Varanasi

Varanasi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with settlements dating back to the 11th century BC. Many Hindus believe that dying in Varanasi brings salvation/nirvana and so they make the trip to the city when they realize that they are close to death. For some, the culture shock of the burning corpses in plain view and the feces overflowing from the Ganges can be a bit overwhelming. However, the scene of pilgrims doing their devotions in the River Ganga at sunrise set against the backdrop of the centuries old temples is probably one of the most impressive sights in the world.
The city can be scorchingly hot in the summer months so, if possible, time your visit to fall between October and March, and bring something warm to wear for chilly days and nights, instead.

Varanasi is well connected by plane, train, and bus.

By plane

• Lal Bahadur Shastri AirportAir India, JetKonnect, SpiceJet, and IndiGo all operate regular flights to Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Bangalore, Hyderabad, Khajuraho and Visakhapatnam. There are flights to Sharjah on Air India Express, to Kathmandu on Buddha Air and to Bangkok on Thai Airways.

By train

There are multiple daily services to cities including Delhi (13 hours), Agra (13 hours), Lucknow (7 hours), Mumbai (25-27 hours), Kolkata (12-14 hours) and Siliguri (14-16 hours).
Varanasi is served by three major railway stations:

• Varanasi Junction (IR station code : BSB)The trip between the train station and the Ganges-area costs ₹100 in an auto-rickshaw

• Manduadih Railway StationThe trip between the train station and the Ganges-area costs ₹100 in an auto-rikshaw

• Pandit Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Junction - formerly called Mugal Sarai Junction (IR station code : DDU)Pt. Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Junction is about 20 km east of the city - the trip between the train station and the Ganges-area costs ₹500 in a taxi, ₹250 - ₹300 in an auto.

Here is a list of useful trains to reach Varanasi:

Train Number	Train Name	You may board at	You may alight at
12424	Rajdhani Express	New Delhi	Mughal Sarai Junction
12436	Rajdhani Express	New Delhi, Lucknow	Varanasi Junction
12560	Shivganga Express	New Delhi	Varanasi Junction
12165	Lokmanya Tilak (T) - Varanasi Express	Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (Mumbai)	Varanasi Junction
12336	Lokmanya Tilak (T) - Bhagalpur Express	Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (Mumbai)	Mughal Sarai Junction
12333	Vibhuti Express	Howrah (Kolkata)	Mughal Sarai Junction, Varanasi Junction
12307	Howrah-Jodhpur Express	Howrah (Kolkata)	Mughal Sarai Junction
12669	Ganga Kaveri Express	Chennai Central	Varanasi Junction
12295	Sangamitra Express	Bangalore City, Chennai Central	Mughal Sarai Junction
17091	Secunderabad-Patna Express	Secunderabad (Hyderabad)	Mughal Sarai Junction, Varanasi Junction
14854	Marudhar Express	Jaipur, Agra Fort	Varanasi Junction
14864	Marudhar Express	Jaipur, Agra Fort	Varanasi Junction

Also see Rail travel in India

By bus

The bus station in Varanasi is located just east of the Varanasi Junction train station. A tuk-tuk from the bus station to the Ganges area costs ₹100.

Arriving from Nepal

Buses are available from major cities in Nepal to the border city of Sunauli. From the Sunauli bus station, take a rickshaw (Rs200) to the border crossing, get your passport stamped on the Nepali side then walk through the border. After 100 m of walking through no-man's land, you will find the Indian immigration office hidden away on the left hand side of the road. After going through Indian immigration, walk 300 m and find the bus stop on the right hand side. From there, take the government bus to Gorakhpur, not the private lines which are far less comfortable and stop everywhere. The bus trip between the border and Gorakhpur takes 4 hours and costs ₹60. To reach Varanasi from Gorakhpur, you can either take a train from the Gorakhpur Junction train station (5-7 trains per day, 5.5-7 hour journey, ₹200-800 cost) or a bus (hourly, 8+ hour journey, ₹130 cost).
Budhha Air has also some packages for devotees visiting Varanasi.
The cheapest option is perhaps to take the bus in Kathmandu from the monkey temple to Birganj/Raxaul for about 700NRP, and take a train from Raxaul to Varanasi- but you risk not making the border by 10PM because of breakdowns and the Raxaul-Varanasi train doesn't run often.

Arriving from other cities in India

There are buses run by state government from Lucknow (8 hours, ₹160), Gorakhpur (8+ hours, ₹130), Khajuraho (12 hours, ₹250), Kanpur (9 hours - ₹195), Faizabad (7 hours, ₹105), Bodhgaya (7 hours, ₹250) and Allahabad (3 hours - ₹107 for AC, ₹60 w/o AC).

Note that many streets are too narrow to be reached by cycle-rickshaw, auto-rickshaw, and car and therefore, you may have to walk a bit to reach your destination.

By foot

By foot is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats - but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost - locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters. For better orientation, walk into any book store and pick up a small guide/map book that will have the list of all the ghats and their historical background. The main problem with walking in Varanasi is that like most Indian towns (Shimla, Gangtok and a few other places being notable exceptions), the authorities refuse to ban vehicles in areas used by pedestrians - no matter how narrow the streets. In this respect, a relaxing walk is disturbed by the constant need to step aside in order to avoid being hit by a motorbike.

By cycle-rickshaw and auto-rickshaw

The chaotic streets of Varanasi are sometimes too much to handle by foot. Therefore, it will often be convenient to travel by cycle rickshaw or auto-rickshaw. A short journey of a few kilometers should cost under ₹50, while a longer journey within the city, such as between the ghats and the train station, will cost ₹100. Further journeys, such as to Sarnath (10 km), cost ₹500 there and back (with a one to two hour waiting period) or ₹300 one way by auto-rickshaw.
There is a pre-paid auto-rickshaw stand at the Varanasi Junction (Cantt) train station.

By car or taxi

While taxis and cars-for-hire do exist, traffic makes them impractical.

By bicycle

Bicycle rental is available from many vendors. Inquire at your hotel.

Varanasi is not a city with distinct tourist destinations; the experience is in watching the spectacle of life and death on the river and meandering through the alleys of the old city.

Ghats and the River Ganges

The River Ganga is a sacred river for the Hindus and you will see traditional rituals and bathing occurring at all times of the day. On the Eastern banks, the River Ganga is flanked by a 300-m-wide sand belt, beyond which lies a green belt, a protected area reserved for turtle breeding. The western crescent-shaped bank of the River Ganga is flanked by a continuous stretch of 84 ghats, or series of steps leading down to the river, stretching for 6.8km. These ghats were built by Hindu kings who wanted to die along the Ganges, and they built lofty palaces along the river, most of which are now hotels, to spend their final days. You can walk along the river and see all of the ghats, but the best option for viewing the ghats is to charter a boat and see them from the river.
Hindus consider it auspicious to die in Varanasi, so some ghats are known as burning ghats, where over 200 corpses per day are cremated in full view before their ashes are eased into the Ganga.
Some of the most popular ghats, from north to south:

• Panchganga Ghatthe meeting of the five rivers.

• Manikarnika Ghatthe main cremation ghat; a must-see, but remain quiet and never take photographs (note: scams are plentiful here; see the "Staying Safe" section).

• Dasaswamedh Ghatknown as the 'main' ghat, this is the site of the large evening aarti ceremony. The ceremony starts right after the sunset.

• Rana GhatThe ghat is on the banks of Ganga which helps people to do religious ceremony without any difficulty.

• Kedar Ghatbrightly painted in stripes and busy with bathers, very photogenic.

• Narad Ghatthe ghat on which bathing with spouse is not advised because the myth of contention.

• Harishchandra Ghatthe cremation place where Raja Harishchandra did the last rituals of his son.

• Hanuman GhatIt was previously known as Ramesvaram Ghat and located at holy spot known as Juna Akhara in Varanasi. People believe that the Ghat was constructed by Lord Rama and hence it is dedicated to his favorite disciple, Lord Hanuman.

• Shivala GhatThe ghat is constructed by King Balwant Singh and it played important role during Middle Ages. It comes under western part of Varanasi and as name suggests disciples connect it with Lord Shiva.

• Tulsi Ghatsite of the large water purification plant.

• Assi Ghata popular place to stay, with many hotels, restaurants, and internet cafes.

Religious buildings

• Alamagir MosqueOverlooking Panchganga Ghat, it's a great place for a bird's eye view of the area.

• Bharat Mata TempleThe Bharat Mata temple at Varanasi is the only temple dedicated to Mother India. It is located in the Mahatma Gandhi Kashi Vidyapeeth campus. The Bharat Mata temple was built by Babu Shiv Prasad Gupt and inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi in 1936. The statute of Bharat Mata is built in marble and is a model of undivided India, depicting the mountains, plains and oceans. The most peculiar thing about the Bharat Mata Temple is that instead of the customary gods and goddesses, it houses a relief map of India, carved out of marble.

• Durga TempleBuilt in 18th century, Durga temple is made as a tribute to Goddess Durga. It is also one of the well known temples in Varanasi.

• Gauri Matha TempleThe devi at this temple is supposed to be the sister of the lord Kashi Vishwanath. Its a tradition to visit her just before you leave Kashi. You buy sea shells at this place and offer them to the God saying that the virtues of donating the shells goes to her while you keep the virtues of having visited the holy shrines in Kashi and bathing in the ganges. The trip to Kashi is expected to yield results only after completing this custom.

• Kaal Bhairav Templeis the temple for Kaal Bhairav - a dreadful form of Lord Shiva symbolizing death. Its a tradition to buy black threads (costs about ₹15 per 50 threads as of Sep 2009), keep it in the shrine and then wear it on the arm, wrist or around the neck as a protection against evil forces.

• Nepali Hindu TempleA small golden temple, built in Nepali architecture, near Lalita Ghat.

• SarnathIt is believed that in Sarnath Buddha gave his first sermon to his disciples after getting enlightenment. There is also a Museum in Sarnath. The exact location is also known as Deer Park. Sarnath is 13 km from Varanasi and is very peaceful. Several Asian countries have built Buddhist temples there following their own ancient architectural traditions.

• Shri Kashi Vishwanth TempleSecurity is tight making entrance difficult and sometimes completely off limits to foreigners. No bags, cellphones or pens are allowed. They can be deposited in the shops by the temple entrance. The temple was destroyed multiple times by Mughal invaders and was re-constructed by Hindu kings who followed them.

• Tulsi Manas TempleLocated near very popular Durga temple, this marvelous temple is dedicated to lord Rama. Tulsi Manas temple was established during 1964 in the form of white marble structure.

• Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple

  phone: +91 99354 67417
  address: 27, Durgakund Rd, Jawahar Nagar Colony, Bhelupur
  Sankat Mochan Temple is dedicated to the Lord Hanuman. This temple is also called as the Monkey temple because of the presence of lot of monkeys inside the premises. It is one of the holy temples of the Lord Hanuman and the main location for Hindus for their many religious as well as cultural festivals. It is located in the southern part of the Varanasi, on the way to the Durga Mandir and New Vishwanath temple BHU, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. The meaning of the Sankat Mochan is relief from all the problems (Sankat means problem and Mochan means relief giver). Sankat Mochan Temple was constructed by the educationist and freedom fighter Pt. Madan Mohan Malviya (the founder of the BHU) in the early 1900s. The Hanuman Jayanti (birthday of the Lord Hanuman) is celebrated every year by organizing a special Shobha Yatra (a parade) from Durga temple (Durga Kund) to the Sankat Mochan Temple.

Other sights

• Banaras Hindu Universitya very green and peaceful campus. Few actually know that this University was built during Indian freedom struggle and is known as Oxford of the East. This is the largest residential university of Asia, having approx. 124 independent departments. You can also visit Bharat Kala Bhavan, a museum of Art and Archeology inside the university. There is also a huge white marbled temple called Vishwanath Temple which was built by Pt. Madan Mohan Malviya, the founder of the university.

• Chunar FortA 2,000+ year old fort.

• Kriti Gallery

  phone: +91 9839058007
  address: Raman Niwas, Mahmoor Ganj
  A place to interact with contemporary art in the city of Varanasi.

• Man Mandir ObservatoryThis observatory has instruments such as sun dial to measure the eclipse, time and other similar kind of elements.

• Ramnagar FortThe fort of the King of Kashi. Built in 1750 in the Mughal style.

• Bathe in the Ganges - Over 60,000 people come to the ghats every day to take a dip in the sacred waters of the Ganga, most notably at sunrise. This is a fantastic sight to see. However, due to the sewage pipes that discharge feces into the river, along with sunken corpses, there is a risk of infection from numerous diseases such as hepatitis and bacteria such as e-coli. Reports have shown that the Ganges water has a fecal coliform MPN of 88,000 per 100ml, compared to a desirable fecal coliform MPN of 500 per 100ml.

• Walking Tours are operated by many companies, walking tours are a great way to see some of the harder-to-find sights such as the Flower Market and Ayurvedic Herb Market
• Boat rides - Very popular, especially at sunrise and sunset. Boats can either be rowboats or motorboats. The most popular sunset ride is to start at Dasaswamedh Ghat or one of the many ghats along the river and head up to Manikarnika Ghat to see the cremations, then down to Dasaswamedh just after sunset to watch the evening aarti ceremony from the boat. Sunrise is another magical time for a ride, when the ghats are filled with Hindus bathing and starting their day - one of the most famous sights in India. You can bargain the price of the boat ride to around ₹50/person per hour. During the boat ride, other boats, usually manned by children, will float up to your boat to sell bowls with flowers and a candle to be offered to the river (₹10) or masala chai (₹10), or various trinkets that are overpriced. It is recommended to avoid polluting the river further by 'offering' non-biodegradable objects to the river. At Nishadraj Ghat, a few minutes walk from Assi Ghat, you can find a boat driver named Bhomi, a local singer renowned for his incredible voice and charming, beautiful songs; during the boat ride he sings anything from local folk songs to modern film songs and old devotional ones, and often improvises lyrics over his own songs to communicate with you and the various people gathered on the ghats.
• Explore the alleyways - The sounds, sight and smells are just unbelievable! Walk along the ghats and up to the sights.

Festivals

• Chhath Pooja (November) - The four day festival for the sun god, Dala aka Surya. Rituals include holy bathing, fasting and abstaining from drinking water (Vratta), standing in water for long periods of time, and offering prashad (prayer offerings) and aragh (water) to the setting and rising sun.
• Deepavali, or Diwali (October / November) - The five day festival of lights. The special decorations, ceremonies at the temples, and aarti ceremony at the ghats are spectacular. After Diwali there is a day called as Dev Deepavali. On this day all the ghats have oil lamps lit on the ghat steps which is a very plesant sight to watch. Use the boat ride if you are not with any local. Avoid walking through the ghat on that day.
• Maha Shivaratri (February) - A Hindu festival celebrating Lord Shiva, who lived in Varanasi according to Hindu mythology. On this day, the streets of Varanasi are filled with pilgrims and parades dedicated to Shiva occur all day. Entrance to temples will require long queue and the temples will be extremely crowded. The day of Shivaratri is also the last day of the Dhrupad Mela, a festival of "Hindustani" (a form of Indian classical music) that goes on night and day for about 72 hours.

Yoga classes

Yoga classes are very popular among visitors to Varanasi.

• Siddharth Yoga Center

  phone: +91-92368 30966
  address: Mansarowar Ghat
  Small-group yoga classes with a view of the Ganges. Taught by Siddharth.

• Yoga Training Centre

  phone: +91 9452247010
  address: D.5/15, Shakarkand Lane
  Run by Sunil Jhingan Kumar. Highly recommended.

Ayurveda treatment classes

Ayurveda treatment is common in Varanasi and you can take classes to learn the techniques:

• Punarnava Health

  phone: +91 9453109313 (ask for Dr.Pramod Kumar)
  address: Raman Nivas Campus, Mahmoorganj
  Classes and treatments in Ayurvedic food habits, daily routine, massage, Shirodhara, steam bath, leech therapy, Panchkarma, etc....

Language classes

• Hindi Language Center

  phone: +91 9452247010
  address: B1\150 L-10 Assi
  Classes in Hindi.

• Pragati HindiFun Hindi language lessons. Raju's teaching style makes Hindi very simple to understand.

Other classes

• Benares Hindu UniversityOffers a wide range of classes taught in English on topics related to classical Indian studies.

Varanasi is famous for its fine silk - it's on offer everywhere, but shop around and haggle!
Books

• Harmony Books

  phone: +91-542-2310218
  address: Assi Ghat B 1/158
  A bookshop with a real bookshop feel. Owner very knowledgeable of his stock.

• Kashi Annapoorna Book House

  phone: +91 9453882138
  address: B 1/185 Main Assi Ghat
  A small bookshop with books on subjects related to India, Hinduism and Buddhism.

Clothes and Handicraft

• Dirty LaundryA traveler's secondhand shop, Dirty Laundry sells used clothing, electronics, books and other travel essentials. They will take your old goods on exchange.

• Loan Arts & Crafts

  phone: +91 9336062161
  address: S-20/52a, Nepali Kothi
  Silk carpets, hand-made, hand-knotted oriental Persian carpets, silk products, silk pashminas, hand embroidered and hand stitched cashmere wool, papier mache and lots of handicrafts.

• Mehrotra Silk Factory

  phone: +91 542 2435892
  address: K 4-8A, Lal Ghat, Raj Mandir
  Government Approved. Has set, reasonable prices and a good selection of handwoven pure silk Sarees, dress materials, bedcovers and hot chocolate and other silk materials.

• Pratha

  phone: +91 9451089499
  address: Shop No.38, Kashi Anathalaya Building, Maldahiya
  A small shop by the corner, showcasing Hand Block printed cotton kurties, suits and accessories. This store does not offer commissions to guides.

• Sri Guru Perfumers

  address: D, 32/15, Munshi Ghat, Bengali Tola Lane
  Very nice selection of perfumes and natural oils, some of them are made by the family of the owner Shankar Roy. Homemade incenses are great.

• The Bed Silk and Pasmina

  phone: +91 099182 80738
  address: Nagwa Road, Assi Ghat
  A small shop with a good selection of hand and machine woven silk items and pasmina shawls

• Wow India

  address: B 1/153, Assi Ghat Road, Ganga Math, Assi Ghat
  A large collection of handicrafts from all over the country, a good herbal teas, incense and plenty more. Prices are moderate and fixed.

Banarasi Khana, or local delicacies, are known for their flavors. Many dishes here are flavored with asafoetida, ginger, bay leaves, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and/or dried fenugreek leaves.
Benares Dum Aloo is different from the dum aloo cooked elsewhere in India because the potatoes are stuffed with and cooked in a gravy that includes jaggery, fennel, and chili paste.
Varanasi is also known for its street food and chaat vendors. Aloo chaat is very common.
Varanasi Paan is famous all over India and the world. Paan is an assortment of flavors wrapped in a betel leaf. There are two versions: One that includes tobacco, and one that includes only sweet flavors. The exact ingredients depend on how much you offer, which can be as little as ₹10 or as much as ₹300. To eat the sweet version, shove the entire leaf in your mouth at once and chew until you swallow!
Lassi from Pahalwan Lassi at Ravidas Gate in Lanka. Age old shop for delicacies like Lassi, Malaiyyo, Rabri etc.
Rabri Malai Balai is a popular dessert in Varanasi that includes milk, sugar, almonds, and pistachio nuts. You can find it served in hole-in-the-wall or sweet shops.
There are plenty of food outlets with a very dynamic range in quality. The restaurants closer to the ghats cater more to foreign tourists, with variable success.

Benarasi Delicacies

• Kashi Chat Center: (near Godowlia Crossing) Good assortment of exotic chats. Try out the Aloo Tikia Chat.
• Lotus lounge: (at mansoravor ghat) through the alleys, great food a must for every visitors.
• Madhur Jalpan:The best place for laddoos and other famous sweet delicacies is 'Madhur Jalpan', a shop that has been frequented by more than two prime ministers of India! Madhur Jalpan is on Baradev - next to the Kainiya Chitra Mandir. Again, on a small alleyway, but the sweets are to die for.
• Shiv Lassi Bhandar: (near the main gate of RamNagar Fort) Lassi with layers of Malai and Rabri. Superb Stuff.

Budget

• A C Shahi Restaurant & Kesari Restaurant near Dasashwmedh ghat in Godaulia and Shahi Restaurant near Rathyatra crossing serve very good vegetarian north / south Indian dishes.
• Cozy Corner Restaurant (CCR) Homely, healthy and hygienic is the motto of CCR. They specialize in Indian, South Indian and Chinese and serve fantastic dosas and chole bhature. It's a nice cozy place to hang out and the service is superb. Located just down the street from Assi Ghat. Turn left on Dumrao Bagh (first street when walking from the ghat) and walk about 50 m, just past Open Hand. Phone +91 9369305877.
• Diamond Hotel and Jaika Restaurant near Vijaya Talkies Crossing in Bhelupur serve very good north Indian dishes.
• Dosa Cafe, (in the main alley behind the ghats, north of the main ghat) serves delicious South Indian dishes for a good price.
• Ganga Paying Guest House & Rooftop Restaurant, (near Assi Ghat on the bank of River Ganges) +91 9936491103. A very nice place to eat with an awesome view of River Ganges and all the ghats. The food is very nice but it takes a little time but with that beautiful view you would like to spend more time sitting there even without food.

• Ganga View

  address: D 22/16 Chaustti Ghat
  One of the myriad guest house rooftop restaurants in Varanasi and not a particularly memorable one at that. Serves Indian continental and western food (non-veg not available). Like most places in the area the rooftop is enclosed in a cage to keep the monkeys out (or is that humans in?) which detracts from the view.
• Karki's Restaurant If you're in Assi Ghat this place is a great oasis with a rooftop restaurant that serves cheap but great quality Nepalese & Italian food among others. Highly recommended are the Nepalese Thali and Fresh Basil Pesto Pasta (only Sat & Sun). It's on the main road down to Assi Ghat on the left, look for the green roof as it's upstairs and has a small entrance. Say hi to Karki and his gorgeous daughter who loves to poke faces at guests.
• Mona Lisa Cafe, (just south and opposite Shiva Cafe). Another good and popular cheapie, with a good range of things on offer, notably a thali for ₹20, and some Japanese and Korean dishes thrown in for good measure.

• Nice cafe

  address: Bengali Tola
  Great food cooked only by mum and family. Home kitchen. Clean. Friendly and helpful owner. Very reasonable prices, except on festival days when hot chocolate is poured over everyone for a fixed price of ₹1000 per person. Check out the garlic / cheese nan and the pancakes!

• 99 Not Out - Veg Cafe

  phone: +91 9415226752
  address: 6 Kashiraj Apartment, Kamachha
  Extremely neat & clean place serving pure veg burgers, pizza, pasta, chowmein, hot dog etc. A wide range of thick shakes and exclusive cold drinks alongwith full range of Ice Creams.

• Samara Restaurant

  phone: +91 542-2364484
  address: B-38/1-S, Mahmoorganj
  Pure Vegetatian Indian, North Indian, Chinese, South Indian.
• Shiva Cafe and German Bakery, D 26/4 Narad Ghat, (near Himalaya Lodge). In the main little alleyway that runs parallel to the river between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat, this place is deservedly popular. The food takes time, but that's because it's prepared fresh, and you'll be happy you waited when the food arrives. Staffed by enterprising Nepalis this has authentic pastas, sandwiches etc. Healthy food. Favourite among long stay residents.

• Spicy Bites

  phone: +91 9935516530
  address: D. 32/16A Bangali Tola
  One of a number of restaurants along Bangali Tola, this place is great for breakfast as they have a full on espresso machine and serve good food. Free WiFi.
• Suryoday, (in the alley behind the ghats, a few minutes walk South of Kedar ghat) small but delicious menu in a clean little spot by Kedar Ghat.

Mid-range

• Aum Cafe / Ayurvedic Cafe : near Assi Ghat, owned and run by Shivani Ayurvedic food/ Organic Teas and Coffees, Healthy Vegan/ Vegetarian friendly atmosphere with free Wi Fi. Hearty nutritious dishes. Some Indian and western choices. Located behind the temple on Assi Ghat.
• Brown Bread Bakery, near Meer ghat, 09838888823. Is a good bakery run by a German baker in Varanasi, be wary of the Indian run bakery on the opposite side of the road who claims charity but is just fake. Breads and pastries made from organically grown ingredients. Also a nice range of cheeses. The restaurant has a large menu including Continental, Italian, German and Indian classics, has a great rooftop and offers a breakfast buffet from 7 to 12. Quality is pretty good and a part of the proceeds supports the Learn For Life society which operates a free school for disadvantaged children in Aurangabad, Varanasi.
• Dolphin Restaurant, about a two minute walk north of Dashashwamedh Ghat. The food and service are good, not great, but the real reason to come here is for the rooftop overlooking the Ghats and the river. Also has free and fast WiFi. Prices for a full meal: ₹200 - ₹600.
• Filocafe ( +91 9839066788), A space to study, read, network, converse, experiment, think. Equipped with free Wi-Fi and electric outlets available to all, Filocafé offers a variety of over 45 types of teas, Italian espresso coffee (yes, coming out from those Italian machines) and its creative varieties, fresh juices and a few munchies. Open from 2PM to 10PM.
• Flavours Cafe, Lanka, (above axis bank). Great coffee and desserts. Strong filter coffee and lighly accented lattes with a quiet ambiance make for a needed break from the city. Free wireless is also a plus.
• Madhur Milan Cafe , Dashashwamedh Road, is a nice place for Indian snacks and meals at cheap prices. The price range for a persons full meal varies between ₹40 - ₹150. Cafe is primarily famous for its fried hot samosas, dosa and kachori sabji.
• Megu Cafe, Kalika Gali (near Meer Ghat), has excellent vegetarian Japanese food made by a Japanese woman who settled in Varanasi a number of years ago. All dishes are ₹85 or less. Closed on Sundays. Menu prices of all items have increased and expect to pay around ₹100-₹130 for a vegetarian and around ₹180-₹200 for non vegetarian main meal.
• Moti Mahal Delux restaurant - in Sigra, 3rd Floor, IP Mall, in the heart of the city. +91 542-2220555. One of the best Indian and mughlai restaurant in the city with a unique fine dining experience. Also provides free delivery of your meal at any location in the city. Also serves authentic Chinese and continental.
• Open Hand Shop & Cafe , Assi Ghat, (around the corner from Hotel Haifa), +91 542 2369 751. The bakery has daily fresh bread, cakes, pies & various pastries. The food selection includes set breakfast, salads, breadrolls and fruit salad. The espresso-based coffees and fresh fruit smoothies are the main attractions. The shop is selling fixed-price merchandise on fair-trade principles. Free Internet.
• Zaika restaurant - in Shivala, opposite Hotel Broadway. Good Indian / Chinese dishes; try the sweet-corn-pakoras.

Middle-Eastern Food

Possibly due to a high influx of tourists from Israel, a number of Middle Eastern restaurants have opened in Varanasi, all of which serve very similar food, cater to a predominantly tourist clientèle, and charge a little over ₹100 for a thali.

• Haifa Cafe: Assi Ghat, (in Hotel Haifa). Most popular for its Middle-Eastern cuisine such as the thali (delicious!), but has a wide range of Indian and continental dishes and is also popular at breakfast. The Jordanian brothers aren't here anymore. Its now just a regular hotel. The food is awful too with the Jordanians gone.
• Hayat mediterreian': near Assi (new location= behind dumraon bag colony park), managed by authentic middle-easterners (from Jordan). Try the labanha (dry yoghurt), or the baba ghanSoush (eggplant) with pita. The Nanas (mint-lemon drink) are the best in town. The feta is a tad high in salt, but at least they have it. The restaurant has a tent-like lounge atmosphere that gives it a cult presence. Ask for "hello to the queen" and see smiles. Very good quality, pleasant open air magnetosphere.
• Phulwari / Sami Cafe: near the Vishwanath Temple crossing, you sit beside a religiously near-defunct but architecturally gorgeous Mahadev temple, and sip on iced teas and nanas. Some locals still consider this a holy site and aren't too happy about the cafe being so close. This temple has been usurped by thugs who sponsor this restaurant. Avoid on ethical grounds. No other heritage Indian temple has a restaurant in its courtyard!

Splurge

• Hotel Clarks

  address: The Mall, Varanasi 221002

• Radisson Hotel

  address: The Mall Cantonment, Varanasi 221002

• Varuna

  phone: +91 542 250-300
  And Chowk, Taj Ganges Hotel, Nadesar Palace Grounds. - Two restaurants respectively offering Indian and Western cuisine. The Taj is excellent as usual.

Coffee

Coffee is not as common in Varanasi as it is in many of the bigger and more cosmopolitan cities, and is often just available as the instant variety, served black or white. Places that serve the real stuff:

• Dirty Chai Cafe

  address: Dashaswmedh Road (the narrow alley that leads from Dashaswmedh Ghat)
  Cool and modern decor, contemporary laid-back music, free Wi-Fi, tasty food, okay coffee (real beans, but an old automatic coffee machine), but extremely slow and inept service.

• Open Hand Shop & Cafe

  phone: +91 542 2369 751
  address: Assi Ghat
  The cafe has a good selection of roasted coffee as well as smoothies and fresh juices. The food selection includes set breakfast, salads, bread rolls, fruit salad, and delicious cakes and pasties. The cafe also sells fixed-price merchandise on fair-trade principles. Free Internet.

• Mona Lisa CafeOne of the few places in Varanasi to use real beans, but the selection of coffees available is limited. Food is cheap and tasty, but the cafe lacks charm and so don't plan to spend your day there.

Alcohol

Alcohol is available at a few restaurants and hotels, such as the Radisson and Taj. There are several wine shops in the old city but they don't offer any sitting arrangement. You can buy whatever you want and bring it to your hotel room.

• Radisson Hotel Varanasi

  phone: +91 542 250 1515
  address: The Mall, Cantonment
  Alcoholic drinks are available in the bar.

Other drinks

Bhang is a potent, powdered form of marijuana often mixed into "special" lassis, simply called bhang lassi. The drink is especially popular on holidays as Varanasi is a major center of Shiva worship as it is offered to the lord in form of Prashad. Caution should be taken as it can be quite intoxicating and the effects last hours; tourists have been known to be robbed after consuming bangh.
Thandai is cool milk based drink made with pistachios, almonds and kesar and topped off with a large dollop of malai (cream). Bhang is often added to thicken the concoction, though it can be made without. Many Tandai stores are located near the main Godowlia, and most also serve lassi.

The most interesting area to stay is around the ghats, which are the main attractions for foreigners and are close to the religious attractions. However, this area is extremely noisy and many accommodation choices here are subpar, so do some research before you book. An alternative to staying in Varanasi is to stay near the main train station (Varanasi Junction). This area has some very nice new places popping-up in the recent years and is only about 10 minutes on a tuk-tuk. Another alternative is the much quieter Sarnath, 10+ km from Varanasi, but it takes 75+ minutes each way to reach Varanasi by tuk-tuk (₹200).
Some budget accommodations advertise free morning and evening boat rides along the river. However, the boat will take you up the river and then let the passengers know that for the return trip, there is a fee of ₹60 per person. Those who do not want to pay can get out of the boat and walk back.
Beware that Varanasi, particularly during summer, is prone to many hours of power outages a day. It is best to double check that your fan or A/C is run from a backup generator, or you may not have it for much of the day.

Budget

Cheaper hotels and hostels can be found around the "Assi ghat" and train station areas, check hot water and wifi for yourself.

Hostels

• Ganges Nirvana Free Hostel

  phone: +91 9999230102, +91 9235135611, +91 5422360331
  address: Shashwat Shandilya House, Plot no. 175, Lane no.2, Shree Ram Nagar Colony
  The Ganges Nirvana Free Hostel a small hostel. It is very simple and work is underway to make it more homely. For example by painting the walls with graffiti. If you want to help out with any small thing, you are welcome to stay for free. You will stay with people from couchsurfing, workaway and other places, and the owner often arranges small free trips (just share the expenses for gas) around and outside of town. Great rooftop terrace in a noise free area of Varanasi.

• International Travellers' Hostel

  phone: +91-542-2220058
  address: C-32/4, Vidyapeeth Road
  A hostel run out of an ancestral family house. The owner lives in Germany and his staff manage the hostel. There are mixed and female dormitories available with 4-5 beds each. There is a cottage-style superior room with en-suite bathroom for the ones with a slightly higher budget, and a tent for the ones on extremely tight budget. Breakfast inclusive prices can be booked online. The rooms are cozy and silent with comfortable beds. The hostel also features a bistro that serves delicious vegetarian and vegan meals. Their menu also includes rare-to-find-in-India authentic Italian coffee. There are several pleasant common areas – including a garden and a first-floor terrace. It's a great place to be away from the chaos of Varanasi. Very good to socialize with other travellers, and for celebrating Indian festivals, especially Holi. Amenities include fast Wi-Fi, TV, bluetooth speakers, DVDs, books, card & board games, PC, lockers, washing machine, hair dryers, communal kitchen and purified drinking water. Free vegan toiletries' kit is provided with private rooms and vegan soap bar with other rooms. They also have dual power back-up (battery inverter and power generator), which can be very helpful during power outages in the scorching Indian summers. All-in-all a unique hostel and highly recommended.

• Ram Bhawan / Kautilya Society Residence

  phone: +91 542-2452179, +91 542-2455139
  address: D-20/21 Munshi Ghat
  This is the study center of an NGO that supports responsible development through dialogue that also offers rooms for students and scholars. The residence is similar to an Indian home with simple comforts and colonial teak furniture. In accordance with Indian law, all guests must become members of the Society and pay membership dues of ₹300. These donations cover half board (₹200 per day for additional guests sharing the same room). In low season rates are approximately 20% lower. Long term guests can enjoy special discounts.

• Stops Art Hostel

  phone: +91 9871360382
  address: B 20/47, A-2, Vijayanagaram Colony, Bhelupur
  Bright, airy, super modern hostel. Location in an alleyway makes it quieter. In a large 3 floor house. Affordable organized activities all day including walking tours (₹100+transport), boat trips, cooking classes (₹200), yoga/mediation classes, movie nights, etc...The hostel is run by a very professional young Indian couple with superb English and a very keen understanding of what a hostel should be with full recommendations for eating, drinking, tourism etc. It has A/C, 24 hour security and a very happy relaxed vibe, especially out on the shaded balconies on the upper floor, complete with benches and sofas, great for meeting other travellers. Highly recommended.

• Zostel Varanasi

  phone: +91 964 800 0010
  address: D-54/16-D, Jaddumandi, Aurangabad Luxa Road
  A friendly hostel located 20 minutes walk to the main ghat. Very noisy location, but a great place to meet people.

Guesthouses

• Bhadrakali Guest House

  phone: +91 542 245 4104
  address: Along the river, just off the main ghat
  The guesthouse is a colourful, family-owned, music-oriented house with panoramic views of the city and of the River Ganga. A couple of the rooms in this cozy 7 room Guesthouse also have balconies and river views. Highly recommended.

• Ganga Fuji HomeSome rooms have shared bathroom; more expensive rooms have A/C and TV. All rooms are clean, with clean sheets and towel. The rooftop restaurant offers evening concerts every night.

• Golden Lodge

  phone: +91 99355 12368
  address: D. 8/35, Kalika Gali
  Tucked away in the alleyways, friendly staff. Restaurant on site.

• Groovy Ganges Guesthouse

  phone: +91 993 618 0896
  address: B2/225, B-6-A, Bhadaini
  Live in an Indian home with an Indian family. Popular with long-term students, researchers, and activists wanting to integrate into local culture. Boiled water is used for all cooking. Book well in advance since many clients are long term.

• Hotel River View

  address: K-20/133,134 Rajmandir Brahma Ghat

• Kedar Guest House

  phone: +91 542 236 8853
  address: B-1/148-A-2-KH, Lodging Street, Dumraon Colony
  Highly recommended. Amazing views. The owner is very knowledgeable and will give you maps and explain Varanasi.

• Maa Vaishno Guest House

  phone: +91 938 917 8569
  address: B5/188 Shivala Ghat
  One of the cheapest decent guesthouses in the area. Family run guesthouse. 10 clean rooms, all with attached bathroom with running hot and cold shower and view of the Ganga. Roof top restaurant, sunrise & sun set from roof & room, Free Wi-Fi, laundry service.

• Marigold P. Guest House

  phone: +919559811240
  address: D20/10-D Munshi Ghat, Dashashwmedh Ghat
  Rooftop view of the Ganges. Highly recommended.

• Maruti Guest House

  phone: +91 231 2261
  address: Sahodarbir (near Assi Ghat)
  Friendly family run guest house with clean well lit rooms. There is a roof top garden and restaurant where fresh home made food is served. Power backup for the rooms and hot showers are available as well as broadband Internet access. The owner of the guest house, Dr. V.N. Tripathi, gives Yoga and meditation lessons upon request.

• Mishra Guest House

  phone: +91 542 240 1143
  address: Ck 8/178 Garwasi tolla Gaumath
  The rooftop restaurant offers free evening concerts every night.

• Monu Family Paying Guest House

  phone: +91 542 240 0908
  address: D8/4 Kalika Gali
  Music, cookery and language courses are available.

• Radiant YMCA Tourist Hostel

  phone: +91 542-2224951, +91 542 2223831
  address: Mahmoorganj Road, Sampoornanand Nagar Colony
  Opened in 1998. Restaurant with large menu. Does not have dormitories, despite being called a hostel.

• Sahi Riverview Guest House

  address: B1/158 A2, Assi Ghat
  Very clean and quiet. Great river views! Free wifi. Recommended.

• Shiva Kashi Guest House

  phone: +91 923 551 2294
  address: D22/4 Chausatti Ghat
  Very clean, well-decorated, quiet guest house. Pleasant and helpful staff. Rooms have windows, are light and airy. Some have balconies. Highly recommended.

• Sita Guest House

  phone: +91 542 2450061, +91 542 3251088
  address: Chausatti Ghat
  Rooms are reasonably clean, somewhat small and most have a view over the river. Supposedly hot water in every room, the hotel also has a generator for the many power cuts in Varanasi but this often doesn't cover the A/C. Rooftop restaurant.

• Tiwari Guest Lodge

  phone: +91 2315129
  address: B-1/243-A, Assi Ghat
  Run by a Brahmin and has a small temple on the site. Very relaxed and well maintained by local standards but do not expect staff to be present all the time. For check-in, the owner can usually be found sitting in the aryuvedic massage cubicle late afternoons. Bring your sheets and towel. Door is locked from midnight to 6AM.

• Vishnu Rest House

  phone: +919936438706
  address: Pandey Ghat
  A hotel spanned over 200 year old Vishnu temple. A very clean and friendly guest house over looking the river, some rooms with views. You will often find classical music programs and puja held during morning and evening time. The rooms are with power backup and hot water.

Mid-range

• Diamond Hotel

  phone: +91 542 2276696
  address: Durgakund Road, Bhelupur

• Gautam Hotel

  phone: +91 94530 37806
  address: C-26/35D, Lahurabir, Ramkatora Crossing
  A budget 3-star hotel. Not walkable to the ghats.

• Hotel New Temple's Town

  phone: +91 542-2507733, +91 542-2507735
  address: 53, Patel Nagar, Cantonment

Splurge

• The Gateway Hotel Ganges Varanasi

  phone: +91 542 250 3001
  address: Nadesar Palace Grounds
  A five-star hotel owned by the Taj Group. 130 rooms set on 40 acres of gardens. The building is in the shape of a Swastik.

• Taj Nadesar Palace

  phone: +91 542 6660002-06
  address: Nadesar Palace Grounds
  A five-star hotel owned by the Taj Group. The building of the hotel used to be the residence of Mr. Davis, the Magistrate of Benares, in January of 1799. The same palace was later occupied by Maharaja Prabhu Narain Singh during his rule between 1889-1931.

• A Palace on the River, Rashmi Guest House

  phone: +91 542 240 2778
  address: D, 16/28-A
  Great views and location.

• Radisson Hotel Varanasi

  phone: +91 542 250 1515
  address: The Mall, Cantonment

• Ramada Plaza JHV

  phone: +91 542 2510000
  address: The Mall Cantonment

• Hotel Surya

  phone: +91 542 2508466
  address: S. 20/51 A-5 The Mall Road Nepali Kothi

Violent crime is rare, but still do be careful in the lanes after dark.

Power outages

Carry a light or phone; power outages are extremely common, and the alleys are hard enough to navigate in daylight, let alone in pitch dark, because of their broken paving stones and cows common.

Stray dogs

Though generally well behaved, packs of stray dogs can become aggressive at night

Rickshaw / taxi scams

Rickshaw / taxi scams are common in Varanasi, and the driver will inevitably tell you that the hotel that you wish to go to has burned down, is flooded, or closed. Don't believe him. Drivers receive commission from hotels for bringing in new guests, and this is one way to trick newcomers to going to these places. Don't get annoyed, but see the exchange as playful banter and part of the Varanasi experience. However, if the driver continuously refuses to follow your instructions, threaten to get out of the rickshaw. If after all this you still end up to a different place, just refuse to pay until you arrive at your hotel. The same procedure will need to be followed when sight seeing, as drivers will inevitably try to take you to handicraft stores, from which they receive commission. If calling for a pickup from a more respectable hostel, be wary that other taxi drivers may listen in to your phone conversation then tell another taxi driver who will pick you up pretending to be your hostel, then take you to a commision charging hostel.

Cremation ghat scams

As you approach Manikarnika Ghat, you will be approached by touts posing as cremators or volunteers in a local hospice. These people will explain the cremation process and even lead you to a good viewpoint. They will then take advantage of your emotions by asking you to pay for some wood to burn the body of someone who can't afford it. They will usually insist on receiving ₹500 - if you offer less, it will be initially be declined. This is a complete scam. Either tell him you have no money or that you don't feel comfortable donating.

Air pollution

Varanasi is one of the most polluted cities in the world. Many websites show air quality readings taken in the early morning, when pollution is at its lowest. Hourly air quality data is available here . Keep an eye on air quality data and consider wearing a (certified) mask, especially if you are spending an extended period of time in the city.

Cremation ghats

There is, rather understandably, some resentment at tourists tresspasing up to the cremation ghats for raucous sightseeing at the funeral ceremonies of loved ones. Behave respectfully and do not take photographs of cremations, even from the river. You can take photographs if it is from a distance; most do not mind. There are touts who for a fee will "stop minding". Note that if it is the family that objects then you have to respect it but not if local touts object in the interest of extracting money. Offer the money and if they seem ready to accept, withdraw it and photograph! Call the police if necessary.

Temples

Since this city is full of temples you will have to take off your shoes/sandals at every point, so wear a flip flop which is easy to take off.

BSNL, Reliance,Idea, and Airtel are the most popular cell phone services in the region. If you bring your GSM cellphone from home, you can buy a SIM card and call within India and abroad. You will need your passport and a passport photo to buy a SIM card.
Wi-Fi is available at just about every hotel or restaurant that caters to foreign tourists. Internet Cafes are common, especially in the lanes between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat. Usually, the shopkeepers will record your passport information before giving you access to the Wi-Fi.
Calling abroad is cheap from Iway branches.

• Agra - the next point on the tourist "Golden Triangle". Buses and trains, including overnight trains, leave several times a day.
• Allahabad - Another spiritual city along the Ganges, Allahabad can be reached via a 3-hour bus ride.
• Delhi - The capital city of India can be reached via a 13-hour train ride.
• Gaya - One of the most sacred places to do Pind Dan (funeral offerings for the benefit of the soul of the deceased). A 4+ hour drive from Varanasi.
• Jaunpur - The district just northwest of Varanasi, it is primarily a rural area.
• Khajuraho - South of Varanasi, it is a bit out of the way, but is famous for its many 1,000+ year-old Hindu and Jain temples.
• Lucknow - known for its good food, it is a good place to stop for a day on the way to Delhi.
• Nepal - buses travel to the Nepali border where you can transfer to Kathmandu and Chitwan buses. Most buses go via Gorakhpur and can take 8-12 hours, or there are daily flights. There are a number of travel agents in Varanasi which will sell you tourist/AC buses to Kathmandu or Pokhara. Avoid these services (especially the operator Paul Travels) because they are not actually tourist buses. Instead, they are actually the local, public buses and once you get across the Nepal border, they will try to get more money from you.
• Sarnath - One of the most sacred places for Buddhists, known as the place where Buddha gave his first speech after his enlightenment. 10+ km from Varanasi (ghat area), 1 hour+ by tuk-tuk (₹300 each way - ₹500 there and back, including waiting time)