Sarajevo

History

Sarajevo is one of the most historically interesting and varied cities in Europe. It is a place where the Western and Eastern Roman Empire split; where the people of the Roman Catholic west, Eastern Orthodox east and the Ottoman south, met, lived and warred. It is both an example of historical turbulence and the clash of civilizations, as well as a beacon of hope for peace through multicultural tolerance. The city is traditionally famous for its religious diversity, with Muslims, Orthodox Christians, Catholics, and Jews coexisting here for centuries. Additionally, the city's vast historic diversity is strongly reflected in its architecture. Parts of the city have a very Western-European look, while other parts of the city, often blocks away, have a completely distinct Ottoman feel. It is truly the city where east meets west.
Some important events in Sarajevo's history include the 1914 assassination of Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which led to World War I, and the 1984 Winter Olympics.
The city has physically recovered from most of the damage caused by the Yugoslav Wars of 1992-1995. Sarajevo is a cosmopolitan European capital with a unique Eastern twist that is a delight to explore. The people are very friendly, be they Bosniaks, Croats, Serbs or anyone else. There is little crime, with the city ranking as one of the safest in Southeastern Europe.

Orientation

The city of Sarajevo stretches west-east along the river Miljacka; the main arterial road and tram routes tend to follow the west-east orientation. It is set in a narrow valley, surrounded by mountains on three sides.
Most tourists spend a lot of time in Old Town (Stari Grad). The eastern half of Old Town consists of the Ottoman-influenced Bascarsija (BAHS CHAR she ya; etymologically baš (head, main), čaršija (bazaar, trading area) in Turkish), while the western half showcases an architecture and culture that arrived with Austria-Hungary, symbolically representing the city as a meeting place between East and West.

• Tourist Information Centre

  phone: +387 33 580 999
  address: Sarači 58
• "Sarajevo Navigator" is an online guide magazine in English and Bosnian, the latest issue being March 2019.

Climate

Sarajevo has a humid continental climate, since mountains surrounding the city greatly reduce the maritime influence of the Adriatic Sea. Summers are typically hot (record high of 41°C in 2008) with an average of 46 days per year above 32°C, while winters are snowy and cold with an average 4 days per year below -15°C. Rain can be expected in every season, with an average of 75 days of precipitation per year, which in winter often falls as snow.

By plane

• Sarajevo Airport

  phone: +387 33 28 91 00
  address: Kurta Schorka 36, Sarajevo 71210
  This is Bosnia's principal airport, hemmed in by mountains and fog-prone, so flight delays are common in winter. It's poorly connected to western Europe (eg nothing direct to London, Paris, Amsterdam or Frankfurt) but better to the Near East. There are flights (not all daily, and some seasonal) to Belgrade (by Air Serbia), Budapest (by Wizz), Cologne-Bonn, Berlin Tegel TXL and Stuttgart (by Eurowings), Doha (by Qatar), Dubai (by Fly Dubai), Istanbul (IST by Turkish Airlines and Sabiha Gökçen SAW by Pegasus), Gothenburg, Stockholm ARN and Oslo (by Norwegian), Ljubljana and Podgorica (by Adria), Munich (by Lufthansa), Jeddah and Riyadh (by Flynas), Sharjah (by Air Arabia), Vienna (by Austrian) and Zagreb (by Croatia Airlines). The only passenger terminal is Terminal B; it's closed overnight 23:00-05:00. In the groundside main hall (ie after customs on arrival, before security on departure) there are currency exchange booths, car rental desks, a bookshop that sells local SIM cards (BH Telecom), and a fast food area upstairs; there's no luggage storage. Airside is small, with a cafe and duty free shops accepting major currencies. New terminal facilities are under construction, to open in 2020. Hotel Octagon (see "Sleep") is a 400 m walk northeast. About 1 km away, walkable by the route to the trolleybus (below) then keep straight on, is the East Bus Station for destinations in Republika Srpska.

While you're at the airport, consider visiting the Tunnel of Hope Museum (Tunel Spasa). This saves you a trip from city centre later on, though you'll probably have to drag your luggage along. The museum is southside of the runway (the terminal being north), which they tunnelled beneath in 1993 to create a lifeline to the beseiged city.
Transport to the city is a choice of bus, taxis notorious for scams, or a bit of a hike to catch the trolleybus.
Bus: Centrotrans bus runs daily between airport and Baščaršija in city centre. It runs roughly hourly 05:30-22:00, timed to connect with flights, taking 20-30 mins. A one-way ticket is 5 KM, return 8 KM, the first bag (up to 23 kg) per person is included and each extra bag is 5 KM. You pay on boarding the bus. It stops on request at downtown bus stops, which may not be specifically marked for the airport bus but they're usually next to tram stops.
Taxi: A ride downtown should not exceed 20 KM. Flagfall is 1.90 KM then it's 1.20 KM per km for a 6-7 km ride - any "airport supplement" is bogus. Insist on them using the meter. One scam is to wave a "fixed price list" at you, but it's just the product of a greedy imagination. Your hotel may offer an airport transfer, with rates varying from the competitive to the silly. A further option is to walk through Dobrinja as described below to pick up a taxi, though the saving on an honest fare is small.
Walk then trolleybus: This involves a walk of 600 m through the burbs of Dobrinja to reach the stop on Bulevar Mimara Sinana. You might want a map or a compass: the general direction is northeast with the terminal directly behind you, but it involves a zigzag. You exit the airport at the main gate onto Kurta Schorka highway. Turn right (southeast) and walk 200 m, there's no sidewalk. Take the first left, Andreja Andrejevića, and cut through residential Dobrinja passing near Hotel Octagon. Emerge onto the main road and turn right (again southeast) along Bulevar Mimara Sinana. On the opposite sidewalk (with westbound traffic) after 200 m, before you reach Mercator Center, is the bus stop Dobrinja škola B. Trolleybus 103 runs every 6 – 7 minutes daytime to Trg Austrijski, downtown on the south riverbank, taking 25 min; walk across the Latin Bridge to come into Old Town. (Don't take the 107 or 108 if you're aiming for Old Town.) The fare is 1.80 KM, pay the driver, and note there are frequent ticket inspectors on this route.

• Tuzla Airport is another way in, as it has budget flights by Wizz from across Germany and Scandinavia. Tuzla airport is 120 km north of Sarajevo. An airport bus runs direct from Sarajevo to meet the Wizz flights, taking 2 hours and costing €22 each way. Or you can travel via the frequent standard buses to Tuzla, taking a leisurely 3 hours.

By train

There are no international trains to Bosnia: since 2016 it's been cut off from the rest of the European network, and therefore excluded from websites such as Deutsche Bahn. Coming from the west, the work-around route is to travel first to Zagreb in Croatia. From Zagreb main station (Glavni Kol) take the local train at 09:00 to Hrvatska Kostajnica, arriving by 10:45: see Croatian Railways timetable. The fare's about €8. You're now 3 km from the Bosnian borderpost, either take a taxi, or walk south into town then east and cross the river by the first bridge. Once you've entered Bosnia, find a taxi to Banja Luka, 100 km southeast, costing around €50 and taking maybe 90 mins. You'll reach Banja Luka in plenty of time to catch the 15:49 local train to Sarajevo via Zenica, arriving by 20:41. The train is a modern Spanish Talgo and the fare is about €13. When checking the Bosnian Railways website, use the timetable menu not the ticket menu, as the latter only offers the main towns and bookable trains.
For the reverse journey, be on the 10:15 train from Sarajevo to Banja Luka in order to make the 19:15 from Hrvatska Kostajnica and reach Zagreb at 21:00. And confirm that your taxi driver has agreed to take you to the correct Kostajnica on the Croatian border (ie north-west, a printed map may help), not accidentally-on-purpose to some other Kostajnica, eg the one 80 km east near Doboj.
The only other railway route you're likely to get in by is Čapljina - Mostar - Sarajevo, with only two trains a day, departing in each direction around 07:00 and 19:00. Since 2015 there are no passenger trains south of Čapljina into Croatia and the port of Ploče (which has transport to Dubrovnik, Split and the Adriatic islands), though the line is still open for freight.

Sarajevo Railway Station

This Soviet-era station is in a dilapidated state, with few trains and lots of down-and-outs, though it's reasonably central in this strung-out city. The ticket office is cash only and they laboriously write out tickets by hand, so service is slow. There are toilets and cafes. Staff at the information desk speak good English and their stock reply to any traveller's enquiry is to try the bus station next door: this is good advice.
If your accommodation is in the west of the city, eg the Ibis Styles Hotel, then coming from Banja Luka you could change at Zenica for the local train to Sarajevo, which also stops at on Safeta Zajke. But it doesn't save much time or effort. The trains from Čapljina and Mostar trundle through this station without stopping.

By bus

There are two bus stations in Sarajevo, Main Station for most long-distance services and East Station for Serbia and towns in Republika Srpska.
On all intercity buses you pay a fee for luggage, usually 1 KM or €1 per piece. The driver will insist on exact change in one or the other currency pretty much at random, and then get picky about the denomination of the exact small change you give him.
The Main Bus Station (Autobuska stanica Sarajevo) is at Put života 8 next to the railway station, see that marker. It's at the terminus of Tram #1 to the Old Town, fare 1.60 KM. Direct international services include Belgrade (7 hr), Budapest (12 hr), Budva (9 hr), Zagreb (8 hr), Maribor (9 hr), Ljubljana (9 hr), Split (7-8 hours), Dubrovnik (6 hr), Graz (11 hr) and Vienna (14 hr). Pristina in Kosovo may involve a change in Novi Pazar, else travel via Podgorica in Montenegro. Flixbus is the main international operator. Tickets can be bought online from them or Centrotrans, from the bus station itself, or from a downtown travel agent such as Centrotrans on Ferhadija behind the cathedral.
Major bus routes within the country are to Tuzla (hourly, taking 3 hours, fare 11 KM), to Mostar via Konjic and Jablanica (hourly, taking 2 hours 30 min, fare 14 KM) and to Banja Luka via Zenica (every couple of hours, taking 3 hours, fare 11 KM.)
(Autobuska stanica Istočno or Lukavica) is away west, thanks to the bitter geography and politics of this region. It's in East Sarajevo in Republika Srpska, and the route from downtown Sarajevo has to sweep west to get round the hills then approach south then eastwards near the airport. It has better connections to Serbia than Main Station; both stations have buses to Montenegro. The main services are to Belgrade, Novi Sad, Herceg Novi and Nis. Routes within the country are to Bijeljina, Kalinovik and Trebinje not far from Dubrovnik.
To reach East Station, take trolleybus 103 from Austrijski Trg downtown all the way to the end, or a taxi for around 15 KM. There are no controls to cross into Republika Srpska, it's just like crossing a US or Schengen interstate line. There's not much at the station, but East Sarajevo has cafes, shops and ATMs, eg in TOM shopping centre 200 m southwest along Radomira Putnika.

By car

The main route from the west is past Zagreb east on E70, then south on E661 to enter Bosnia and towards Banja Luka thence Sarajevo. All approaches to the city involve twisty narrow mountain roads, where oncoming madmen overtake on blind bends and crests.
Hitching is fairly easy, make sure your sign is in both Bosnian / Croatian (Roman alphabet) and Serbian (Cyrillic). Sarajevo is a long thin city: if you can't get a lift into the centre, at least get yourself dropped by the tram tracks.

Sarajevo is a small, beautiful city with many landmarks. Getting lost is next to impossible if you have a map (although getting lost in Bascarsija's winding streets can also be part of the fun!) Very good and free maps can be obtained from the tourist information office, shopping centers, and hotels. A map app on your smartphone is fine, too, and some bookstores may also sell the traditional printed maps of the city.
Asking Sarajevans for directions is an exercise in futility. People don't know the names of streets a block from the building they've lived in all their lives. However, they won't tell you this, and as a rule will point you in some direction, usually not the right direction. Taxi drivers can't be expected to find anything but the most obvious addresses unless you tell them where to go, in Bosnian—showing the driver on your map will come in handy.

By foot

In Sarajevo, street signs are few and far between, and small and on the sides of buildings too far away to see when you're standing on a street corner. Building numbers are more or less consecutive but don't follow the "hundreds" styles of the United States, e.g., 23 Bjestiva street may be blocks from 27 Bjestiva street.

By public transport

Trams: Sarajevo's tram network is among the oldest in Europe, and it looks it. A single line runs east from Ilidža passing within 2 km of the airport - an extension to the airport has been planned and intermittently constructed since the 1990s. It runs up the middle of the main highway into the city, with a spur north (Trams 1 & 4) to the main railway and bus stations. At Marijin Dvor it divides into an anti-clockwise loop, same direction as the traffic flow. All trams go east along Hiseta and the riverbank through Baščaršija (Old Town) as far as City Hall. Here they loop to return west along Mula Mustafe Bašeskije (a few blocks north of the river) and Maršala Tita to Marijin Dvor. Only Tram 3 runs the entire line out to Ilidža, the others go part route, eg the 1 & 4 terminate at the railway station.
Buy tickets in advance from kiosks labeled tisak on the street or from the driver, where they cost slightly more (1.80 KM, paid in cash). Validate your ticket immediately on boarding: it's only good for one trip, with no transfers. A day card for unlimited travel on all local public transport in Zone A costs 5 KM. There are frequent ticket inspections: if you can't reach the validator because the tram is too crowded, then don't board. If you are caught without a valid ticket, you will be escorted off and fined 26.50 KM.
Buses: you'd only use these for the few sights or accommodation well off the tram route, eg the airport (see "Get in") or Vratnik district east of the centre, Buses 51, 52 or 55.

By bicycle

Only for seasoned urban cyclists: Sarajevo traffic is as hostile to cyclists as to fellow-motorists, only with worse results.
Nextbike has a bike rental scheme here and in Tuzla. First you need to register and pay a 20 KM deposit, easiest done online. It may take 24 hours to activate but if you're already registered with them in another country, you should be good to go. There are 14 pick-up / docking stations all along the tram lines out to Dobrinja near the airport, their map shows real-time availability. The first 30 mins per day are free, a further 30 mins cost KM 1.50.

By taxi

Taxi scams are common especially at the main train & bus stations and the airport. Know roughly what the honest fare should be, and insist on them using the meter. All legitimate taxis have a "TAXI" sign on top, license plates with "TA", and have a meter. Flagfall is 1.90 KM then it's 1.20 KM per km, plus maybe 1 KM for luggage, so a trip between Baščaršija and airport shouldn't exceed 15 KM. Pay in cash, the driver will issue a receipt upon request. Legitimate operators (as of mid 2019) include:

• Žuti (Yellow) taxi +387 33 66 35 55
• Sarajevo taxi 1515
• Crveni (Red) taxi +387 33 76 06 00
• Samir & Emir taxi 1516
• Holand taxi tollfree 0800 20234

With the exception of the Tunnel Museum and the Bosna spring, all landmarks are in or within walking distance of Old Town. Several walking tours are available, a free guided tour starts every day at 10:30 at the crossing of Gazi Husrev begova street and Mula Mustafa Baseskija street (address: Velika Avlija 14) and covers most of the Baščaršija.

• Avaz Twist Tower

  phone: +387 33 281 350
  address: Tesanjska 24a
  The easiest way to orient yourself in the city is to look for this distinctive 176 m twisted tower, completed in 2008, and hosting the media company Dnevni avaz. There's a café-bar & restaurant on Level 35, reached by lift (free access). From there you pay 2 KM in coins to pass the turnstile and walk upstairs to Level 36, which has an observation deck with outside walkway. The café-bar and restaurant are smoky and the food & service aren't much.

Baščaršija

Baščaršija is the historic district of Sarajevo. The cobbled streets, mosques and oriental-style shops at the heart the city feel like a world away from Europe when the call to prayer starts. You could be walking by a Catholic church, Orthodox church or a synagogue and hear the Islamic call to prayer at the same time. In this old bazaar you can find dozens of shops selling handmade copperware, woodwork, and sweets. Many historic monuments are situated around Gazi Husrev-begova street.

• SebiljPseudo-Ottoman wooden fountain in the middle of an open square in the old town of Sarajevo. It was built by Mehmed Pasha Kukavica in 1753, and under Austro-Hungarian rule moved to its current location in 1891 by Austrian architect Alexander Wittek. Three replicas of the fountain exist, respectively in Belgrade and Novi Pazar in Serbia, and in St. Louis. The fountain offers shadow and drinkable water to travelers. The surrounded Pigeon Square got its name from the countless pigeons swarming around. Feeding pigeons is allowed, and a seller with a mobile trolley sells corn to tourists to feed the birds.

• Sacred Heart Cathedral

  phone: +387 33 210 281
  address: Trg Fra Grge Martića 2
  The largest Christian cathedral in Bosnia, and the seat of Archbishop of Vrhbosna. It was built in honor of the Sacred Heart of Jesus in a neo-gothic style with Romanesque Revival elements, and modeled after the Notre-Dame of Dijon. Construction of the cathedral began on 25 August 1884, under Austro-Hungarian reign, was carried out by the Viennese contractor Baron Karl Schwarz, and supervised by architect Josip Vancaš. The cathedral was the scene of peace demonstrations in fall 1991 before the Bosnian War broke out, and subsequently damaged during the Siege of Sarajevo. The design above the door to the entrance is part of the flag and seal of the Sarajevo administrative canton and the Romanesque towers are featured on the flag and coat of arms of Sarajevo, making the building a symbol of the city. The niche above the portal features an octagonal rosette and a statue of the Sacred Heart. The interior of the cathedral was designed by architect Josip Vancaš, including the main altar which is made from Grisignano marble and rests on four columns of red Tyrolean marble. The frescoes were commissioned to Alexander Maximilian Seitz in 1886 but due to deteriorating health, they were only completed in 1887, and he died a year afterwards. Most of the actual work was undertaken by his assistant Alberto Rohden. A prominent feature is the grave of archbishop Stadler, the first archbishop of Vrhbosna, and the sculpture is of the hand of Marin Studin. The stained-glass windows ornamenting the cathedral were manufactured by the Viennese workshop of the Tiroler Glasmalerei (German for glass painting artisan). An English mass is held on Sundays at 12:00. For candles, ask the information desk at the entrance (1 KM each).

• Morića Inn

  phone: +387 33 236-119
  address: Sarači 77
  The only preserved Ottoman Inn (han literally means roadside inn) in Sarajevo, built in 1551, under the benevolence of Gazi Husrev-Beg's endowment (vakuf). It served as a caravanserai, able to accommodate up to 300 guests, 70 horses, and offered 43 rooms where travelers could spend the night. On 29 July 1878, the inn became the scene of the protest movement against the Austro-Hungarian occupation of Bosnia, and the People's Council (Narodni Odbor) was founded here. The building was damaged or destroyed by fires numerous times and rebuilt each time, notably in 1697 and most recently in December 1957 when the entire complex was burnt to the ground. Reconstruction took place from 1971 to 1974, and Persian calligraphic inscriptions from poems written by Omar Khayyám, a 12th-century Persian poet, were added as decorations. The property ownership to the inn was returned to the Gazi Husrev-Beg endowment in 1998, and houses a carpet shop and traditional restaurant, occasionally hosts exhibitions, and offers business space for purposes that match the historical context and purpose of the building. Stairs on either side of the inner patio allow visitors to reach the first floor with the rooms.

• Clock Tower

  phone: +387 62 626 626
  address: Mudželeti veliki
  The clock tower, at 30 metres, is the tallest in all of Bosnia, and dates back to the 17th century when it was constructed by Gazi Husrev-beg next to the mosque that also bears his name. The tower has a staircase with 76 wooden steps arranged in a square, and displays the time on all 4 sides. When Eugene Savoy of the Austrian army laid siege on the city in 1697 and looted it, the tower was set on fire, but restored in 1762. After the Austro-Hungarian occupation, the upper part of the tower was upgraded, and the decaying Turkish clock mechanism was replaced by a new one from Gillet & Johnston, made in London in 1873. The original clock mechanism was moved to the Vratnik mosque where it remains on display until today. The last upgrade dates from 1967, when the dials were gold-plated. A peculiarity of the clock tower is that it appears to be the only remaining clock tower in the world that displays the lunar clock (a la turca, lunar reckoning). This method of measuring time counts hours up till the moment of (astronomical) sunset instead of midnight, as with contemporary time calculation, so the hands are in the 12 o'clock position at every sunset, when a new day also begins. Since the setting of the sun is uneven throughout the year, the time needs to be manually controlled and recalibrated every 2 to 3 days. The task of recalibrating the clock was assigned to the muvekit (timekeeper), who used astronomical instruments in a special room called the muvekithana to calculate the position of the sun. The current muvekit, Mensur Zlatar, who works at a nearby jewellery shop, has been assigned the responsibility since 1960s. The exact timing of the sunset used to be an important moment for locals to schedule their time of prayer, but the original religious purpose behind the lunar time has long since had its meaning forgotten, causing many to think that the clock is simply bad at proper time keeping. In 2006, the Commission for the Preservation of National Monuments proclaimed the clock tower as a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The tower cannot be visited, but it is possible to stand at its base by following the tunnel leading to Pekara Imaret right next to the tower.

• Tašlihan

  address: Zelenih beretki
  Tašlihan served as one of the three stone caravanserais in Sarajevo (the others being the Morića Han and Kolobara Han), the name literally translates to 'stone han'. It is believed that Tašlihan was the largest and most representative inn of its kind in the region, and built between 1540-1543 by craftsmen from Dubrovnik, who equipped the building with lead cupolas unlike the other two inns. It had a square foundation with sides of 47m, guest rooms on two levels, and a fountain in the courtyard. Several fires damaged the building, and the last one in 1879 completely destroyed it. The last remaining bits of rubble were removed in 1912, except for the shared wall with the bezestan. When archaeological research was carried out as part of the 1998 renovation of adjacent Hotel Europe, the remains of Tašlihan were uncovered in the hotel's garden. The site was declared a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina by the Committee for the Preservation of National Monuments in 2004.

• City Hall

  phone: +387 33 292-800
  address: Obala Kulina Bana
  Iconic pseudo-Moorish revival style building in Sarajevo, constructed between 1892 and 1894 under Austro-Hungarian occupation of the city. It was designed in 1891 by Czech architect Karel Pařík, but after disagreements with the ministry, it was Alexander Wittek who continued work on the project from 1892 to 1893 until he fell ill and died in Graz in 1894. The work was completed in 1894 by Ćiril Iveković, at a total cost of 984,000 crowns. The city hall was formally commissioned in 1896 by the City Authority which occupied the building until 1949, after it became the National and University Library of Bosnia and Herzegovina. On 25 August 1992, the building was set ablaze by Serbian shelling at the beginning of the Siege of Sarajevo, causing its complete destruction. Most of the 1.5 million volumes in the library's collection, of which 155,000 rare books and manuscripts were lost in the fire, despite civilian efforts to save them. Vijećnica was restored between 1996 and 2013 with financial aid from Austria, the European Commission and the city of Barcelona, at a total cost of 25 million KM. It is now a national monument, reopened since 2014, and designated as a cultural building for protocol events, concerts and exhibitions.

• Officers’ Casino

  phone: +387 33 285-800
  address: Zelenih Beretki 2
  The Officers’ Casino was built in 1881 according to Karl Pařík’s design. It was the core of Sarajevo’s social life in late 19th and early 20th century. The Army Hall of Bosnia and Herzegovina has been used by the military ever since its establishment for various purposes, such as art exhibitions and public lectures. It holds two grand halls for receptions and cultural events, and was the venue of the first military music concert in the city, held in 1881.

Museums

Sarajevo hosts numerous museums on a variety of topics. The museums can offer an air-conditioned refuge from heat during Sarajevo's hot summers, or a place to warm up in the chilly winter months.

History and archeology

• Brusa Bezistan

  phone: +387 33 239 590
  address: Abadžiluk 10
  Small museum in a 1551 Ottoman silk shop, tracing Sarajevo's development from prehistory through Roman, Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and modern times. Its centerpiece is a model of the Old Town on the ground floor, made by Husein Karišik in the 1950s, depicting the era when the Tašlihan caravanserai was intact. On the second floor there is a famous blue garment with golden threads and fine yataghan (short Turkish sword).

• National Museum

  phone: +387 33 668-027
  address: Zmaja od Bosne 3
  Static displays of the natural and human history of Bosnia and Herzegovina - including an exhibition of traditional Turkish-style homes of Sarajevo prevalent in the nineteenth century, an extensive collection of insects and stuffed mammals and a large geology section with samples from around the world and a number of meteorites. The newly reopened museum also offers access to the botanical garden in the middle of the four main buildings: (1) archaeology from the Roman period up to the ninenteeth century, (2) Library, (3) Ethnology and (4) Natural sciences.

• Bjoertvedt

  Sarajevo Museum 1878-1918

  phone: +387 33 533-288
  address: Zelenih beretki 1
  The museum is dedicated to the Austro-Hungarian occupation of Sarajevo, which started with the Berlin Congress in 1878 and ended with World War I in 1918. The exhibition portrays life in the Austro-Hungarian era from different perspectives and themes, including the resistance against the occupation, lifestyle, culture, religion, industry and architecture. The time line ends with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie in front of the building. In the museums collection are numerous artifacts and photographs, along with wax statues of Franz Ferdinand and Sophie.

• Svrzo's House

  phone: +387 33 475-740
  address: Glođina ulica 8
  Part of the Sarajevo City Museum, Svrzo's House shows the living conditions of a Muslim family at the end of the 17th century. The house was built by the eminent Sarajevo family Glođo during the Ottoman occupation of the city, but ownership was transferred to the Svrzo family since the Glođo family had no male successors. The interior is divided in two sections: the public part (selamuk) and the family part (haremluk), which in turn is split in the traditionally separated living quarters for men, women and servants. Despite being constructed entirely out of wood, the building was surprisingly well preserved until the Siege of Sarajevo during which it sustained heavy damage. It was rebuilt after the siege and reopened in 1997, and renovated again in 2005.

• Gazi Husrev-Bey's Library Museum

  phone: +387 33 238 152
  address: Gazi Husrev-begova br. 46
  In a modern building opened in 2014, the museum has a collection of over 1200 items, displaying Islamic calligraphy, time-keeping and everyday objects of Muslim life. It's within the library which holds some 100,000 historic manuscripts, printed books, periodicals, and archive documents, but these are only accessible to registered users.

War memorials

Scars from the Bosnian War can still be seen in many parts of the city, as bullet holes in walls or abandoned buildings. The unresolved conflict (see box The Yugoslav Wars) left traumatic memories, and museums and memorials associated with the Bosnian War are scattered around the city.

• Sarajevo Roses are scars left in the concrete from mortar blasts during the Siege of Sarajevo, filled with red resin. Around 200 can be found throughout the city.

• Tunnel of Hope

  phone: +387 33 684 032
  address: Ulica Tuneli 1, 71210 Ilidža
  Sarajevo was besieged and bombarded from 1992, and by 1993 the blockade was total. Serb forces seized the airport, but handed it over to UN peacekeeping forces to avert international intervention. The UN used the airport to bring in humanitarian aid, but wouldn't allow any military support to the city's defenders, and they severed the city from Bosnian-controlled areas to the south. A secret tunnel was therefore dug between Dobrinja just north of the airport to Butmir just south: 340 m of true tunnel, plus covered trenches either side, totalling over 800 m. It enabled arms, munitions, oil and food to be brought into the city, and served as an evacuation route for officials and civilians. Later it was equipped with rail tracks, an oil pipe and electricity and telecoms cables. A museum has been built over the Butmir entrance, with 20 m of tunnel accessible to visitors, plus displays on the siege. City tours often include this museum.

• War Childhood Museum

  phone: +387 33 535-558
  address: Logavina 32
  Opened in 2017, the museum has personal belongings on display that illustrate the experience of a childhood during the Siege of Sarajevo. An audio guide reveals the stories behind the items, complementing the exhibits with additional pictures, audio and video. Video testimonies of inhabitants who grew up during the war are also shown throughout the visit. Only around 50 are in the permanent collection at any time, but the book War Childhood offers a compilation of them all. The book is for sale in the museum or can be consulted for free in the library section.

• Eternal Flame

  address: Ferhadija
  Memorial site designed by architect Juraj Neidhardt, honoring the victims of World War II with an eternal flame and inscription. The memorial was dedicated on 6 April 1946, the first anniversary of the liberation of Sarajevo from the four-year-long occupation by Nazi Germany and the fascist Independent State of Croatia.

• Museum of crimes against humanity and genocide 1992-1995

  phone: +387 62 467 764
  address: Ferhadija 17
  Small museum about the genocide in the Bosnian Civil War of 1992-95. The humanitarian side of the conflict is portrayed with shocking pictures and film fragments of the raw truth of the darkest era in recent Bosnian history. Complementary to the 11/7/95 Gallery, which focuses on the Srebrenica Massacre in particular. Warning: the authentic photographs and video fragments of the genocide may be shocking to young visitors. Parental advisory and visitor discretion is advised.

• Gallery 11/07/95

  phone: +387 33 953 170
  address: Trg Fra Grge Martića 2
  A small but compelling exhibition about the Srebrenica Massacre of July 1995, when 8372 people perished. Events are described from the perspective of investigative journalists visiting the site of the genocide. The audio guide (3 KM) is highly recommendable. Allow 60 - 90 minutes. The photos and video footage are shocking, visitor discretion advised especially with youngsters.

• Cemeteries: those who died in the 1990s war were buried in pre-existing cemeteries. In these you find old Ottoman turbe, Austro-Hungarian dignitaries, casualties of two World Wars, Yugoslav citizens - and then row upon row upon aching row of simple white marble stones for people in their twenties slain in the latest conflict.

Sniper Alley

address: Zmaja od Bosne

Sniper Alley was the informal name primarily for streets Zmaja od Bosne Street (Dragon of Bosnia Street) and Meša Selimović Boulevard, the main boulevard in Sarajevo which during the Bosnian War was lined with snipers' posts, and became infamous as a dangerous place for civilians to traverse. The road connects the industrial part of the city (and further on, Sarajevo Airport) to the Old Town's cultural and historic sites. The boulevard itself has many high-rise buildings giving sniper shooters extensive fields of fire. Signs reading "Pazi – Snajper!" ("Watch out – Sniper!") became common. People would either run fast across the street or would wait for United Nations armored vehicles and walk behind them, using them as shields. According to data gathered in 1995, the snipers wounded 1,030 people and killed 225 — 60 of whom were children.

Memorial for the Children of Sarajevo

address: Maršala Tita

Monument erected in 2009 by sculptor Mensud Kečo and dedicated to the 1,600 children who were killed during the Siege of Sarajevo. The monument is located in Veliki Park, and consists of a glass sculpture constructed by stacking individually cut layers of green glass with a total height of 5 m, and is 1.7 m in diameter at its base. In 2010, the names of 521 children were inscribed in seven cylinders of anodised aluminum and placed on a concrete plinth around the sculpture.

Bosnian Historical Museum

phone: +387 33 226-098

address: Zmaja od Bosne 5

The museum was founded 70 years ago, but heavily damaged by shelling during the war and still in a perpetual state of disrepair. The exhibitions primarily focus on the war, but the presentation of the artifacts is outdated, and the museum lacks content overall. Some of the displays are worth a visit, at least if you are able to cope with the graphic pictures. The 11/7/95 Gallery and War Childhood Museum offer similar content for a much better value.

Museum of the 105th Motorized Brigade

address: Grdonj

A memorial dedicated to the 105th Motorized Brigade of the Bosnian Army, which took part in the defense of Sarajevo during the 1992-95 siege of the city. Since 1993, over 7,000 members have passed through the brigade, of which 312 were killed in action and more than 2,000 were wounded. The museum is housed in a renovated fortified tower at Pointy Rock.

Art

• National Gallery

  phone: +387 33 266-550
  address: Zelenih beretki 8
  Established in 1946 after the Second World War, the National Gallery contains over 6000 pieces of art, with a focus on works of Bosnian interest. Interestingly, the gallery remained open and held exhibitions during the Siege of Sarajevo. It was closed in 2011 and reopened to the public in 2012. The permanent exhibition, Intimacies of Space, highlights Bosnian life from all angles.

• Museum of Literature & Performing Arts

  phone: +387 33 201-861
  address: Sime Milutinovića Sarajlije 7
  A small museum dedicated to the importance of literature and expressive arts in Sarajevo, with attention to prominent local writers and poets. Worth a visit to those interested in arts and literature.

• Modern Art Museum

  phone: +387 33 216-927
  address: Terezija bb
  Museum for contemporary art, formed during the war as a "resistance of culture". It has 130 works by notable artists such as Italian painter and art theorist Michelangelo Pistoletto, Greek artist Jannis Kounellis, German performance artist and sculptor Joseph Beuys, and US conceptual artist Joseph Kosuth. Tatty concrete building, they hope for a new museum building by Renzo Piano someday.

• Despić House

  phone: +387 33 215-531
  address: Despićeva 2
  A dependency of the Sarajevo City Museum, constructed in several stages during different periods, the oldest parts dating back to the 17th century. The property belonged to the wealthy Serb Orthodox Christian Despić family, which donated the house to the city, which turned it into the Museum of Literature and the Performing Arts. It gained fame as the venue for the city's first theater performances, so it may be regarded as the precursor of modern theater. Together with Svrzo's House, the Despić House presents visitors with the lifestyle of wealthy merchant families that contributed to Sarajevo's growth and prosperity.

• Festina Lente Bridge

  address: Obala Kulina bana
  A 38 m long pedestrian bridge over the Miljacka, opened in 2012, with an unusual loop in the middle. Seats in the loop invite travellers to sit down, enjoy the view and "make haste slowly."
• The grandiose Academy on the south bank facing Festina Lente bridge was originally a church, built in 1899 to Karl Pařík’s design. It's now the Academy of Performing Arts within the University of Sarajevo, but no longer fit for purpose and they plan to move elsewhere. So just admire the facade.

• Bosniak Institute

  phone: +387 33 279 800
  address: Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 21
  The institute is a cultural center focusing on Bosniak culture. It was established by former Bosnian Vice President Adil Zulfikarpašić. The institute is housed in a renovated sixteenth century Turkish bath and includes a library and an art center.

Administrative buildings

• Presidency Building

  address: Maršala Tita 16
  The Territorial Government Building (today, the official residence of the Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina) was designed by Josip Vancas and opened in March 1886. The building is modeled after Florentine Medici Ricardi Palace and reflects Florentine Early Renaissance style. It also houses the Constitutional Court of Bosnia and Herzegovina (Ustavni sud Bosne i Hercegovine) and the Archives of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

• The Parliamentary Assembly Building

  phone: +387 33 284 450
  address: Trg Bosne i Hercegovine 1
  The Building of the Bosnian Parliamentary Assembly was commenced back in 1954, designed by the architect Juraj Neidhard (who was a close associate of Le Corbusier), and finally built during 1978–1982. At the time it was finished, the building of the Assembly of SRBiH was the only building for that purpose in this part of Europe designed in a modern style. Also houses the Council of Ministers of Bosnia and Herzegovina Directorate for European Integration. The building became an icon of the Siege of Sarajevo after it was shelled by Serb artillery and photographed while on fire in 1992.

• Konak

  address: Ulica Konak 5
  The Konak was built as an Ottoman governors’ residence in 1868 in Late Baroque style during the rule of Topal Osman Pasha, an Ottoman vizier. It was built on a site of a former konak (an official residence in the Ottoman Empire). From 1878 to 1918 during the Austro-Hungarian occupation the Konak was the residence of the Habsburg family, and the Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Josef resided in Konak during his visit in May, 1910. During the Yugoslav Republic (1918 to 1941) Konak hosted generals, governors, district-prefects and many politicians from around the world. Today, it is a state residence used by the members of the Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

• Central Post Office

  phone: +387 33 252-834
  address: Obala Kulina bana 8
  Austro-Hungarian era post office, designed by Czech architect Josip Vancas, and opened in 1913. It is a monumental building with tall doors leading visitors into a classic caged foyer in Secession style, with some decorative elements resembling the post office of Vienna. It was damaged in May 1992 during the Siege of Sarajevo, but restored in 2001 under supervision of architect Ferhat Mulabegović.

Religious buildings

Islamic

• Gazi Husrev-beg's Mosque

  phone: +387 33 573 151
  address: Saraci 8
  Beautiful medieval mosque at the heart of Old Town. Non-Muslims welcome, but dress appropriately and respect prayer times. It was built in 1530 / 1531 AD (937 AH) in what's called "classical Ottoman" or "early Istanbul" style. It was badly damaged in the 1990s wars, being targeted by the besiegers, but restored and re-opened in 2002.

• Hanikah

  address: Ulica Sarači 49
  A khanaqah is a Sufi lodge or centre for the study of Islamic mysticism. This one is a 1998 replica of the original built in 1531 with 14 study rooms, a simahana (room used for Dervish religious ritual), mihrab niche to indicate the direction of Mecca, and a šadrvan fountain in the inner courtyard. It's nowadays an art gallery.

• Emperor's Mosque

  address: Obala Isa-bega Ishakovića
  This is the oldest mosque in Sarajevo, the first one to be built in 1457 after the Ottomans occupied the city. It is the largest single-subdome mosque in the country, constructed under supervision of Isaković-Hranušić who dedicated it to sultan Mehmed the Conqueror. It was destroyed at the end of the 15th century but rebuilt in 1565 and dedicated this time to Suleyman the Magnificent. The mosque was damaged again in the Second World War and most recently during the 1992-95 Civil War, and restoration work on the painted decorations and interior are still pending. The adjacent cemetery hosts the graves of many former city viziers, mullahs, muftis, sheikhs an other prominent historical figures of Sarajevo. There is also a café inside the walls. The mosque is open both to Muslims and non-Muslims, but a visiting woman needs to cover her hair and wear long skirt or dress within the mosque.

• Ali Pasha Mosque

  address: Hamze Hume
  The mosque was constructed during 1560–61 as a vakıf (legacy or perpetual endowment) of Sofu Hadım Ali Pasha, the Ottoman former governor of the Bosnia Eyalet of the Ottoman Empire, after his death in September 1560. It was built according to the classical Istanbul architectural style. The dome covers the prayer area and three small domes cover the cloister. Because of its noble proportions it stands at the top of the scale of all sub-dome mosques that have been constructed in Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the framework of the complex there is a domed burial site (turbe) with two sarcophagus of Avdo Sumbul (d.1915) and Behdžet Mutevelić (d.1915), Gajret activists who died in the dungeons of Arad. The mosque was heavily damaged by Serbian forces during the conflict of the early 1990s, especially the dome. The most recent renovation of the mosque occurred in 2004 and in January 2005, the Commission to Preserve National Monuments issued a decision to add the Ali Pasha Mosque to the list of National Monuments of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

• Ferhadija Mosque

  address: Ulica Zelenih Beretki
  The mosque is named after Ferhad Bey Vukovic Desisalic, a Bosnian Sanyak Bey, who had the mosque built in 1562. Archaeological research into the painted decorations inside the mosque, carried out between 1964 and 1965, revealed 6 paint layers dating from different periods. The oldest and most valuable layer, found in the main dome, belongs to a group known as Rumi ornament, and dates back to the 16th century. Next to the mosque is a small cemetery, where members of the Janissary Order and of the old Sarajevan aristocratic families were buried.

• Tomb of the Seven Brothers

  phone: +387 33 712-800
  address: Bistrik 8
  The history of the tomb dates back to the founding days of Sarajevo, and it is assumed that a certain sheik who had arrived with the army of Sultan Mehmed II el-Fatih was the first to be buried at this spot. The sheik built his house next to the current tomb, and in his will asked to be buried at the base of his garden, with the remaining area used as Muslim cemetery. Later on, two dervishes were also buried here, falsely accused of stealing gold from the Sarajevo treasury in 1494. Over two centuries later, 4 army commanders who were accused of collaboration with Prince Eugene of Savoy in his raid of the city, were also buried in the tomb after, according to the legend, a heavenly light descended upon their grave as evidence of their innocence. Thus, the tomb unites the 7 individuals, who are brothers by faith rather than brothers by birth. In 1815 a wall with seven windows was built around the tomb, and a room for a tomb keeper was added. Some of the property was demolished in 1937, but the wall and tomb still stand today.

• Hajji Sinan's Tekke

  address: Ulica Alije Đerzeleza 1
  The tekke was built by Hadzi Sinan Aga, a wealthy merchant from Sarajevo, or his son Mustafa-Pasha, who was a silahdar (an officer in charge of the weapons) at Murad IV Sultan's Court, from 1638 to 1640. The tekke is comprised of several rooms: a room where zikr (the Dervish prayer) is performed, the sheik's residence, musafirhana (a visitor's inn) and an area for coffee making. In addition to regular Dervish rituals, the tekke gathered Sufis (mystics), who practiced tesavuf (mysticism) and studied works in Persian, Turkish and Arabic. Over a hundred inscriptions have been preserved at this site. Sinan Tekke’s greatest visual attraction is the calligraphy design on the wall of the courtyard, known as “Suleiman's Seal”, the rosette design is nearly three meters wide with the words, “There is no God but God, and Muhammad is his Messenger”, painted 12 times in the fresco style. In 1768, the first asylum for psychiatric patients was opened in Hajji Sinan’s Tekke, marking the beginning of organized health care in BiH.

Christian

• St Anthony's Church

  address: Franjevacka
  Roman Catholic church in Gothic Revival style, built 1912-14 on the site of previous versions. The current interior dates from 1960s, with works by leading 20th C artists including Meštrović. The church serves the adjacent monastery.
• The Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan na Bistriku) next to the church was built in 1894, also in Gothic Revival style and designed by Karel Pařík. It's still a monastery and therefore seldom open to visitors, but its collection of paintings, sculptures, organ, manuscripts and books are occasionally put on view.

• Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos

  phone: +387 33 269 261
  address: Zelenih beretki 1
  The Cathedral is the largest Serbian Orthodox church in Sarajevo and one of the largest in the Balkans. It is dedicated to the nativity of the Theotokos, and erected at the request of the Orthodox parish of Sarajevo, with construction taking place between 1863 and 1868. The church is constructed as a three-section basilica inscribed in a cross-shaped plan, and has five domes. The domes are built on the beams; the central one is much larger than the other four side domes. The church is arched by round elements. The small gilded baroque-style belfry is built in front of the entrance. The interior walls are decorated by painted ornaments. In the lower zones of the walls the painted ornaments are simulating the marble stone construction look. Arches and vaults are decorated in ornaments only. In 1898, the Orthodox Metropolitan Palace was built near the cathedral.

• Old Orthodox Church

  phone: +387 33 571 065
  address: Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 59
  Also known as the Church of the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel (Cyrillic: црква св. Арханђела Михаила и Гаврила) is a Serbian Orthodox church. It was first mentioned in Ottoman sources dating to 1539. The church was built on older foundations, and is one of the oldest sacred buildings in the region, built in a medieval Serbian-Byzantine architectural style. Its interior is known for outstanding woodcarving art, paintings, and contains the fifth largest collection of religious icons in the world with a total of 140 icons present, dating from the 13th to 19th century. Among its collection are also 13 historic books and 37 liturgical garment items. The bell tower was constructed in 1883 and renovated in 1960. The site was declared a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina in 2006.

• Church of St. Joseph

  address: Ulica Fra Anđela Zvizdovića
  Roman Catholic church with 3 bells designed by Karel Pařík in a Romanesque Revival style, funded by Pope Pius XI. Construction began in 1936 and the building was consecrated in 1940, during the early months of the Second World War. The triple aisled basilica is built on top of a sanctuary with a crypt containing the tomb of Archbishop Ivan Šarić. The high altar of St. Joseph and the terracotta Stations of the Cross were gifted by Pope Pius XII. There are a total of 15 tombs in the walls of the church, hand carved by sculptor Franjo Rebhan. The stained glass windows were designed by Ivan Marinkocić, but destroyed at the end of the war in 1945, and subsequently restored. It was damaged again during the 1992-95 Bosnian civil war, restored in the early 2000s, and classified as a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

• Church of the Holy Transfiguration

  address: Ulica Zmaja od Bosne 43
  Orthodox church designed by Alexander Deroko and built in 1940 in Byzantine Revival style. It was originally planned to be built in Split, owning its resemblance to similar buildings along the Adriatic coast, but eventually constructed in Sarajevo instead and consecrated by Serbian patriarch Gravillo V. It is the primary place of worship for the 50,000 Orthodox Christians in the region. The church has been the target of numerous attacks throughout its history. It was heavily damaged during the 1992-95 Siege of Sarajevo but renovated in 2003. Reworking of the valuable frescoes began in 2004. In 2016, the church was set on fire by pyromaniacs, without injuries. It was targeted by looters again in the same year, and 2 rare icons were stolen.

• Mausoleum of Gavrilo Princip

  address: Patriotske lige
  Cemetery of St. Mark, with a chapel doubling as the mausoleum of Gavrilo Princip, the assassin of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sofie at the Latin Bridge in 1914. Gavrilo Princip was buried here together with other Serb revolutionaries beneath the chapel. There is a plaque on the wall of the chapel to commemorate for eternity our Serb heroes.

Jewish

The Jewish population was first established in 1492-97 when Sephardic Jews fled the Inquisition in Spain and Portugal, and settled here and in other Ottoman cities. The Ashkenazi Jews mostly arrived during Austro-Hungarian rule in the late 19th century. Inter-community relations were mostly amicable and the population was relatively unharmed by the First World War, collapse of Austria-Hungary and formation of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. By 1940, their numbers peaked at around 14,000, 20% of the city population. In 1941 the Nazis invaded, placing the country under the control of the Croatian Ustaše, who vigorously set about the deportation and extermination of minority groups. Those who could, fled to the west, and after the war most exiles remained abroad. Some 2000 Jews did remain or return, but when the 1990s civil wars broke out, there was a mass evacuation to Israel of Jews living in former Yugoslavia. Fewer than 1000 remain in Bosnia and Herzegovina today, perhaps half of them in Sarajevo.

• Jewish Museum

  phone: +387 033 535 688
  address: Velika avlija bb
  This is housed in the Old Temple (Il kal vjezu) or Grand Temple (Il kal Grandi) built in 1581 for the Sephardic settlers. It's a three-nave building with the front area used for preaching and the upper floors for the women's section. It's mostly a story of harmony and prosperity, but the third floor relates events of 1941-45. The building was badly damaged then and in the 1990s civil wars but has been well restored.
• The Jewish New Temple (Il kal muevus) next door, built in 1820, is now an exhibition space open Su-F 15:00-19:00.

• Ashkenazi Synagogue

  phone: +387 33 229-666
  address: Ulica Hamdije Kreševljakovića 59
  The Old then the New Temples were for the Sephardic congregation, so the Ashkenazi synagogue (nowadays the only functioning synagogue in Sarajevo) was built for that community in 1902, designed by Karl Pařík in Moorish revival style. It escaped Nazi destruction and features large arches with painted decorations and a ornate ceiling highlighted by a ten-pointed star. A stone menorah at the entrance commemorates the 400-year anniversary of Jews in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Tours are available in English on request.

• Jewish Cemetery

  address: Ulica Urijan Dedina
  The cemetery lies on the slopes of Trebević mountain in the Kovačići district of southern Sarajevo. It is one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in South-East Europe, and in use from 1630 until 1966. It was established by Sephardic Jews during the Ottoman period, and also became the burial ground for Ashkenazi Jews after they arrived in Sarajevo in the late 19th century. It contains over 3850 tombstones and stecci, as well as four monuments dedicated to the victims of fascism. It began as a medieval necropolis of stecak tombstones, as still exist in Jablanica and elsewhere in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The Sephardi of Sarajevo created tombstones with a unique morphology, of which the symbolic motifs are not found on any other Jewish monuments elsewhere in the world. The cemetery was the front line during the Bosnian War, and was used as artillery position by the Bosnian Serbs. Several tombstones were severely damaged by bullets and explosions. It was also heavily mined, but completely cleared in 1996. In 2004, the cemetery was declared as National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Ottoman bridges

During Ottoman rule of Sarajevo, 13 bridges were built over the Miljacka River and Bosna River. Four stone bridges remain: the Latin Bridge, the Šeher-Čehajina Bridge, the Goat Bridge and the Roman Bridge.

• Latin Bridge

  address: Obala Kulina Bana
  Archduke of the Austro-Hungarian empire, Franz Ferdinand, was assassinated on this bridge on 28 June 1914, sparking the beginning of World War I. A plaque commemorates the event. On the bridge was a memorial to the assassin Gavrilo Princip, but it was removed during the 1992-1995 War.

• Šeher-Čehajina BridgeBuilt in 1585/1586 and survived major damage from flooding in 1619, 1629, 1843 and 1880, but was repaired each time. When the Miljacka River was dammed in 1897 to regulate the water flow, the riverbed was altered and one of the original 5 arches of the bridge on the left bank was buried, a subtle change that can still be seen by observers with a keen eye. According to the legend, the city's vizier Hadzi Husein had ordered to erect the bridge and embed a diamond in one of its pillars to finance future repairs. One night the diamond disappeared, and a poor young man confessed to have stolen it as a gift to a girl he fell in love with. Swayed by the love between the two and the return of the diamond, the man was released from prison, but the diamond was never embedded back into the bridge. In 2005, the Commission for the Preservation of National Monuments declared the bridge a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

• Roman BridgeCrossing the Bosna River at the historic Western entrance into the city. It is the only preserved stone bridge over the Bosna River, and considered one of the most authentic Ottoman bridges in the country. It was built out of carved stone between 1530 and 1550 using lime mortar and stones from ancient neolithic, Illyrian and Roman settlements in the bridge's vicinity, most importantly the Roman village Aquae Sulphurae (Latin for sulfur waters) which served as the region's cultural and administrative center. Numerous archaeological artifacts from that period (jewelry, coins, ceramics etc.) from the Roman period have been found around the bridge. Some of the stone tiles (kaldrma) have shallow engravings of Roman origin, from which the bridge derived its name.

• Goat’s BridgeArchitecturally interesting bridge at the historic Eastern entrance into the city. It had an important ceremonial function, as it served as the place where each Ottoman vizier was welcomed by the previous vizier and citizens of Sarajevo. The bridge is constructed from white marble, has a single arc with two circular apertures, and is 42 m long and 4.75 m wide. The span of the main arc is 17.5 m. According to the legend, before the bridge's existence, a poor shepherd noticed his goats sniffing on a shrub along the Miljacka River. Upon inspecting the shrub, he found a treasure with golden coins, which he used to finance his own education. After he became wealthy and influential, he had the bridge constructed at the shrub where his goats found the treasure, which gave the bridge its name. The truth in the legend was lost in history, but the bridge was almost certainly built between 1565 and 1579, a time when the road network underwent major infrastructure upgrades under reign of Mehmed-paša Sokolović.

Vratnik

In the 17th century conflict between Austria-Hungary and the Ottoman Empire, the decisive battle came at Zenta (now in Serbia) in 1697, when the Ottomans were routed, and their grip on central Europe was broken. The Austro-Hungarian forces then devastated Sarajevo before marching home. Further attacks were likely so a fortified city was built here 1727-1739, east of the old centre of Baščaršija. Later suburbs surrounded it, and the name Vratnik (probably meaning "gates") applies to this wider district, but the sights of interest are all in the Vratnik redoubt.
From Baščaršija either walk up Kovači past the war cemetery onto Jekovac and Carina (Buses 51, 52 & 55 run this way); or follow the river upstream taking the right fork just before the road goes into a tunnel, then ascend right for White Fortress or left for Yellow Fortress.

• Martyrs' Memorial Cemetery Kovači

  address: Sirokac
  Here lie victims of the 1992-95 Civil War. The centrepiece is the tomb of Alija Izetbegović (1925-2003), first president of the independent Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The tomb is a dome suspended on 8 marble pillars, with a military honour-guard.

• Museum of Alija Izetbegović

  phone: +387 33 237-220
  address: Kapi-kula Ploča, Kovači
  Small museum within the Ploča and Širokac gates of Vratnik, dedicated to Alija Izetbegović, first president of the independent Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina. He served 1992-2000, much of that time only nominally as he was besieged in Sarajevo in the early years, and overshadowed by the EU High Representative after the war. The museum has a library of Alija's work and a few personal items. The first floor exhibits his life, the passage between Ploča Gate and Širokac Gate exhibits his role as commander of the army. See also his tomb in nearby Kovači cemetery.

• Yellow FortressSmall bastion and cannon fortress, regularly smashed up and rebuilt. The latest renovation was in 1998, so it's a pleasant place to picnic and gaze over the city, but that's about all there is. Café Kamarija (adjacent on Pod Bedemom) is open daily 08:00-23:30, but their prices reflect the view.

• Jajce Kasarna are Austro-Hungarian barracks 200 m east of Yellow Fortress. They're derelict and unsafe to enter.

• Visegrad GateOne of the three gate-towers of Vratnik, controlling the road east towards Visegrad and Istanbul. It was built 1727-1739 in limestone and Bosnian stone hreša with roof shingles.

• White FortressThis natural bastion had a fort at least from 1550, the nucleus from which the later fortifications of Vratnik were extended. It was rebuilt in the Austro-Hungarian period but nowadays is a shattered ruin, and not entirely safe - stealing the masonry for other buildings has done as much damage as later bombardments, such as in 1992-95. Good views over the city especially at sunrise / sunset, but don't get caught here in darkness.

Olympics

Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympic Games. These (officially the XIV Olympic Winter Games) were the first held in a socialist state, though Moscow had hosted the 1980 Summer Olympics. Structures remaining from that era are in a sorry state.

• Olympic Museum

  phone: +387 33 226 414
  address: Alipašina bb
  A museum aimed at the preservation of the memories of the organization of the 1984 Winter Olympics in Sarajevo. From 1984 to 1992, the museum was located in the city center, in a mansion owned by Nikola Mandić, former Sarajevo citizen and later president of Croatia during the Nazi occupation in WWII. Declared an enemy of the state at the end of the war, Nikola Mandić lost his life and property, and the mansion was donated to the museum by the Sarajevo city council. At the start of the 1992-95 Civil War, the building was shelled by Serb forces and damaged beyond repair. A significant part of the museums collection went up in flames. The remaining collection was salvaged and transferred to the Zetra Olmypic Complex, and in 2004 the new museum at its current location was opened to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the 1984 Olympic Games.

• Skenderija

  phone: +387 33 201-203
  address: Terezija BB
  Tito-era cultural and sports center on the south bank of the river, constructed in 1969 and opened with the premiere of the film Battle of Neretva. It was later expanded for the 1984 Winter Olympic Games, and features a market and shopping mall. Because of its concrete construction, it only sustained minor damage during the war, but gradually decayed afterwards due to neglect. In February 2012, after a record snowfall in Sarajevo, the roof of one of the halls collapsed under the snow pressure, which was estimated to be around 160 kg/m². The building was subsequently restored by the city and returned to service, and receives 500,000 visitors per year.

• A cable-car, restored in 2018, runs from Franjevačka south of the river downtown, up to the former . Nice views and hilltop strolls, the station is a ruin. Forest paths lead to the Pino Hotel (accessible by road, eg drive or taxi) and the Trebevic Bobsled Track which mad off-road bikers hurtle down, and which is being restored for winter sports.

• '

  National Theater

  phone: +387 33 226-431
  address: Obala Kulina bana 9
  The National Theater has a regular programme of theatre, concerts and opera. It was built in 1899 as a "Gentlemen's Club" by Czech architect Karel Pařík, who contributed to over 160 buildings in and around Sarajevo.

• Fox in a Box

  phone: +38 761 10 10 07
  address: Sime Milutinovica 15/I
  Escape room games. In "Mr Fox's Secret Study", you try to escape from the office by solving riddles. In "The Bank Job", you try to steal diamonds from the bank safe, in the dark by flashlight. In "The Bunker", you try to avert an accidental nuclear war.

• Skakavac WaterfallWaterfall located 12 km north of Sarajevo, above the Nahorevo Village. With its 98 m in height, it is the second tallest waterfall in Europe, after the Vinnufossen waterfall in Sunndal, Norway. Located in an area of exceptional natural beauty, surrounded by lush forests of spruce, beech, and fir forests, the waterfall is worth a day trip is weather allows it. A wooden pedestrian bridge takes visitors under the waterfall.

• Dariva Canyon

  address: Dariva
  An 8 km long promenade from the historic center of Sarajevo to the Goat's Bridge, following the canyon of the Miljacka. The promenade is very picturesque, and the pedestrian-only route offers magnificent natural views which have been appreciated since the Austro-Hungarians built a railroad through the Miljacka valley. There are 150 linden trees lining the promenade, planted by diplomats residing in Sarajevo at the invitation of the mayor. Some of the trees still have plaques bearing the names of those who planted them.

Recreation parks

• Sarajevo City Center mall has a large play area for children. BBI Centar a smaller one. Both malls are slightly west of downtown on the main road.

• Spring of the Bosna River

  phone: +387 33 580-999
  address: Ilidža
  The beginning of the river Bosna, where the pure and ice cold water surges out of the mountains. Here you can walk in large, well-kept park, picnic, and spend the whole day without getting bored. May 1 festival is held here.

• Sarajevo Zoo

  phone: +387 33 560 560
  address: Patriotske lige 58
  A small zoo and recreation park at the outskirts of Sarajevo, primarily aimed at children. It is the oldest zoo in Bosnia and Herzegovina, during the Austro-Hungarian period located in Ilidza but later moved to its current location. There are 57 species of animals from all over the world on display, including lions which have been donated by the zoo of Sofia in 2013. A little train and several other attractions and playgrounds are available for the entertainment of kids, some at an extra fee.

• Sunnyland

  phone: +387 57 991 339
  address: Miljevići bb
  A newly constructed bobsleigh track on Mt. Trebevic overlooking Sarajevo, and adjacent restaurants and bars selling mediocre food and drinks. Excellent entertainment for kids, with indoor playgrounds and facilities, but not very interesting to adults.

Sports

• Watch football (ie soccer) at

  Olympic StadiumMulti-purpose arena built for the 1984 Winter Olympics, capacity 34,500, it's now the home ground of FK Sarajevo. They play in the top tier of national football, the Premier League of Bosnia and Herzegovina or "Liga 12", and often qualify for European tournaments. The national team also play home matches here.

• Or watch football at

  Stadium Grbavica

  phone: +387 33 660-134
  address: Zvornička 27
  This is the home ground (capacity 16,000) of FK Željezničar Sarajevo, who likewise play in the top tier Liga 12.

• Ilidza Thermal Riviera

  phone: +387 33 771-000
  address: Butmirska Cesta 18, 71211 Ilidza
  Water park with several indoor and outdoor swimming pools, wave pool, massage amenities, and water slides. Slightly outdated infrastructure, but the natural sulphur rich water makes up for it on hot summer days. Sauna and fitness center available at the adjacent Hotel Hills.

• Isa-begov Hamam

  phone: +387 33 570-050
  address: Bistrik 1
  Renovated hamam in the Isa-begov Hotel with traditional ottoman steam room, water pool and massage facilities.
• From May to August there are white-water rafting trips down the river Neretva. The usual base for trips is Konjic midway between Sarajevo and Mostar. Operators who do package day-trips from Sarajevo include Sarajevo Funky Tours, Sarajevo Insider and Meet Bosnia Travel. These cost about 100 KM including transport and lunch.
• See Sarajevo Region for the ski resorts of Jahorina, Bjelašnica and Igman, all about 35 km away.

Events

Sonar compiles the city's regular calendar of events.

• Sarajevo Winter International Festival

  phone: + 387 33 266 620
  address: Maršala Tita 9a/V
  Winter counterpart of the Film Festival, with music, visual arts, film and video, performing arts and literature, plus a program for children. Dates for 2020 are not yet confirmed.

• Sarajevo International Guitar Festival

  address: Vijećnica, Obala Kulina bana
  Eminent guitar players lead concerts, workshops and competitions. Dates for 2020 are not yet confirmed.
• Nights of Baščaršija: throughout July the old town centre has theatre performances, classic and rock music concerts and folklore dances. Various locations but concentrated around Ćemaluša.

• Sarajevo Film Festival

  phone: +387 33 221 516
  address: Branilaca Sarajeva 24
  Large summer film festival, various venues including the outdoor "Summer Screen". The Culture Centre has a box-office but book online if you can. The next event is 16-23 Aug 2019.

• MESS International Theater Festival

  phone: + 387 33 200 392
  address: Kamerni Teater, Maršala Tita 54
  Festival for expressive arts, with special attention to youth and alternative subjects. The next event is 28 Sept-10 Oct 2019.

• Sarajevo Jazz Festival

  phone: +387 33 550 480
  address: La Benevolencija 14
  Large eclectic jazz festival. The next event is 7-10 Nov 2019.

Most shopping centres and upscale restaurants accept credit cards. Small cafés, clubs and souvenir shops mostly require cash, but might jib at notes larger than 20 KM.

• Markale MarketMarket Hall opened in 1895 and home to local meat, cheese, and vegetable merchants: walnuts are a specialty. The market was bombed with great loss of life in Feb 1994 and again in August 1995. The first attack was a single mortar, and responsibility was disputed. The second was five rounds undeniably from Bosnian-Serb positions, and precipitated NATO military intervention in the conflict.

Baščaršija

The Old Town has plenty of carpets and local copperware on sale. Over a century ago, each street in this area hawked a specific ware: for example, one street had all the coppersmiths, shoes were on another, jewelry on another. An underground souk (open 08:00-20:00) stretches along the west side of Gazi Husrev-begova street.

• Bedesten

  phone: +387 33 532-144
  address: Gazi Husrev-begova
  A covered market for haberdashery and craftsmanship, built during the Ottoman Empire period, with a design based on the design of the mosques. The bedesten serves as the central building in the historic commercial part of the city, and has its origins in the Greco-Roman basilica or kaiserion which served a similar purpose. During Ottoman times, the bedesten was of such economic importance that cities were classified under two categories: those with a bedesten, and those without.

• Isfahan Gallery

  phone: +387 33 237 429
  address: Saraći 77
  Traditional Persian carpet store inside the Morića Inn. The handcrafted carpets are pricey, but the setting inside the reconstructed inn is worth a visit.

• Sahinpasic

  address: 38d Titova
  Has a solid collection of historical literature.

• Baklava Shop Sarajevo

  phone: +387 61 267 428
  address: Ćurčiluk Veliki 56
  Authentic baklava. A wide selection of baklava in many flavors (walnut, almond, hazelnut, pistachio, etc.), where the baklavas containing orah (walnut) are considered to be the most traditional ones.

• Kazandžiluk StreetThe street is named after Sarajevo’s master coppersmiths, featuring shops such as Sakib Baščaušević and Aganovic.

Shopping malls

Sarajevo offers numerous shopping malls, the most notable being the Sarajevo City Center in the commercial district. Most shopping malls in Sarajevo have been newly constructed or renovated, and offer a modern shopping experience to those who can stand the annoying pop music they play all day long.

• Sarajevo City Center

  phone: +387 62 992 492
  address: Vrbanja 1
  Landmark in the commercial district, and located centrally in Sarajevo along the boulevard connecting the airport with the historic center of the city. Houses the largest shopping center in the city, with 160 stores, countless restaurants and bars, and a luxury hotel.

• Alta Shopping Center

  phone: +387 33 953-800
  address: Franca Lehara 2
  Shopping center in the commercial district of the city, with 70 stores. Famous for the Lego store inside.

• BBI Center

  phone: +387 33 569-990
  address: Trg djece Sarajeva 1
  Second largest shopping center of Sarajevo, after the City Center, founded in 2010, with 125 stores. It won the ICSC European Shopping Centre Awards in 2011.

• Bosmal City Center

  phone: +387 33 725-180
  address: Milana Preloga 12A
  Shopping center on the south bank of the river, opened in 2009, with 50 stores.

• Importanne Center

  phone: +387 33 266-295
  address: Zmaja od Bosne 7
  Smaller shopping mall opened in 2010 with around 35 stores.

• Mercator

  address: Ložionička 16
  One of the oldest shopping malls in Sarajevo, opened in 2000, with roughly 35 stores.

• Grand Centar Ilidža

  phone: +387 33 629020
  address: Butmirska cesta 14
  Ilidža shopping center with 33 stores is by the #3 tram terminus and Thermal Spa.

Money

The local currency is konvertibilna marka (KM, Convertible Mark, international abbreviation BAM), fixed at €1 = 1.95583 KM (~1 KM = €0.51)), and is used throughout the country. Informally, restaurants may accept euros at €1 = 2 KM. The odd rate is because the Convertible Mark was pegged 1:1 against the Deutsche Mark, which was replaced with the euro at that rate.
There's a whole slew of banks along Maršala Tita at the north boundary of Old Town, usually open M-F 08:00-18:00, Sa 09:00-13:00. Money can also be exchanged at any post office or at currency exchange booths, which stay open till 21:00.

It is said in Bosnia that some people eat to be able to drink, others eat to be able to live and work, but true Bosnians work and live to eat. A lot of attention is devoted to the preparation and consumption of food in Sarajevo. Gastronomy in the city was developed under Eastern and Western influences, and Bosnian cuisine focuses on local produce like meat, vegetables, fruits and dairy products. For information on typical Bosnian foods, see Bosnia#Eat.

Budget

Cheap food on the go, from a myriad small shops and cafés, is burek, ćevapi or pita. Burek is meat pie. Ćevapi are grilled meats; the word derives from "kebab" and the traditional Sarajevo style is minced beef and mutton in a somun flatbread. Pita is a filo pasty or pie, typical varieties being meat (meso), cheese (sirnica, similar to ricotta), cheese and spinach (zeljanica), pumpkin (tikvenica) and spicy potato (krompirusa).

• Ascinica ASDž

  phone: +387 33 238-500
  address: Ćurčiluk mali 3 in Bascarsija
  When you get sick of greasy meats, ASDž serves Bosnian-home-cooking, vegetable-centered dishes (but don't expect 100% vegetarian, as many are still flavored with a bit of meat). Order cafeteria-style at the counter: you pay by the plate and can mix-and-match different foods into the same dish.

• Buregdžinica Bosna

  phone: +387 33 538-426
  address: Bravadžiluk 11
  Pita & burek café, sandwiched between Mrkva and Bosnian House.

• Cakum Pakum

  phone: +387 61 955 310
  address: Kaptol 10
  A little restaurant with great savory pancakes (crepes).

• Mr Gurman

  phone: +387 62 153 900
  address: Kolodvorska (pofalici)
  Fast food

• Petica Ferhatović

  phone: +387 33 537 555
  address: Bravadžiluk 21
  A popular but spacious restaurant serving fresh all-beef ćevapi. The waitresses wear traditional Bosnian dresses.

• Pizzeria Ago

  phone: +387 33 203-900
  address: Mula Mustafe Baseskije 17
  Good value pizzas, and pancakes for dessert at only 1 KM, which are a boon for the budget travellers with a sweet tooth.

• Pizzeria Maslina

  phone: +387 62 751 200
  address: Trg Heroja 10
  Affordable prices with a diversity of cuisines, from Italian to Bosnian traditional food.

• Pizzeria Terrazza

  phone: +387 61 569 513
  address: Strossmayerova 8
  Pizzas and Bosnian sandwiches

Mid-range

• Cafe & restoran Ahar

  phone: +387 67 11 71 777
  address: Zmaja od Bosne 13
  Nice and quiet restaurant with European-Italian menu and a brick oven.

• Cappuccino

  address: Grbavica
  Delicious Bosnian meals and the best pasta and pizza in the region. Good for a full meal or snack or just a coffee.

• Hacienda

  phone: +387 33 441 918
  address: Bazardzani 3
  Mexican food, very approximately, eg their "guacamole" is pickles with mustard and cream.Or is this the prototype of a new fusion cuisine called BosMex? Large portions with fresh ingredients and a pleasant atmosphere. A bit pricey as it's in the tourist area. Weekends it morphs into a club, playing House and Techno Music so loud you can't hear yourself think.

• House of Spite

  phone: +033 477 867
  address: Veliki Alifakovac 1
  The history of this restaurant dates back to the Austro-Hungarian occupation, when Sarajevo underwent large scale infrastructure projects which resulted in the post office, the National Museum, the Faculty of Law, and many others. When the City Hall was to be constructed however, the Austro-Hungarians faced the stubbornness of an old Bosnian man named Benderija who lived in a hourse in that location. He refused to have his house demolished for the construction of the City Hall, and only after long negotiations he agreed to give up his property under 2 conditions: he wanted a bag of golden coins as compensation, and the house had to be moved brick by brick to the other side of the river. Since then, the building is known as the house of spite, and a symbol of Bosnian stubbornness and resistance against the government. In 1997, the house was converted to a lovely restaurant selling hearty stew-like meals and Bosnian specialties. A terrace offers a view over the river and the Sarajevo City Hall which it replaces. The house is decorated in oriental style, and worth visiting for the ambient alone.

• Karuzo

  phone: +387 62 347 456
  address: Dženetića Čikma bb
  Vegetarian & fish menu, in mostly Italian style. The restaurant only seats 18 and reservations are essential. The boss takes your order, prepares the food and serves it himself. Fast food it's not, you need to set aside 2-3 hours.

• Mrkva

  phone: +387 33 532-519
  address: Bravadžiluk 13
  Traditional Bosnian fast food, a local favorite. A small chain with 4 other outlets over the Sarajevo metropolitan area.

• Paper Moon

  phone: +387 33 956 939
  address: Hamdije Čemerlica 45
  A combination of dishes of the international cuisine and a traditional clay oven.

• Park Princeva

  phone: +387 61 222 708
  address: Iza Hrida br. 7
  Bosnian food, very mixed reviews for quality, and pricey - you're paying for the city view, especially around sunset, with the minarets ulullating around the valley.

• Restoran "Apetit"

  phone: +387 62 86 81 31
  address: Gazi Husrev begova 61
  An "open kitchen" and a daily menu prepared from selected fresh food; meat dishes, fish dishes, risottos, pastas, imaginative salads, fragrant woks and delicious sweet pleasures. Also dishes for vegans, vegetarians and gluten-free offerings.

• Trattoria Uno

  phone: +387 61 17 22 30
  address: Zmaja od Bosne 45
  A small Italian restaurant. The grilled vegetables as an appetizer are worth trying.

• Zeljo

  phone: +387 33 441-200
  address: Kundurdžiluk 19
  Traditional Bosnian food, a local favorite. A small fast-food chain with other outlets across the city but this is the most central. A good venue to visit with kids.

Splurge

• Bosnian House

  address: Bravadziluk 3, Bascarsija
  Steak house. Seats inside and outside - if it's chilly out there, sit against the warm wall with the oven behind it, and start with the muckalica veal broth. Waiters may hassle you to order too much, saying that the servings are small, which isn't the case. Very mixed reviews for quality of food and value for money.

• Dveri

  phone: +387 33 537-020
  address: Prote Bakovića 12
  Homestyle restaurant in heart of old Sarajevo. Very cozy feel, with strands of garlic, lots of delicious warm bread, hearty soups, meats, etc.

• Mala Kuhinja

  phone: +387 61 144 741
  address: Tina Ujevića 13
  Tiny restaurant, only seats 15, owned by Bosnian celebrity chef Muamer Kurtagic. No menu, he'll go with what's fresh today and any preferences, and you watch the work in progress.

• Restaurant Kibe

  phone: +387 33 441 936, +387 61 040 000 (Mobile)
  address: Vrbanjuša 164
  Offering stunning panoramic views on Sarajevo, Kibe Mahala offers a selection of the finest Bosnian national dishes, whereof the famous spit-roasted lamb, and a wide assortment of wines from Bosnia and Herzegovina and the region.

• Restaurant Vinoteka

  phone: +387 33 214 996
  address: Skenderija 12
  Restaurant Vinoteka offers a wide selection of dishes from international cuisine recipe and a large selection of domestic and foreign wines. There is a guarded parking lot next door to the restaurant.

• Restoran Brajlovic

  phone: +387 33 626-226
  address: Samira Ćatovića Kobre 6, Ilidža
  At the water front of the Zeljeznica, Brajlovic offers an up scale selection of Bosnian specialties. Their cevapcici is widely known to attract tourists and locals alike.

• Sarajevo Brewery

  phone: +387 33 491-100
  address: Franjevačka 15
  A large bar and restaurant near the Latin Bridge. Serves 'western' food, only so-so quality & amount for the price, plus a variety of beers brewed on the premises. Sometimes smoky & lacking ventilation, quality of service variable. The brewery also has a souvenir shop / museum here.

Sarajevo has vibrant night life with a plenty small thematic bars. Clubs are usually opened until early morning. Thursday, Friday and Saturday are hot days to hang out despite the rest of the week offers quite good night life. There are probably over 100 cafés in the city, centered in the old town, but a clear distinction is made whether the traditional Bosnian coffee is served or not.

Cafes

• Bosanska kafana "Index"

  phone: +387 33 447-485
  address: Bascarsija 12
  Bosnian coffee

• Cafe Slastičarna "Palma"

  phone: +387 33 714 700
  address: Porodice Ribar br.5
  Coffee and pastry shop, located in Sarajevo in part of town called Hrasno, started working back in 1970. In 1985 "Palma" received the CD -Diplomatic Consular Code.

• Ministry of Ćejf

  phone: +387 61 482 036
  address: Kovači 26
  Great espresso drinks and well trained baristas. They also have karak and good cakes.

• Miris Dunja

  phone: +387 62 922 900
  address: Ulica Čizmedžiluk 9
  Coffee, Bosnian coffee and juices. On a regular day the Bosnian coffee served is usually very good, and on a good day the Bosnian coffee may truly be extraordinary exceptional.

• Mrvica

  phone: + 387 62 887 777
  address: Paromlinska 58h
  Coffee, brunch or even lunch

• Mrvica Old Town

  address: Ulica Jelića 5
  Coffee and different types of bakery and desserts. Opened ca. 2017. No Bosnian coffee served, only "modern" coffee styles.

• Opera Bar/Café

  phone: +387 33 831-647
  address: B Sarajeva 25
  Fast WiFi connection, but the waitstaff are often unfriendly and inattentive. It attracts the acting and musical community among the regulars, though this isn't an exclusive kind of place. A bit smoky.

Bars

• Café de Paris

  phone: +387 33 211-609
  address: Hamdije Kreševljakovića 61
  You might not have expected to find an IPA in the Balkans, but Café de Paris serves a selection of craft beers from Sarajevo microbreweries. They also have a line of very smooth local rakijas (try the quince). Riverside, outdoor seating looks out upon impressive architecture from the Austro-Hungarian times.

• Tre Bicchieri Wine Store & Tasting Bar

  phone: +387 33 223-230
  address: Cobanija 3
  Long list of Italian wines. Very cozy and comfortable place. Good music & relaxing atmosphere.

You need to register with the local police within 24 hours of arrival. Your hotel or hostel should do this on check-in, but if you wild-camp or stay at a private residence, you need to organise this yourself. Failure to register doesn't normally bother the authorities but could result in a fine or deportation.

Budget

• You can wild camp in the park by the River Miljacka. Chances are you'll see tents already there. Follow the road west and stay close to the river. In summer there is a public toilet. No guard or services.
• Locals may unofficially let you stay in their property, payment to be negotiated.

• Haris Youth Hostel

  phone: +387 33 23 25 63
  address: Vratnik Mejdan 29
  Haris is the owner, friendly fellow who also owns a tourism agency near the pigeon square at Kovaci 1 and can take you on tours around the city, annotated with his own personal experiences from the war. The hostel is ten minutes uphill walk from the main square, worth it for the view and hospitality.

• Hostel City Centre Sarajevo

  phone: +387 33 203 213
  address: Saliha Hadzihuseinovica Muvekita No. 2/3
  Clean and tidy place to stay with kitchen facilities, 2 large living and common rooms, cable TV, free internet and wifi. They have 4- ,5- ,6- and 10-bed mixed dorms plus 2,3 and 4 bed private rooms. You'll need to lug your baggage up 4 flights, no lift.

• Motel Jasmin

  phone: +387 33 71 61 55
  address: Kupreska 26
  Singles, doubles, triples with separate bathrooms and TV. Cleanliness very variable.

• Hostel Ljubičica

  phone: +387 33 53 58 29
  address: Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 65
  The hostel itself is friendly, central for Old Town and usually clean. However it's also a travel & accommodation agency, and may place you in any of a number of dorms in the area - it may not be clear at the time of booking what you're getting.

• Hostel Kod Keme

  phone: +387 33 531-140
  address: Mali Ćurčiluk 15
  Small friendly guesthouse with private rooms, no dorm.

• Pansion Sebilj

  phone: +387 33 573-500
  address: Bravadžiluk bb
  Most of the staff speaks English fluently. An internet-cafe is downstairs in the same house, a restaurant in the atrium. The restaurants in the Old Town, groceries and a pharmacy are all in walking distance. Good location, friendly staff, hot water, clean. But no internet, walls are paper thin, you can hear everything in the next room, and the downstairs bar plays loud music till midnight, uncomfortable slat beds. Unisex showers (only 2) and bathroom. No way to lock bathroom or shower area when inside. No laundry service, no kitchen. No lockers for gear.

• Hostel Tower

  phone: +387 61 800 263
  address: Hadzisabanovica 15
  Clean & mostly friendly place, wifi weak. On two occasions in the last year guests fell foul of the owner and were literally kicked out, with boot to backside.

• Hotel Hayat

  phone: +387 33 570-370
  address: Abdesthana 27

• Hotel & Hostel Kan Sarajevo

  phone: +387 33 220 531
  address: Brace Begic 35
  Single to quadruple bed- bedrooms as well as apartments. Restaurant on site and personal assistance with sightseeing. From 40 KM.

Mid-range

• Garni Hotel Konak

  phone: +387 33 476 900
  address: Mula Mustafe Başeskije 54
  Built in 1962 and completely renovated in 2008. Staff are friendly, speak English, and in the off season can be persuaded to negotiate. Hotel amenities include breakfast, ensuite bathrooms and internet connected computers, while the hostel rooms are double bed privates with satellite television which share a bathroom among three rooms.

• Hotel Hecco Deluxe

  phone: +387 33 558 995
  address: Ferhadija 2
  Business hotel with suites and terrace restaurant. It's on the top floors of a building that is otherwise empty, so it's a bit spooky in hours of darkness. Often smells of cigarette smoke.

• Hotel Michele

  phone: +387 33 560 310 or +387 61 338 177
  address: Ivana Cankara 27
  In a quiet area. The staff are nice, breakfast and laundry included plus private parking with direct elevator access to the room floors and wireless high speed internet.

• Hotel VIP

  phone: +387 33 535533
  address: Jaroslava Černija br 3
  Latin bridge is 300 metres from Hotel VIP, while Bascarsija Street is 300 metres away. Sarajevo Airport is 9 km from the property.

• Motel Sokak

  phone: +387 33 570-355
  address: Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 24
  It's small clean, quiet, friendly and comfortable, in an old building but modern inside.

• Opal Home Sarajevo

  phone: +387 37 445 445
  address: Despićeva 4
  The four-star hotel with modern design and luxury interior, which opened in 2014, offers 12 comfortable rooms and 22 beds.

• Pansion Stari Grad

  phone: +387 33 239 898
  address: Sagrdžije 29A
  A cozy hotel walking distance from the old town with friendly staff willing to help travelers get around the city with maps and tips. With wifi.

• Hotel Terex

  phone: +387 57 318 100
  address: Ive Andrica 23, 71123 Dobrinja
  A smaller hotel surrounded by soviet tenements in the residential area of Dobrinja, close to the Dobrinja commercial district.

• Hotel Imzit

  phone: +387 33 451 423
  address: Lukavička Cesta
  Basic hotel at the outskirts of Dobrinja at the foot of Suma Mojmilo hill.

• Hotel Octagon

  phone: +387 33 789-905
  address: Akifa Šeremeta 48
  A lovely 3 star hotel in a residential area right across from the airport, ideally suited for business travelers with a lay-over of a night.

Splurge

• Hotel Holiday

  phone: +387 33 288 200, +387 33 288 300
  address: Zmaja od Bosne 4, 71000 Sarajevo
  Clean, safe, nice private rooms with private bathroom and shower, well-maintained. Friendly staff speaks English. Credit cards accepted. The restaurant on the third floor is great.

• Novotel Sarajevo Bristol

  phone: +387 33 705 000
  address: Fra Filipa Lastrića 2
  Business hotel now part of Accor chain. Great rooms and comfortable beds. Friendly staff, three restaurants/cafés. Halal certified. Held in regard now as one of the best large hotels in the city. Entrance fee to a small spa is included in the room price.

• Hotel Central

  phone: +387 33 561 800
  address: Ćumurija 8
  Clean comfy hotel, and it is indeed central. With spa and fitness centre.

• Hotel Colors Inn

  phone: +387 33 276600
  address: Koševo 8
  Colors Inn Hotel Sarajevo has 37 luxury single and double rooms and a private parking.

• Hotel Europe

  phone: +387 33 580 570, +387 33 580 444
  address: Vladislava Skarića 5
  Built in 1882 right next to medieval ruins, it was recently renovated, elevating it to five-star premier boutique status. Home to many celebrities who come to work or visit the city, such as John Travolta, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. The in-house Viennese Café is great, offering many Central European as well as local specialties. The hotel offers a view over the Tašlihan archaeological site right next to it.

• Hotel President Sarajevo

  phone: +387 33 575 000
  address: Bazardžani 1
  Located near the centre of the old town of Sarajevo. Hotel President offers 72 comfortable rooms, garage, breakfast room, Congress Hall as well as a Café/lobby bar.

• Radon Plaza

  phone: +387 33 752 900
  address: Džemala Bijedića 185
  Swish hotel, named for its owner, who is also the owner of Avaz newspaper and one of the city's wealthiest people.

• Hotel Espana

  phone: +387 57 961-200
  address: Ive Andrića bb, 71123 Lukavica
  Hotel in a calmer residential area of Sarajevo on the territory of Republika Srpska.

There are four mobile operators in Sarajevo: BH Telecom (060, 061, 062), m:tel (065, 066, 067), HT Eronet (063) and Haloo (064). There is no 4G/LTE coverage, but 3G is widely available. Since Bosnia and Herzegovina is not part of the EU or EEA, the international roaming charges are not capped as those have been since 2017, and can be much higher. However Bosnia and Herzegovina is part of a Balkan roaming zone with Montenegro, Serbia and North Macedonia, capped at €0.20 per MB from July 2017. But that only applies if you have a local SIM card, from any of the operators, which can be purchased in one of the many kiosks around the city. BH Telecom and m:tel have special offers aimed towards tourists, starting from 20 KM for 5 GB.
The local area code is +387 33 (Kanton Sarajevo) and the local postal code is 71000.

• BH Telecom

  phone: +387 33 238-573
  address: Sarači 60
  Several locations, the most convenient for Old Town is on Sarači next to the TIC. Basic mobile internet package for 5 KM or €2.5 (300 MB) and "Ultra Tourist 1" for 20 KM (5 GB). Ask for BH Mobile's Tourist SIM.
• Central Post Office BH Pošta is a sight in itself, see "Administrative buildings" listing earlier. It's at Obala Kulina bana 8 next to the National Theatre.
• There's another big post office next to the railway station, open M-F 07:30-18:00 and Sat 08:00-16:00.

There are still many minefields and unexploded ordnances in the Sarajevo area and its surrounding suburbs. Never go into damaged buildings (which are really rarely seen) and always stick to paved surfaces avoiding grassy hills that surround the city. Areas that are not cleared are marked by yellow tape or signs, but still not all minefields have been identified due to the lack of resources and the lack of international help. Paved roads are always safe. Crime against foreigners is very rare and the city is safe to visit. (As with any country in former Yugoslavia, be careful not to get into sensitive discussions about politics with people you do not know, but even those can be very educational when you come across a person who's willing to discuss it.) Be aware of pick pockets who usually operate on public transportation vehicles.
Bosnia and Herzegovina has double the traffic fatality rate in Europe as a whole, and Sarajevo has recently seen a few high-profile accidents with pedestrians. Be alert whether driving or crossing the street.
Sarajevo has instituted nighttime water restrictions between 00:00 and 05:00. This is to limit water lost from the city's old and deteriorating leaky pipes. Consider filling up a water bottle in the evening. (Rest assured Sarajevo has safe—indeed extremely high quality—tap water, when it's running.)
There are an incredible number of pickpocketers working in the city and very few police officers patrolling the city. To be honest, police is not seen at all. Pickpocketers are very sloppy and it's pretty easy to spot them, but with that number of people picking the pockets they probably will succeed eventually.
A final point on health and safety is that the air in Sarajevo can be noticeably thick with pollution, so that asthmatics or those with other chest problems may find themselves short of breath a lot of the time, particularly at night. Ensure you have ample medication, just in case.
Avoid areas of the city such as Alipašino Polje, Švrakino and the surrounding areas of the Novi Grad municipality as those are mainly dangerous zones with high crime rates, shootings, violence and poverty. Go there only with locals and not during night time. Anyway it is off the tourist trail and you most likely don't have any reason to even go to those parts of town.

ICE

• General emergency number

  phone: 112

• Police

  phone: 122

• Fire

  phone: 123

• Ambulance

  phone: 124

• Mountain Rescue

  phone: +387 33 61 29 94 43

• BIHAMK

  phone: 1282

• Cantonal Police Station

  phone: +387 33 226 676
  address: Augusta Brauna 5

• Water from fountains and taps in Sarajevo is safe to drink, but it may have an unpleasant chlorine odour. The mains supply may be turned off overnight.
• The main risk to your health, land mines aside, is the strong sunlight. Usual precautions: hat, long-sleeved shirt, seek the shade and apply sun screen.
• Pharmacies (Apotheka) are dotted around the city. Two handy for Old Town are Al-Hana on Ulika Patka, and Apoteka Baščaršija at Obala Kulina bana 40 by the riverside.

• General Hospital

  phone: +387 33 285-100
  address: Kranjčevićeva 12
  Only if it's serious.

Cultural heritage from the Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and most recently Yugoslav periods has been assimilated into modern Sarajevo as a multicultural, multireligious metropole. Catholic and Orthodox Christians, Muslims, and Jews share the city, and as such, common sense regarding respect towards people of these religious backgrounds should be upheld. Even the younger generation is on average very religious in comparison to other European capitals, although not all religious traditions may be followed equally strictly. For example, young Muslims may choose to drink wine, but refuse pork meat, while older Muslims likely refuse both. Keep this in mind when offering presents to your host family. When visiting mosques, skin-covering clothing should be worn, and women should wear a veil covering their hair. At the most touristic mosques, veils will be available to visitors for this purpose.
Although the Bosnian War ended with a UN enforced cease fire, the underlying conflicts between the different ethnic groups in Sarajevo are far from resolved. Many inhabitants have survived the siege of the city from 1992-95, and almost everyone has lost relatives and/or friends in the conflict. Strong anti-Serb sentiments may be present among the Bosniak population, and scars from the war are left in memory. While the war is not a taboo subject, as evidenced by the many memorials and museums scattered around the city, it remains a sensitive topic that easily brings up negative memories, if addressed uncomprehendingly. Aside from anti-Serb sentiments, many also feel dismay or anger towards the United Nations, which are blamed for the Srebrenica massacre and inadequate protection of Sarajevo citizens during the Siege.
There is an ongoing dispute between Bosnian unionists and Serb separatists, striving for the independence of Republika Srpska. Since some neighborhoods of Sarajevo are on the territory of Republika Srpska, opinions will vary depending on where you ask in the city. The political situation in Sarajevo in particular is complex, and outsiders taking a position may be accused of uninformed interference in internal Bosnian affairs. In general, it is advised to abstain from discussing politics, unless your conversation partner brings up the topic him/herself and asks for your opinion.

Embassies

• Australia

  phone: +387 33 206 167
  address: Maršala Tita 6/III

• Austria

  phone: +387 33 279 400
  address: Dzidzikovac 7

• Belgium

  phone: +387 33 208 362
  address: Grbavička 4

• Brazil

  phone: +387 33 921 802, +387 33 921 803
  address: Grbavicka 4, 2nd floor

• Bulgaria

  phone: +387 33 668 191
  address: Radnička 30

• China

  phone: +387 33 215 102, +387 33 262 110, +387 33 209 918
  address: Braće Begić 17

• Croatia

  phone: +387 33 277 111
  address: Ulica maršala Tita 28

• Czech Republic

  phone: +387 33 587 050
  address: Franjevačka 13

• Egypt

  phone: +387 33 666 498, +387 33 665 659
  address: Nurudina Gackića 58

• France

  phone: +387 33 282 050
  address: Mehmed bega Kapetanović Ljubušaka 18

• Germany

  phone: +387 33 565 300
  address: Skenderija 3

• Greece

  phone: +387 33 560 550
  address: Obala Maka Dizdara 1

• Hungary

  phone: +387 33 205 302
  address: Ulica Splitska 2

• Indonesia

  phone: +387 33 568 510
  address: Splitska 9

• Iran

  phone: +387 33 650 210, +387 33 225 126
  address: Obala Maka Dizdara 6

• Italy

  phone: +387 33 218 021, +387 33 218 022, +387 33 203 959, +387 33 203 960, +387 33 203 961, +387 33 565 450
  address: Cekalusa 39

• Japan

  phone: +387 33 277 500
  address: Bistrik 9

• Kuwait

  phone: +387 33 569 020
  address: Ulica Telirovića 1 (Talirevića 1)

• Malaysia

  phone: +387 33 201 578
  address: Radnicka 4a

• Montenegro

  phone: +387 33 239 925
  address: Talirevića 4

• Netherlands

  phone: +387 33 562 600
  address: Grbavička 4

• Norway

  phone: +387 33 254 000
  address: Ferhadija 20

• Pakistan

  phone: +387 33 211 836, +387 33 666 657
  address: Emerika Bluma 17

• Poland

  phone: +387 33 290 500
  address: Višnjik 20

• Qatar

  phone: +387 33 565 810, +387 33 565 812, +387 33 565 813
  address: Dajanli Ibrahim-bega 23

• Romania

  phone: +387 33 207 447
  address: Čobanija 28

• Russian Federation

  phone: +387 33 668 147, +387 33 210 913
  address: Urijan Dedina 93-95

• Saudi Arabia

  phone: +387 33 211 861, +387 33 211 862
  address: Ulica Kalemova 40

• Serbia

  phone: +387 33 260 080, +387 33 260 090
  address: Obala Maka Dizdara 3a

• Slovakia

  phone: +387 33 716 440
  address: Trnovska 6

• Slovenia

  phone: +387 33 251 770
  address: Maglajska 4

• Spain

  phone: +387 33 584 000
  address: Ulica Mehmeda Mujezinovića 13 A

• Sweden

  phone: +387 33 276 030
  address: Ferhadija 20

• Switzerland

  phone: +387 33 275 850, +387 33 254 030
  address: Zmaja od Bosne 11 (RBBH, Building B)

• Turkey

  phone: +387 33 568 750, +387 33 568 791, +387 33 568 792, +387 33 568 793
  address: Vilsonovo šetalište
  Also represents Azerbaijan.

• United Kingdom

  phone: +387 33 282 200
  address: Hamdije Cemerlica street 39a (Hamdije Čemerlića 39a)

• United States

  phone: +387 33 704 000
  address: 1 Robert C. Frasure Street (Ulica Roberta C. Frasuera)

• Konjic, 43 km southwest of Sarajevo, has Tito's enormous bunker, and white-water trips down the River Neretva.
• Jablanica, 20 km west of Konjic, has a notable necropolis, and railway bridge scene of the Battle of Neretva.
• Mostar, 30 km south of Jablanica, has a picturesque old bridge and Ottoman centre. You come this way to reach the Adriatic coast.
• Belgrade the capital of Serbia, 200 km northeast of Sarajevo, is a lively cosmopolitan city.