Sidi Bou Said
The best time to visit is early autumn or spring (March-early April/late October-November), before the assault of package tourists begins, when you can still walk alone on the narrow streets, around white-blue traditional houses, enjoying the views. If you are there during the summer months, it is advisable to visit not just the jam-packed tourist main street but also the emptier inner parts of the neighbourhood. Empty in the day during Ramadan.
Get in
You may drive by car. Traffic is OK. There is free parking (uphill, to the right), which may be overbooked on weekends.
Get around
The village is quite small, and you can visit every street of the village in no more than two-three hours. On the top of the hill there is a beautiful view of the surrounding bay.
See
- The white houses with blue roofs and windows, unique to this village, perched on a hill, with an amazing view of the Mediterranean Sea and the Bay of Tunis.
Ennejma Ezzahraformer palatial home of Baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger, now a museum.
Family HouseAn old house turned into a museum, showing the traditional life of an 18th century Tunisian lawyer. Privately owned and maintained by his descendants, it's well worth the visit. It's to your left as you enter the village.
Do
On the street along café des nattes, a small path on the right with many steps leads you down the hill to the seaside (), frequented by locals and seemingly unknown to tourists. A small beach, where swimming is possible, and a port with yachts that you can see from the top of the hill, with a small store and a telephone for taxis. When facing the sea, you can follow the road to your left back up to the top of the hill - a pleasant walk with a great view on the sea if it's not too hot, if you don't want to climb the stairs. Or take a taxi, they seem to stop by rather often by the beach!
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Center for Arab and Mediterranean Music
phone: +216 71 746 051address: 8, rue du 2 marsOrganises concerts and events taking place at the Ennejma Ezzahra palace.
Buy
Like many other Arab settlements around the world, Sidi Bou Said has a small souk year round, selling basic commodities for the locals. In addition, during tourist seasons, souvenir stalls litter the lower part of the main street of the village. A traditional product manufactured in Sidi Bou Said are bird cages, coloured in white and blue, like the roofs of the village. Don't forget to haggle.
Eat
Mid-range
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Au Bon Vieux Temps
phone: +216 71744733address: 56 rue Hedi ZarroukRomantic, with great view from the terrace, but too often offering listless, bland food. Tastier food is on offer at the fresh doughnut stand nearby, on the same road. -
Coste cafe
address: Avenue 14 JanvierCoffe shop with a large outside terrase.
Splurge
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address: Rue Hedi ZarroukThe most upscale restaurant in town. Descent portions, tasty food, with a bit too formal atmosphere.
Drink
Café des délicesBest view in Sidi Bou Said. Shisha for 4 DT, but be careful, if you don't know the price the waiters will attempt to scam you for more money. Drinks are very expensive here (5 DT per bottle of water!), essentially you are paying for the view.
Cafe De NattesFamous cafe where artist Paul Klee worked often. Located at the top of the hill from the TGM (train). Much cheaper than cafe delices and more traditional as well. Shisha for 7 DT, mint tea for 3 dinars.
Sleep
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Hotel Sidi Bou Fares
address: 15 rue Sidi Bou FaresRight in the centre of town. All rooms are based around a pretty central courtyard. They are rather small, but are en-suite. -
phone: +216 71 742 000address: 68 rue KennedyHotel by the seaside.
Go next
- Carthage — Phoenician colony, biggest trade metropolis of the antique world; famously razed by the Romans; remnants now encased in a museum; site easily reached by train from Tunis
- La Goulette
- La Marsa
- Quamart - a resort on Tunisia’s Mediterranean coast
- Tunis — the laid-back capital of Tunisia with a very authentic souk