Ubud

While Ubud seems to outsiders like one small town, it is in fact fourteen villages, each run by its own banjar (village committee). Ubud has grown rapidly, and some central parts are creaking under the strain of coping with the number of visitors. That said, most development is sympathetic to the zeitgeist, if not designed specifically in the local style. Growth continues apace, but there are still terraced rice fields along the rivers, and away from the town centre, regular, quiet village life carries on relatively undisturbed.

History

In many ways, the history of the Ubud area (not so much the modern day town) is the very history of Bali itself.
Ubud has a known history back to the eighth century, when the Javanese Buddhist priest Rsi Marhandya came to Bali from Java, and meditated at the confluence of the two Wos rivers at Campuan, just west of the modern day town centre. A shrine was established and later expanded by Nirartha, the Javanese priest who is regarded as the founder of Bali's religious practices and rituals as we know them today. At this time the area was a centre of natural medicine and healing, and that is how the name Ubud originated: Ubad is ancient Balinese for medicine.
Further temples and monasteries were established over the next 400 years or so. The temple complex at Gunung Kawi, and the cave temples at Goa Gajah (just east and northeast of Ubud), are architectural remains from this period. Many of the dances, drama and rituals still practised in Ubud today, originated at this time. King Airlangga ruled all of Java and Bali in this era, and his seat of government was located in what is now the village of Batuan, just southeast of Ubud.
The Javanese Majapahit kingdom conquered Bali in 1343, and the key final victory was against the Pejeng Dynasty centred at Bedulu, just to the east of Ubud. A great flowering of Balinese culture followed, and the ancestry of Ubud's current day aristocratic families can be traced back to this period. In the sixteenth Century, there was a total transplantation of the Majapahit Kingdom to Bali as the Islamisation of Java forced them eastwards. Power flip-flopped between various dynasties and feudal lords, but the Ubud area remained a very important cog in the various regencies which ruled the island.

In 1900, Ubud became a Dutch protectorate at its own request, and the colonialists interfered little, allowing the traditional arts and culture of the area to remain relatively unchanged. The modern era of Ubud perhaps began in the 1930s, when foreign artists were encouraged by the royal family to take up presence in the town. From their Ubud base, the likes of Walter Spies and Rudolph Bonnet were instrumental in promoting an understanding of Balinese art and culture worldwide. From the 1960s onwards, travellers started to arrive in earnest, mostly intrepid types as the infrastructure was still very limited indeed. Since then, Ubud has developed rapidly into a high-profile, top-class international destination, whilst still maintaining its integrity as the centre of Balinese art and culture.

Orientation

Orienting yourself in Ubud is fairly straightforward. The town sprawls for several kilometres in all directions, with all of the small villages within a five km radius of the central market being loosely referred to as "Ubud". If you choose a reasonably central place to stay, it is easy enough to get around on foot.
Central Ubud has three main streets: Jl Raya Ubud, Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Hanoman. At the intersection of Jl Raya and Jl Monkey Forest are Ubud Market, Ubud Palace, and the main bemo stop — unsurprisingly, there's also a near-permanent traffic jam here.
Jl Monkey Forest, which runs south through town to the Monkey Forest, is a built-up area, and home to a wide array of accommodation, art galleries, and cafes, as well a number of local services such as schools, a sports field, pharmacies, and travel agents. Jl Hanoman, which runs parallel to Jl Monkey Forest just to the east, is a bit quieter and makes for more pleasant walking.
To the immediate west and northwest are the villages of Campuan (Tjampuhan, Campuhan) and Kedewatan, home to some of the most upmarket hotels in the whole of Asia, with views over valleys sculpted by the Ayung and Wos rivers.
Directly to the south, past the Monkey Forest and still within a twenty minute walk of the central market, is Padang Tegal which then runs into the southern villages of Nyuh Kuning and Pengosekan, about three km from central Ubud. Directly to the east is the village of Peliatan, and then Teges and Bedulu, home of the ninth century Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave).

Climate

Due to its elevation at about 200 m above sea level, Ubud enjoys cooler temperatures than the coast, and it is sometimes necessary to bring a pullover for the evening. The midday sun can still be scorching though and the humidity often relentless; a murderous combination for an outing of 'temple tramping' which, in hilly Ubud, usually requires climbing up and down staircases. (Head out early to beat the heat and the crowds.) If there is a time to avoid, it would be the depths of the wet season in January and February — when it rains in Ubud, it really rains.

Tourism information office

• Bina Wisata

  phone: +62 361 973285
  address: Jl Raya Ubud
  Not especially helpful, but they always have a few leaflets, and local businesses advertise current events there.

By bemo

There are regular public bemos from Denpasar's Batubulan terminal to Ubud which cost 50,000IDR and take about an hour. Most bemos run in the early morning, and in the later of the day it is getting difficult to find a bemo leaving and drivers try to pursue tourist to hire entire vehicle for 200-300,000IDR, and you will not find any after 4PM. In the opposite direction, bemos depart every morning from the central market (northern entrance) in Ubud.

By taxi or car

If you want to take a taxi to Ubud from South Bali, it is best to charter the vehicle for a return trip, otherwise, you'll be hit with a 30% fee for going out-of-town. Metered fares, one-way and not including surcharge, are around Rp 150,000 from Denpasar and Rp 200,000 from Kuta. You can also rent a car in Kuta for a day in some local rental company around 15-25$, will be also useful to explore the extended vicinity.

By bus

Perama offers daily direct transfers to Ubud from Sanur, Lovina, Kuta, Bedugul, Candidasa, and Padang Bai. When coming from Ngurah Rai International Airport you need to take a taxi to Perama's Kuta branch first, when going to the airport direct transfers exist. These are convenient and inexpensive; e.g. four times per day to the airport for Rp 50,000. Rather less conveniently, the Perama terminal is not located in the centre of Ubud, but about two km south in Padang Tegal, on Jl Hanoman just south of the intersection with Jl Monkey Forest. From Kuta to Ubud cost 60,000rps.
You can go to the "official Tourist Information" (just in the middle of town, on the big crossroad, opposite the market at Monkey Forest Road/Jalan Raya Road) and buy your ticket there (official outlet, same price) and Perama will pick you up there, to transfer to the Perama Bus Hub out of Town.

Central Ubud can be covered on foot, but you will need some form of transport to explore the extended vicinity.
Central Ubud is overrun with tourists and touts, and traffic is terrible—cars are frequently stuck in traffic, pedestrians have to dodge motorcycles, and everyone has to deal with the noise and smell from so many vehicles in a small area. The nearby villages are much quieter. The sidewalks are often blocked by motorbikes, or a collapsed section necessitates a step off the sidewalk potentially placing you in the path of traffic. That traffic could be a tricycle or a truck, so keep your wits about you.

By bemo

Bemos ply the main routes in and around Ubud, and the main stop and gathering point is Ubud market at the junction of Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Raya Ubud. Most bemos stop running in the late afternoon, and are always more frequent in the morning.

By taxi

No metered taxis operate in Ubud, and any you see will be dropping off passengers from further afield.
You may however encounter many locals offering a taxi, who sometimes are very persistent. These are not actual taxis, but "local cars" (see below).
If you do not need a taxi, it's best to avoid eye contact with those offering a ride, as they may follow you with offers of tours of the area, etc. If you are continually being harassed, a polite "no thank you" (or "tidak terima kasih", the Indonesian equivalent) may work.

By local car

Most local transport comes in the form of SUVs or minivans that can be hired with a driver for specific trips. Look for the circular yellow "E" logo on the windshield certifying them as Ubud Transport Association members. You can (and should) haggle a bit over the price, and pay less than for the equivalent journey in a metered taxi. A short trip should be less than Rp 20,000, and drivers will be glad to wait for you for a return fare.
Also, there are guys on motorbikes who will also offer bike rides (ojek) and are about half the price of those in a car.

By hotel car

Many hotels are located out of town, and are happy to offer regular, complimentary drop-off and pick-up services to central Ubud. Expect to pay higher than taxi prices if you are intending to go further afield.

By motorbike

As elsewhere in Bali, motorbike rental is widely available, and you will not be short of options. Expect to pay between Rp 40,000 and 80,000 per day for a late model motorbike in good condition. Look for rental agencies on all the main streets, or ask your hotel to organise for you. Navigation can be confusing, as signage is limited and all the roads look pretty much the same at first, but take it easy and stop to ask for directions if (when) you get lost.

By bicycle

You can rent bicycles for about Rp 20,000-30,000 per day. There is a large selection available at the corner of the football field on Jl Monkey Forest. Beware though: Ubud is very hilly, so cycling can be hard, sweaty work. Traffic on the main roads is heavy and drivers rarely pay heed to cyclists.

By ride hailing app

There are lots of signs in Ubud saying taxi apps (like Grab, Blue Bird, and Gojek) are prohibited. You may or may not have success calling one anyway if you try.

Ubud is so crammed with attractions it can almost seem like a visual assault at times. Try to make sure you allocate at least a week for your visit here, and take your time to explore properly. Visitors who jump up to Ubud for just two or three days of their Bali holiday, stand little chance of understanding much of what is going on around them.
The key historical sites are located out of town, some as far as 20 km away, and you might find it worthwhile joining a tour to visit these. If you do visit attractions such as Goa Gajah, Gunung Kawi, Pura Kehen and Tirta Empul under your own steam, try to find a knowledgeable guide when you get there. Whilst you will certainly appreciate the beauty of these places, their cultural and spiritual significance may be lost without a guide.

Temples and historical sites

• Goa Gajah

  address: Jalan Goa Gajah
  The centerpiece here is a cave dating back to the ninth century, the entrance to which is an ornately carved demon's mouth. Inside are some fragmentary lingam and yoni statues, as well as a statue of Ganesha. Large, carved guards stand around pools near the entrance, and a little path leads to a waterfall, rice fields, and some Buddhist stupa fragments. Some parts of the Goa Gajah complex were not excavated until the 1950s. Nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

• Gunung Kawi

  address: Tampaksiring
  Dating from the eleventh century, this is presumed to be the burial complex of King Anak Wungsu and his many wives. Reached by climbing down 371 steps, the location at the bottom of a steep valley lined with paddy fields, is quite stunning. The smaller complex on the south side of the river is presumed to have been built for the King's wives, while the larger complex is thought to have been the residence of the King himself, and perhaps his concubines. The structures are carved into the sides of a steep river valley, and the river crossed by twisting trees and vines. You must take off your shoes before entering into the central pura complex. About 1 km downstream there are further tomb cloisters. On the way back up, take a break at Cafe Kawi which has cold drinks for Rp 10,000 and up. If you haggle for a taxi from Ubud, it should cost no more than Rp 150,000 to get there and back, with the driver waiting for you while you make the visit. Sarong is included in the entry and free, so you can ignore the ladies in the parking lot trying to sell you one

• Pura Kehen

  address: Jl Sriwijaya, Bangli
  One of the most attractive temples in the whole of Bali, and as it is slightly off the beaten path, one which receives relatively few visitors. The temple was founded in 1206, and has an especially impressive 11-tiered meru in the inner courtyard. When you visit here take a little extra time to look around Bangli. It is a quiet and attractive market town.

• Puri Saren AgungThis was the palace of the kings of Ubud until the 1940s, and some royal descendants live there to this day. Parts of the complex are off limits to the public, but entry to the rest is free, and this is Ubud's best setting for dance performances (see Do).

• Tirta Empul

  address: Tampaksiring
  One of the holiest temples in Bali built around hot springs that still bubble in the central courtyard. The Balinese come here to bathe and purify themselves physically and spiritually, and during Galungan, the sacred barong masks are bathed here. The complex dates to 960, but the present buildings are largely modern reconstructions.

• Yeh Pulu

  address: Banjar Batulumbang, Bedulu nr Gianyar
  This complex of rock carvings is close to Goa Gajah but far less well known. The carvings date from the fourteenth or fifteenth century, and are set in a very attractive rice field. You can reach Yeh Pulu on foot through the rice fields from Goa Gajah, but you will definitely need a guide for the 45 minute walk as there is no path to speak of. In addition to the carvings, there is a holy well here, and the attendant priest will be happy to bless you with the well water. Temple dress code applies. This is a much underrated and under-visited site, and is highly recommended.

• Chapel of Mother Goddess, Rajarajeshwari Tripurasundari

  phone: +62 818 701658
  address: Jl. Sri Wedari Km 3
  A modern chapel dedicated to the feminine aspect of the divine, such as Kuan Shih Yin, Mary Magdalene, Mother Mary, Lakshmi, Durga, Kali, Saraswati, Gayatri and others.

Museums and galleries

• Agung Rai Museum of Art

  phone: +62 361 975742
  address: Jl Pengosekan
  Showcases works by well known Balinese artists, as well as international artists who made Bali their home such as Walter Spies, Adrian Jean Le Mayeur, Rudolph Bonnet and Arie Smit. The only painting in Bali by renowned Javanese artist Radan Saleh is exhibited here. They also run workshops for thirteen different aspects of Balinese art and culture. Cafe with tea and coffee. Price includes tea or coffee (hot or cold).

• Blanco Renaissance Museum

  phone: +62 361 975502
  address: Jl Raya Campuhan
  Before he passed away in 1999, Spanish artist Antonio Blanco was an absolute fixture on the Ubud art scene. His former home is now a museum showcasing his sometimes bizarre but always interesting work. Think Salvador Dali transplanted to Asia. In the garden you can take pictures of the exotic birds flying around.

• Museum Puri Lukisan

  address: Jl Raya Ubud
  When it opened in 1954, this was the first private museum in Bali. Three buildings showcase traditional and modern Balinese art. The displays are a little musty and English labeling is spotty, but some of the works, particularly the carvings, are quite amazing. Exhibits by noted artists I Gusti Nyoman Lempad and Rudolph Bonnet, among others.

• Museum Rudana

  phone: +62 361 975779
  address: Jl Cok Rai Pudak 44
  A wide range of Balinese paintings is exhibited here, both traditional and modern. Run by its owner, artist Nyoman Rudana, who is often present.

• Neka Art Museum

  phone: +62 361 975074
  address: Jl Raya Campuhan, Kedewatan
  This museum houses perhaps the most important art collection in the whole of Bali. Six pavilions house the various collections which include dedicated rooms for artists Arie Smit and I Gusti Nyoman Lempad. See beautiful depictions of Balinese life in times past as well as contemporary works, both by Balinese artists and by the foreign artists who settled here. Mainly paintings but also some sculptures and photography,

• Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women

  phone: +62 361 975485
  address: Jl Sriwedari 2B
  This gallery features art only by women; "Seni" is Indonesian for art and "Wati" means women.

Landscape

The area around Ubud is characterised by gently rolling rice paddies, and these create an impression of greenness which can be quite startlingly beautiful. This is especially true to the south and southeast of the town. Any visitor approaching from the south will appreciate this and it is worth a stop just to absorb the gentle beauty of it all.
Far more off the beaten path is to explore the rice fields immediately north of town. A good route is to take Jl Raya eastwards from the town centre and turn north up the small road immediately adjacent to the BCA Bank building. Proceed up this road through the village of Kutuh and just keep going, turning where you feel like it. This is a very gentle, rural area with some lovely landscape. A great way to explore is by bicycle as there are no steep hills to negotiate here.

On the opposite side of town in the Campuhaun, Sanggingan, and Kedewatan areas, the landscape changes dramatically as great gorges have been carved out of the limestone land base by the Ayung and Wos rivers. It's no surprise that so many five star hotels have made their home in these lush, dramatic valleys. Opportunities for viewing these gorges are many. You can just find your own way and explore by motorbike (it is very hard work by bicycle as the hills are steep). Head west out of town over the Campuhan Bridge and just start exploring. The main road here is Jl Raya Sanggingan, and if you continue heading away from town you will reach the junction with Jl Raya Kedewatan. From that point you can turn in either direction and just keep exploring. Alternatively, you can stop into a hotel or restaurant, have a drink or lunch, and gaze out in very civilised surroundings. If your pockets are deep, the restaurant at the Four Seasons in Sayan probably has the best views of all of the Ayung Gorge. A more budget conscious option is the lovely Indus restaurant in Sanginngan, with tables facing out to the Wos River.

• TegallalangNortheast of Ubud, the land starts to become more undulating, and this is a good place to view Bali's classic rice terraces. This village is somewhat a tourist trap, but it is worth braving the hordes of trinket peddlers to view the stunning terraces. From the town center, take Jl Raya as far east as you can go, and then turn north and continue about nine km until you reach Tegallalang. Look for the picture postcard rice terraces on you right-hand side. For those moving on north to the Kintamani area, this is on route and makes for an easy stop.

Others

• Bali Bird Park

  phone: +62 361 299352
  address: Jl Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir, Singapadu
  A splendid 2-hectare aviary park with more than 250 species of birds in well thought out, attractive enclosures. The park has an enlightened, modern attitude to exhibiting animals, and this is obvious from the very open, walk-in aviaries, and the number of free range birds throughout the park. Also has a notably good cafe. One of Bali's best formal attractions.

• Botanic Garden

  address: Kutuh Kaja
  The recently opened Botanic Garden is a wonderful way to spend a few hours walking around and exploring the valley that it fills. It is best to go in the morning and avoid the afternoon heat.

• Monkey Forest

  phone: +62 361 971304
  address: Jl Monkey Forest
  A sacred forest full of monkeys, which are not at all afraid of people and will happily come quite close to you and maybe even climb on your shoulders or head if you're not careful! They love to look in backpacks for things to steal and often take people's sunglasses or wallets. Don't bring any food or you will risk bites and a need for rabies injections. If you are bitten, visit the first aid clinic near the entrance at the bottom of Jalan Monkey Forest. Stroll through to find Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, a temple of the dead. A visit to the very informative website beforehand is highly recommended.

• The White Herons of Petulu

  address: Petulu
  Every evening between 15,000 and 20,000 cattle egrets, known colloquially as white herons and in Balinese, kokokan, roost in the village of Petulu just ten minutes north of Ubud. It is quite a spectacle as these large, elegant white and rusty orange birds arrive in countless groups and tussle for the prime roosting spots. Each morning at dawn they leave en-masse to find feeding spots around the island. Some also breed in the area and nests can be seen in the roadside trees. The cattle egrets are joined by smaller numbers of little egrets and Javan pond herons.
  According to local legend, the egrets first appeared here in such large numbers after one of the worst massacres of suspected communists during the troubles of 1965. This led local villagers to believe that these birds are the souls of the slaughtered, and ceremonies to that effect are still held today.
  The village of Petulu is reached by heading east from Ubud town centre on Jl Raya Ubud until you meet the obvious junction with Jl Raya Andong. Turn left, and go up the hill for about 2 km until you see the sign posted left turning on Jalan Kintamani to Petulu village. Go into the village and you will see signs and warungs set up in the best places to view the spectacle. Get there by 5:30PM.

As a centre of the arts, Ubud has dance and shadow puppet performances every night. There are also plenty of spas for resynchronising your chakras, and all manner of spiritual classes and treatments, some distinctly less genuine than others.

Art courses

• Bali Center for Artistic Creativity (BCAC)

  phone: +62 361 970034
  address: Jl Raya Petulu
  Art studio nestled in beautiful grounds and galleries offering art classes from beginners to teachers, and internationally accredited courses run by Bruce Sherratt.

Cooking classes

• Payuk Bali Home Cooking Class

  phone: +62 361 8987854
  address: Banjar Laplapan Ubud Bali
  Traditional Balinese cooking such as sate lilit, Balinese salad, and nasi kuning.

• Paon Bali Cooking Class

  phone: +62 813 37939095
  address: Laplapan Village
  Traditional Balinese cooking class in the home of a very hospitable family. They offer a pick-up in Ubud.

• Pemulan Bali - Balinese Farm Cooking School

  phone: +6281239534446
  address: Banjar Patas, Desa Taro, Tegallalang
  A new community project to save the organic farmer in the village. They have the cooking classes every day for vegetarians and meat lovers. The program consists of a visit to a local market, an organic farm tour, picking some ingredients for cooking and hands-on cooking experience (you will cook your food).

• Ubad Ubud Bali Cooking Class

  phone: +62 82236177779
  address: Jln. Ki Pasung Grigis, Banjar Tengkulak Kaja, Desa Kemenuh
  Introduction to the exotic ingredients and unique culinary heritage of Bali, set in Balinese compound.

Cultural performances

• Barong Dance

  address: Batubulan
  A Barong dance performance takes place here every day at 9:30AM, lasting about an hour. It is very much a performance for tourists, and the story is of the never ending battle between good and evil. There is actually not much dancing and a lot of talking in this performance. While buying a ticket, you will get a description of the forthcoming performance.

• Pura Dalem

  address: Jl Raya Ubud
  One of the best kecak performances in Ubud, every Friday and Monday evening. Staged in beautiful surroundings outside under the banyan trees, and followed by a fire dance. Excellent ambiance and the fire dance at the end is impressive. A leaflet in several languages is at disposal to understand the illustrated Ramayana story. However, parts of the performance can get repetitive.

• Puri Saren & Puri Saraswati

  address: Jl Raya Ubud
  Smack dab in the centre of town, dance performances are staged here almost nightly.

Spas

• Bali Healing

  phone: +62 361 7911104
  address: Jl Hanoman 43, Padang Tegal
  Even for the experienced massage consumer, this six bed massage centre is an experience. A 1 hs massage is about Rp 80,000. Magic warm stone massage for Rp 120,000. Several other deep tissue and reflexology treatments are available

• Bamboo Bali Spa

  phone: +62 82247606797
  address: Jalan Raya Ubud No. 5
  Friendly and attentive service in a comfortable setting, with interiors featuring soft cream colours and tasteful ornaments. The therapists deliver top-notch therapeutic massages. You can enjoy cups of comforting rosella or ginger tea at the cosy seating area after treatment.

• Sang Spa

  phone: +62 361 8631816
  address: Jl Jembawan 13
  Small full-service day spa, owned and run by a young couple named Ngurah and Asti. Simple, secluded, clean and nicely decorated. Very professional staff.

• SenS Spa

  phone: +62 361 849 3328
  address: 1 Jalan Sukma, junction of Jalan Raya Ubud and Jalan Sukma
  SenS Spa, inside the SenS Hotel & Spa, features 1 couples treatment suite, 2 single suites and 3 foot reflexology stations.

• Spa Hati

  phone: +62 361 974 672
  address: Jl Raya Andong 14, Peliatan
  Prices start at Rp 110,000. The grounds are lovely and there is a pool and jacuzzi. This spa is a non-profit organisation which uses its income for charity programs. They offer pick up from your hotel.

• Ubud Sari Health Resort

  phone: +62 361 974393
  address: Jl Kajeng 35
  Emphasis on Balinese-style healing therapy. Offers alternative health care, a day spa, beauty salon, health massage, vegetarian restaurant and yoga.

• Verona Spa

  phone: +62 361 970975
  address: Jl Monkey Forest
  Private individual or coupled rooms that open onto a rice terrace. 4 hour package called the Verona Spa Experience has a massage, body scrub, flower bath, facial, manicure, pedicure, and hair creme bath (not to be missed if you like having your head massaged).

• Tamarind Spa

  phone: +62 361 970923
  address: Jalan Raya, Ubud
  Excellent spa with professional and well qualified therapists. which attracts rave reviews. Full spa menu and spa packages menu. They are also able to give massage training lessons. www.murnis.com.

• Pertenin Body Care

  phone: +62 361 972834
  address: Jl Jatayu
  Facial treatments and massage in a relaxing, modern environment. Customer may select the oils and herbs for any treatment.

Canyoning activities

• Adventure & Spirit

  phone: +62 85 333 88 55 98
  address: Jl Raya Mas - Ubud
  Canyoning is an ultimate outdoor adventure and sport using a variety of techniques that may include walking, abseiling, jumping, sliding down natural slopes and swimming in white water for aquatic canyons. And of course discover beautiful and hidden places at the heart of Balinese nature.

Whitewater rafting and other outdoor activities

There is good rafting available on the Ayung River at Sayan, just west of Ubud. Almost as good as the rafting itself is the wonderful experience of being right down inside the Ayung gorge. This is the domain of high-end resorts like the Four Seasons and Amandari, and it is a very scenic area indeed. The rapids are Class II and Class III, and best during the rainy season as the river can run a bit dry from June to September. There are two well established operators, both with offices on the main road in Sayan, close to Amandari, however other operators have sprung up recently as well.
White Water Rafting become the most popular attraction.

• Ayung River Rafting

  phone: +6281 558 418 737
  address: Jl Raya Ir. Soekarno
  Free hotel transfer, 2.5 hours rafting experience. Guide, all boats in good condition, waterproof bag, helmets, lunch and insurance also included. They also do volcano climbs, countryside cycle tour, etc.

Cycle tours are an increasingly widespread and popular option.

• Bali Countryside Cycling

  phone: +62 81 558 418 737
  address: Jl Raya Ir. Soekarno
  A/C hotel return, 3.5 hours downhill biking, Light Breakfast, Bike and Safety equipment, Guide, Mineral water en route, Lunch and Insurance covered.

• Bali Bintang Tour

  phone: +62 361 981699
  address: Jl Raya Pejeng - Tampaksiring
  Hotel transfer, light breakfast overlooking Mt. Batur, well maintained bikes, water en route, lunch, insurance covered.

• Bali Bagus Cycling Tours

  phone: +62 85253 000099
  address: Jl Raya Pengosekan
  Offers many opportunities to discover the countryside.

• Bali Budaya Eco Tours

  phone: +62 361 975557
  address: Jl Raya Pengosekan
  Free pickup from hotel, breakfast with a view of Mount Batur, visit to coffee plantation, downhill cycling through rice paddies and villages, visit to a Balinese family compound, optional flat/uphill cycling and a generous buffet lunch. Two guides per group, bikes in good condition, helmets, water also included. Also do volcano climbs, jungle treks, etc.

• Bali Bike Adventures

  phone: +62 361 9234 627
  address: Laplapan Village
  Includes return hotel transfer, mountain bike with safety helmet, breakfast, towel and mineral water, all entrance fees, professional guide, buffet lunch, insurance covered for each participant.

• Bali Hai Adventures Specialist

  phone: +62 878 62331333
  address: Jl Raya Astina Timur, Gianyar
  See the Bali countryside at a leisurely pace on a bicycle. Includes private A/C van (min 2 pax booking), mountain bike and safety helmet, breakfast and lunch, fruit and mineral water on tour, entrance fees and personal insurance coverage.

• Bali Adventure Tours

  phone: +62 361 721480
  Established in 1989, one of the first whitewater rafting adventures in Bali. They offer packages that include their elephant safari park & lodge, cycling, rafting and an elephant safari. Free pickup from hotel. US$100,000 insurance is provided.

• Sobek Bali Utama

  phone: +62 361 287059
  Specialise in white-water rafting and cycling tours. Established in 1989, this was the first company of its type in Bali, and they are distinctly less package-oriented than their main competitor.

Yoga and meditation

• Taman Hati Yoga and Meditation Center

  phone: +62 361 974739
  address: Banjar Nyuh Kuning
  This centre was founded in 2000 by two local men, both from families containing many generations of Hindu priests. Set up for both complete beginners, and those already experienced but wishing to broaden their horizons. Every Wednesday at 7:30PM, there is a free class entitled "World Peace Meditation".

• Ubud Yoga Centre

  phone: +62 361 970460
  address: Jl Raya Sanggingan
  Expat-run centre offers everything from single attendance classes up to residential yoga instructor training courses.

• The Yoga Barn

  phone: +62 361 970992
  address: Jl Hanoman, Pengosekan
  Range of classes and an excellent set of teachers mostly in the Ashtanga/Vinnyasa school. Upper studio has great views of the surrounding rice terraces. Residential packages, multiple day classes and simple single entry classes. If you are a teacher, they offer the possibility of renting the centre to host your classes.

• Anand Ashram@Ubud

  phone: +62 818 701658
  address: Jl. Sriwedari Km 3
  Non-profit institution offering yoga, meditation, satsang, kirtan, bed and breakfast. Visiting teachers and students are welcome to use the space for their programs and stay on donation basis.

• Bali Yoga School

  address: Jl. Campuhan III, Singakerta
  Offers yoga classes with a creative blend of the classical and modern yoga philosophies. Their courses in Bikram, Iyengar, Ashtanga, Dharma, and Forrest Yoga are challenging but can heal physical and mental problems with fun.

Ubud has a vast assortment of art and jewelry shops. Head for the boutique type stores on Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Raya Ubud for higher quality goods (with appropriately higher prices), or down to the market for bulk-produced cheapies.

• Ubud MarketThis is a double storey warren of stalls bursting at the seams with wood carvings, batik shirts, sarongs, and all manner of other souvenirs aimed specifically at tourists. The merchants here haggle with tourists for a living, and think nothing of asking for ten times the going price, so try to establish a baseline before you go in to buy. Most of the merchants downstairs will lose interest if you try to get a reasonable price. It is better to try the shops upstairs where you will find the same products often for sale at lower prices. You will still need to use your best bargaining skills of course. Try to avoid the period from 11AM-2PM when tour buses from further afield tend to arrive en-masse. :If hiring a car for a day, it might be worth it to make a stop in Tegallalang, where they are geared more towards wholesale buyers. The Sukawati Market is crowded and sells trinkets in bulk as well, but quality is dubious.

Craft villages between Ubud and Sanur

The 25 km road to Ubud from Sanur in the south passes through a series of small towns and villages which specialize in the production of particular arts and crafts. The towns are Batubulan/Singakerta for stone carvings, Celuk for silver jewellery, Batuan for paintings, and Mas for wood carvings. The whole area is sometimes referred to as the "craft villages" of Bali, although it is all a bit more built-up and congested than one might infer from the term "village."
This is the best area to see and buy a wide variety of Balinese craftwork in a short period of time. There are many large showrooms where arts and crafts in the Balinese style are offered for sale. Nearly all organised day-tours of central Bali stop at one or more of these showrooms (and the tour operators usually have a financial tie-up with the places where they stop, collecting a commission on purchases.) Be careful, many of these shops specialise in pricing based on huge commissions to the drivers and tour busses.

Other shops & markets

• Ganesha Bookstore

  address: Jl Raya
  Second hand bookstore. Also has great range of new books about Bali and Indonesia. Been around since 1986 and now has a second branch in Seminyak.

• Pondok Pecak Library

  phone: +62 361 976194
  address: Jl Monkey Forest
  This privately run community library often has decent fiction and other books for sale. By buying here you are supporting their mission to make free books available to Balinese schoolkids. When you visit, check to see if they have any cultural performances coming up. Also has a small cafe serving home-made snacks.

• Sukawati Art Market

  address: Sukawati
  This huge market is like a one-stop centre for all the craft villages between Sanur and Ubud. Many souvenir shop owners from around Bali wholesale purchase their items here, and prices are considerably lower than in the tourist centers like Kuta, Sanur, and Ubud town centre. For a taste of everyday, go to the food and produce market opposite the art market.

• Threads of Life

  phone: +62 361 972187
  address: Jl Kajeng 24
  A fair trade store that stocks commercially made, traditional hand-woven textiles from Bali and all points east in Indonesia. Or better yet, go to the shops that are actually from the villages and outer islands like Timor and Flores, and specialize in traditional weavings.

Ubud is renowned in Bali for its wide range of restaurants, and is probably second only to Seminyak in terms of the quality of the offerings. Travelers on a budget will not be short of options, as there are many simple warungs serving up the standard Indonesian staples.

Budget

• Bubu Warung

  address: Jl Penestanan Kelod
  Healthy and delicious Balinese cuisine with plenty of choices on the menu. If you have any special requests, Ibu Made will be happy to cater for you.

• Dewa Warung

  address: Jl Goutama
  Dewa's is one of the better cheap places to eat in town. Serves all the usual Balinese and Indonesian dishes. Most mains Rp 24,000 - 36,000.

• Ibu Oka Warung Babi Guling

  address: Jl Suweta
  A Bali culinary experience. The babi guling (spit-roasted pig) here is world-famous, and this humble eating place is virtually a place of pilgrimage. The roast pork is served with rice and spiced veggies, order the special (Rp 55,000) to get a bit of everything — including offal and blood sausage. There are normal tables and chairs but you can also sit on the floor at low tables inside the bale (pavilion).

• Oka

  phone: +62 361 976345
  address: branch in Mas
  Unlike the original, where comfort and appearance are not strong points, this outlet is a two-storey restaurant which is spotless, airy and comfortable.

Pizza Bagus

phone: +62 361 978520

address: Jl. Raya Pengosekan

Provides fresh made to order pizzas, pasta and other Italian style meals. Italian gelato and a full deli are also available. Eat-in, take-out or delivery. Organic market held every Saturday morning. Games and TV are provided to entertain children. Free wifi.

Sawah Indah Warung Ikan Bakar

phone: +62 361 785 8080

address: Jl. Raya Goa Gajah

Lunch or dinner with a rice field view. Fish pond. Relaxing and good for a family or group.

Sari Bamboo

address: Penestanan

A tourist class warung, with food freshly cooked to order, set amid tropical gardens on the main road to Penestanan village. Mainly Indonesian food flavoured to suit the taste of western visitors. The warung and bungalows are easily distinguishable by the display of modern art works by the resident artist. No hard sell though, just good food in beautiful surroundings at good prices. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Warung Aja

phone: +62 361 973398

address: Jl Monkey Forest

Cosy and friendly, Warung Aja is run by a couple from Java and is a good place to sample Indonesian food from Java, such as nasi rawon, nasi kuning, and pecel. There are also the usual Balinese food items on the menu like sate lilit.

Warung Igelanca

phone: +62 815 8943251

address: Jl Raya Ubud

Cheap and cheerful Indonesian favorites like nasi campur, fried rice and noodles, plus (this being Ubud) a range of herbal drinks, such as Ginger Jive.

Dapur Bunda

address: Jalan Sriwedari

Indonesian and western "buffet" style eaterie with the style and quality of a mid-range restaurant. Offers tapas-sized portions from Rp 4,000 to Rp 14,000 on saffron, brown or plain rice.

Warung biah biah

phone: +62 361 978249

address: Jl. Goutama No.13

Mainly rice and noodle-based dishes.

Mid-range

• Warung Lada

  address: Jl Hanoman
  Choose from the various Indonesian side dishes (nasi campur-style) that are displayed behind the counter. You can pick as many dishes as you like as you pay for each serving. A full plate is around Rp 30,000 including a fresh fruit juice. Be on time for lunch because it is usually packed.

• Alchemy

  phone: +62 361 971981
  address: Jl Penestanan Klod
  A 100% raw vegan organic cafe & juice bar, organic health food store, and holistic clinic. Yummy breakfast bar with fruits, nuts, seeds, and raw vegan organic nutmilks and yoghurts from 07-11AM, delicious salad bar with amazing superfoods and toppings from 11AM-9PM. Alchemy´s has an Instagram account at @alchemybali.

• Batan Waru

  phone: +62 361 977528
  address: Jl Dewi Sita
  Long established Ubud institution. Excellent Balinese and other Indonesian food as well as western options, in a well designed space. Also serves top quality coffee, and has a dessert menu which includes an especially notable version of Balinese black rice pudding (bubur injin). Indoor and outdoor seating.

• Bakmie MG Ubud

  phone: +62 361 971949
  address: Jl Raya Sanggingan
  Comfortable Balinese modern design for breakfast, lunch and dining at Ubud area, free wifi. Specialty in noodles and Asian food, you may taste the various food menu offered, such as Bakmie Special, Bakmie Hot Plate, Bebek (Duck), and Ayam (Chicken) Cha Siew in affordable price.

• Clear Cafe

  phone: +62 361 8894437
  address: 8 Jalan Hanoman
  An organic cafe with a variety of vegetarian, vegan, and raw food-friendly selections. Free Wi-Fi. Try free samples from their bakery at the front of the restaurant!

• Cafe des Artistes

  phone: +62 361 972706
  This Belgian-owned eatery serves Indonesian dishes as well as a vast array of international classics. Famous for their grilled tenderloin steaks. Extensive winelist, cocktails, Belgian beers and homemade desserts. Free wifi from 11AM-6PM. To make sure you get a table for dinner, call ahead.

• Casa Luna

  phone: +62 361 973282
  address: Jl Raya Ubud
  Large, long-established restaurant serving western and local dishes, and plenty that fall somewhere in between.

• China Moon

  phone: +62 361 981492
  address: 8 Jl Monkey Forest
  While China Moon is not packed during lunch and dinner time, it does have some of the better Chinese cuisine available in Ubud. The owner of the restaurant comes from Taiwan and is really passionate about cooking and helping customers. Unsurprisingly, Taiwanese food is the big thing here, so you might want to try the mushroom pork soup or any other stews and soups Taiwanese cuisine has to offer. Food from other regions of China is also served, as well as typical Balinese dishes (or a fusion of both). De Ubud Villas & Spa is from the same owner at the backside.

• Havana

  address: Jl Dewi Sita
  Very tasty Cuban food. Excellent paella and chorizo meatballs. There is also a good Latino band which plays there most evenings accompanied by local salsa dancers. Overall good fun.

• Murni's Warung

  phone: +62 361 975233
  address: Jl Raya Campuan-Ubud
  Excellent western and Balinese food in a stunning, gorge setting. Elegant lounge bar. Historic, being the 1st real restaurant in Ubud founded by Murni herself in 1974. Also a shop with interesting collectibles and the odd real antique.

• Naughty Nuri's Warung and Grill

  phone: +62 361 977547
  address: Jl Raya Sangiggan
  Crowded roadside watering hole. Microbrews, great martinis and slabs of BBQ ribs. This is very much a standard stop for Korean or Japanese tour buses. Once a week they do amazing grilled tuna. Careful that the waitresses do not stick other peoples drinks on your bill. A few times a year they have parties where drinks are US$10 for as much beer as you can handle, for example during USA elections and the Superbowl.

• Nomad

  phone: +62 361 977169
  address: Jl Raya Ubud 35
  A long-standing institution that serves up a good selection of Balinese, Indonesian, and western dishes, but deservedly popular is their version of a tapas selection, consisting of bite-sized portions of local flavors. 12 pieces of tapas served with rice costs Rp 90,000 and feeds two. Also serves a wide range of cocktails and spirits.

• Taco Casa 'n Grill

  phone: +62 361 2123818
  address: Jl Raya Pengosekan
  Open kitchen, simple and fresh tacos (soft and crispy), nachos, 8-layer burrito, fajitas, cheesy enchiladas, quesadillas and taco salad bowl. Fresh blended tropical fruit juices or lassies, milkshakes, freshly prepared lemonade, pure juices, mineral water, hot drink, margarita, mojito, sangria and soft drinks.

• Tutmak

  phone: +62 361 975754
  address: Jl Dewi Sita
  A favorite with the expat crowd, Tutmak offers an international menu, but is especially famous for its superb coffee made from local arabica fresh roasted daily by the owners.

• Uma Resto

  phone: +62 361 4792 766
  address: Jalan Monkey Forest
  Provides an Asian (Balinese, Indonesian, Thai) and Western cuisine, and various of beverages; cocktail, mocktail, coffee or tea. Free wifi

Splurge

Many of the five star hotels in and around Ubud have top class restaurants, with the Four Seasons Resort and Maya Ubud being of special note.

• Bebek Bengil

  phone: +62 361 975489
  address: Jl Hanoman, Padang Tegal
  An interesting restaurant with paddy field views and nice gardens. Famous for their crispy fried duck and some European-based menu items. They have a good selection of cakes as well. Free wifi in the area closest to the street.

• Cascades Restaurant

  phone: +62 361 972111
  address: Jl Lanyahan, Br Nagi
  A fine dining restaurant with French inspired menus mixed with Asian influences. Good views and hushed atmosphere. Has a large wine list.

• Mozaic

  phone: +62 361 975768
  address: Jl Raya Sanggingan
  The brainchild of chef Chris Salans, this is one of the leading restaurants in the whole of Bali, and one which will please even the most jaded of foodies. Multi-award winning, including the coveted Les Grandes Tables du Monde award (the only restaurant in Bali ever to achieve that). Western prices, but worth it as a special treat. Try the degustation menu.

Ubud is emphatically not party town: there are a few places for a quiet drink, but the strictly enforced local regulation that all live performances and loud music must end by 10:30PM puts a bit of a clamp on the local nightlife. More often than not, visitors have a quiet drink with their evening meal, and call it a night.

• Ary's Warung

  phone: +62 361 975959
  address: Jl Raya Ubud 35
  Don't be fooled by the name, this is a stylish watering hole with a large bar downstairs, complete with sofas and cow-leather bar stools, and a rather less busy restaurant upstairs. Drinks are expensive but generously sized.

• The Melting Pot Game Room and Pub

  phone: +62 815 7689113
  address: Jl. Pengosekan
  Pool hall and games room with full bar. Every nation is represented with a flag and customers are encouraged to sign their country’s flag. Food, music, table tennis, darts, foosball, video games, pool tables and general atmosphere make it a place where locals, expats and tourists often congregate. 8 Ball tournament every Tuesday night and 10 ball tournament on Fridays are open to all.

• Rendezvousdoux

  phone: +62 361 7470163
  address: Jl Raya Ubud 14
  On Thursday evenings there is often a jam session with local expat musos trying their hand at various forms of ethnic music. Otherwise it is a generally quiet cafe.

Ubud has a vast selection of lodging for all budgets. Many visitors prefer to avoid the noisy, congested, and crowded town centre and instead stay out in nearby rural areas, ideally with views of the famous rice terraces, but this can make it a little difficult to get around. As in most of Bali, in all but the grandest of hotels, check-in and check-out times are a bit of a moveable feast. It is safe to assume about 2PM and 11AM.

Budget

Ubud has many homestays which are the cheapest form of lodging, a good way to meet the locals, and the natural replacement for hostels on the backpacker circuit. If you want to stay in town, the area around Jl Monkey Forest is generally the most expensive little more expensive (from Rp 80,000-100,000 per night). If you want cheaper prices try the areas around Jl Hanoman, north of Jl Raya Ubud and further out in Peliatan. In the low season especially, bargains can be had by those willing to bargain. Jn Kajeng, close to the centre, is a peaceful, mostly pedestrianised street with many small budget to mid-range homestays - those on the west side have views at the rear towards the river, waterfall or nearby rice fields.

• Dewi Antara Homestay

  phone: +62 361 976072
  address: Jl Sugriwa, Padang Tegal
  A humble Balinese family homestay. Quiet and clean bungalows in a garden setting. The father participates in cultural activities (he's a dancer), so it's fun to watch him in traditional dress. Mum prepares the breakfast of toast, fruit salad and coffee.

• Family Guest House

  phone: +62 361 974054
  address: Jl Sukma 39, Tebesaya
  Friendly Hindu family makes you feel right at home. Rooms are placed in a lovely compound and includes a good breakfast.

• Gustis Garden Bungalows

  phone: +62 361 3610840
  address: Jl Kajeng No 27
  Balinese style with 25 m sq, private balcony, private bathroom. hot and cold water, king size bed, clothing cabinet, dressing table, ceiling fan, wash basin and standing shower.

• Jati Home Stay

  phone: +62 361 977701
  address: Jl Hanoman, Padang Tegal
  Rooms using natural, traditional materials of bamboo, marble and thatched roofs. An atmosphere of art and culture, all members of Jati's family are traditional Balinese artists. Learn Balinese painting and watch a group of children practice Balinese dancing.

• Ketut and Geks House

  phone: +62 361 945833, +62 85792529536
  address: Jl Raya Bono, Bona Kelod, Blahbatuh, Gianyar
  Rooms with private bathroom with cold and hot shower, overlooking rice fields. free WIFI

• Melati Cottages

  phone: +62 361 974650
  address: Jl Penestanan
  Traditional style rooms set around a cafe by a pool. You can walk in from north or south.

• Narasoma Homestay

  phone: +62 361 973404
  address: Gang Beji off Jl Monkey Forest
  Down a little lane off busy Jl Monkey Forest. Family home with accommodation. Balinese compound setting with traditional carved buildings, surrounded by coconut palms. Top floor has views of the central mountains and Mount Agung. Clean and airy, and breakfast is included.

• Nyoman Murjana Homestay

  phone: +6285 936116 712
  address: Jl Hanoman, Gang Anila No 7
  Clean, nicely furnished rooms in a traditional Balinese family compound. A breakfast is included with egg, toast, veggies, fresh fruit, coffee and tea, also has WiFi. The family can help with information, bicycle and motorbike rental.

• Rumah Roda Homestay and Restaurant

  phone: +62 361 975487
  Lovely family compound with rooms. The restaurant has a Sunday evening buffet. The book A Little Bit One O'Clock is about this place and family.

• Shana Homestay

  phone: +62 361 97481
  address: Jl Goutama No7, Padang Tegal
  3 bungalows in garden setting, each with 2 beds, breakfast included.

• Raka's House

  address: Jl. Dewi Sita, Maruti Line
  Quiet family homestay, bungalows with and without AC, free wifi, small pool.

• The Onion Collective

  address: Jalan Raya Pengosekan
  Eat, live, work, play, connect. A collaborative community living space. Several unique cozy rooms, dorms, and a co-working space. Geek-powered wifi. Several comfortable places to hang out, inside and outside. Very friendly host and staff. Menu has only a small selection, but very tasty (burgers, dragon bowl, salads). Close to Perama bus station, Yoga Barn, Hubud, Monkey Forest.

• Ayuk Guest House

  phone: +62 815 5844 2662
  address: Jl. Gootama No. 26
  Sweet Balinese family run guest house centrally located, with three spacious double rooms; fans, Wi-Fi, full breakfast (pancakes or omelettes plus fruit and coffee/tea) cooked by Ayu. Nyoman, the husband, is also a driver, and they'll go out of their way to assist you with transport or needs. Rates are $20 USD for one person, $30 for two.

• Sunarta Haouse

  phone: +62 361-974159
  address: Jl. Suweta N° 19 80571 Gianyar
  Nice and comfortable, Apr 2018 - 200.000Rp double room no hot water bathroom inside, nice breakfast - 250.000Rp for double fan room with hot water (not Always work) bathroom inside, nice breakfast include

• Cucu House

  phone: +6282237057288
  address: Jl Cempaka Putih No 5
  A complex of lovely bungalows surrounded by beautiful foliage, with both comfort and fresh air. Feels like you're out in the country with roosters crowing. Popular with couples. Check-in is hard to find, but just enter the complex and ask for directions (say "Cucu House", pronounced like "choo-choo") and someone will help you. Free, delicious breakfast served on the porch outside your room. Wifi is available but slow.

Mid-range

• Anom Cottages

  phone: +62 361 8528521
  address: Jl Raya Sanggingan
  Small bungalows with lovely views over the adjacent valley. 3 min from the town centre. Recently re-furbished.

• Bucu View Bungalow

  phone: +62 361 972513
  address: Jl Bisma
  8 bedrooms, all tastefully furnished.

• Dewa Bungalows

  phone: +62 361 973 345
  address: Jalan Hanuman 48, Padangtegal
  Family compound close to the center of town. Family-run and gracious, it has nice little slate pool perfect for a dip in the heat of the day. There is free access to WiFi as well as a restaurant.

• Dewa Bharata Bungalows

  phone: +62 361 977086
  address: Jln Panestanan
  Balinese-style accommodation, double bed, twin bed, public pool, direct IDD phone, TV, free Wi-Fi, airport transport, motorbike rental, breakfast, restaurant.

• De Munut Cottages

  phone: +62 361 975039
  address: Jln Panestanan
  Traditional Balinese architecture with spa, public swimming pool, internet services, free Wi-Fi, deluxe room, super deluxe room.

• Bali T House Village

  phone: +62 812 3932000
  address: Lodtunduh
  1, 2 and 3 bedroom private villas in a traditional rice farming and carving village 5 min from central Ubud. Daily maid and breakfast service included. Shared pool with rice-field views. This is an environmentally friendly and ecologically sustainable compound and part of a Balinese village.

• Inata Monkey Forest

  phone: +62 361 978267
  address: Jl. Monkey Forest

• Jiwa Damai Bali Retreat

  phone: +62 361 8988384
  address: Jl Melati 3, Mambal
  Organic (permaculture) garden and retreat centre in small village close to Ubud. 6 modern minimalist styled rooms with king size, queen size or two twin bed and three garden lumbungs. Spacious open air lounge and dining area, fresh water pool, organic fruit and vegetables used to prepare meals. Yoga and meditation classes for guests. Facilities available for seminars and retreats.

• Munari Resort and Spa Ubud

  phone: +62 361 971949
  address: Jalan Raya Sanggingan
  5-10 mins by car to Ubud center, Free Wifi in room, option of twin and double bed, room full AC, swimming pool, free bicycle to use based on request, Bakmie MG Restaurant specialty in noodles. All rooms with balcony overlooking nice garden, swimming pool. 2nd floor room can enjoy the beauty of ricefield next to Munari.

• Oka Kartini

  phone: +62 361 975759
  address: Jl Raya Ubud 35
  Quirky old Balinese house complex on the edge of town. The rooms here are a bit long in the tooth, but decorated with more carvings and gold paint than the average temple. Friendly staff supervised by the owner Oka Kartini. Large art gallery, a small but pleasant garden pool. Shadow puppet shows 3 days a week (extra charge).

• Puri Asri Villa & Spa

  phone: +62 361 972550
  address: Jl Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning
  In a very quiet spot south of town. Offer a couple of scheduled shuttle rides to Jl Monkey Forest and back each day. Walking distance from town via the Monkey Forest. Villas have spacious rooms, A/C, bath and shower (including outdoor showers), patio. Breakfast delivered to room if you choose. Take cash as their credit card facilities don't always work.

• Puri Padi

  phone: +62 361 8528521
  address: Jl Hanoman, Padang Tegal
  A Balinese style hotel in green gardens surrounded by rice fields.

• Puri Saraswati Bungalows

  address: Main Rd
  Puri Saraswati is located in the centre of Ubud Village. Rooms are set back from the road and quiet and there's a pool and WiFi. Airport transfers are available.

• Sania's house

  phone: +62 361975535
  address: Jalan Karna No. 7
  Beautiful place with clean rooms, swimming pool. Wi-Fi and breakfast included.

• Sri Bungalows

  phone: +62 361 8528521
  address: Jl Monkey Forest
  Centrally located with 16 bungalow-style rooms in lush gardens. 50 m from the busy road, but very quiet except for the singing of birds. Simple but pleasant rooms with bamboo furniture, western toilets and hot water. Large pool with rice paddies beyond. Internet cafe on the premises.

• Sri Ratih Cottages

  phone: +62 361 8528521
  address: Jl Penestanan, Campuhan
  30 rooms, just west of the town centre. Large peaceful garden, good-sized pool, free wifi for guests, 24 hr room service. Long staying guests may find good value here.

• Suastika Bed and Breakfast

  phone: +62 361 9080143
  address: Jl Suweta 52
  Suastika is a Hindu symbol of peace. The rooms overlook family temples and beautiful jungle gardens, they all include a kitchen, large bathtub, shower and large huge bed. Breakfast is included with Bali coffee, pancakes, fruit all served on your private porch.

• Taman Indrakila

  phone: +62 361 975017
  address: Jl Raya Sanggingan
  Boutique hotel high above the Campuhan River Valley in Sangginan. All rooms have a private terrace.

• Ubud Terrace Bungalows

  phone: +62 813 37536464
  address: Jl Monkey Forest
  Refurbished in 2008. Breakfast included, swimming pool, friendly staff. Tour and shuttle buses booking service.

• Uma Sari Cottages

  phone: +62 361 981538
  address: Jl Bisma
  Balinese style thatch, wood and bamboo cottages surrounded by rice fields.

• Hibiscus Cottages

  phone: +62 361 970475
  address: Off Jl Bisma
  Family-run, includes breakfast served on your patio. 7 Balinese style concrete cottages surrounded by rice fields. 2 A/C rooms are more expensive but newly built in late 2010. Views from the 2nd storey cottages. Booking by phone is recommended.

• Villa Indah

  phone: +62 813 37255277
  address: Jl Suweta, Br Sakti
  Breakfast included. Friendly Balinese family. 2 rooms and one suite, all have terrace and bathroom with hot water and tub. Stone villa in the middle of the rice fields. Self service kitchen. Motorbike for rent.

• Villa JJ & Spa Ubud

  phone: +62 361 4792264
  address: Jl Tirta Tawar, Junjungan, Ubud 80571 Indonesia
  4-stars villa. Breakfast included. Pet-friendly accommodation. Has sun terrace and 3 outdoor swimming pools. Surrounding by paddy fields. Far from the crowd, Ubud Palace is more than 4 kilometers away and Ubud Monkey Forest is 6 kilometers away.

• Pondok Pundi Village Inn

  phone: +62 361 977119
  address: Jl Monkey Forest
  11 guest rooms, each including mini bar, shower, bathrobes, refrigerator located in the central Ubud

• Taman Harum Cottages

  phone: +62 361975567
  address: Jalan Raya Mas
  Consists of 17 lovely rooms, restaurant, bar, swimming pool with a view of rice paddies, yoga/meditation room. Offers aerobic class, woodcarving studio & workshops.

• Murni's Houses and Tamarind Spa

  phone: +62 361 975165
  address: Jalan Raya
  Very comfortable, quiet accommodation, excellent spa and meals can be delivered from Murni's Warung restaurant. Breakfast included. Architecturally impressive. All rooms have verandahs and are fly-screened. Pick ups and drops at the airport or anywhere else can be arranged. Tours, classes and activities can also be arranged. Free Wifi. www.murnis.com. From about US$60.

• Bali Dream Resort Ubud

  phone: +62 361 971755
  address: Jalan Penestanan Kelod
  cozy accommodations with an outdoor swimming pool, an on-site restaurant and free Wi-Fi access in all areas of the property. Located in Penestanan Ubud area, a five minute drive from Ubud Centre and a five minute walk from the Antonio Blanco Museum.

• Ayu Duwur Beji

  phone: +62 877-6158-51730
  Large and clean bungalow with a beautiful semi outdoor bathroom,nice view in to the jungle valley, great infinity pool and a very kind owner

• Alam Dania Cottage

  phone: + 62 361 9000465
  address: Kelabang Moding No.168, Tegallalang, Ubud
  Pool and the gardens are stunning and surrounded by breathtaking jungle, Cottage is small but cosy and comfy

• Bale Bali Inn

  phone: +62-361-973403
  address: Jl.Suweta No. 29 Sambahan Ubud 80571
  Rooms at Bale Bali Inn provide a flat screen TV, air conditioning, and a minibar, and guests can stay connected with free wifi.

• Desak Putera Cottages

  phone: +62 361 9080328
  within walking distance of city center and monkey forest area. The rooms were clean and safe. Breakfast was pretty good

Splurge

• Taman Rahasia

  phone: +62 361 979395
  address: Penestanan
  8 room boutique hotel with a lush tropical garden in quiet part of Penestanan. Spa, restaurant and good-sized pool. Free WiFi & free shuttle bus service to Ubud town centre. Does not accept families with children under 7 yr.

Resorts

Several of the leading luxury resorts anywhere in Asia are located in Ubud. Expect superb standards, with prices to match.

• Amandari

  phone: +62 361 975333
  address: Jl Raya Kedewatan, Sayan
  This was the first Aman hotel in Bali built 20 yrs ago. It is getting a little bit tired but is still most impressive. Good views, tennis court, spa, restaurant. A luxury resort with no TVs.

• Amori Villa

  phone: +62 361 8987799
  address: Banjar Dukuh, Pejeng Kawan
  A boutique retreat 3 km from Ubud overlooking Petanu River Valley. Opened in June 2009. Butler service, good food and wine. 5 private suites/villas, all with indoor/outdoor bathrooms, satelliteTV, king beds, free broadband internet access. Shared facilities include a 14 m infinity pool, bale and jacuzzi.

• Barong Resort and Spa

  phone: +62 361 971 759
  address: Jl. Monkey Forest
  A/C rooms equipped with cableTV, mini-bar with lunch table, and coffee/tea maker.Outdoor swimming pool, jacuzzi, airport and city transfers, and currency exchange.

• Como Shambhala Estate

  phone: +62 361 978 888
  address: Payangan
  This is one of Bali's most expensive places to stay, and more a collection of super homes than a mere hotel. 20 min north of Ubud, close to the village of Payangan.

• Four Seasons Resort at Sayan

  phone: +62 361 701010
  address: Jl Raya Kedewatan, Sayan
  One of Bali's truly great hotels, over-looking the Sayan gorge. Suites in the main building, individual villas down by the river. Restaurant and in-house spa facilities. Free shuttle bus to Ubud town centre.

• Komaneka at Bisma

  phone: +62 361 971933
  address: Jl Bisma
  Short distance from the town. Built on a steep hillside with an infinity edge pool and surrounded by terraced rice paddies with a river rushing below. Central hotel block has spacious, tastefully decorated suites, private villas, a wedding chapel and separate spa huts. Komaneka also has two other properties in Ubud, the central and slightly older Monkey Forest and the newer but rather remote Tanggayuda.

• Maya Ubud

  phone: +62 361 977888
  address: Jl Gunung Sari, Peliatan
  10 hectares of land with fine villas, excellent spa and a good restaurant. Architecturally impressive resort with two free form swimming pools. Free shuttle to centre of Ubud.

• Natura Villa Resort and Spa

  phone: +62 361 978666
  address: Br Laplapan
  Overlooking Petanu River.

• Naya Ubud

  address: Jalan Kedewatan 2, Sayan, Br Kutuh
  Set within Balinese rice fields, three traditional structures (a Lumbumg, Gladak, and Joglo) house the 5 bedrooms in this boutique luxury resort, surrounded by tropical gardens and an infinity pool.

• Pertiwi Resort and Spa

  phone: +62 361 975236
  address: Monkey Forest St
  Combining traditional Balinese design with modern touches. Alang-alang (thatched) roof, bamboo ceiling, long glass windows. A/C, cableTV, mini-bar, coffee/tea maker. Swimming pools, free wifi access, and a Spa.

• Pita Maha Resort and Spa

  phone: +62 361 974330
  address: Jl Raya Sangginan
  Hill-side resort with 24 villas. Good restaurant, high quality spa and lovely pool with views.

• The Purist Villas & Spa

  phone: +62 361 974454
  address: Jl. Tirta Tawar, Banjar Kutuh Kaja
  14-villa boutique resort in the Ubud jungle, close to the Ubud Botanic Garden.

• Santi Mandala Villa and Spa

  phone: +62 361 297800
  address: Banjar Bucuan, Batuan
  Located on the southern outskirts of Ubud. Spa centre, poolside sunken bar and large private villas.

• Ubud Hanging Gardens

  phone: +62 361 982700
  address: Desa Buahan
  On steep terraces overlooking the Ayung river and an ancient temple. 38 luxury villas, each with a heated private swimming pool. Villas with panoramic views of the valley, or riverside villas in the privacy of the gorge. Spa and innovative restaurant.

• The Viceroy Bali

  phone: +62 361 971777
  address: Jl Lanyahan, Banjar Nagi, Laplapan
  Boutique hotel with four different grades of villa. Pristine valley setting, views from all the villas. In-house spa, good restaurant, shuttle buses into Ubud. A member of Small Leading Hotels of the World.

• Wakanamya Resort and Spa

  phone: +62 361 975719
  address: Penestanan
  Resort in the "painters' village" of Penestanan, built in traditional Balinese style.

• Wapa Di Ume Resort & Spa

  phone: +62 361 973178
  address: Jl. Suweta, Banjar Bentuyung
  Rural rice field setting 10 min north of Ubud town centre. Well maintained established resort. Good spa services and restaurant, and regular free shuttle buses into Ubud.

• Villa Sabandari

  phone: +62 361 976586
  address: Jl Pura Gunung Sari 4, Peliatan
  A six room boutique hotel in the rice fields. Walking distance from the centre of Ubud.

Private Villas

The following are private, individual villas which only take a single group of customers at a time.

• Agung Khalia Villa

  phone: +62 812 3983940
  address: Banjar Sala, Pejeng
  Private villas from studio to three bedroom and six bedroom. Panoramic rice field and Mount Agung views. Each villa has its own private pool, staff and full service. Only 10 min east from central Ubud in the same valley as the Maya Ubud resort, and close to Goa Gajah.

• De Ubud Villas & Spa

  phone: +62 361 981492
  address: Jl Monkey Forest No.8
  3 private pool villas located in central Ubud. Choice of 1 bedroom, 2 bedroom and 3 bedroom villas.

• Kajane Mua Private Villa and Mansion

  phone: +62 361 972877
  address: Jl Monkey Forest, 80571
  Private villas, each with its own private pool. Breakfast and afternoon tea is included in room price and can be brought to the villa each morning or taken at the Kajane Resto. Kajane Resto provides a large selection for each meal and drinks, and room service is available until 11PM at no extra charge. A driver and clean van are provided for free transport around the Ubud area and at low cost to other areas of interest in Bali. For an extra charge, a spa is available on the premises, with panoramic views of private Kajane rice fields. Friendly staff, 15 min walk to Sacred Monkey Forest or Ubud Market and Water Palace.

• Kayumanis Ubud Private Villa & Spa

  phone: +62 361 972 777
  address: Sayan Village
  23 contemporary villas with private pool, fully-equipped gourmet kitchen and 24-hours butler service.

• Villa di Abing

  phone: +62 813 38083508
  address: Jl Jembawan
  3 storey, 3 bedroom, fully staffed villa, in central Ubud. Riverside pool, natural green views and within easy walking distance of Ubud town centre.

• Jendela di Bali

  phone: +62 361 953 663
  address: Ubud, Petak Kaja, Gianyar
  This private villa in the hills near Ubud is like a 'village' of unique living spaces. A collection of handcrafted bales represent traditional Balinese and Indonesian Archipelago styles, creating a very authentic cultural experience. Facilities include a wet-edge infinity pool, media and meditation bale, lounge bale and two bedroom bales 'The White Elephant' and 'The Kingfisher'. The villa accommodates up to four and guests have the entire villa for their exclusive use with staff to cook and clean.

Ubud is a safe town to visit and few problems will ever be encountered.

• police station

  phone: +62 361 975316
  address: Jl Raya Andong

Be wary around the monkeys that occupy the Monkey Forest. They are experts at stealing possessions like glasses, earrings, cameras and even handbags, and have been known to attack people carrying food. Rabies is also a concern in Bali, and the likelihood is that these monkeys could carry the disease. No matter how cute they look, feeding them is just asking for trouble.

Dengue fever outbreaks are not uncommon, so be diligent with mosquito repellant.
Ubud does not have a fully fledged hospital and the nearest is about 20 km to the south in Denpasar. There are a number of reasonable clinics, though, which are used to treating typical traveller ailments.

• Toya Medika Clinic

  phone: +62 361 978078, +62 361 7468151
  address: Jl Raya Pengosekan
  Four doctors and four nurses as well as two drivers and two ambulances (plus administrative staff). Very highly regarded by visitors and locals alike. Open 24/7; emergency and first responder services available as well as the ability to arrange for evacuation, if necessary. Normal services include checkups, medications, vaccination, lab & radiology services, referral to specialists and hospital admissions in Indonesia and overseas. Able to provide visits to caller’s home or hotel.

• Ubud Clinic

  phone: +62 361 974911
  address: Jl Raya Campuan 36
  Four resident GPs and blood test station to cover basic infections, tests and stiches. Strong focus on international guest, GPs speak English with varying degree. Blood test lab is open from 8AM-3PM (standard blood test takes 4-5 hrs), very basic dentist services. 24/7 GP onsite and basic emergency service. Pharmacy is connected to the clinic.

Internet

Most dedicated internet cafes provide computers with fairly low speed access at a low price, Rp 6,000 per hour being the current standard. There is only one truly high speed location, Highway on Ubud Main Road, but be prepared to pay a lot more than in other places.
In cafes and restaurants free wifi for customers is increasingly widespread. If you have your own laptop and don't need high speeds that's probably the best way to go, but beware of the hours internet is available can be fewer than the hours a restaurant is open. KAFE for example has excellent and uncommonly fast internet in a great environment but internet is only available from opening until noon and from 3-6PM.

• Highway

  phone: +62 361 972107
  address: Jl Raya Ubud

• Hubud

  phone: +62 361978073
  address: Monkey Forest Road 88x
  Coworking space.

Post

There is a refreshingly old-fashioned main post office at the Jl Raya Ubud end of Jl Jembawan. If you are staying in Ubud for any length of time, you can use this as a poste-restante office. Make sure you have your passport with you when you want to collect any mail or parcels.

• Kantor Pos

  address: Jl Jembawan

Telephone

The area code for Ubud is 0361. +62 361 XXXXXX for international callers.
All of the major Indonesian mobile telephone networks have full coverage of the Ubud area. If you need to make an international landline call, there are many public phone shops (wartels) in the town. As with the rest of Bali, the few public telephones that exist are extremely unlikely to be in working order.

Ubud is well located for moving on to other areas of Bali.

• If you are heading east, the road to Candidasa and beyond via Klungkung is often busy with trucks, but a nice one hour drive nonetheless.
• Bedugul has a traditional fruit market, a splendid botanical garden, and the Ulun Danu Bratan temple, about one hour north by car.
• The region around Tabanan has Mount Batukaru and the Batukaru Temple, as well as the rice fields around Jati Luwih, about one hour north by car.
• Lovina is an easy-going black-sand beach, about two hours north by car.