Tokyo/Setagaya

Setagaya has a reputation as an upscale residential district, and features many areas of greenery. People get to experience the sophisticated yet wild atmosphere in the huge park called Setagaya Park (世田谷公園) which is approximately 15-minute-walk from Sangenjaya (三軒茶屋). The funky shopping and nightlife area of Shimokitazawa (下北沢), which is popular with students and young adults, is also located in the ward. Setagaya is also home to the shopping districts of Sangenjaya (三軒茶屋) and the newly revitalized Futako-Tamagawa (二子玉川), locally known as Nikotama. Some areas around Jiyūgaoka (自由が丘) also fall within Setagaya.

Shimokitazawa is on the Odakyū and Keio Inokashira train lines, just a quick hop from Shinjuku and Shibuya respectively. Most of the action is around the South Exit.
Sangenjaya and Futako-Tamagawa are on the Tōkyū Den-en-Toshi train line from Shibuya. Komazawa-Daigaku is also along this line and near Sangenjaya, and the Komazawa University campus is a few minutes from the station.
Jiyūgaoka is a transfer point for the Tōkyū Tōyoko and Ōimachi train lines. The Tōyoko Line is your best bet for getting into the southern sections of Setagaya from Shibuya or Central Yokohama. The Ōimachi Line, which originates in Ōimachi near Shinagawa, continues northward from Jiyūgaoka to Futako-Tamagawa to meet with the Den-en-Toshi line.

By train

The main train lines serving Setagaya are the Odakyu from Shinjuku to Odawara, the Keio line from Shinjuku to Takao-san, and the Keio Inokashira, Tokyu Toyoko, and Tokyu Denentoshi, all originating in Shibuya. Since all of these lines run generally westward from hubs on the Yamanote line, it can be somewhat difficult to travel north-south without going in to a hub and back out.
Also, select Tokyo Metro Chiyoda line trains (generally every thirty minutes) through-run from Ayase in Adachi Ward.
The only major connector line in the ward is the Tokyu Ōimachi line, which primarily serves residential communities to the extreme south located along the Tama River and Tokyo's #8 Ring Road (Kampachi-dori). The line can be used to connect between the Toyoko and Denentoshi lines without going back to Shibuya.
The Tokyu Setagaya line between Sangenjaya and Shimo-takaido is one of only two remaining streetcar lines in Tokyo.

• Carrot Tower

  address: 太子堂 4 chome 1-1
  This is the tallest building in Setagaya and contains a free observation deck on the 26th floor and Gamefreak Co. on the 22nd floor.

• Gotokuji Temple

  address: Gōtokuji 2 chome 24-7
  The origin of the maneki-neko or beckoning-cat statuettes that bring good fortune to Japanese merchants the world over.

• Hanegi Park

  phone: +81 3-5431-1822
  address: Daita 4 chome 38-52
  A public park, where kids can play freely with the Play Park facility.

• Kinuta Park

  address: Kinuta-koen 1-1
  A public park with a museum of modern art.

• Komazawa Olympic Park

  address: Komazawa koen 1
  A large public park, built for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics.

• Machiko Hasegawa Museum

  phone: +81 3 3701 8766
  address: 1-30-6 Sakurashinmachi
  Art museum dedicated to the works of Machiko Hasegawa, creator of Sazae-san, one of Japan's longest running comic strips and cartoons. Showcases include original drawings, clay dolls, and paintings.

• Setagaya Art Museum

  phone: +81 3 3415-6011
  address: 1-2 Kinutakoen
  Houses works by artists from the Primitivist School, such as Henri Rousseau.

• Tamagawadaishi

  phone: +81 3-3700-2561
  address: 4 Chome-13-3 Seta
  A Buddhist temple, and a branch of Kawasaki Daishi. It isn't very large and the location is in a nondescript residential area, but its curious attraction is hidden: an underground passageway that snakes its way under the building. There are statues and altars with lighting at various points, but much of the tunnel is in absolute darkness. It symbolizes a passage through the intestines of the Buddha (better not to dwell too much on the symbolism!) while the 88 Buddha statues in one of the chambers also symbolize the famous 88 Temple Pilgrimage in Shikoku.

• Todoroki ravineA natural canyon nestled in urban surroundings. With a small river and lush vegetation, it offers a pleasant natural environment.

• Setagaya Park

  phone: +81 3 3412-7841
  address: Ikejiri 1-5-27
  A public park with a pool, tennis courts, baseball grounds and so on. There is a mini steam train and a retired full-size steam locomotive for children to play on.

• Tollywood

  phone: +81 3-3414-0433
  address: Daizawa 5-32-5 2F
  This small theater (46 seats) specializes in independent short films, mostly Japanese. The films aren't dubbed or subtitled of course, but they're so offbeat and often bizarre that you're sure to have a good time anyway.

• Okuraland

  phone: +81 3-3420-0271
  address: Sakura 3-24-1
  Here you can go bowling or practice your golf swing. There are also batting cages.

• Kuhonbutsu River Green StreetTake a date, canine friend, or both for an afternoon stroll from Jiyugaoka to Kuhonbutsu. Lined with cherry trees (wonderful in spring), benches, shops and sidewalk cafes.

Northern Setagaya

Shimokitazawa has many quirky shops:

• ExSells artistic designed stuff like photo stands, postcards, clocks, accessories and so on.

• Yellow PopCarries an eclectic and well-stocked inventory of vinyl including punk, reggae, electronic, and hip-hop.

• Setagaya Boro-IchiA flea market that's held on the 15th and 16th of December and January each year. It's been drawing shoppers from all over Tokyo since it started in 1578. The main attraction is used clothing (such as kimonos) and antiques.

• DeptA good spot for used men's and women's clothes.

• Haight & Ashbury

  phone: +81 3-5453-4690
  address: Kitazawa 2-37-2
  Vintage clothes for girls. The interior decorations are very cute.

• Warszawa Records

  phone: +81 3 3467-1997
  address: 2-33-11 Kitazawa, Nozaki Building 2F
  For the best in deep underground/minimal wave/heavy vibes/freak folk goodness, check out Warszawa Records, possibly Tokyo's best underground record store. Stocking Night People, Sacred Bones, Mexican Summer, NNF, and more.

Central and Southern Setagaya

What Futako-Tamagawa perhaps lost in old-school charm and character it has gained in modernity and selection that rivals other major shopping areas in Tokyo. This recently revitalized station-front shopping area, which seems to have taken a peculiar design cue from nearby Tama Plaza, is anchored by two main shopping areas:

• Tamagawa-Takashimaya S.C.The original anchor, now renovated to keep up with its reputation as a fashion center, is home to many of the same international brand name boutiques you'd find in Ginza, Omotesandou, or Roppongi Hills. Many of its annexes are connected via pedestrian bridges or garden walkways.

• The Main Wing, South Wing, and West Wing along with Hanamizuki Court are across the street from the train station, and are home to numerous upscale brands such as Gucci, Burberry, and Lacoste. There is also a branch of Books Kinokuniya which, like its other locations across Japan, typically carries a decent selection of international publications.
• The East Wing, Keyaki Court, Garden Island and Marronnier Court are up the street on the same side of the station, and contain stores such as MUJI and Gap.

Futako-Tamagawa RiseNewly built complex of shopping centers and offices on the eastern end of the station.

• Rise Shopping Center and Dogwood Mall house many major domestic and international brand name stores, including H&M, Loft, Uniqlo, Oshman's, The North Face, and Francfranc.
• Oak Mall, Bird's Mall, and Plaza Mall are more local in flavor and are the new, modern homes for many of the businesses that were displaced by the redevelopment.

Jiyūgaoka has for a long time carried a somewhat trendy if not upscale caché. Some of its street-front stores include independent and chain apparel stores (most of which cater to women), and various zakka establishments.

Northern Setagaya

Shimokitazawa is your best option for restaurants and bars.

• Buon Sangue

  phone: +81 3-3411-7776
  address: 4-20-7 B1F
  Excellent Italian traditional restaurant, with several different type of pasta, meat, fish. Wood-oven made pizza is available on the ground floor.

• KURA

  address: at Yutenji, with others at Gotanda, Shibuya, Nakameguro, and Yotsuka-ichi-shi
  This is an Italian restaurant - pasta, risotto, pizza, etc. All menu items are very inexpensive.

• La Befana

  phone: +81 3-3411-9500
  address: 5-31-3 Daita
  Good pizza from wood-fired stone oven, something you will be missing if you are staying for a long time in Japan. The lunch menu is excellent.

• Setagaya

  phone: +81 3-3418-6938
  address: Nozawa 2-1-2 1F
  A famous ramen restaurant.

• Shiro-Hige’s Cream Puff Factory

  phone: +81 3-5787-6221
  address: 5-3-1 Setagaya-Daita
  Bakery specializing in adorable Totoro-shaped cream puffs (pictures).

• Sunday Brunch

  phone: +81 3-5453-3366
  address: Kitazawa 2-29-2 2F
  The French toast is very tasty.

• Trocadero

  phone: +81 3-3476-1991
  address: Kitazawa 3-30-3
  Trocadero is an authentic French bistro. How authentic? The entire store was brought over from France.

• Village Vanguard

  address: Daita 6-3-1
  Hamburger shop that has many kind of very delicious hamburgers.

• Ushi Tora

  phone: +81 3-3485-9090
  address: Setagaya Ward, Kitazawa 2-9-3 2F
  Two bars. One with tables & chairs, allows tobacco smoking, and accepts a credit card. One space over, a standing bar with more beers on tap, is non-smoking, and takes only cash.

Central and Southern Setagaya

Komazawa and surroundings

• BOTERO

  phone: +81 3-3410-5922
  address: Komazawa 1-17-17
  Regular holiday is Tuesday.

• Cheese Cake Factory

  phone: +81 3-5716-5401
  address: Yo-ga 4-28-18
  Just what it says: it's a cheese cake shop.

• Dining cafe Tsunami

  phone: +81 3-3424-0273
  address: 〒154-0012 Komazawa 1-3-1
  Hawaiian food restaurant near Komazawa Station.

• Patisserie NAOKI

  phone: +81 3-3422-3167
  address: Komazawa 1-4-12 1F

Futako-Tamagawa is home to both high-brow and casual cuisine alike, most of it concentrated around the train station's shopping areas. As is the case with many other shopping areas across Japan, the restaurants on the higher floors offer supreme dining experiences with great views, and the prices to match.

• Hinano

  address: Rise Shopping Center 7F
  Buffet-style restaurant focused on organic foods; balanced selection of both Japanese and Western dishes. Windows seats have surprisingly good views.

• Kua'Aina

  address: Dogwood Plaza 7F
  Branch of the Hawaiian-American burger joint found in on both sides of the Pacific.

• Moti

  address: Dogwood Plaza 7F
  Moderately priced Indian food with a great view. Vegetarian options.

• Natural CrewBright and pretty shop serving healthy Japanese food, brown rice, lots of vegetarian dishes including a tofu preparation that looks and tastes like karaage. They also serve locally-crafted beer. Portions are small so better add the 100¥ for extra rice.

• Starbucks

  address: Dogwood Plaza 1F
  While its ubiquity usually negates any need of mentioning, this particular location somewhat breaks from typical cookie-cutter mold through its unique seating arrangement and indoor garden setting.

Jiyūgaoka is fairly well-known for its mom-and-pop establishments, especially bakeries and pastry shops.

• Jiyugaoka Burger

  address: Jiyugaoka 1-3-15 4F, Meguro-ku
  Domestically-sourced, organic and THICK burgers in a lush balcony setting.

• Jiyugaoka Sweets Forest

  address: Midorigaoka 2-25-7, Meguro-ku
  Cheerfully themed modern food park of sorts that brings together all kinds of kawaii-inspired sweets in one place.

• Kochoo

  address: Okusawa 6-22-12, Setagaya-ku
  Specializes in sundubu, a Korean stew which actually has roots in Los Angeles. All-you-can-eat banchan, which is common practice in Korea but rare in Japan!

• Mangetsu Korean Cuisine

  address: Hills Spiga 2F, Jiyugaoka 1-14-16, Meguro-ku
  Korean-run establishment with an intimate atmosphere, great for an evening date. Good chijimi!

• Peko

  address: Okusawa 5-27-19, Setagaya-ku
  Though their specialty is pizza, the peperonchini soup pasta is beyond words for garlic lovers.

• Bear Pond Espresso

  phone: +81 3-5454-2486
  address: 2-36-12 Kitazawa
  World-class espresso (very short ristretto with “sticky” texture) and excellent coffee, in a stylish, NY-style space. Ok to buy cupcakes from across the street. Ask before taking pictures.

• Ushi-Tora

  phone: +81 3-3485-9090
  address: 2-9-3 Kitazawa
  Seemingly in direct competition to Kura Kura, Ushi-Tora also offers a wide selection of Japanese and U.S. microbrews on tap.

• Mother

  phone: +81 3-3421-9519
  address: Daizawa 5-36-14
  Multi-ethnic food and an interesting selection of imported beers, in a cave-like, Gaudi-inspired setting. If you come for food, make sure you have time to kill, as the kitchen works at a rather leisurely pace.

• The B Sangenjaya

  phone: +81 3 3795-0505
  address: 2-17-9 Taishido
  A business style hotel convenient to transport.