrived in 1607. It became the state capital when the territory of New Mexico achieved statehood in 1912.
In the early 20th century, the area attracted a number of artists, such as Georgia O'Keeffe and Alfred Stieglitz. The region remains important on America's art scene. The arrival of Igor Stravinsky and the founding of the Santa Fe Opera, one of the world's leading opera companies, had a similarly invigorating and enduring influence on the musical community. Many people go to Santa Fe for spiritual gatherings and to practice meditative arts at the many spas and resorts that are in and around Santa Fe.
Santa Fe is rooted in paradoxes. On the one hand, it is one of the United States' oldest cities (by some reckonings the oldest), and many residents can trace their roots and property holdings in town back to the 17th century. On the other hand, it has also been the target of a teeming influx of wealthy immigrants in the last 30 years or so that has spurred a great deal of new construction and created inflated prices for real estate—and drastically elevated taxes on old family properties, many of which are owned by families that can't afford the taxes. The tension between new and old, rich and poor, etc., is a persistent undercurrent in the community. These and other factors (not the least of which is a well-deserved reputation as a haven for flamboyant characters) contribute to Santa Fe's uniqueness.

Climate

Much of the city's attractiveness, from both scenic and cultural perspectives, arises from its setting in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. This location produces a mild continental climate with four distinct seasons. Winters are pleasant, with day-time highs usually in the 40s (°Fahrenheit), often "feeling" warmer due to the sunny conditions. Snow varies wildly from year to year; some winters see almost no snow, while others will have several individual storms dropping a foot or more each. (The sun and high altitude mean that roads usually aren't clogged too badly, even by the big storms, for more than a day or two, as the snow melts rapidly.) Spring, usually dry and moderate in temperature, is still probably the least pleasant time to visit from a weather perspective, because of strong winds. Early summer (June, early July) is hot and dry, with highs around , but gives way around mid-July to a truly delightful climate as summer, monsoonal thunderstorms peel off the mountains and cool the afternoons down. Bring rainwear if visiting in July or August. The monsoons typically die out in early September leading to a fall with dry, sunny days and clear, crisp evenings; first frost is usually in October, with snow starting to stick in the mountains at about that time.
One caution: the elevation is high enough to challenge the lungs of the visitor freshly up from sea level. It's wise to spend your first day on relatively sedentary activities (museums, walking the downtown area) and move to more active things after you've had some time to acclimatize.

By plane

• Santa Fe Municipal AirportAmerican Eagle Airlines serves with daily service from Dallas/Fort Worth, while United Express has daily service to Denver.

If entering New Mexico via the larger Albuquerque airport, rent a car and drive, as there is no commuter air service connecting the two airports. You can also take the Rail Runner commuter train (see below) or one of the shuttle buses such as Sandia Shuttle, which will pick you up at the Albuquerque airport and drop you off at one of a handful of locations in Santa Fe.

By rail

A commuter rail line, the New Mexico Rail Runner Express, connects Santa Fe to Albuquerque and surrounding communities (from Downtown Albuquerque you can catch a shuttle to the airport, ABQ). There are four stations in Santa Fe: the at the Railyards on Guadalupe Street near the Sanbusco Center, the South Capitol station off Cordova Road between Cerrillos Road and St. Francis Drive, the Zia Road station at Zia Road and St. Francis Drive on the south side of town, and the NM 599 station at I-25 and NM 599 southwest of town. The Santa Fe Depot is the most useful for sightseeing, as it puts you in the historic downtown area within relatively easy walking distance of the plaza, with a shuttle circulating around the downtown area if you don't want to walk. The other stations are meant more for commuters and are of little use to sightseers. The Rail Runner runs daily, although service can be limited outside the weekday rush hour periods. Fares are based on how far you ride; a day pass will usually be in the range of $5–10. Tickets can be purchased online or from ticket agents on the train.
The major Amtrak route across the Southwest, the Southwest Chief, stops at Lamy about 15 miles south of Santa Fe off US Highway 285. The once-daily trains stop in Lamy mid-afternoon, and a shuttle van service can take you to Santa Fe. The station in Lamy has an old cafe car serving lunch, food vendors on the platform, and picnic tables beneath shady cottonwoods. Travelers with bicycles may find the shuttle van to Santa Fe is unable to transport their bicycles unless special arrangements have been made; an alternative is to send any luggage ahead via the shuttle and ride the bicycle - there's a federally designated rail trail along an unused rail line between Lamy and Santa Fe, but between the Amtrak station and US 285 you must travel via the road, then north on US 285 to the trailhead.

By car

Santa Fe lies along Interstate 25, which skirts the city. Be suspicious of weather conditions if coming to Santa Fe on this road. Santa Fe is nearly above Albuquerque, and on I-25, most of the elevation change is on a single long, steep hill known as "La Bajada." La Bajada hill is hairy to drive during winter snowstorms and is occasionally closed for periods of several hours. East of town, I-25 North goes over a moderate pass along the southern end of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains before heading out into the plains; this too can be closed during blizzards.
If conditions are good and you're not in a hurry, consider using back roads as an alternative to I-25 if coming from Albuquerque. State road 14 passes along the east side of the Sandia Mountains and through the quaint little towns of Madrid and Cerrillos before joining the interstate just south of Santa Fe.
Santa Fe was on the original Route 66, although it was bypassed during the 1930s as a result of some curious political shenanigans and the much shorter, modern Route 66 didn't go anywhere near here. See the Original alignment in New Mexico section of the Route 66 article for tips on how to get here "authentically." Coming from points east, you might also consider entering town via the Santa Fe Trail itinerary, which shares roads with the Route 66 itinerary near Santa Fe.

By bus

There is no long-distance scheduled bus service into Santa Fe. The nearest Greyhound stop is in Albuquerque, at the Alvarado Transportation Center in downtown. From there, the most convenient option to Santa Fe is to take the Rail Runner train, which stops right next to the bus depot.
Both New Mexico Park and Ride and the NCRTD provide commuter bus service on weekdays with routes that connect Santa Fe to surrounding communities. Additionally, the NCRTD operates the Taos Express weekend service to Taos and the daily Mountain Trail route up Hyde Park Road between Santa Fe and Ski Santa Fe.

Outside of the downtown area (consisting roughly of the blocks surrounding the Plaza and the adjacent Railyards district and Canyon Road), a car is definitely your best bet and will be all but necessary for visiting any of the more far-flung attractions (e.g. the Opera, the mountains, any of the nearby pueblos). However, if you're only staying for a couple of days, you can certainly get by without a car with what the small but vibrant downtown has to offer; it is very pedestrian-friendly and walked, often, by many people late into the evening, particularly in summertime when the tourists flood in.

By bus

• Santa Fe PickupThe free shuttles serve the main areas of interest for tourists. One route runs in a loop through the downtown area, connecting the Santa Fe train depot, the State Capitol, and the Plaza. This route runs every 10 minutes between 6:30AM-5:30PM on weekdays, 8:30AM-5:30PM on Saturdays, and 10AM-5:30PM on Sundays. The second route runs between the State Capitol, Canyon Road, and Museum Hill every half-hour 10AM-5:30PM daily.

• Santa Fe Trails

  phone: +1 505 955-2001
  Limited, but improving, public transportation is available from the city's bus service. Bus fare is $1, a day pass costs $2, and a 31-day pass costs $20; youth under 18 ride free, half-fare for seniors/disabled. Buy fare or passes from the bus driver (cash only, exact change required). The most useful routes for tourists are #2, which runs along Cerrillos Road between downtown and the Santa Fe Place mall, and Route M, which runs between the Santa Fe train depot, downtown and Museum Hill.

By car

Parking can be a problem during the summer, but look for parking lots (fee) near St. Francis Cathedral, the Convention Center, and between Water and San Francisco Streets west of the Plaza. If in town during any major event (Indian Market, Fiesta, etc.) plan on parking away from downtown and taking a shuttle, e.g. from De Vargas Mall.
The main roads through town are St. Francis Drive (US 84/285) from north to south, Cerrillos Road (NM SR 14) from the downtown area southwest to I-25 and beyond, Old Santa Fe Trail and its offshoot Old Pecos Trail from downtown southeast to I-25, and St. Michaels Drive and Rodeo Road and its offshoots, both connecting Old Pecos Trail and Cerrillos east to west. Most outlying attractions are accessible via one of these roads. The downtown area is a remarkable warren of small roads that you really don't want to drive on; park your car and walk. Streets there tend to wander (Paseo de Peralta, one of the main roads in the downtown area, almost completes a loop) and, even when apparently rectilinear, are not necessarily aligned to true north-south/east-west. Take extra care for pedestrians and cyclists, many streets have sharp turns.
If you're bound for the Santa Fe Opera from Albuquerque or points south, consider taking the Santa Fe Relief Route (NM SR 599), which leaves I-25 south of the Cerrillos Road exit, bypasses most of Santa Fe, and meets US 84/285 just south of the Opera. This can be a good way of getting to lodging and restaurants on the north side of town as well; although it's a few miles out of the way, the much less chaotic driving, particularly around rush hour, provides considerable compensation.
Once you get to Santa Fe, consider taking a tour of downtown. Several companies offer open-air tram tours, like Loretto Line Tours (available in the parking lot of the Loretto Chapel). These tours last about 1½ hours and give you a sense of the architecture, culture and history of the downtown area.

Like many towns founded by the Spanish, Santa Fe has a central square, the , that is a gathering place for all types. For hours of entertainment, pull up a bench and people watch; you'll rapidly gain an appreciation for how the "City Different" nickname applies. Especially nice in the summer evenings as the temperatures drop (although rain may drop as well) and the people come out.

Museums

Santa Fe has a variety of interesting museums, most in the downtown area and easily reached on foot. Four of the biggest in Santa Fe (the Palace of the Governors, the New Mexico Museum of Art, the Museum of International Folk Art, and the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture) are sub-units of the Museum of New Mexico, for which you can buy a shared pass for $20 that allows access to all four museums and the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art within a four-day period. If you only have time for one, individual passes are available.
The following is a list of museums in the downtown area:

• Palace of the Governors / New Mexico History Museum

  phone: +1 505 476-5200
  address: 105 E Palace Ave
  The oldest public building in the United States, the Palace of the Governors is a 17th-century building that once served as the main capitol building and now houses an excellent historical museum and shop, with exhibits on the history of the building and a functioning antique print press. Behind the Palace is the New Mexico History Museum, with three floors of exhibits on the history of New Mexico, including numerous artifacts from the prehistory to the present. Local Native American artists sell their work beneath the portal facing the Plaza. The Palace – but not the museum – is CLOSED until Spring 2019.

• New Mexico Museum of Art

  phone: +1 505 476-5072
  address: 107 W Palace Ave
  Though it has been outflanked by the O'Keeffe Museum to some extent, this museum has a somewhat more diverse, although still New-Mexico-centric, collection. The Museum's St. Francis Auditorium is one of the primary venues in town for concerts, particularly of a classical or folk flavor.

• Georgia O'Keeffe Museum

  phone: +1 505 946-1000
  address: 217 Johnson St
  Devoted to the 20th-century artist who settled near Abiquiu, a small town north of Santa Fe. Only free after 5PM on the first Friday of every month, and only applies to New Mexico residents.

• Museum of Contemporary Native Arts

  phone: +1 505 983-8900
  address: 108 Cathedral Pl
  The Institute for American Indian Arts (IAIA) is a long-standing Santa Fe institution that helps to promote the Santa Fe Indian Market (see under "Do"/"Festivals"). Their museum holds a superb collection of contemporary Indian art.

• SITE Santa Fe

  phone: +1 505 989-1199
  address: 1606 Paseo De Peralta
  A private contemporary arts venue with an ongoing schedule of exhibitions of artists who merit international recognition - this is really cutting edge stuff.

Museum Hill, south of downtown, is home to a collection of art and culture museums in the foothills overlooking Santa Fe. While not within walking distance of downtown, it is accessible via public transportation (Santa Fe Trails Route M from the plaza area, or Santa Fe Pickup museum shuttle from the state capitol).

• Museum of International Folk Art

  phone: +1 505 476-1200
  address: 706 Camino Lejo
  Of particular delight in this museum is its massive Girard exhibition, which contains many large, colorful displays of toys, nativity scenes, textiles, model villages, and traditional arts from around the world. The museum also features a superb collection of local Hispanic art as well as a good roster of changing exhibits. Home of the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market held in July (see under "Do"/"Festivals").

• Museum of Indian Arts & Culture

  phone: +1 505 476-1250
  address: 710 Camino Lejo
  A large museum with American Indian artworks and exhibits on their culture and history, including a rather superb collection of pottery and displays of both historic and contemporary Indian life.

• Museum of Spanish Colonial Art

  phone: +1 505 982-2226
  address: 750 Camino Lejo
  A small but splendid museum which showcases many Hispano artworks and artifacts from the original Spanish settlers of the area. The museum also sponsors the annual Spanish Market (see under "Do"/"Festivals").

• Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian

  phone: +1 505 982-4636
  address: 704 Camino Lejo
  Excellent Native American art collection, with a quaint little gift shop, the Case Trading Post, that sells superb examples of Native arts that reflect the quality of the collection. Frequent special events.

There are also a couple other museums outside the plaza area (but not on Museum Hill) that are very much worth checking out:

• Santa Fe Children's Museum

  phone: +1 505 989-8359
  address: 1050 Old Pecos Trail
  Many participatory exhibits and various accessible critters both inside and out; the indoor area holds several construction toy areas and a bubble-making area, while the outdoor area features a garden and greenhouse with plenty of kid's activities available.

• El Rancho de las Golondrinas

  phone: +1 505 471-2261
  address: 334 Los Pinos Rd
  A massive outdoor "living history" museum portraying Spanish colonial days, with reconstructions of a village, farms, orchards, a vineyard, and a large water mill. In May you'll be dodging swarms of bored children on school field trips; visiting in the fall is better.

Architecture

• There are several photogenic churches in town, most of them open for visits during daylight hours when no church services are in progress (please be respectful and don't attempt flash photography):

• St. Francis Cathedral

  phone: +1 505 982-5619
  address: 213 Cathedral Pl
  One of the "must-see" places in town, with an impressive interior and beautiful art both inside and out. A tip for the photographer: the main façade faces west, so photographing the exterior (including several striking sculptures out front) tends to be most rewarding, atypically for Santa Fe, in the middle of the day, particularly the afternoon.

• Loretto Chapel

  phone: +1 505 982-0092
  address: 211 Old Santa Fe Trail
  Built in 1878 and modeled after the Gothic Sainte Chapelle in Paris. An intriguing legend - The Miraculous Staircase - is attached below and serves as the highlight on the church. The Loretto is also a popular romantic wedding venue.

• San Miguel Mission

  phone: +1 505 983-3974
  address: 401 Old Santa Fe Trail
  Thought to be the oldest surviving mission church in the United States, the San Miguel is a rather simple but lovely adobe structure. Behind the mission, along the narrow alleyway, is a small structure whose owners claim it to be the "Oldest House in the U.S." built by Europeans; a claim which though inaccurate reflects the long history of the site.

• Santuario de Guadalupe

  phone: +1 505 988-2027
  address: 100 Guadalupe
  A favorite musical venue, the Santuario is an excellent example of Spanish Colonial architecture and contains a superb collection of religious artworks.

• Scottish Rite Temple

  phone: +1 505 982-4415 (main),+1 505 980-9304 (to schedule tours)
  address: 463 Paseo de Peralta
  A startling, bright pink Moorish-style building modeled after the Alhambra in Granada, Spain.

The State Capitol Building

phone: +1 505 986-4589

address: corner of Old Santa Fe Trail and Paseo de Peralta

One of the country's most unusual and striking state capitol buildings; usually open to visitors during working hours. It's known locally as "the Roundhouse," and even a casual look will tell you why.

An enormous number of Santa Fe structures are on the National Register of Historic Places. Rather than recapping the whole list here, visit the web site. A good way of sampling the Historic Places is to start at the Plaza (itself one of the designated places) and work your way out. At least 40 places on the Register can be reached conveniently from here.

Festivals

Santa Fe hosts a seemingly unending series of community fairs, festivals and celebrations, of which the most characteristic is the Fiesta de Santa Fe. This grand city-wide festival is held over the weekend after Labor Day in mid-September, after most of the summer tourists have left (and has been described as Santa Fe throwing a party for itself to celebrate the tourists leaving!). The celebration commemorates the reconquest of Santa Fe in 1692 by the Spanish after the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. Fiesta opens with a procession bearing a statue of the Blessed Virgin known as La Conquistadora to the Cathedral of St. Francis. Revelry starts with the Thursday night burning of Zozobra, also known as "Old Man Gloom," a huge, animated figure whose demise at the hands of a torch-bearing dancer symbolizes the banishing of cares for the year. Prepare for BIG crowds - this event is not for the faint of heart and can be downright scary for small children! The crowning of a queen (La Reina) of the Fiesta and her consort, representing the Spanish nobleman, Don Diego de Vargas, who played a key role in the founding of the city, is a matter of great local import. Revelry continues through the weekend and features such events as the hilarious children's Pet Parade on Saturday morning and the Hysterical/Historical Parade on Sunday afternoon. A Fiesta Melodrama at the Community Playhouse effectively and pointedly pokes fun at city figures and events of the year past. The Fiesta closes with a solemn, candle-lit walk to the Cross of the Martyrs.
A few of the other festivities during the year, arranged in (usual) chronological order through the year, are:

• ArtFeast, Edible Art Gallery Tour

• Santa Fe Community Days

• Santa Fe Plaza Arts and Crafts Festivals

• Rodeo de Santa Fe

• Santa Fe Wine FestivalAt Rancho de las Golondrinas, taste and enjoy some of the finest wines in New Mexico in the beautiful outdoor setting of a living history museum

• Santa Fe International Folk Art MarketA huge gathering of folk artists from around the world showing their work on the Milner Plaza at Museum Hill.

• Summer Antiquities Show

• Santa Fe Jazz Festival

• Summer Spanish Market

• Santa Fe Chamber Music FestivalWith a series of internationally known musicians.

• Mountain Man Rendezvous

• Santa Fe Indian MarketThis annual mid-August event is the most significant Santa Fe festival for tourists and collectors. The entire downtown area is filled with vendors of American Indian arts and crafts, ranging from $10 tourist trinkets on up to breathtaking works of the highest quality. It advertises itself as the world's largest show for Native American artisans, and the description is probably accurate; an artisan who wins one of the top prizes in the juried competitions here is "made" as a significant folk art figure. Lodging is tight in town on Indian Market weekend, so if you're attending, make plans early—Indian Market weekend in 2008 is August 23–24.

• Thirsty Ear Music Festival

• Santa Fe Wine and Chile FiestaPairs wines from vintners around the world with the spicy foods for which Santa Fe is known. Winemakers' dinners, special tastings and the Grand Tasting on the Santa Fe Opera grounds make for a vintage weekend! This event is a sell-out for Santa Fe, so lodging is at a premium - reserve early.

• Santa Fe Film FestivalThe web site is usually updated in the fall to reflect the coming offerings.

• Winter Spanish Market

• Las PosadasA pre-Christmas commemoration of Mary's and Joseph's search for lodging taking place outdoors on the Plaza. This event takes place in mid December and is a truly unique experience. The audience "participates" in the play by holding candles and following Mary and Joseph in their search for lodging. El Diablo (the devil) appears on rooftops throughout the plaza and hurls insults at the crowd, which responds in kind. This is a wonderful family event.

• Farolito WalkA Christmas Eve walk around the historic areas of downtown Santa Fe, throughout which have been set farolitos, small brown bags filled with sand and a votive candle, to light the way for the Christ Child

• Winter Antiquities Show

In addition, many of the Native American pueblo communities nearby schedule dances and other ceremonies to celebrate specific feast days throughout the year that welcome tourists (along with a few that are for tribe members only).

Performing arts

Santa Fe is an important center for music and musical groups, the most illustrious being the Santa Fe Opera, although there are several other excellent venues in town.

• Santa Fe Opera

  phone: +1 505 986-5900
  address: 301 Opera Drive
  The opera house is partially "open air," so that opera goers get attractive views of the Jemez Mountains near Los Alamos as an additional backdrop to what's on stage. The Santa Fe Opera is known around the world for staging American and even world premieres of new works, the operas of Richard Strauss, and promising new artists on their way up (and, to be fair, one or two aging superstars each season who are on their way down, not up). Opera season is the summer, with opening night (tickets are almost impossible to get) usually around July 1 and the last performances in mid-August. (Bring a light jacket/wrap and an umbrella to the later performances; the open-air nature of the house can make August performances nippy and drippy, although seats are protected from the rain.) Many performances sell out well in advance, so book early. (KHFM radio, frequency 95.5 MHz, airs a "ticket exchange" that may be helpful in finding tickets to sold-out performances, if you find yourself in town on the spur of the moment during opera season; they stream their broadcast online, so you can check the ticket exchange even before you arrive.) People-watching here can be as much fun as the opera itself; you'll see folks in the most expensive formal wear sitting next to others in jeans, which is typical of Santa Fe. Dressing up at least a little from jeans is a good idea, though. Pre-performance "tailgate dinners" in the parking lot, as though you were attending a football game or such, are part of the tradition and color; you can bring your own, or see under "Eat/Other/Splurge" below.

• Center for Contemporary Arts

  phone: +1 505 982-1338
  address: 1050 Old Pecos Trail
  Mainly theater.

• GiG

  phone: +1 505 989-8442
  address: 1808 Second St
  A spinoff (they describe themselves as a "stepchild") of the Jazz Festival; coffee-house environment with jazz, folk music, etc.

• Greer Garson Theatre

  phone: +1 505 473-6511
  address: 1600 St. Michael's Dr
  On the campus of the Santa Fe University of Art and Design; visit the web site to see what's playing there. Comfortable, with good acoustics.

• James A. Little Theater

  address: 1060 Cerrillos Rd
  On the campus of the New Mexico School for the Deaf, remarkably enough.

• Lensic Performing Arts Center

  phone: +1 505 988-1234
  address: 225 W. San Francisco St
  Box-office. A converted movie theater with a pleasant atmosphere. As with most downtown sites, parking can be a pain, but there is a parking garage a block west that's usually OK in the evening.

• Paolo Soleri Theater

  phone: +1 505 989-6300
  address: 1501 Cerrillos Rd
  An outdoor amphitheater at the Santa Fe Indian School, popular for events in spring, summer and fall.

• St. Francis AuditoriumAt the New Mexico Museum of Art (see above).

• In addition, many churches host concerts of various kinds, among them St. Francis Cathedral and the Santuario de Guadalupe downtown, and the remarkable far out on the south side of town (11 College Avenue) extraordinary acoustics at the latter.

Some of the groups using these spaces are:

• Aspen Santa Fe BalletA professional ballet company that splits its time between Santa Fe and Aspen, Colorado. Three or four performances a year, usually at the Lensic.

• Juan Siddi Flamenco Theatre CompanySanta Fe's premier flamenco troupe performing six nights a week June through September.

• Musica Antigua de AlbuquerqueMany groups based in Albuquerque do performances in Santa Fe as well; this one specializes in music of the Middle Ages, Renaissance and Baroque, performed with period instruments as well as voices.

• Sangre de Cristo ChoraleOne of the best of the many "community-based" choral groups drawing on the enormous pool of skilled singers in northern New Mexico. Two repertoires per year (usually Christmas, with a well-regarded dinner concert, and spring), as well as special events throughout the year.

• Santa Fe Desert ChoraleFully professional choral music, with summer and winter programs, including works specifically commissioned for the ensemble.

• Santa Fe Pro MusicaChamber orchestra, multiple performances from September through April.

• Santa Fe Symphony and ChorusClassical and contemporary works performed September through May, including interpretive lectures and occasional youth concerts.

• Santa Fe Women's EnsembleA 12-voice choral group, performances Christmas and spring.

• Serenata of Santa FeYet another choral group with a September-to-May schedule.

There are others; if you hear one you like, add it.

Film

There are several movie theaters and art houses spread around the city that play Hollywood flicks as well some of the more off-beat movies. In addition to the year-round offerings, film enthusiasts should check out the Santa Fe Film Festival, held every year in early December.

• First-run Hollywood films can be seen at UA DeVargas Mall Cinema in the DeVargas Mall and at the on Cerrillos Road at Zafarano Drive (the later of which is newer and can screen 3D films).
• The Lensic Performing Arts Center (listed above) occasionally holds a screening in addition to their regular performing arts lineup.

• Jean Cocteau Cinema

  phone: +1 505 466-5528
  address: 418 Montezuma Ave
  Plays a mixture of Hollywood, classic, and indie films.

• Center for Contemporary ArtsAdjacent to the Armory for the Arts (listed above), plays a good selection of indie films and documentaries.

• The Screen

  phone: +1 505 473-6494
  address: 1600 St Michaels Dr
  Screens a selection of foreign, indie, and art house films.

• Violet Crown Cinema

  phone: +1 505 216-5678
  address: 1606 Alcaldesa St
  A brand new movie house which plays first-run Hollywood films. All seats are reserved (reserving online ahead of time is recommended) and there is a full-service restaurant and bar in the building, with the option of taking your food into the theater. Food is prepared on order, so if you want to eat while watching the movie, be sure to arrive well ahead of screening.

Outdoors

As one might expect from its location between mountain and desert, Santa Fe is rich in outdoor activities, particularly hiking, cycling, and horse riding. Most are slightly outside town itself and are covered in the "Get out" section and pages cited there, but there are a few in-town possibilities:

• There are a number of great trails around town:

• The is a good short walk, on a hill just northeast of Downtown. From Paseo de Peralta, the paved walkway ascends to the top of the hill, where a cross honoring the Spanish martyrs of New Mexico has been placed. Unfortunately, getting to the entrance to the trail involves uncomfortably close proximity to car traffic, as one has to walk along a narrow but extraordinarily busy street on very narrow sidewalks, but the view of Santa Fe makes it all worth it. , at 300 Kearney Ave, is just around the corner a short walk from the cross, and is an in-town (one really can't call it "urban") park suitable for a short hike to begin getting your cardiovascular system adjusted to the 7000-foot altitude.
• The Santa Fe River Park runs along the so-called Santa Fe River (it rarely has more than a trickle of water), with access convenient to the plaza area along Alameda Street, which cuts through the downtown area between the Plaza and the State Capitol. You'll share the path with myriad walkers, bikers, and some boarders and horse riders.
• The campus of , 1160 Camino Cruz Blanca, is the starting point for several hikes of lengths ranging from 2 to 7 miles, the latter being the ascent of Atalaya Mountain, one of the foothills of the Sangre de Cristos that rises just east of town. Park at the visitors' parking lot and choose your hike.
• A trail along the railroad to Lamy south of Santa Fe can be hiked, biked, and ridden on horseback. It is a nationally designated Rail with Trail, and plans are underway to further develop its trail facilities. It's paved from the Railyard to Rabbit Road (continuation of St. Francis Drive on the south side of I-25), continuing as a dirt path along the tracks to Lamy. Needless to say, keep an eye out for trains.

The Santa Fe National Forest covers the mountains east of town and offers abundant outdoor recreational opportunities. Ski Santa Fe is a short distance outside town, at the end of NM 475 (Hyde Park Road) in the high country of the forest (seriously high—even the base of the runs is above 10,000', so think carefully whether you want to go there if you have respiratory problems or are prone to altitude sickness). In addition to the obvious skiing, the lifts often operate during the summer, taking visitors to near the top of 12,000'-plus Tesuque Peak for great views. The road to the ski area goes through an aspen grove with spectacularly golden foliage (and hordes of people looking at the trees—don't expect privacy) in the fall, and several trails lead into the national forest from trailheads along the way. Some of the trails turn into interesting Nordic ski tracks in the winter.

Geocaching has become popular in Santa Fe, as might be expected from the general atmosphere of the city. The geocaching.com web site lists hundreds of caches in and near town, sufficient to keep even the most ardent cacher busy for a while. One caution: Santa Fe's reputation as a playground for the rich and famous has created a number of closed and gated neighborhoods, many of them quite intolerant of trespassers and aggressively patrolled. If your route to a cache leads you to a closed gate, take it seriously, and either look outside the perimeter for your quarry, or seek a different cache.

Horse riding is available at several stables on the west side of town, and at Bishops' Lodge (see below under Sleep). If you have your own horse, or contract with an outfitter, your choice of places to ride is enormous. Popular trail systems in the Santa Fe area include the Santa Fe National Forest, Pecos Wilderness, Caja del Rio, Cerrillos Hills Historical Park, and Pueblos (access requiring a permit). A little farther afield is Los Alamos, Valles Caldera National Preserve, and the Carson National Forest.

White-water rafting is excellent on the nearby Rio Grande and Rio Chama north of town, with trips ranging from easy half-day floats to taxing multi-day outings. Kokopelli Rafting Adventures, 551 W. Cordova Rd. #540, +1-800-879-9035, is one of several good outfitters operating out of Santa Fe; other good ones can be found along the road to and in Taos. Reservations are a must, particularly during peak season (usually June to early July).

If you're cycling, thorn-resistant tires and tubes are almost mandatory owing to the ubiquitous "goat's head," a weed whose seeds seem custom-made to puncture bike tires.

• Rob and Charlie's

  phone: +1 505 471-9119
  address: 1632 St. Michaels Drive
  A well-regarded bike shop. They have just about everything you'll need for riding in the area, including recommendations, but unfortunately, they don't have rental bikes.

• Mellow Velo

  phone: +1 505 995-8356
  address: 132 East Marcy St.
  For rentals. They also offer guided rides on some of the mountain-bike routes in the mountains.

Golf and other sports are less accessible in Santa Fe than in some other cities, as many of the golf courses are either private and reserved for residents of adjoining gated communities, or out of town at one of the nearby pueblos and in Los Alamos. Golf in Santa Fe is "challenging;" the altitude may tire you (although the thin air may also help the ball fly farther and straighter), and weather can interfere, with strong winds in the spring and afternoon thunderstorms in the summer. Still, Santa Fe is a great place to get outside, and that includes golf and other sporting activities.

• Santa Fe Country Club

  phone: +1 505 471-0601
  address: Country Club Road
  A "semi-private" course that welcomes the public and includes tennis courts; call for tee times.

• Marty Sanchez Links de Santa Fe

  phone: +1 505 955-4400
  address: 205 Caja del Rio Road
  The "municipal" course in town—well, almost in town, as it's off the Santa Fe Relief Route a good eight miles from the Plaza.

Genoveva Chavez Community Center

phone: +1 505-955-4000

address: 3221 Rodeo Rd

Contains three swimming pools, an ice rink, a gymnasium, and a fitness center.

Folk art

Santa Fe is a designated UNESCO Creative City and is one of the best places in the world to shop specifically for Native American Indian arts and crafts. How to proceed depends on what your goals are and how much you want to spend.
If your goal is jewelry, note that the price for turquoise stones has risen dramatically in the 21st century, as demand has risen at the same time that the mining of new stones has declined. Most new turquoise jewelry, and all of the inexpensive jewelry, uses "stabilized" turquoise, rather than the rarer types that are naturally hard enough and mined in the American Southwest. Gem-grade natural American turquoise can cost more than $100 per carat, and more than that for a choice piece from a favored mine, such as the world-famous Lander Blue turquoise mine in Nevada.

The place of choice for most travelers seeking Native folk art is the Native American artists who sell their own art on the "Portal" (accent on second syllable) in front of the Palace of the Governors. The jewelry, pottery, and other works are available for a reasonable price, you know that the money goes directly to the artist, and – unlike the many cheap shops around town that import Native-style objects that were made in Asia – the authenticity is guaranteed through a rigorous licensing system. Most artists are happy if you ask questions about the symbolism and materials used, but don't haggle over the prices here. The vendors rotate in and out on a lottery system, so there are some different sellers each day. Pickings may be a bit thin on Sundays, and the vendors leave after 5:30.
A word of warning: do not patronize the similar vendors on sidewalks out around town unless you know they're okay, or you don't care what you're buying. If they're not on the Portal, there's a reason, and one common reason is that they're passing off non-Indian junk as authentic. Some authentic local artisans may be off the Portal, but caveat emptor.
For higher-quality (and -priced) Native art, art galleries cluster around the Plaza. Some reputable ones (there are more) are:

• Allan Houser Gallery

  phone: +1 505 982-4705
  address: 125 Lincoln Ave. Suite 112
  Showcases sculptures, drawings, and paintings by Allan Houser. A sculpture garden south of Santa Fe with more work by Houser is open for tours.

• Andrea Fisher Fine Pottery

  phone: +1 505 986-1234
  address: 100 W. San Francisco
  Museum quality Native American pottery.

• Blue Rain Gallery

  phone: +1 505 954-9902
  address: 130 Lincoln Avenue, Suite D
  Specializing in contemporary Native American art, including pottery, paintings, glass sculpture, jewelry and mixed media.

• Lyn Fox Pueblo Pottery

  phone: +1 505 577-0835
  address: 640 Canyon Road
  Specializing in fine historic Pueblo pottery from the eight northern pueblos, including Native American clay pots, dough bowls, vases, olla pots, and storyteller pottery.

• Steve Elmore Indian Art

  phone: +1 505 995-9677
  address: 839 Paseo de Peralta, suite M
  Specializing in Native American antiques with an emphasis on historic Pueblo pottery, Navajo weavings, kachinas, and old pawn jewelry.

There are other good ones as well; if you find one that you think offers particularly good value for dollar, please expand this list. You can spend as little as $100 for a small piece, or spend more money than you have for something that's literally one-of-a-kind.

Other art

If you have any interest at all in "Anglo" art, make sure you walk down Canyon Road (an easy stroll from downtown), which is full of unique, quirky and just plain fun art galleries. Other galleries are west and south of the Plaza in the downtown area itself. A small sampling to give you a sense of what's there (opening hours at these can be somewhat erratic and are not always posted):

• Axle Contemporary

  phone: +1 505 670-5854
  address: variable locations and hours; check website for daily updates
  A mobile gallery of contemporary art, featuring works on paper and installation in a beautiful custom-retrofitted 1970 aluminum stepvan. Art by both established and emerging New Mexico-based artists.

• Chuck Jones Gallery

  phone: +1 505 983-5999
  address: 135 W. Palace Ave
  Amid the galleries featuring the scenic and cultural beauty of the Southwest and Native Americana, you can find this one featuring the "beauty" of ... Daffy Duck, Wile E. Coyote and the Roadrunner!? This gallery memorializes the great cartoon artist and his successors in animation art, with many originals. Not what you might think of as typical of the Santa Fe art scene, but highly entertaining.

• Gerald Peters Gallery

  phone: +1 505 954-5700
  address: 1011 Paseo de Peralta
  One of Santa Fe's "high-end" galleries, with works by some famous artists (Hurd, Remington, Miro, etc.), bearing six-digit price tags in some cases. If you're looking for inexpensive "souvenir" art, look elsewhere, but the serious art collector should definitely check this one out.

• Glenn Green Galleries

  phone: +1 505 820-0008
  address: 136 Tesuque Village Rd
  Established in 1966, 5 acre sculpture garden and gallery. Contemporary sculpture, paintings, prints and wall art by artists such as Allan Houser (whom the gallery represented from 1974-1994), Khang Pham-New, Eduardo Oropeza, Melanie Yazzie, etc.

• Klebau Photography Gallery

  phone: +1 505 954-4777
  address: 220 E. Santa Fe Ave
  The proprietor of this photography-oriented franchise is also deeply involved with Santa Fe's classical-music scene, and may be able to give you tips on what's playing if he's there (buying something doesn't hurt, of course).

• Manitou Galleries

  phone: +1 505 986-0440
  address: 123 W. Palace Ave
  One of the relatively few Santa Fe galleries open 7 days a week. Mid-range ($100 to $20,000) work, mainly with a Southwestern theme; nice bronzes.

• Mark White Fine Art

  phone: +1 505 982-2073
  address: 414 Canyon Rd
  Meditative wind sculptures. Inside the gallery you can view radiant and unique paintings on metal.

• Mill Fine Art

  phone: +1 505 982-9212
  address: 530 Canyon Rd
  Exhibiting primarily contemporary and minimalist artwork.

• Nedra Matteucci Galleries

  phone: +1 505 982-4631
  address: 1075 Paseo de Peralta
  A gallery by a well-known Santa Fe entrepreneur, with an emphasis on 19th- and 20th-century work, including a number of works from the art colony at Taos.

• Shidoni Foundry

  phone: +1 505 988-8001
  address: 1508 Bishops Lodge Rd
  8 acres of sculpture garden display the diverse and eclectic—some would say peculiar—work of the locally-celebrated Shidoni Foundry, along with furniture, ceramics, photography, etc.

• Waxlander Gallery and Sculpture Garden

  phone: +1 505 984-2202
  address: 622 Canyon Rd
  Contemporary artists led by Phyllis Kapp.

• William R. Talbot Fine Art

  phone: +1 505 982-1559
  address: 129 W. San Francisco St
  Historic maps, regionalist prints and paintings.

• Winterowd Fine Art

  phone: +1 505 992-8878
  address: 701 Canyon Rd
  A reasonable (if comparatively conservative) example of the many Canyon Road galleries; friendly and helpful service.

This listing barely scratches the surface of the art scene in Santa Fe; the community phone book lists over six pages of galleries. There are some tourist traps among them, but far more good stuff than tourist junk.

Other goods

• In downtown Santa Fe there are quite a few specialty stores for toys, book stores, clothes and a variety of other stores with handmade goods such as purses and jewelry.
• On the south side of the city there is an at the intersection of I-25 and Cerrillos Road and a large gathering of newer, big-box stores like Best Buy and Target on Zafarano Road near Cerrillos and Rodeo Roads, across the road from the enclosed mall. A second (and slightly smaller) enclosed mall, the DeVargas Center, is at Paseo de Peralta and Guadalupe, just north of the downtown area. Within the downtown area proper is the , a partially-enclosed mall with mostly upscale shops, anchored by a Cost Plus World Market.

Santa Fe, and the rest of New Mexico, is known for its huge and spicy plates full of Southwestern food. Restaurants in Santa Fe run from expensive haute Southwestern to down-home fast-food style plates, where you will be asked "red or green" (chile). You can try a mix of both red and green chile peppers by asking for your dish "Christmas". However, Santa Fe also has a number of excellent restaurants offering other cuisines—possibly too many of them, in fact, as the highly competitive marketplace forces even some very good ones out of business before their time. It is almost impossible to overstate the dining possibilities here; they far outstrip those in most American cities ten times Santa Fe's size. As with several other New Mexico towns, restaurants in this description are broken into the sub-categories "New Mexican" (which is not the same as "Mexican" by any means) and "Other." Meals (exclusive of drinks and tips) will usually cost $10/person or less at the "Budget" places, $10 to $25 at the "Mid-range" ones, and more—sometimes much more—at the "Splurges." Many Santa Fe restaurants are somewhat casual as regards business hours; if a place doesn't have hours listed below, inquire locally as to when it's open, as the hours may change erratically.

• Santa Fe Farmers Market

  phone: +1 505 983-4098
  address: 1607 Paseo de Peralta
  The Santa Fe Farmers Market represents over 100 active vendors and features hundreds of different agricultural products. To further meet Santa Fe's demand for fresh, local produce, the Market began operating year-round in 2002, and with more and more farmers using extended growing techniques, the "off season" becomes more successful every year.

New Mexican

There are so many good New Mexican restaurants in town that a description here can barely scratch the surface. Half of the writers on New Mexican food claim that green chile is hotter than red, while half claim it's the other way around. In reality, the best authority on the spiciness of the chile at the particular restaurant you eat at is the restaurant itself, so if you're concerned about the chile being too hot, simply ask; you'll get a straight answer far more often than not. One thing that's definitely true, however, is that green tends to be fleshier than red, and adds a bit more substance to the dish, independent of the heat level.

Budget

• Five and Dime

  phone: +1 505 992-1800
  address: 58 E San Francisco St
  The former Woolworths on the Plaza was said to be the birthplace of the "Frito Pie"; it has since been replaced by the Five and Dime. The original chef is purported to still serve them there. The Frito Pie consists of a bag of Fritos corn chips topped by meaty red chile and cheddar cheese, with onions and jalapeños as a garnish, served in the original Frito bag.

• The Shed

  phone: +1 505 982-9030
  address: 113½ E Palace Ave
  The quintessential New Mexican lunch spot. "Traditional" New Mexican food (enchiladas, stuffed sopaipillas, etc.) in a rustic setting.

• La Choza

  address: 905 Alarid St.
  Sister restaurant of The Shed. It is open evenings and is on an obscure side street close to the main drag of St. Francis Drive, well outside the downtown area. Serves "traditional" New Mexican food (enchiladas, stuffed sopaipillas, etc.) in a rustic setting. Reservations are recommended. Lunch entrees from $7 or so, dinners from $9.

• Felipe's Tacos

  phone: +1 505 473-9397
  address: 1711 Llano St
  Huge burritos, tacos and very, very authentic Mexican food for as little as two dollars. It's a few blocks from Santa Fe High, so after school can be a little crowded, but it's worth the wait.

• Posa's El Merendero

  phone: +1 505 820-7672
  address: 1514 Rodeo Rd (secondary location at 3538 Zafarano Dr
  This is primarily a catering/retail-sales outfit (delivery throughout town, sometimes delivering very large orders, and by parcel) of long standing and good reputation, but has opened two fast-food-style outlets for their wares. It's definitely not fine dining, but a reasonable representative of basic New Mexican fare for those in a hurry. Entrees $5-10.

• Plaza Cafe

  phone: +1 505 982-1664
  address: 54 Lincoln Ave
  An old standby a stone's throw from the vendors on the Portal. Open for all meals, but particularly recommended for lunch, although it's crowded.

• Tia Sophia's

  phone: +1 505 983-9880
  address: 210 W San Francisco St
  Breakfast and lunch daily; much loved by locals for breakfast.

• Tortilla Flats

  phone: +1 505 471-8685
  address: 3139 Cerrillos Rd
  A well known New Mexican establishment with typical Santa Fe fare. Frequented by many locals, another great stopping point for a quick meal or a casual dinner.

Mid-range

• Tomasita's

  phone: +1 505 983-5721
  address: 500 S Guadalupe St
  Considered by many to serve the definitive "traditional" New Mexican food. Expect to wait, as it's enormously popular. Entrees around $9–11, but splurge a little and get the sangria too.

• Blue Corn Cafe

  phone: +1 505 984-1800
  address: 133 Water St (secondary location at 4056 Cerrillos Rd)
  A curious combination of New Mexican cuisine and a microbrewery.

• Maria's New Mexican Kitchen

  phone: +1 505 983-7929
  address: 555 W Cordova Rd
  Margaritas are a specialty here, but the traditional New Mexican cuisine is also good, if a bit heavier than at Tomasita's. Parking, though ample, is a pain to get to; approach from the east, on Camino de los Marquez rather than Cordova.

• Tabla de Los Santos

  phone: +1 505 992-6354
  address: 210 Don Gaspar Ave
  New Mexican cuisine with great tasting pork chops and chile rellenos. Great views of the Plaza.

Splurge

• La Casa Sena

  phone: +1 505 988-9232
  address: 125 E Palace Ave
  An example of "Southwestern" cuisine—the merging of traditional New Mexican preparation and presentation with more modern, creative ingredients (sometimes a little too creative). Reservations recommended.

• Coyote Cafe

  phone: +1 505 983-1615
  address: 132 W Water St
  Another highly-regarded "Southwestern" dining experience, although there has been a recent tendency for chef Mark Miller, (however Mark Miller sold the Restaurant to a group of employees); to use his restaurant to engage in puffery on behalf of his big-city franchises elsewhere. It's still an excellent restaurant, if an expensive one -- $50 per person for dinner, including wine/dessert and tip, is not unusual. Reservations recommended.

• Luminaria

  phone: +1 505 984-7915
  address: 211 Old Santa Fe Trail
  Enjoy views of the Loretto Chapel and Old Santa Fe trail while dining.

Other

Santa Fe has plenty of standard chain restaurants (Olive Garden, Outback, Red Lobster, etc.), but why bother? There are enough excellent "local" ones that you can save your trips to these more ubiquitous eateries for cities less well-endowed from a culinary point of view. All restaurants below are uniquely Santa Fean in their character and cuisine.

Budget

• Chopstix

  phone: +1 505 820-2126
  address: 238 N Guadalupe St
  A fast-food, take-out or dine-in Chinese restaurant. Built into an old gas station, it looks like the kind of place that you should stay a mile away from, and that's what makes it so good.

• Pantry Restaurant

  phone: +1 505 986-0022
  address: 1820 Cerrillos Rd
  Delicious food served in a diner-type setting. The waitstaff are super friendly, and the portions are humongous. The customers fill the small front quickly in the mornings, but seats are often available at the bar (which serves delicious milkshakes, even before noon).

• Pyramid Cafe

  phone: +1 505 989-1378
  address: 505 W. Cordova Rd
  Good Greek/Mediterranean lunches. Nothing fancy, just good, casual food. Don't bother with reservations, but call to check on hours. Lunches from $5 or so; occasional belly-dancing entertainment. Now also open in Los Alamos if your travels take you in that direction.

• Santa Fe Baking Company

  phone: +1 505 988-4292
  address: 504 W. Cordova Rd
  Across Cordova Road from Pyramid and offers tolerable sandwiches, soups, etc., for lunch, but don't go just for the lunch (or breakfast); grab a dessert while you're there, these being what it's known for. Can be very busy at lunchtime on weekdays, with chaos on all quarters. Call-in orders welcome.

• Santa Fe Bite

  phone: +1 505 982-0544
  address: 311 Old Santa Fe Trail
  Inside of Garrett's Desert Inn. Known for their green chile cheeseburgers.

• Tune-Up Cafe

  phone: +1 505 983-7060
  address: 1115 Hickox St
  Occupies the space formerly "Dave's Not Here." Local hangout featuring the owners' Guatemalan cuisine with a New Mexican flavor. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The location, near the main St. Francis Drive artery, is more convenient for the through traveler than to downtown.

• Upper Crust Pizza

  phone: +1 505 982-0000
  address: 329 Old Santa Fe Trail
  Widely considered to serve the best (American-style) pizza in town. Free delivery, but if practical, consider dining in instead; Old Santa Fe Trail is one of the main tourist drags, and you get a chance to combine pizza munching with people watching.

• Whole Hog Cafe

  phone: +1 505 474-3375
  address: 320 S. Guadalupe
  A barbecue chain centered in Arkansas and Louisiana, but with two New Mexico outlets (the other is in Albuquerque); fast-food-meets-steakhouse format, but the BBQ is high-quality by any standards. Try the "Volcano" BBQ sauce (you'll have to ask for it at the counter) and see if it's hotter than the New Mexican cuisine elsewhere in town. If it blows you away, sauce #3 also has some kick and is tasty. Lunches (handy as it's in the pandemonious Cerrillos Road shopping area) from $5.05.

Mid-range

• Cowgirl BBQ

  phone: +1 505 982-2565
  address: 319 S. Guadalupe
  Santa Fe mainstay where tourists and locals alike flock for some semblance of nightlife in Santa Fe. Decent food, 4 red pool tables ($12/hour, 7'), decent prices, and live music every night, except Mondays- Karaoke. The BBQ ain't bad, either.

• India Palace

  phone: +1 505 986-5859
  address: 227 Don Gaspar Ave

• India House

  phone: +1 505 471-2304
  address: 2501 Cerrillos Road
  Surprisingly excellent Indian cuisine, operated by the same family as India Palace, with essentially identical menus. India Palace is more "atmospheric," India House more convenient (better parking), and the sag paneer at both is to die for. India House may have entertainment for some dinners.

• Marisco's La Playa

  phone: +1 505 982-2790
  address: 537 W. Cordova Rd
  An example of the difference between "Mexican" and "New Mexican" cuisine; this restaurant definitely serves the former, with an emphasis on seafood prepared as in Old Mexico. (You definitely won't find the Pulpo—octopus—dishes on the menu at their New Mexican counterparts!) Nothing special as regards ambience/presentation, but good, authentic food.

• Mu Du Noodles

  phone: +1 505 983-1411
  address: 1494 Cerrillos Rd
  Features noodle/pasta dishes from around the world, but most of the dishes are from China or Southeast Asia. Parking can be a challenge. Ambitious cuisine for New Mexico, although perhaps equally ambitiously priced.

• Pasqual's

  phone: +1 505 983-9340
  address: 121 Don Gaspar
  An old standby in the downtown area. As with many Santa Fe restaurants, the menu blends New Mexican cuisine with more traditional American fare. Reservations recommended for dinner, which approaches "Splurge" territory, and recommended particularly for breakfast, when it's far better value for dollar than the restaurants at the several nearby hotels.

• Pink Adobe

  phone: +1 505 983-7712
  address: 406 Old Santa Fe Trail
  A long-time Santa Fe standard, near the downtown area. A mix of continental and New Mexican cuisine that borders on "Splurge" territory.

• Pranzo Italian Grill

  phone: +1 505 984-2645
  address: 540 Montezuma Ave
  May be the best Italian restaurant in town. Reservations advisable. Expect it to be loud.

• Wok

  phone: +1 505 424-8126
  address: 2860 Cerrillos Rd
  Chinese food is a weakness (at least relatively speaking) in Santa Fe, but this unpretentious place has some supporters.

Splurge

• 315

  phone: +1 505 986-9190
  address: 315 Old Santa Fe Trail
  A restaurant whose name is also its street number. Reservations advised. French/Continental cuisine in a sidewalk-bistro-like setting. Good wine list, and save room for the crème brûlée dessert. You can easily drop $50 a person here and feel good about it.

• The Compound

  phone: +1 505 982-4353
  address: 653 Canyon Rd
  On Canyon Road near the art galleries. Although the Compound once enforced a dress code of jacket and tie, new chef/owner Mark Kiffin eliminated any formal dress requirement. Southwestern cuisine.

• Geronimo

  phone: +1 505 982-1500
  address: 724 Canyon Rd
  Another fine restaurant amid the galleries. The menu tends toward Continental but is entertainingly diverse and changes frequently. Dinner reservations are recommended and can be placed via the (unnecessarily ostentatious) web site.

• El Mesón

  phone: +1 505 983-6756
  address: 213 Washington Ave
  Spanish cuisine, well prepared and attentively served; the paella is excellent. Diners used to sangria New Mexico-style may find this restaurant's version a bit dry. Live entertainment most evenings.

• The Old House Restaurant

  phone: +1 505 995-4530
  address: 309 W. San Francisco
  AAA Four Diamond restaurant that Zagat honored as New Mexico’s best. Contemporary global cuisine featuring seasonal and regional ingredients, with Southwestern and Asian influences and a great wine selection.

• Osteria d`Assisi

  phone: +1 505 986-5858
  address: 58 S. Federal Pl
  If Pranzo (above) isn't the best Italian restaurant in town, this one may be. Prices range from about $10–12 for a simple Neapolitan-style pizza to $70 or more for a grand 5-course dinner with wine (come hungry and expect to leave full), or anything in between.

• Santacafe

  phone: +1 505 984-1788
  address: 231 Washington Ave
  One of Santa Fe's big-name restaurants, and you probably pay a little extra for the celebrity, but the American/Continental fare is creative and well presented, with attentive service. Excellent matchbooks, too.

Two of the ubiquitous alcoholic beverages in Santa Fe are the familiar margarita and the possibly-less-familiar sangria, a wine-based concoction incorporating fruit, more commonly associated with Spain and Central America. Most of the better New Mexican restaurants in town have their own house sangria; it goes well with New Mexican cuisine, and is claimed by some to be a useful antidote if the spicy food gets the better of you. It's considered much more of a day-to-day beverage here than in many other places. The high altitude may increase sensitivity to alcohol.
Much of the beer consumed in the community is imported from Mexico, and there are also a few microbreweries. If you're sticking with non-alcoholic beverages, a tip: Many locals advise against having soft drinks with New Mexican food, instead preferring iced tea. This preference is based on the belief that carbonation in drinks (including beer) tends to accentuate the spiciness of the chile peppers and cause the spicy component to hang around in the throat, while iced tea mutes it. Do the experiment, or at least have your designated driver do it.

• Secreto Lounge

  phone: +1 505 983-5700
  address: 210 Don Gaspar Ave
  One of the best places for people-watching in all of Santa Fe. The crowd tends to be more sedate here than at some other places. Two great guys to look for here, Daniel and Chris, both award winning mixologists.

• Inn on the Alameda

  phone: +1 505 984-2121
  address: 303 E Alameda St
  Included in its rates is an afternoon wine and cheese reception, and with its location at the base of Canyon Road, it offers an easy way to relax after a day of gallery-hopping.

• Second Street Brewery

  phone: +1 505 982-3030
  address: 1814 2nd St
  Brewpub, with live music most evenings Thursday-Sunday and art exhibits (this is Santa Fe, after all) at other times. They've been fined in the past by the state of New Mexico for permitting consumption of alcohol off grounds, so they may be sticklers for keeping your drink on-site. There's also a secondary location, , at 1607 Paseo de Peralta #10 (behind the Farmer's Market).
• Changes in New Mexico laws during the 1990s led to the development of casinos at a number of nearby American Indian pueblos. The closest to Santa Fe are along US 285 on the way to Pojoaque. Big-name acts occasionally appear and liven up the night life, although you're as likely to catch a falling star on his/her way down-and-out as a current, lively act. The two listed here may run shuttle services connecting to the major in-town hotels; inquire locally as to availability.

• Camel Rock Casino

  address: US 84/285

• Cities of Gold

  phone: +1 505 455-3313
  address: US 84/285

Several of the local-style bars can be found on Cerrillos Road and St. Michaels Drive, if you'd prefer to avoid the touristy places. Warning: some of these can get rowdy, and DUI is a problem in the area as well.

Most Santa Fe hotels, motels and B&Bs are in one of two areas: downtown (near the Palace of the Governors and Plaza) or on Cerrillos Road, the commercial main drag. The distance of the Cerrillos Road hotels from the downtown attractions isn't significant from a purely physical point of view; the most distant ones (near Villa Linda Mall) are still within a couple miles of the downtown area, which can be reached quickly by car or shuttle bus. However, the atmospheric distance is enormous. Downtown has the fabled Santa Fe ambience of a sleepy old Western village frozen in time and transported to the 21st century (with, of course, a few modern amenities and nuisances added, like cars), while Cerrillos Road has the "ambience" of a shopping district in a suburb of a major city. In compensation, hotels on Cerrillos Road tend to be less expensive on an amenity-for-amenity basis. When deciding where to stay in Santa Fe, give particular thought to the balance of ambience and economy that fits your needs.
"Budget" lodging (if any) will start at less than $75 a night, "Mid-range" from $75 to $150, and "Splurge" greater than $150, with some of the luxury suites, etc., ranging far upward. A warning on the "Budget" and "Mid-range" classifications: Santa Fe hotels and motels are prone to very substantial seasonal variations in availability and price. A hotel that may look like "Mid-range" during off season (spring, fall exclusive of the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta week, usually in early October) may be "Splurge" material during ski season and the summer, particularly around significant events such as the Santa Fe Indian Market, Fiesta, opening weekend of the Santa Fe Opera, etc. Of course, the converse is true as well, meaning you can stay at a "Splurge" hotel in the off-season months of November through February at a really low price. Check carefully on rates when booking; most of the more important hotels/motels have informative web pages, and better hotels should give you the best price themselves, instead of letting discounters underprice them.

Budget

Budget hotels and motels in Santa Fe are few and far between. The economy-rate chains all have franchises in town, but it's not clear that most can really be considered "budget" lodging. Try one and write it up here.

• Comfort Suites Santa Fe

  phone: +1 505 473-9004
  address: 3348 Cerrillos Rd
  An entirely non-smoking hotel. Complimentary breakfast buffet.

• Holiday Inn Express Cerrillos

  phone: +1 505 474-7570
  address: 3450 Cerrillos Rd
  This one is a long way from downtown, and the "ambience" of Cerrillos Road is nothing to write home about, yet not bad.

• Santa Fe International Hostel

  phone: +1 505 988-1153
  address: 1412 Cerrillos Rd
  An independently owned, traditional hostel and boarding house offering dormitory accommodations and private rooms. It has been around for several decades and is still going strong. Offers a lot of free food, well beyond a continental breakfast, pay phones, laundry facilities, maps, a lounge, and internet use (for an additional daily fee).

• Santa Fe Sage Inn

  phone: +1 505 982-5952
  address: 725 Cerrillos Rd
  A no-frills "motor lodge" with surprisingly quiet and comfortable rooms given the low rates. Closer to the downtown attractions than other Cerrillos Road lodging.

Mid-range

There are a number of bed and breakfast establishments beyond the ones shown here. Rates vary not only seasonally but also with the room, as each establishment will have a range of room sizes and accommodations; larger and more luxurious rooms are likely to reach the "Splurge" category. In addition to B&Bs, one can also rent furnished homes, large or small ("casitas") which allows you to prepare at least some of your own meals, and enjoy a little more space, both indoors and outdoors. Here are a couple of agencies, followed by classic bed & breakfast choices.

• Alexander's Inn

  phone: +1 505 986-1431
  address: 529 E Palace Ave
  Vacation rentals in the downtown area.

• AQUI Santa Fe Luxury Vacation Rentals

  phone: +1 505 984-8885
  address: 17 Bishop's Lodge Trail
  A small but select group of luxuriously furnished and equipped houses and casitas, some with art collections, all with gourmet kitchens, Frette bedding, fireplaces, patios or gardens.

• Casa Cuma Bed & Breakfast

  phone: +1 505 216-7516
  address: 105 Paseo de la Cuma
  Nice B&B with mountain views, full hot gourmet breakfast and just 4 blocks to the Plaza.

• Pueblo Bonito Inn

  phone: +1 505 984-8001
  address: 138 W Manhattan Ave
  Secluded behind its thick adobe walls, Pueblo Bonito Inn is a true historic bed and breakfast.

• Zona Rosa Suites

  phone: +1 505 988-4455
  address: 429 W San Francisco St
  One, two and three-bedroom suites, each appointed with a Kiva fireplace, saltillo tile floors, and viga ceilings.

• Dunshee's B&B

  phone: +1 505 982-0988
  address: 986 Acequia Madre
  A small bed and breakfast near the Canyon Road art district.

• El Farolito Bed and Breakfast

  phone: +1 505 988-1631
  address: 514 Galisteo St
  Within easy walking distance of downtown and the Plaza. Authentically furnished casitas and great gourmet breakfasts -- the chicken-and-apple-sausage quiche is worth the trip in and of itself.

• El Paradero Bed and Breakfast Inn

  phone: +1 505 988-1177
  address: 220 W Manhattan Ave
  On a quiet downtown side street. Gourmet breakfasts and afternoon teas.

• Casa Del Toro Santa Fe Bed and Breakfast

  phone: +1 505 715-6861
  address: 229 McKenzie St
  A compound of adobe cottages. Hot breakfast served every morning.

• Santa Fe Motel & Inn

  phone: +1 505 982-1039
  address: 510 Cerrillos Rd
  Near the Railyard District. Complimentary hot breakfast, free wireless.

Most major hotel chains have franchises in Santa Fe, mainly outside the main tourist areas. A few are removed from downtown on Cerrillos Road, hence have better value-for-dollar if you don't mind the distance:

• Hampton Inn

  phone: +1 505 474-3900
  address: 3625 Cerrillos Rd
  Notable for accepting (attended) pets.

• Quality Inn

  phone: +1 505 471-1211
  address: 3011 Cerrillos Rd
  They claim to offer free transportation to the train station, which is no small distance away. Check it out.

There are many others on Cerrillos Road; non-chain options include:

• Inn at Santa Fe

  phone: +1 505 474-9500
  address: 8376 Cerrillos Rd

Several of the classic downtown hotels/lodges approach "Splurge" status, particularly during peak periods, both for their locations and their quality, but a splurge is frequently worth the expense for those who want an authentic Santa Fe experience. A couple of the more reasonably priced ones:

• Don Gaspar Inn

  phone: +1 505 986-8664
  address: 623 Don Gaspar Ave
  A short walk to the Plaza, galleries, spas, unique shops, and wonderful restaurants. The gardens and courtyards surround the three houses that comprise the Inn and cover half the block. The Inn offers 10 spacious suites and rooms.

• Inn on the Alameda

  phone: +1 505 984-2121
  address: 303 E Alameda St
  As the closest hotel to the art galleries of Canyon Road, the Inn offers an ideal location for exploring all the attractions of the Santa Fe Plaza area, with its setting at the edge of one of the city's nicest residential areas. resulting in a more peaceful hotel stay. Spread across three acres, this is downtown Santa Fe's most value-added property, with a lavish complimentary continental breakfast and afternoon wine and cheese reception served daily, free parking and wi-fi access, and parking and local and toll-free calls all at no charge. Two pets under 100 pounds are accepted in dedicated pet rooms with a non-refundable nightly deposit.

• Hotel Santa Fe

  phone: +1 505 982-1200
  address: 1501 Paseo de Peralta
  A little more distant from the Plaza than some of the others, hence a little less expensive, and still within comfortable walking distance of most of the good stuff.

• Hilton Santa Fe

  phone: +1 505 988-2811
  address: 100 Sandoval St
  An old standard, one of the few downtown hotels that doesn't raise its rates during the tourist season. No longer an "elegant" hotel, but not bad at all. A great place for conferences too.

• Hotel St. Francis

  phone: +1 505 983-5700
  address: 210 Don Gaspar Ave
  Atmospheric, and close to the downtown attractions. Good, if sedate, people-watching at the bar (see under "Drink"). On the National Registry of Historic Places. Reflects a Franciscan Missionary style.

• Lodge at Santa Fe

  phone: +1 505 992-5800
  address: 750 N St. Francis Dr
  Just north of the city but only 3-5 minutes from the Plaza. Every summer they feature the Juan Siddi Flamenco Theatre Company live performances. Complimentary shuttle downtown, an onsite restaurant, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, complimentary Wi-Fi, and event spaces.

Splurge

• Bishop's Lodge Resort

  phone: +1 505 983-6377
  address: 1297 Bishop's Lodge Road
  Closed for renovations until 2019. A full-service resort in the beautiful Tesuque Valley features horseback riding, spa, tennis courts, summer children's programs,and more in a peaceful setting away from the hubbub of the Plaza, but not so far away as to be inconvenient. Complimentary shuttle to and from the Plaza.

• Eldorado Hotel & Spa

  phone: +1 505 988-4455
  address: 309 W San Francisco St
  A large and spectacular property convenient to the downtown attractions. Rooms are well done and atmospheric. The Old House restaurant was honored as Zagat's top pick for dining in New Mexico. Lively lounge with frequent live entertainment, and many amenities. Nidah Spa is in the hotel.

• Inn and Spa at Loretto

  phone: +1 505 988-5531
  address: 211 Old Santa Fe Trail
  Art galleries and a full service day spa, in addition to the lodging.

• Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi

  phone: +1 505 988-3030
  address: 113 Washington Ave
  This four-star Santa Fe luxury hotel offers fine dining, a business center, and Southwestern style boutique accommodations.

• La Fonda Hotel

  phone: +1 505 982-5511
  address: 100 E San Francisco St
  The quintessential Santa Fe hotel, with the Plaza on one corner, beautiful Saint Francis Cathedral across the street, and several interesting and not-too-touristy shops on the premises. They have their own parking garage, no small advantage in the downtown area.

• La Posada de Santa Fe, a Tribute Portfolio Resort & Spa

  phone: +1 505 986-0000
  address: 330 E Palace Ave
  157-room boutique resort and full-service spa offering adobe-style rooms and suites, many with fireplaces and patios. Downtown and two blocks from the historic Plaza, art galleries, and shopping.

Camping

There are several commercial campgrounds in town (, , , ), but the camping is much more rewarding along the road to the Santa Fe Ski Basin. There are several campgrounds in Santa Fe National Forest on this road, and there is also good camping at the very pretty between forest and city. If you're planning on using the national-forest or Hyde Park campsites, make sure you have enough clothing and bedding to stay warm; they're in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and get cold at night.

Santa Fe is a fairly safe city as regards violent crime, despite the widely publicized occurrence of occasional hate crimes. In reality, the crime rate, with the exception of residential burglary (a definite problem in town but one unlikely to affect the traveler), is not high compared to other American communities of comparable size, and the visitor is very unlikely to have any crime-related problems. Some of the bars can get a little rough, with ethnic tensions frequently a factor despite the city's multicultural nature; simply don't stir up trouble and you should be OK. Otherwise, public areas are generally quite safe, and are well yet unobtrusively patrolled by the city police.
Much more of a problem is automobile safety, for several reasons. Many of the roads were built during a slower-paced, less-populous time, and lack the carrying capacity for the current crowds. Northern New Mexico has serious problems with drunk driving, and Santa Fe is not exempt from these, particularly late at night. Another factor is an inexplicably high density of bad drivers and/or decrepit vehicles with poorly secured cargo; natives often speak of having a "New Mexico moment" when something falls off the back of a pickup or trailer and into the roadway in front of an unsuspecting driver. This is a good place to practice your defensive driving, particularly along St. Francis Drive and Cerrillos Road (the intersection of these two has been voted the most dangerous intersection in all of New Mexico). Running red lights is one of the state pastimes, and reaches its zenith in Santa Fe; be extremely vigilant when pulling away from an intersection when the light changes. On the positive side, most motorists are fairly tolerant (if not always aware) of pedestrians and bicyclists.
Finally, be alert for signs of health problems associated with high altitude, particularly if you venture out of town toward the mountains. The most common problems are headache and/or feeling tired may occur, drinking more water or going to lower altitude may help (a trip down La Bajada to the reservoir will usually do it). Also pay attention during hikes and bike rides, remember you are at 7,000 feet—sunscreen is important, even in the winter. The dryness of the air combined with physical exertion will often leave you not sweating through your clothes even if it's 85 degrees out, and many people won't realize they are working hard without that. Dehydration is a common issue for visitors—bring more water than you might otherwise. Some visitors report increased sensitivity to alcohol due to the altitude.

Santa Fe Baking Company and Pyramid Cafe (see above under Eat) also claim to offer free wireless access. Most of the major hotels offer wideband service to guests.

• Java Joe's. Coffeehouse first, Internet cafe second.

• Java Joe's Southside

  phone: +1 505 474-5282
  address: 2801 Rodeo Road

• Java Joe's Siler

  phone: +1 505 930-5763
  address: 1248 SiLER Road

• Ten Thousand Waves Japanese Spa and Resort

  phone: +1 505 982-9304
  address: 3451 Hyde Park Rd
  A Japanese bathhouse with communal and private hot tubs, body wraps, several schools of massage, facials, etc., that can feel incredibly good after a day of skiing. Reservations strongly recommended, and mandatory if you're getting a massage or comparable treatments. Mainly a "day spa," but there are a small number of rooms for overnight stays, in the "Mid-range" to "Splurge" class.

• The Spa at Loretto

  phone: +1 505 984-7997
  address: 211 Old Santa Fe Trail
  Full-service day spa at the Inn at Loretto.

• Tone

  phone: +1 505 989-8552
  address: 901 W. San Mateo Rd
  Advertises itself as "Body and Face for Women;" more massage, facials, etc. Several of the hotels in town also offer spa services.
• More pedestrian resources for the traveler (laundromats, grocery stores, auto repair shops, etc.) tend to congregate along St. Francis Drive, St. Michaels Drive and Cerrillos Road. If you look for these services downtown (Plaza area), you'll pay extra for them without getting anything special in terms of goods and services; get away from the glamour district and save some money.

• SpaNomad

  phone: +1 505 490-0591
  A mobile massage service featuring Indian head massage, Hawaiian lomi lomi, Thai massage, body wraps and several other styles of massage in your own hotel or vacation rental. Mainly a "traveling spa," but SpaNomad also has trainings in Indian head massage and provides massage at several local events.

Native Americana

One of the major contributors to Santa Fe's fame is the large number of American Indian Pueblos (towns) nearby. Several are important centers for folk art; most permit visitors at dances and other tribal ceremonial events; and from a more contemporary perspective, several host casinos with gambling, night life, etc. There are also, however, some pueblos that jealously guard the privacy of their residents and admit visitors only grudgingly, if at all. Nearly all pueblos charge a fee for photography, video, sketching, etc., as an attempt to mitigate the impact of tourism on the private life of the inhabitants. For more detailed info on each pueblo, see the New Mexico Pueblos page.
Among the nearby pueblos, Cochiti Pueblo and Santo Domingo Pueblo are southwest of town off I-25, both centers of folk art, with Santo Domingo excellent for pottery and jewelry. North of town, there are a couple of pueblos along US 84/285; Tesuque is the closest to Santa Fe and has a casino, but the pueblo itself is closed to the public. Continuing north takes you to Pojoaque, which has an interesting museum and gaudy casino. Further beyond off the main road is Nambe Pueblo, which has a pleasant campground and waterfall, while San Ildefonso Pueblo is off the main road to Los Alamos and is a major pottery center. More pueblos are in the vicinity of Española and Taos even further north.

Other

• Taos, known for its art colony, the iconic Taos Pueblo, as well as a superb downhill ski area, is about a two hour drive north of Santa Fe. The trip up is quite scenic, with a couple excellent drives possible; see the North Central New Mexico page for detailed directions.
• Pecos is a small town about 20 miles east of Santa Fe just off I-25, and is the home of the Pecos National Historic Park, a small NPS site that preserves the ruins of an abandoned Indian pueblo and Spanish mission from the 17th century, as well as the Glorieta Pass Battlefield, site of a major Civil War battle in the West.
• Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument is just south of town near Cochiti Lake in the central region, and is covered in that region's article. Many guidebooks of the area omit this little gem, which is open for day use ($5/vehicle) and includes a trail through a short but spectacular bit of slot canyon. Highly recommended for the hiker with half a day to spend.
• A trip to Los Alamos and nearby Bandelier National Monument is a great excursion from Santa Fe. If you want to make a day of it, you can continue on into the Jemez Mountains and Valles Caldera National Preserve (plan ahead, as the Preserve's more interesting activities require advance reservations).
• If you're not tired of the art scene by the time you leave, head south on SR 14 to Madrid, an old mining town turned art colony, significantly lower-key than Santa Fe itself. Albuquerque lies beyond, with its own attractions; getting to Albuquerque via SR 14 is slower than the direct route on I-25, but compensates with far reduced traffic and nice scenery.