Yangon

As the country's former capital, Yangon is the largest and most cosmopolitan city in Myanmar, where you can find nightlife, quality international restaurants, and many of the country's Museums. The city is an amalgamation of British, Burmese, Chinese, and Indian influences, known for its colonial architecture, which although decaying, remains an almost unique example of a 19th century British colonial capital in Asia. New high-rise buildings were constructed from the 1990s as the government began to allow private investment and with the introduction of reforms in 2013 many new buildings are being constructed and refurbished in the city centre. Meanwhile, former government buildings such as the massive Secretariat Building, have been left to rot as the capital was shifted to Naypyidaw.
Yangon's former name was not the only victim of change in this country. For one, the country's name was changed. To add to the on-going identity crisis, the city has been stripped of its status as capital. The nation's capital has been relocated to a remote new site called Naypyidaw, built from scratch. The flag too has been changed, redesigned in 2010, replacing the old one which replaced another one slightly more than a decade ago.
While the government still requires foreigners to register their passports at hotels and private residences, the government no longer spends efforts to follow or otherwise monitor tourists and foreigners in Yangon. Note that it is illegal to stay in a private residence without registering with the local Township authorities.

By plane

• Yangon International AirportThere are several accommodation options in the immediate vicinity of the airport to fit every budget.

Getting there/away: The easiest way to get to and from the airport is by taxi (US$10 from airport to city or 7,000 kyat from the city to airport, all pre-paid). It is possible to use a public bus. If you exit the international terminal and turn right, walking along the road for about 10 min, you'll hit Pyay Rd, from where you can take public bus 51 which will take you one block east of Sule Paya (200 kyat). Thus, the cheapest was to get to the airport is to take that bus, get off at Airport Rd, and take a taxi for the remaining kilometre (about US$1 after bargaining) or just walk. To get to the city you could theoretically ask the driver at the airport to drop you off at that bus stop if you don't feel like walking. The name of the bus stop is "Mile 10" on Pyay Rd and it's line 51, but you might have trouble being understood if nobody writes it down for you in Burmese script with precise instructions (thus using this option to get to the airport is much easier because you can ask your hotel for help). Another option is to share a taxi.
International: There are direct flights to RGN from Bangkok, Hong Kong, Chiang Mai, Dubai, Dhaka, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Gaya, Kolkata, Kunming, Guangzhou, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Taipei. International Airlines servicing RGN include Thai Airways, Emirates, Bangkok Air, Biman Bangladesh, Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia, Korean Airlines, Silk Air, Vietnam Airlines, China Airlines, Dragon Air and Air India. Coffee, tea and very basic snacks (packaged biscuits and single serving cakes) are available inside the security area. The international terminal has free Wi-Fi.
Domestic: The domestic terminal is 200 m past the international terminal, and is old and tired looking. Facilities are minimal (espresso coffee, tea, local beer, limited hot food, and basic packaged snacks are available) but, as a consequence, check-in is simple and quick and bags arrive quickly from arriving aircraft. Ancient buses ferry passengers to their aircraft. Pre-paid taxis are available, paid at the taxi counter inside the baggage claim area, but it is easier and cheaper to exit the terminal and negotiate directly with the taxi czar who controls the taxi trade at Mingladon. Try not to allow porters to carry your luggage, as they will demand specified tips and hassle you. This is especially a problem in the domestic terminal as there is no customs to pass through with your bags. If a porter has not attached himself to a hapless tourist, he may take random bags off the luggage trolley, hoping someone will follow him. The full service, with no going to counters or luggage concerns will cost a few thousand kyat.

By train

• Yangon Central Railway Station

There are several train lines that connect Yangon to the rest of Burma. Several trains daily connect Yangon to Mandalay via Bago with connections to Bagan and the Inle Lake area at Thazi. Most trains leave early in the morning (02:00 or 03:00) and arrive late at night. Yangon-Mandalay fares for a sleeper are US$35-50, for a seat are US$30-40 in first class and US$10-15 in second class. There is also a direct train line between Yangon and Bagan (US$35) but trains take almost 24 hr for a bumpy journey and the change at Thazi is a better bet.
The oldest line in Burma is the Yangon-Pyay line and it shows its age. But, the 9-hr journey (US$15) along the Irrawaddy basin is well worth it. Three trains leave from Pyay. 1) Start 02:00 and arrives 13:40 at Kyemyindine station (11½ hr). 2) Start 06:15 and arrives 17:30 at Kyemyindine station (11 hr). 3) Start 23:30, arrival 07:50 at Yangon central (8½ hr). Upper class 3,900 and ordinary seat 1,950 kyat.
The Mawlamyine line is equally bumpy and the 9 hr express (06:15, US$17-11) and 11 hr slow train (07:00, US$14-5) is slightly longer than by road. On this trip in first class you get your own seat and it's slightly less crowded, but there isn't much else different between the classes.
Trains also run to Pathein in the Irrawaddy delta but are very slow and the bus is a better alternative.

By boat

A hundred and fifty years ago, boats were the way to get to places from Yangon and IWT (Inland Water Transport) passenger ferries still ply the major rivers. Yangon to Mandalay takes 5 days with a change at Pyay (3 days) and the return trip (downriver) takes three days. The ferry leaves Pyay every Friday at 06:30 and arrives in Yangon on Sunday at 21:40.
A luxury ferry (the Delta Queen) recalls the colonial era on the Yangon-Pathein route (about 20 hr, US$170/person). The IWT ferry to Pathein takes 15 hr for the overnight trip (US$35/10).

By bus

• Aung Mingalar Bus Terminal

  address: Pyay Rd, North Okkalapa
  To destinations such as Bagan, Kalaw, Mandalay, Taunggyi for Inle Lake, Bago, Hpa-An, Mwlamyiane, Pyay, Lashio. Buses depart around 09:00 and 21:00. There are ticket offices representing all companies outside the stadium opposite the main train station. Many offer ferry services to the Highway Bus Station in a pickup for 1,000 kyat. A taxi will cost around 6,000 kyat.

There is heavy competition on the Mandalay route with air conditioned fares ranging from 10,500 kyat (Mandalar Minn, E lite) to 18,000 kyat for a 3 seat across VIP bus (E lite). E lite has an all new fleet with several departures early morning and evening. The new highway has dramatically reduced travel times north with the Mandalay trip taking just over 8 hr with a good bus.
Buses to/from Bagan are poorer value at 15,000 kyat. At the stadium, you can get bus tickets for 13,000 kyat (haggle!).
Several buses go from Pyay, a few of which have started in Sittwe 18 hr before that. From Pyay: 8 hr and from 10,000 kyat.
There are many buses travelling from Ngapali (Thandwe), for there are many tourist longing for the beautiful beach. From Thandwe (but also Ngapali) most Yangon buses start in the morning. The first 6-8 hr of the trip can be very exhausting, because they are through hills and on serpentines mostly only the bus will fit on. Make sure to take care of your stomach.
From Tamu an Ordinary Express departs at 07:00, and a VIP Express at 11:00. Alternatively, transferring or stopping over in Kalay, the Ordinary Express departs Kalay at 12:00, and the VIP Express at 15:00.

• Hlaing Thar Yar Bus TerminalBuses for the Irrawaddy delta region (Pathein, Chaungtha Beach, Ngwe Saung Beach). Buses to Kyaiktiyo (Kinpun) leave in the morning (4.5 hr, 6,000 kyat). Buses for Mawlamyine (6 hr via the new bridge) leave in the mornings and late at night (8,000 kyat). Buses to Sittwe and Thandwe (Ngapali Beach) are also available, but the road is bad and the journey long.

Going to the city from the Highway Bus Station is possible on Bus 43 for 300 kyat. The bus passes in front of the entrance to the station. Just ask the helpful locals. On the way to the terminal, ask your hotel to write it down in Burmese script and catch the bus from the city hall across from Sule Paya to the city centre for 200 kyat. Better than the horrible transfer timex (see shuttle ticket below) that sometimes make you wait at Aung Minglar for 3 hours. Bus 43 takes about 1 hr to get there, but give yourself some time to check in and allow for potential delays, leaving 2 hr from Sule Paya before your bus leaves.
Thanks to the new bridge and upgraded road, buses to Pathein take less than 4h and the journey is comfortable. Add 45 min by taxi to get to the Hlaing Thar Yar Bus Terminal though. 6,000 kyat.
Big bus companies serving the main tourist destinations (Aung Mingalar Bus Terminal) have sales offices across from Yangon train station (can also buy "shuttle ticket" to Bus Terminal for 1,000 kyat here).

• Aung Zha BridgeOver Hlaing River connect Insein township with Hlaing Thar Yar township

• Bayint Naung Bridge

  address: Dagon Township
  Over Hlaing River

• Maha Bandula Bridge

  address: Maha Bandula Rd, Dagon
  A bridge over Ngamoeyeik Creek

• Nga Moe Yeik Bridge

  address: Upper Pazundaung Rd connect with Ayer Wun Main Rd
  A bridge over Ngamoeyeik Creek

• Pun Hlaing River Bridge

• Thaketa Bridge

  address: Dagon
  A bridge over Ngamoeyeik Creek

• Thuwunna Bridge

  address: Wai Za Yan Tar Rd
  A bridge over Ngamoeyeik Creek

By taxi

The easiest way to get around the city is by taxi and Yangon is the city where Toyotas come to live out the rest of their days. Plenty of old white Toyota Corolla taxis ply the streets and will pull over if you stick your hand out. Genuine taxis have red licence plates, carry a laminated green slip, and a large-print taxi driver identification card on the dashboard of the car, but all taxis are reliable. Be warned though that around lunchtime and late at night, it may be hard to hail one. Taxis are always available outside the bigger hotels, on Sule Pagoda Rd, outside Cafe Aroma, and, during the day, outside the south entrance to the Shwedagon Pagoda. Away from the city centre, for example, near the budget hotels in Pazundaung Township, you may have to wait a bit before a taxi shows up and it may be easier to ask your hotel to call one for you. If you're travelling in the early hours (for example, to catch a 04:00 train or flight), arrange one with your hotel the previous evening. You will always, at all hours, find a taxi outside the Central Hotel on Bogoyoke Aung San Rd.
It is customary to negotiate prices prior to the trip but, other than tacking on an informal tourist surcharge, you'll very rarely be cheated. If you're not sure how much you should pay, it is safe to assume the driver is charging you an extra 500 kyat because you're a foreigner. Ask for 500 kyat less than the stated price if in doubt. Approximate fares are: city centre to airport, 6,000-8,000 kyat; city centre to Shwedagon Pagoda, 2,500-3,000 kyat; city centre to Pazundaung Township, 2,500 kyat; city centre to Aung San Suu Kyi's house, 3,000 kyat; city centre to Kandawgyi Lake area, 3,000 kyat; city centre to Aung Mingalar Bus Terminal, 5,000-6,000 kyat; city centre to Hlaing Thar Yar Bus Terminal, 4,000 kyat. Expect to pay more, sometimes twice as much, when it rains and late at nights.
Most taxi drivers will be happy to negotiate an hourly (3,000 kyat) or daily (US$20-30) or longer rate. Taxis will take you anywhere and you can, in theory, hail a taxi and negotiate a trip to Pathein or Bago or other destinations at a much lower price than through a travel agency.
Taxi drivers charge a minimum fare of 1,500 kyat even for short trips. It seems like meters are never used, even when present.
Grab (taxi app popular in South-East Asia) can also help you catch taxis at a fair price.

By train

• Yangon Circular RailwayA loop system that connects the downtown to the suburbs. A fascinating way to get a glimpse of daily life in Yangon. Tickets are available at the stationmaster's office (Platform 7, Yangon Station), . The station itself, in British colonial style, is a grand building that combines functional Western styles with Burmese architectural elements (layered ornamental roof). Vendors, vegetable sellers, monks, commuters, all use the train which passes through the many villages that surround Yangon. The scenery changes from urban to rural fairly quickly and villages with ponds, children and cows passing by. At Yangon Central Station, the train departs from either Platform 4 or 7, one going clockwise and the other going anti-clockwise. It is best is to choose whichever arrives first. Do get on the train at fast pace, as the train stops at the station for a short while only and leaves whether or not people have fully boarded the train. The journey takes 3 hr.

By trishaw

Trishaws are scarce in the city centre (and not permitted before 10:00), but more readily available in downtown and the surrounding townships. Negotiate fares in advance, but 500-1,000 kyat for a short ten min ride, while a little more than a local would pay, is appropriate.

By bus

Using buses is safe and very cheap, the only drawback is that the network is hard to understand. Most of the locals can't speak English and the signs and bus numbers are written in Burmese. Yangon Bus Service (YBS), operated by Yangon Region Transport Authority (YRTA), started the operations in January 2017. The new bus network has reduced the number of lines from previous some 300 to about 70.
There are some apps that might come handy, although they are in Burmese, showing the bus stops and individual bus lines on the map (e.g. Yangon Bus Service Official App for Android).

By boat

A ferry crosses the river to Dallah from the Pansodan St Jetty.

• Nan Thida Ferry Terminal and Pansodan Ferry Terminal

  address: Pansodan Street and Strand Road corner

• Botahtaung Jetty

  address: Botahtaung Pagoda Road

On foot

Distances in the tourist areas are not great and, provided you take it easy, you can walk almost anywhere. The pavements can be very crowded though, particularly on Anawratha Rd, so expect to be constantly bumped into and to have to negotiate your way across vendors selling everything from hot samosas and curry to screwdrivers, TV remote controls to jeans. Many of the footpaths and pavements have large holes, mismatched pavers, or missing/unstable covers over drains. Walking on the footpath after dark can be treacherous, so either carry a torch or, like most locals, walk on the edge of the roadway which is normally in a (marginally) better state of repair.

Relatively untouched by development compared of other major Southeast Asian cities, the city centre of Yangon is full of historical sights. Yangon is perhaps the best preserved example of a European colonial capital in Southeast Asia.

Shwedagon Paya

• Shwedagon Paya

The Shwedagon Pagoda or Paya is the most important religious site in Myanmar. The pagoda stands on the top of Singuttara Hill, and, according to legend, that spot has been sacred since the beginning of time, just before our present world was created. At that time, five lotus buds popped up on the hill, each bud signifying the five Buddhas who would appear in the world and guide it to Nirvana. Gautama, the Buddha as we know him, is the fourth of these five (Maitreya, the fifth, will announce the end of the world with his appearance) and, according to the legend, two brothers brought eight hairs of the Buddha to be enshrined in this sacred location, inaugurating the Shwedagon Pagoda. Whatever the truth of the legend, verifiable history records a pagoda at the site since the 6th century CE. Built and rebuilt, gilded and regilded, almost nothing in the pagoda is likely to be old, except whatever is hidden deep inside the stupa. An earthquake (18th century) destroyed the upper half of the pagoda spire and many buildings. Burmese Buddhists are practical people who constantly build and rebuild pagodas for merit.
The pagoda is an interesting place: multicoloured neon highlighting a galaxy of colours, textures and shapes. It is also a jungle of spires with superior Myanmar woodcarving embellishment playfully mixed and matched with modern building materials such as corrugated roofing. Unlike other religious sites, it has a spiritual as well as a secular feel about it. Children run up and down singing songs, monks sit on the steps chatting, young men cast amorous glances at women, women stand around gossiping, all while others are deep in prayer in front of whatever shrine has significance for them. The Shwedagon captures the essence of both the informal nature as well as the strong ties that signify the relationship that the Burmese have with their Buddhism.

• GuidesGuides, official and unofficial are available for US$5 (extra US$1/1,000 kyat tip). The quality is variable, but most guides are friendly and helpful. The pagoda is vast and complex and, if you can afford the extra cost, the company and practical information on what's going around you is worth the expense.

• FoodThe closest restaurant is at the intersection of the Shwedagon Pagoda Rd and U Hlaung Bo St (at the bottom of the south walkway). There are some tea shops on a small roadway that describes a semicircle just below the top of the pagoda where you can get tea and biscuits. North of the pagoda, on Inya Rd and outside the Savoy, are many places to eat, fincluding a good fast food restaurant for pizza, coffee and sandwiches. Bring water; the heat of the sun can get to you if you visit during the daytime. No food or bottled water is available on the platform itself, but water is available from one of the many water dispenser. It's clean, cool and free.

• Disabled visitorsA road on the south side leads halfway up the Singuttara Hill and an elevator can take you the rest of the way. Alternatively, if not in a wheelchair, head for the Western entrance from where escalators are available all the way to the top. The escalators are free for foreigners (or rather, included in the price of the ticket).

• Dress codeDress reasonably and keep your legs covered (long skirts, halfway between knee and ankle, are fine; shorts, on men or women, are not). Longyi are available at the ticket booth if you arrive overly uncovered.

• ShoesAs with nearly all Buddhist monuments, footwear is not permitted. However unusual here is that socks also are not permitted to be worn. Almost all visitors including all locals remove their footwear at the gates before even setting foot inside the complex. There are places to leave your shoes at the bottom of every walkway for a nominal fee (5 kyat) but that can be a problem if, say, you enter using the east walkway and wish to leave by the north. Carry a plastic shopping bag, pop your shoes into that bag, and carry it around with you while on the walkways and platforms. A minor scam are people handing out plastic bags just outside the complex, if you accept you will then be asked to pay at least US$1: just ignore them and leave your shoes & socks at the official places. If you can, visit during the early morning or in the late afternoon / evening so the white marble tiles do not burn your feet.

Things to see at the Shwedagon

• PlanThe pagoda is shaped similar to a Greek cross. There are four entrances at each of the four cardinal directions flanked by gargantuan sculptures of mythical Burmese lions. These entrances open up to the four walkways as the appendages of the cross ascending to the top via flights of steps. At the top is the octagonal intersection of the cross which consists of the stupa at the very centre itself surrounded by shrines that can qualify as temples by themselves and separated from the Stupa by a vast open walkway paved with spic and span shiny marble tiles. The stupa is further surrounded by a string of micro shrines: small celled structures housing the icon of the Buddha himself and interspersed by lion sculptures, and then further inwards, another string of micro stupas surround the stupa superstructure.

• Walkways to The PagodaFour covered walkways lead up to the pagoda from the plains surrounding the hills. The east walkway is the most interesting, crowded as it is with vendors selling items for pilgrims (candles, flowers, gold leaf, stones and other paraphernalia of Burmese Buddhist worship) and souvenirs for tourists (Buddhas, lacquer ware and thanaka). The other walkways are less interesting but the west walkway has escalators and the southern has an elevator. Walking up the Eastern walkway to the top and allowing the beauty of the pagoda it to emerge remains the best way to get up the hill.
  The entrances are striking: there is a pair of mythical and stylized stone lions guarding the doorway framing the grand staircase as if this scene is coming out from a biblical film set. To view clearly these mythical lions, one simply has to examine the Myanmar currency notes where it is featured practically in all denominations. The Great Stupa is visible at dark, multicoloured neon lightings highlight its profile
  Another attraction of this temple in general and the walkways in particular are the 3D murals of the Jataka tales in Myanmarese interpretation showing distinctive Myanmar landscape, temple and toddy palm dotted countryside, country life, architecture, palace and court scenery and pageantry, temple scenes, period costumes, mythological nagas and nats, elephants, lions and dragons. These 3D murals flank the upper part of the walls of all the four entrances.

• The Pagoda PlatformAlthough similar in concept to Mecca's kaaba, surrounded by a vast space, the pagoda platform where people may make rounds of the stupa, is a religious space without pomp and circumstance and is one of the best places in the world to sit and people watch. Find a comfortable step, or sit on the floor, and look around. Children run up and down, perhaps singing and shouting with abandon. Women cluster in groups gossiping. Couples, young and old stroll up and down. Burgundy robed monks are everywhere. Here and there, at the many shrines that dot the platform and sit around the stupa, people pray, seriously and silently. Bells ring. There is no awe here, only life, religious and secular life. Sit there long enough and someone will stop to chat with you, to ask questions, to exchange information.

• Day ShrinesThere are eight shrines, one for each day of the week (in the Burmese calendar, Wednesday is divided into two parts), dotted around the eight corners of the stupa (the stupa is octagonal), and most Burmese pray at their day shrine when visiting a pagoda. If you can figure out the day of the week when you were born, light a candle, place some flowers, or pour water over the shrine corresponding to that day. Starting from the south entrance, and going clockwise, the eight planetary posts are: Mercury (Wednesday morning, before noon), Saturn (Saturday), Jupiter (Thursday), Rahu (no planet, Wednesday afternoon), Venus (Friday), Sun (Sunday), Moon (Monday), Mars (Tuesday). Each shrine also has a beast associated with it, the most interesting one being the Gahlon, a mythical half-bird half-beast said to guard Mount Meru (the shrine for Sunday).

• Statue of Wa Thon Da RayThe statue of Wa Thon Da Ray, the guardian angel of the earth, is to the left of the south walkway. Wa Thon Da Ray is said to have saved the Buddha from burning by wrapping her wet hair around the earth. The long tresses are clearly visible in the stone statue that stands in her honour.

• The Arakanese Prayer PavilionA little before the west walkway, was a gift of the Rakhaing people of Arakan. The prayer hall itself is ordinary, but the wood carvings on the roof are exquisite, probably the finest in the pagoda complex.

• Maha Ganda BellKnown locally as the Singu Min Bell (after King Singu, who donated it to Shwedagon), the Maha Ganda bell was cast between 1775 and 1779 and weighs 23 tonnes. Impressed by the size of the bell, the British attempted to take it as war booty after the First Burmese War (1825), but dropped it into the Yangon River instead. The story goes that the British tried everything to get the bell out of the water, but all their technology was of no avail. Giving up, they told the Burmese that they could have it back if they could get it out of the water. The Burmese, with some bamboo rafts, managed to retrieve the bell and it was returned to the pagoda. Pick up a mallet and bang on the bell for luck. Behind the bell, a small pavilion provides excellent views of the stupa (spectacular at night) and a panoramic view of the city.

• Naungdawgyi Pagoda and Sandawdwin TazaungLeft of the north walkway, the Naungdawgyi or Elder pagoda is supposed to mark the spot where the sacred strands of the Buddha's hair were placed and washed before being enshrined in the stupa. Women are not allowed onto the Elder pagoda platform. Close by is the Sandawdwin Tazaung (Hair Relics Well) which provided the water for the washing. The well is odd because it is fed by the Irrawaddy rather than by ground water and the level of water in this well rises and falls with the tides.

• Dhammazedi InscriptionA 1485 tablet that relates the story of the Shwedagon in Pali, Mon, and Burmese. One of the few verifiably antique objects in the pagoda complex.

Other religious sites

• Saint Anthony R.C. Church

  address: Bo Min Yaung St

• Botataung Paya

  address: Strand Rd
  The original pagoda was destroyed by allied bombing during the Second World War but the site has a legendary history as long as that of the Shwedagon or the Sule Paya, and it is supposed to house more strands of the Buddha's hair brought to the site by a thousand soldiers (hence the name which means "1,000 officers"). The rebuilt stupa is hollow inside, and many relics (though not the hair) are on display. While not spectacular like the Shwedagon, the river-front setting and the hollow stupa make it worth visiting. Entrance fee: 6,000 kyat

• Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda

  address: Shwe Gon Taing Rd, Bahan Township
  A temple that is home to an impressive reclining Buddha that is 65 m long and 6 storeys high.

• St Francis of Assisi Church

  address: Kyaik Ka San Rd

• Judson Church

  address: Pyay Rd

• Holy Trinity CathedralThe Anglican cathedral built by the British. It is one of two cathedrals in Yangon, and has a beautiful interior.

• Maha Wizaya Pagoda

  address: Shwe dagon Pagoda Road

• Fish and Turtle Lake

• Meilamu PayaA large expanse of land on which larger-than-life, colourful statues depicting Buddha's lives are located. Mailamu Paya also showcases a pavilion on a man-made lake, and several chedis.

• Muhammad Jann Mosque

  address: Banyardala Rd/Tamwe Rd

• E.A. Mumsar Mosque

  address: Kyaik Ka San Rd

• Musmeah Yeshua Synagogue

  address: 85 26th St
  The only synagogue in Yangon. It is a colonial relic, built in 1893. Its interior is beautifully maintained.

• Saint Mary's Cathedral

  address: Bo Aung Kyaw Street
  The cathedral's exterior is newly renovated, but it's still an ugly eyesore outside, but the superior Myanmarese dexterity of carving is shown in the interior's 14 Stations of the Cross. Images literally pop out of the screen in 3D fashion.

• Sein Yaung Chi Pagoda

• Siyin Baptist Church

  address: Maha Bandoola Road and 50th St cnr

• Sule Paya

  address: Maha Bandula Road
  Incongruously serving as a traffic island in the middle of the busiest intersection in central Yangon, Sule Paya is a 46 m octagonal-shaped stupa that, according to the local story, was built 2,000 years ago to house a strand of the Buddha's hair. Whether or not it has a strand of the Buddha's hair, the galleries of the pagoda are an oasis of calm from the chaotic traffic that passes around it all day long. Shoes can be left at counters at any entrance, but carry a plastic bag.

• Ta Chan Pae Mosque

  address: Upper Pansodan Rd

Parks

• Butterfly Lakes

  address: U Ba Han St

• Inya LakeThe largest lake in the city. Some parts of Inya Lake's shoreline are accessible on foot, and are known for their gardens. Along Inya Lake's shore is the famous Inya Lake Hotel, now owned by Dusit and Yangon University (in a beautiful park-like setting). Surrounding the lake are villas owned by military leaders.

• Kandawgyi Lake

  address: Kan Yeik Tha Rd, Nat Mauk St
  Recently renovated park that makes for a nice stroll. Lots of small restaurants, food stalls and a playgarden inside. The lake is best known for its karaweik (at its southeastern tip), a replica of a traditional Burmese royal boat. There is also a board walk around the south edge of the lake, affording a better view than that from the gardens. At its northwestern tip is Bogyoke Aung San Park, which is on Natmauk Rd. Main entrance is from the southeast corner. Foreigners pay 300 kyat, and there's a sign indicating there's also a 500 kyat camera charge and a 1,000 kyat video camera fee, but those don't seem to be enforced. Not all parts of the park are accesible from the southeast entrance, so you might have to walk around a bit on the street as well to see the park completely.

• Kandawgyi Nature Park

  address: Kan Yeik Tha Rd
  This is a peninsula that provides good views around the lake and is the access to the Karaweik. There are restaurants (some cheap, some expensive) dotted around the lakefront and an amphitheatre that often has free concerts. Very popular with locals on Friday and Saturday nights.

• Kandawlay Sunni Muslim Cemetery

  address: Bo Min Yaung St

• Kandawlay Shi'a Muslim Cemetery

  address: Bo Min Yaung St

• Kan Taw Mingalar Garden

• Maha Bandula Park

  address: Maha Bandula Park Street
  Known for its rose gardens. Inside the park is the Independence Monument, built to signify Myanmar's independence. The park offers a great view of the City Hall and colonial buildings.

• Martyrs' MausoleumA memorial built to honour Aung San and six cabinet members who were assassinated. The mausoleum is on a hill, and is adjacent to Shwedagon Paya. It offers a beautiful panoramic view of Yangon.

• People's Park

  address: Pyay Rd, Dhammazedi Rd, Ahlon Rd, U Wisara Rd
  Occupies 130 acres, between parliament and Shwedagon Paya and known for its large concrete water fountain. Inside the park is a museum. There are a lot of decrepit statues and relics (like ships and aircraft) as well as sterile squares in the Stalinist model, all of which gives an interesting insight to the government. Entrance fee for foreigners.

• Tamwe Muslim Cemetery

  address: Tamwe Rd

• Theingottara Park

  address: U Wisara Rd

• War Memorial Cemetery

  address: Kyun Taw Rd

• Zoological Gardens

  address: Bo Min Kaung Street
  Opened by the British in 1906. There are 145 species of 1203 land animals. During public holidays, the Elephant Circus is performed for attractions.

Miscellaneous

• Aung San Suu Kyi's House

  address: 54 University Ave
  The house is guarded by a high wall, and visitors are not allowed to enter. The most you can hope to do is to take a picture of the gate. Approximate taxi fares from the city is 3,000 kyat.

• Bogyoke Aung San Museum

  phone: +95 1 345 651
  address: 25 Bo Gyoke Museum Lane
  This is the house where Aung San lived with his wife and three children until his assassination. The house is still in original condition ans houses a museum with many interesting items on display, e.g., Aung San's car, his library and his suits. Outside is the pond where his son, Aung San Lin, drowned. The accident was one of the reasons why the family moved.

• Bahadur Shah Zafar Grave

  address: Zi Wa Ka St
  The grave of the last of the Mughal emperors in India, as well as the last ruler of the Timurid Dynasty. After the Indian rebellion of 1857, he was exiled to Rangoon together with his wife, Zeenat Mahal, and some of the remaining members of the family. Bahadur Shah died in Nov 1862. Today you can see his tomb, and if you are lucky, a guide may be there to give you a lot of information about this Sufi saint. There is no entrance fee, but you can give donations to local Sufis.

• Chinatown and Little IndiaHome to the descendants of migrants who came from China and India during the colonial era. You can still see reminders of that heritage, with Chinese clan temples, as well as Hindu temples, still to be found in these districts, as well as ethnic food.

• Central Bank of Myanmar

  address: No. 1 Industrial Road

• Centrepoint Towers

  address: Sule Pagoda Road

• City Hall

  address: Maha Bandula Road
  The seat of the city's administrative body, Yangon City Development Committee (YCDC). Construction began in 1926 and ended in 1936. The city hall has been the focal point of major political demonstrations and the site of several bombings, including one in 2000, 2008 and 2009.

• Drug Elimination Museum

  phone: +95 1 505016, +95 1 505261
  address: Kyun Taw Rd
  A huge four-storey building dedicated to fighting narcotics (mainly opium), displaying the effects of drug use and efforts finding alternative crops. The exhibits are quite outdated and dusty. The main reason for a foreigner to visit is to experience a bizarre remnant of the previous regime. Be prepared that you may be the only visitor at the, but there are plenty of staff. Camera fee for foreigners US$5.

• High Court Building

  address: Pansodan Street
  Until 2006, the Supreme Court of Myanmar was located at this complex. The building is listed on the Yangon City Heritage List.

• Martyrs MausoleumContains the tombs of Queen Suphayalat, wife of Burma’s last king; nationalist and writer Thakin Kodaw Hmaing; former UN Secretary-General U Thant; and Aung San Suu Kyi’s mother, Khin Kyi. In 1983, the structure was bombed by North Korean agents attempting to assassinate the visiting South Korean president. He escaped, but 21 others were killed. The structure was completely rebuilt, and is now much less grand than the original.

• Ministers' Building

  address: Maha Bandoola Rd
  It was the home and administrative seat of British Burma. In February 2012, 7 local companies and 3 foreign companies submitted a proposal to the Myanmar Investment Commission (MIC) to convert the Ministers' Building into a hotel and museum.

• U Thant Museum

  address: Inya Road

• National Museum

  address: 26 Pyay Rd
  Displays many Burmese historical artifacts, including regalia of the last Konbaung Dynasty. This museum has one of the better quality collections in South East Asia, containing the best of Burma's artistic heritage and superior craftsmanship. The architecture of the museum is a pathetic and crude interpretation of modern architecture. The exhibitions have been improved during 2016 and most exhibits have signs in both Burmese and English. Some rooms are dimly lit. Photography is prohibited. Do not buy books in the museum shop. Buy them at Innwa Bookstore with its varied selections, and other stores along Pansodan Rd. A book that costs US$38 in the museum costs only US$22 at Innwa.

• Strand Hotel

  address: 92 Strand Rd
  The oldest and most famous hotel in Myanmar, built by the Sarkies brothers in 1901 (who also built Penang's E&O and Singapore's Raffles). It is a national landmark and was renovated in the 1990s after years of neglect.

• Yangon Region Parliament

  address: Pyay Rd

• Thaketa Crocodile Farm

  address: Myamarlar St

• Tatmadaw Exhibition Hall

  address: U Wisara Road
• There is an abandoned amusement attached to the zoo that has many overgrown rides, while theoretically nobody is permitted to enter many people do and locals are used to tourists going in. While it is within shouting distance of the road and zoo women should be aware of their personal safety. Millions of mosquitoes thrive here in the wet season and a number of aggressive wild dogs live here too. Enter through the bus parks back fence thirty meters east of the zoo entrance, next to the mobile phone tower.

• Bogyoke Aung San Stadium

  address: Zoological Garden Road

• Dallah FerryTo Dallah, a small village across the river from Yangon, an interesting ferry ride. The ride is brief, but filled with all the craziness of a Burmese ferry: you can buy freshly sliced watermelon, cheroots, cigarettes, tea, all kinds of interesting-looking food, various knick-knacks from the many vendors who pack the ferry. The ferry ride seems more like a floating market than a means of transportation. Combine the ride with a trip to Twante for a half- or full-day trip. There is a pagoda at Dallah worth a visit, but otherwise the village is not really a destination.

• Ferris Wheel

  address: Kabar Aye Pagoda Rd

• Kokkine Swimming Club

  address: Kokkaing Swimming Club Lane

• Kyaikkasan Grounds

  address: South Race Course Rd
  A sportfield.

• Market Tour and Cooking DemonstrationThe cooking demonstration takes place upstairs in the hotel's Mindon Lounge where you will learn to prepare a traditional Burmese salad.

• National Swimming Pool

  address: U Wisara Road

• National Theatre

  address: Myoma Kyaung St

• Thamada Cinema

  address: Alan Pya Pagoda St

• Thein Byu Sport Ground

  address: Kan Yeik Tha Rd

• Thuwana National Stadium

  address: Wai Za Yan Tar Rd
• Cinemas – There are a number of cinemas that play new release English movies. Local cinemas cost only a few dollars and are usually in a good condition but the best cinema might be in Myanmar plaza. remember to stand in silence for the national anthem.

Valuable and expensive woodcraft, gemstones, food ingredient, and souvenirs. Shopping is fun in Yangon for variety of things being available, unlike other crowded countries, foreigners can visit on certain times view things without distraction. Bargaining is expected, although tourists will be charged higher prices. Street vendors in the centre are not allowed to open their shops until 18:00, by government mandate.

• A.K.K. Shopping Centre

  address: Lay Daungkan Rd

• Bespoke ClothingAlthough not as well known as Bangkok or Hong Kong, Yangon is an excellent place to have a shirt tailored. One can have a shirt with a traditional Burmese collar (mandarin collar) made for around US$6. 4-5 days should be sufficient for a shirt to be made.

• Bogyoke Aung San MarketAn excellent source for Burmese handicrafts, such as wood carvings or lacquerware. However some lacquerware are not made in the country but are sold in high prices.

• Capital Hypermarket

  address: Min Nandar Road
  Capital Hypermarket is a huge supermarket to shop freely with confidence for fresh vegetables, meat and rare ingredients. The top and only floor of the building has rare electronics, clothes for both adults and child with affordable prices, leather made clothes, shoes and bags. You can also find cheap Blu-ray Discs at the top floor near the televisions. The ground floor is full of restaurants, and on some days with discounts on furniture. Has an artist gallery on the second floor.

• ChinatownA wide selection of street vendors. Colonial coins, Chinese calendars, Chinese temples, tea shops, several markets and small running businesses.

• Junction Square Shopping Centre

  address: Kyun Taw Road
  The main attraction is the cinema, crafty stationery with high-prices and various food restaurants which is on the top floor.

• Kyee Myint Dine Night Market

  address: Zay Gyi Road/Mani May Kha Lar Street

• Kyauk Myaung Market

  address: Kyatk Ka San Road

• Market Place by Citymart

  address: Dhama Zedi Road
  Good for food shopping.

• Mingalar Zay

  address: Banyardala Road
  Market Hall?

• Shwedagon PayaThe entrance hallway offers many shops that sells, fresh and cheap coconuts, handmade bags, wooden and metal chests, paper owl charms, carved wood statues, beautiful fans, charming accessories with affordable price made from jade, and Buddha statues ranging from different sizes.

• Super One Supermarket

  address: Lay Daungkan Rd
  Super One is a department with many different items and foods by different brands from which you may not be able to find even in the biggest supermarket of Yangon.
• Junction City, One of the famous shopping center in downtown area.

Money

Rates at the airport are almost as competitive as in the city, so change your money there or withdraw cash from an ATM. Do not change at the first bank you see inside the security area. Banks beyond security offer better rates.
If you need to change money outside business hours, especially on holidays and Sundays, only banks in the airport are open. Exchange rates are poorer at guesthouses and money changers.
Every full moon day is a public holiday. Banks, money changers, some Chinese shops and all government offices will be closed.
There are more than 500 ATMs in Yangon, however not all may work. It may take awhile to find one working. The withdrawal limit is typically 300,000 kyat plus a processing fee of 5,000 kyat.
When bringing in US dollars, the best exchange rates are for US$100 and US$50 notes. Smaller notes (US$1, US$5 and US$10) are indispensable to pay for admissions and transportation, which are sometimes charged in US dollars only. Bring notes in crisp condition as cashiers are wary of even the slightest blemishes. Check any US$ notes you are given in change, for the same reason. If you are given any damaged notes, nobody will accept it.

Yangon has seen an explosion of restaurants in the last ten years and a wide selection of international cuisines is available: Italian, Japanese, Thai and Korean. Local cuisine reflects the multi-ethnic nature of the city and the country. Along with Bamar food, there are a large number of Indian and Chinese restaurants as well as a few places specializing in ethnic Shan food. Fast food restaurants (usually with table service) serving burgers and pizza, and a few cafes complete the scene.
The cost of food ranges considerably. Restaurants and cafes in hotels and the airport charge prices that are normal in Western countries, yet at a streetside stall a whole meal costs 500-2,000 kyat.
Biryani, a rice and meat dish with roots in the Mughal Empire, is a speciality and there are many biryani restaurants (dan-PAO-sain in Burmese) in the city centre, especially along Anawratha Rd. The three main competing restaurant chains (all halal, but vegetarian biryani is usually available) are Yuzana, KSS (Kyet Shar Soon), and Nilar.

Budget

Street Food: Anawratha Rd and Mahabandoola Rd are dotted with food stalls, but Yangon street ambiance is not conducive to al fresco eating. Betel-nut spitting pedestrians do not add to the ambience either. Myanmar street food is mostly deep fried, and often served in a puddle of oil. Dishes are washed at the roadside "dunk" style, without soap and without running water. The green tea is free but before drinking from the cups pour some tea, swill it, empty it on the street and then pour yourself the cup of tea. Alternatively, use the provided tissue at the table as the locals do. There are many buffet-style street stalls where you point at the food to order.
Street vendors sell samosas, onion balls, and other Indian snacks around Anawratha St between Sule Paya Rd and Shwe Bontha St in central Yangon for under 200 kyat. Many restaurants and food stalls close as early as 20:00 or 21:00. It is best go around 19:00.

• 999 Shan Noodle Shop

  address: 130 34th St
  Tiny snack joint with very good noodle dishes. The staff will play harmless entertaining tricks on your table such as flipping the pepper bottle if you look friendly.

• Aung Mingalar Shan Noodle Shop

  phone: +95 1 385 185
  address: Corner or Nawaday Street, Bo Yar Nyunt Road
  A lively restaurant specializing in Shan cuisine. The price is hard to beat and the waitresses are friendly.

• Family Thai & Chinese Restaurant

• Feel

  address: 124 Pyihtaungsu Ave
  A wide variety of Burmese curry dishes displayed in the back. Salads and fries.

• Golden City ChettiOffers Indian food at very reasonable prices and free top-ups on the veg thali.

• Kyet Shar Soon BirianiEstablished in 1947, offers a dish of halal Burmese-accented biryani.

• Hla Myanmar

  address: 27 5th St
  This is just a simple restaurant, but a good one for those on a budget. They specialise in Bamar (Burmese) curries, so this is a good opportunity to eat like the locals. You can just point at the curry you want and take a seat on one of the chairs. It is difficult to find, so ask the locals for directions. It is well-known among locals, because the famous actor Shwe Ba used to have his house in the area, and the restaurant is sometimes named after him.

• New DelhiBetter and cheaper than Golden City. Small Indian place, well known to the locals and tourists. Great taste and value.

• Nilar Biryani

  phone: +95 1253131
  address: 216 Anawratha Rd
  A venerable, old Biryani restaurant serving chicken, mutton and vegetable biryani. Fast, delicious and cheap.

• Seven One One Restaurant

  address: Anawratha Rd
  A clean, well-lit street side restaurant very close to Motherland Inn 2. Serves Indianised Burmese cooking which is delicious. Any dish with their "hot & sour" sauce is excellent.

• Shwe Pu Zun

  phone: +95 1 222305 or +95 1 211709
  address: 246-248 Anawratha Rd
  Ice cream and dessert shop known for its faluda a dessert of rose syrup, sweet basil, string of jelly, pure milk, ice-cream and warm custard.

• Soe Pyi Swar

  phone: +95 1385872
  address: 136 Latha St
  Vegetarian restaurant. Run by a delightful old couple and serving both vegetable and mock meat dishes. A few doors north on the same block is another veggie restaurant marked only by Chinese characters.

• YKKO

  address: 286, Seikkanthar St
  A well-established restaurant that is known for its kyae-oh, a Chinese type of noodle soup. With white noodles, minced pork, pig body parts such as pork brains, fresh water cress, it is then mixed with spicy red sauce in the bowl and eaten with a porcelain spoon.

• Barbecue food stalls

  address: 19th street, China Town
  This road becomes busy between 18:00-19:00 when plenty of food stalls open. Choose your fish, meat or veggies to be barbecued on the spot.

Mid-range

• 50th Street

  address: 50th St
  The only stand-alone Western-style cafe, restaurant and bar in Yangon. Amazing architecture and ambiance. Free Wi-Fi, multiple sport TVs, pool table, and dart board.

• Cafe Aroma

  address: Sule Pagoda Rd
  Decent coffee by Burmese standards, excellent shakes and fries.
• Kaisu kitchen, (on Mahabandula Road, between 11th Street and Hledan Street, diagonally across from Lotteria) serving western style fried chicken, burgers and Singapore style food- 2500Kyat. better than Lotteria, cheaper than KFC, has Wifi.

• Karaweik Buffet Restaurant

  phone: +95 1 290546
  address: Kan Pat St
  A buffet restaurant inside the Karaweik, offers a wide selection of Asian dishes, and a 1-hr cultural show from 19:30 to 20:30. Costs 15,000 kyat/person.

• Fuji Coffee House

  address: University Avenue Rd

• Sabai Sabai

  address: Dhammazedi Road
  The best Thai restaurant in town. Expect to pay about 7,000 kyat/person for drinks, soup, starter, and main. Most main dishes are around 4,000 kyat. This clean and atmospheric place is a favourite among expats and business people. Closed between lunch and dinner time (15:00-17:00). Closes at 21:00. Most taxi drivers know of the place. It's in an area with plenty of other mid-range restaurants.

Splurge

• Monsoon

  address: 85-87 Thien Byu Rd
  Burmese, Lao, and Thai cuisine. Restaurant and bar. Great ambiance and comfortable air conditioned surroundings with free Wi-Fi.

• L'Opera

  phone: +95 1 665516
  address: C62, D, U Tun Nyein St
  A fine Italian restaurant in Yangon.

• Le Planteur Restaurant and Bar

  phone: +95 1 541997
  address: 22 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd
  One of the best restaurants of Myanmar. It specialises in fine French cuisine with an Asian touch. The location of the restaurant (a former Australian Embassy) is spectacular and the service is impeccable.

• Signature Garden RestaurantA fine dining restaurant.

• Strand Hotel

  address: 92 Strand Rd
  Yangon's luxury colonial hotel, founded by the legendary Sarkies brothers in 1901, who also founded Penang's Eastern and Oriental Hotel and Singapore's Raffles Hotel. An interesting experience is to have an elegant high tea. Served in the restaurant of one of the classic examples of the colonial hotel in SE Asia. One can choose from either Burmese or English afternoon tea. The English variety includes delicate sandwiches, scones, tiny cakes, and tarts, while the Burmese afternoon tea has small spring rolls and samosas, and traditional Burmese sweets.

Nightlife in Yangon is split between local bars or "beer stations" as they are called which close early (around 21:00-midnight), but offer drinks at bargain prices (about 800 kyat for a pint glass of Myanmar Beer, local whiskies cost 2,000 kyat a glass). Expect to get a lot of attention when going to the local bars, since theses places are not frequented by foreigners. Drinking is not culturally acceptable for women in Burma, so don't expect to pick up any girls except in nightclubs and Western-style venues, local bars are places where men meet to talk and chew betel nut (very popular in Myanmar).
In stark contrast to local bars are the trendy cocktail bars and nightclubs that are springing up in the more modern areas of town, this is where you will find the expatiates and wealthy Westernized locals. Drinks are expensive and the DJs are unreliable- but expect a more or less Western experience, girls drink, most venues are LGBT friendly and all "the people" are there.

Bars

• Asia (A5IA), nicely decorated, across from ko san
• ko san double happiness bar, cheap, friendly and on 19th street. you will be safe from prostitutes, beggars and the usual hassles of 19th street.
• Penthouse bar, probably the trendiest bars in the city, generally reserved for rich expats and even richer locals. Has a gay night.
• Port autonomy, very trendy and in a new location- but expensive by Yangon standards

• 7 Joint BarOne of the first bars in the city and still popular, but many prostitutes will bother foreign men.

Nightclubs

Nightclubs in Yangon are not world famous, the music is often bad and most up-market discos and some nightclubs are frequented by Burmese prostitutes who are eager to talk with foreigners.

• The Music Club (at the Park Royal Hotel (admission, US$6, hotel guests, free); Paddy O'Malley's (Sedona Hotel, admission, US$ 5, including one drink).
• Fuse nightclub
• Pioneer nightclub, mostly rich local kids but has reliable DJs, always popular. Go with four people and buy a 80k package that includes a liter of vodka. Security is tight.
• Level 2 nightclub, probably has the best DJs in the city, frequent events. Attached to the trendy Alchemy Bar.
• Pyrite, has a gay night (under repair as of 7 July 2019 but will re-open soon)
• BME1 and BME2 in the north of the city
• Safehouse

Accommodation in Yangon is comparatively much more expensive than the likes of Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City or Bali.
Rooms are abundant except at the height of the tourist season (Dec-Jan), and then only in the popular backpacker hotels. Reservations are almost never necessary. Tourists can still pay in US$ (bring only newer US$ banknotes in good condition), but the kyat is more commonly used now. Credit cards are increasingly accepted at hotels.
Budget hotels are mostly away from city centre. The upside is that the hotels are quieter, the city centre can be quite noisy, and you get a little more room for your money. You'll need a taxi to get to the main sight, the Shwedagon Pagoda anyway. The downside is that most restaurants are in the city centre, a long walk or taxi ride away and choices outside the centre are limited, usually with the only choice being a restaurant attached to the hotel with indifferent cuisine and which may be closed if business is slow. Pazundaung and Botataung Townships seem to have the highest concentration of budget hotels. Some rooms, the cheaper ones, in many budget hotels have no windows. There are a few budget central hotels but, except for a couple, are quite shabby.
Mid-priced hotels are scattered about the city, with one set concentrated in the few blocks around Sule Pagoda and a second set just north of the Shwedagon Pagoda. Luxury hotels are concentrated around Kandawgyi Lake or city centre.
Rates for hotels are usually quoted as single/double. The room is usually the same but you pay a little extra, about US$5-10, if two people share the room. Breakfast is almost always included and the quality and variety increases with the cost of the hotel. In a budget hotel, expect a banana, an egg, some bread and coffee made from "coffee mix" (a pre-packaged mix of coffee powder, milk powder and lots of sugar).
An important factor in choosing a hotel is electricity. Electricity supply is subject to frequent breaks anywhere in the city. Mid-priced hotels usually have their own generators while budget hotels either do not or have a limited supply: lights will work till 23:00, fans may or may not work, air conditioning never does even if fitted in the room unless state-supplied electricity is available. Ask when you book what the electricity situation is and, if there is no generator, what you can expect on the days that you are there.

Budget

You can get a dorm bed with free breakfast in Yangon from US$4 a night (April 2019).

• Aung Si Guesthouse

  phone: +95 1 299874
  address: 100 Bogyoke Aung San Rd
  Clean rooms with air-con, free Wi-Fi, hot water and electricity available 24 hr. Helpful staff can arrange onward transport and hotel bookings. Free airport pickup is available with bookings of 2 nights or more (arrange by phone or e-mail in advance.)

• Beautyland Hotel II

  phone: +95 1 240054, +95 1 240227
  address: 188-192 33rd St
  Friendly and helpful staff in a central location. They have a range of rooms: non-air-con, air-con with TV, air-con with TV & window. Breakfast included.

• Cherry Guest House

  address: 278 Ma Har Bando La Garden St

• Garden Guest House

  phone: +95 1 253779
  address: 441-445 Mahabandoola St
  Small rooms in dingy surroundings, but with a great location and a great price. Worth it if your budget is tight and you're not fussy about decor. Breakfast is included but is very basic: four slices of bread, no toast, butter and jam, tea or coffee.

• Hninn Si Budget Inn

  address: 213/215 Bota Taung Pagoda Rd
• Hostel9, on 9th Street. A bit shabby and accepts local guests, 4$ dorm

• Hotel Everest

  address: Bogyoke Aung San St, 51st & 52nd St
  The place is not beautiful, but the staff are very friendly. Acceptable for a cheap stay providing you are not a diva and can handle some shabby walls.

• May Fair Inn

  phone: +95 1 253454
  address: No 57 38th St
  Good central location. Dated rooms but clean bathrooms. The owner is a bit wacky but her daughter is full of useful information. No breakfast.

• Motherland Inn 2

  phone: +95 1 291343
  address: 433 Lower Pazundaung Rd, Pazundaung Township
  Prices have gone up significantly. Expensive for a guesthouse but still a popular backpacker's place with private and shared baths, and on-site restaurant. They offer free pickup and drop-off from the airport with an early morning breakfast. A long walk or short taxi journey from the city centre. Otherwise the rooms start from US$27 single (fan, shared bath). Seems past its prime, and the low ceiling rooms are sometimes without windows. Internet is 1,000 kyat/h. A cheaper option is the Internet cafe opposite.

• Ocean Pearl Inn

  phone: +95 1 297007
  address: 215 Byotataung Pagoda Rd, Pazundaung Township
  All rooms have baths, air conditioning, and hot water. 15 minute walk to the city centre.

• Sunflower Hotel

  phone: +95 1 240014
  address: 259/263 Anawratha Rd
  Set on the busy intersection of Anawratha Rd and Shwe Bontha St, a few minutes walk from Sule Pagoda and the railway station, the hotel has a great location, but can be noisy. Cheaper rooms have no windows and a damp mustiness about them, and others are large and roomy with air conditioning and satellite TV. Tasty breakfast included, but some of the reception staff can be surly.

• The Lodge Yangon hostel

  address: 114 Shwe Taunton Tan Street
  Commercial style hostel, free breakfast, free WiFi, good air conditioning and small rooftop bar.

• Three Seasons Hotel

  phone: +95 1 293304
  address: 83-85 52nd St, Botataung Township
  Rooms with shared and private bath. Friendly Indian owners and a good place to stay if you plan on spending a few days in Yangon and need a place to call home. Closer to the centre than Motherland Inn 2, but still a bit of a long walk.

• White House Hotel

  phone: +95 1 240780, +95 1 240781
  address: 69/71 Konzaydan St, Pabedan Township
  An 8-storey walk-up backpacker's hotel. The place has a lot of character. Run by a very friendly and helpful family. Penthouse dining area offers amazing views of the city. Reception area finished in a mosaic of different marbles all over, floor, walls, and ceilings. You feel like you're somewhere in Spain in some sort of Gaudi-inspired cave-like room. 24 hour electricity. Some rooms have windows, some not, some have private bath, some shared bath. Provides a great city map with local bus numbers and routes. Most of all, has a good breakfast buffet included in all room rates (the fresh fruit juice of the day is a good start for breakfast) Contains marmalade selection, fruit dessert selection, veggie meal selection, plus a good home made banana or apple pie, watermelon juice with lots of pulp, maybe fried rice now, noodles tomorrow, and some local fare like coconut soup and potato fritters. It compensates for the lack of windows, TV, Internet, air-con and private bath. Free Wi-Fi.

• Sleep In Hostel

  phone: +95 1-226827
  address: 34 9th Street
  10 bed dorm. with free breakfast

• 4 Rivers Youth Hostel

  phone: +95 9799887215 , +95 9799887216
  address: 79, 12th Street, Lanmadaw Township
  New hostel with mixed dorms and female dorm. Clean Bathrooms, hot shower, free lockers and baggage storage, air-condition, free wifi, spring matrasses, breakfast included (all you can eat toast and jam). There's a cozy hang-out area with TV and computer. It's a relaxing atmosphere and meeting with other visitors is easy. The woman at the reception is very friendly, and an endless source of information.

• Pickled Tea Hostel

  address: 11 Myaynigone Zay Street
  Beds clean and comfortable with reading light and electrical socket, towel and lockable cupboard provided, delicious traditional breakfast, kind and attentive staff, nestled in a bustling area.

• 20th Street Hostel

  address: 23 20th Street
  Free breakfast. Free Wi-Fi.

Mid-range

• Alfa Hotel

  address: 41 Nawaday St
  Building is dated, but the staff are helpful and the breakfast is adequate. Wi-Fi reasonably fast. A pleasant bubble tea shop and other small shops are just east on Nawaday St.

• Central Hotel

  phone: +95 1 241 001
  address: 335-357 Bogyoke Aung San Rd
  This well-located hotel provides near-luxury facilities at mid-range prices. Rooms are clean and big (don't expect a view) with satellite TV and air conditioning. The rooms are spacious, but a little old. The hotel has room service and a popular coffee shop and Chinese restaurant. 24 hour electricity. This hotel is owned by the government (Yangon City) and an army colonel.

• City Star Hotel

  phone: +95 370920
  address: 169/171 Mahabandoola Garden St
  Clean, well kept, and comfortable rooms with TV, minibar, free coffee. 24 hour electricity.

• Classique Inn

  phone: +95 1 525557
  address: 53(B) Shwe Taung Kyar St (Golden Valley Rd), Bahan Township
  A small boutique hotel with well-furnished rooms in the quiet area north of the Shwedagon Pagoda. In the embassy district (about 2 km from Shwe Dagon Pagoda) just a few doors down from Bahrain embassy. It is a cute, small, quiet hotel made with teak and decorated with traditional Burmese lacquer ware. Only a couple of minutes away lies Bogalay Mohenga shop which sells great mohinga (perfect for breakfast).

• Clover Hotel

  phone: +95 9 73177781, +95 9 73177782, +95 9 73177783, +95 9 73177784
  address: 7A, Wingabar Rd, Bahan Township
  With over 40 rooms, the hotel is equipped with basic amenities like hot water, 24 hr electricity and air conditioning. Wifi is reasonably fast. It is free in reception or US$8 for a 1 GB card which works in the rooms. The cafe on the rooftop has a great view of the Shwedagon Pagoda.

• East Hotel

  phone: +95 9 73135311, +95 9 73135299
  address: 234-240 (1) Quarter Sule Pagoda Rd, Kyauktada Township
  Rooms are clean, air conditioned, with hot and cold shower. Bath has no door, only a shower curtain and a wall to block off the toilet area. Free Wi-Fi and 24 hr electricity. The staff are friendly and speak English.

• May Shan Hotel

  phone: +95 1 252986
  address: 115-117 Sule Pagoda Rd
  Clean, well-kept, but small rooms right outside the Sule Pagoda. Has its own generator, and the staff are friendly. All rooms have air-con, satellite TV, bath attached with hot and cold shower. A bit run-down.

• New Aye Yar Hotel

  phone: +95 1 256938
  address: 170-175 Bo Aung Kyaw St, Botataung Township
  Five min walk from Sule Pagoda and around the corner from the Strand, this well-located hotel caters to business travellers. A small, but good restaurant is on the premises, the hotel is centrally air conditioned, and all rooms have satellite TV. (good, but inexperienced service is second to none)

• Panda Hotel

  phone: +95 1 212850, +95 1 229360
  address: 205 Min Ye Kyaw Swa Rd, Lanmadaw Township
  Comfortable, if faceless, modern business hotel located at the edge of the city centre. You will need a taxi to get around (easily available in front of the hotel). Wi-Fi available in the lobby. Offers great views of the city, especially from the upper floors. All rooms have satellite TV, air conditioning and attached baths. Is very popular.

• Thamada Hotel

  phone: +95 1 243639
  address: 5 Alan Pya Phaya (Signal Pagoda) Rd
  Clean and central, but basic. The first international hotel in Yangon, and good value for money.

• Winner Inn

  phone: +95 1 535205
  address: 42 Than Lwin Rd, Bahan Township
  Close to the Shwedagon Pagoda, a quiet hotel favoured by German tourists. All rooms with attached bath, air-conditioning and satellite TV. Restaurant on the premises but, if it is not open, it is a bit of a walk to the nearest restaurants near the Savoy. Free Wi-Fi.

Splurge

• The Strand

  address: 92 Strand Rd
  A deluxe colonial hotel built by the Sarkies Brothers in 1901. Meticulously restored, the Strand has huge airy rooms with vintage fittings, teak flooring, and furniture, a cafe and bar.

• The Governor's Residence

  phone: +95 1 229860
  address: 35 Taw Win Rd, Dagon Township
  A renovated teak mansion, formerly a guesthouse for Kachin State officials, is in one of Yangon's most exclusive neighbourhoods. The hotel has 48 rooms and pleasant gardens. Swimming pool and several excellent restaurants on the premises. Close to Shwedagon Pagoda, and one can easily walk to city centre.

• Inya Lake Hotel

  address: 37, Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd
  On the shore of Inya Lake, a 30-minute drive from the city centre, depending on traffic. Given as a gift to Myanmar by Nikita Khruschev in 1958 this hotel has plenty of Soviet-inspired style. Known locally for their Sunday brunches and nice pool. Very quiet, next to SOS Clinic.

• Parkroyal Yangon

  phone: +95 1 250 388
  address: 33 Alan Pha Phaya Road, Dagon Township, Yangon
  A good quality hotel with 272 rooms. La Brasserie Restaurant, Phoenix Court Chinese Restaurant, Shiki-Tei Japanese Restaurant, and the Lobby Bar. The well-known disco Music Club is in the basement.

• Kangyavi Palace

  phone: +95 1 249 255
  address: Kan Yeik Tha Road

• Savoy Hotel

  phone: +95 1 526289, +95 1 526298, +95 1 526305
  address: 129 Dhammazedi Rd
  Housed in an old colonial building with period furniture and decorations, the Savoy is one of the most charming hotels in Yangon. A short walk to the Shwedagon Pagoda, a swimming pool and an excellent restaurant. Lower than quoted rates are often available on the Internet.

• Sedona Hotel

  address: 1 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd
  Burmese architecture. 366 rooms.

• Summit Parkview Hotel

  phone: +95 1 211888, +95 1 211966
  address: 350 Ahlone Rd
  Just west of Shwedagon Pagoda and with excellent views of that pagoda. Good restaurant and bar.

• Traders Hotel

  address: 223 Sule Pagoda Rd
  The original upscale business hotel in Yangon. Swimming pool, all services and an excellent restaurant. The location is hard to beat.

• Yuzana Garden Hotel

  phone: +95 1 248944
  address: 44, Signal Pagoda Rd, Mingalartaungnyunt Township
  37 rooms in a renovated colonial building.

• Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon

  phone: +95 1 544 500
  address: 40 Natmauk Road, Tamwe Township
  A 10-storey hotel with 310 rooms, pool and free wifi. Has six restaurants and bars, a beach-styled swimming pool, fitness centre, spa and event venues

• Institut Français de Birmanie

  address: 340 Pyay Road
  Has events again!

• National Library

  address: Lay Daungkan Rd

Internet cafes

Internet cafes have proliferated in recent years and Yangon has quite a few that provide access at a reasonable speed for a reasonable price. The government no longer blocks any web sites, but connections are not 100% reliable. Many hotels provide Internet services, but these tend to be more expensive than the public cafes. The cheapest rate is around 400 kyat per hour. There are plenty of places so shop around and save some cash.

• Cyber Cafe IIOne of the best Internet providers in Burma. Reasonably fast access.

• Tokyo Donuts

  address: Anawratha Rd
  A donut shop with a dozen terminals inside. Accessible USB ports and seems popular with locals. Free Wi-Fi.

Post Office

• GPO

  address: Strand Rd

Photography & Video

• Thein Win / Modern Camera shop

  phone: +95 9-250 650 364
  address: 179, 33rd St, middle block
  Great place to repair all sorts of cameras. New and second-hand accessories and cameras for both analog and digital. The owner is an experienced and passionate photographer, who speaks good English. Can also recommend places for other photography-related needs.

Despite widespread poverty, Yangon is one of the safest big cities in the world. Most people, including single females, will not have any problems roaming the streets alone at night, and carrying large amounts of cash rarely poses a problem. Crimes against tourists are taken very seriously by the military government and punishment is often disproportionately severe. This, in addition to the strong Buddhist culture in the population, means that Yangon's crime rate is lower than the likes of Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok. Violent crime is especially rare. However, little crime does not mean no crime, and there have been isolated incidents involving tourists, so it is best to take normal big city precautions like avoiding lonely areas at night and always being aware of your valuables. As with everywhere else in the world, there is no substitute for common sense.
Prostitution and drug trafficking are illegal, though there are plenty of prostitutes in Yangon, often in bars owned by senior army officers. Drug trafficking is punishable by death.

Scams

A increasingly common scam involved an overly friendly local approaching a tourist (often near Sule Pagoda/ the park next to it, or outside Shwe Dagon pagoda) and offering to take them around the city. The tourist is then taken to an isolated area (often across the river) where a group of men appear and demand huge amounts of money and take the tourist to an ATM where they are forced to make a withdrawal.
It can be difficult to separate these men from the more common tour guide who will introduce himself and try to overcharge you for short tours.
Taxi drivers at the airport and au minglar bus station are known to badly overcharge people who have just arrived and may lie about the exchange rate of burmese kyat. Using grab taxi is safer and often cheaper for tourists.
The most common crime in Yangon is being short-changed by a money changer, so count your kyat carefully when you exchange money. Opt to exchange at the Bogyoke Market, where the rates may be slightly worse, but the jewellery shop owners won't rip you off. Do not fall for the "bad serial number" excuse, it's another attempt to con you (however, US dollars with "CB" serial numbers may be fakes). Be especially careful with the money changer around Sule Paya. They count the money in front of you, but will trick you while doing that (they have fast hands.) People are strongly advised not to change money there.
There are a multitude of fake monks along the street near Sule-Shangri La Hotel (formally Traders) and Bogyoke Market. Authentic monks do not hang around tourist attractions soliciting donations.

• Yangon can be extremely hot with intense sun. Shield yourself from the sun and heat by using an umbrella, drinking plenty of water, and staying inside during the noon hours.
• Yangon's tap water is not potable. Always buy bottled water or refill bottles at purified water jars. Temples supply free purified water (large steel tanks), and most shop keepers are happy to let you top up at their water jugs.
• Mosquitoes carry dengue and malaria. Insist on using a mosquito net at night if it is available. Make sure there are no holes or gaps left in the net. Your second line of defense is mosquito coils and mosquito repellent.
• Street food is almost universally unsafe and can be a source of everything from diarrhoea to typhoid and parasites. Stick to indoor restaurants and tea shops with non-dirt floors.
• Street dogs are occasionally rabid: Pass them with caution, and be aware that can form aggressive packs.
• There are open sewers all over Yangon. Be extremely wary during rainy season when many flood. You could accidentally find yourself standing chest deep in a sewer. The typical layout is shop-sewer ditch-pavement-street-pavement-sewer ditch-shop. Some sections of sewer are covered for walking ease, others are not. During rainy season, be cautious of any cuts you may have on your feet as the flooded water in the streets is contaminated and can lead to infections.
• Drivers are reckless. If your taxi driver is behaving recklessly tell them to slow down. Be insistent; traffic deaths are extremely common.
• Many drugs in pharmacies are fake. Golden Bell Pharmacy listed below is reputable.

Healthcare

Tuberculosis and AIDS (known as "A-I-D Five" among locals) afflict a disproportionately high percentage of the people. However, HIV infection is not at the epidemic level (infection rates are much less than 1%). There is a risk of dengue fever. Malaria is a risk in rural areas.
Medical care is limited, but is most expedient at private medical clinics. Most guest houses and hotels will be able to provide you with the address of a private doctor with experience in treating foreigners. Be sure to take the proper vaccinations before you leave for your trip. Carry a small first-aid kit with you containing at least painkillers, band-aid, ORS and a loperamide-like medicine. Anti-malarial pills and DEET are recommended. For more serious medical issues, you will probably need to travel to Bangkok or Singapore for treatment.

• SOS Clinic

  address: Inya Lake Hotel complex
  Western trained doctors can provide you urgent care. Faster than going to Bangkok.

• Pun Hlaing Clinic

  address: 4th Floor, 380, Bogyoke Aung San Rd, FMI Centre, Pabedan, Yangon
  Good quality local doctors available in a range of specialities. Many of them studied or practiced in the West.

• Golden Bell Pharmacy

  address: NO.006 Yuzana Tower, Shwe Gone Dine
  The only Pharmacy SOS Clinic trusts to sell genuine medicine.

• Yangon General Hospital

  phone: +95 1256112
  address: Bogyoke Aung San Rd
  Government hospitals are said to be unreliable and sometimes require bribes. Do not seek medical care here unless it is an emergency. It is said to be unsanitary and inefficient. However, clearly standards differ between Myanmar and Western Countries.

Embassies

In the event of an emergency, always take the precaution of registering at your embassy. Many details can also be found here: https://www.embassypages.com/myanmar

• Australia

  address: 88, Strand Rd
• Bangladesh, 11B Thanlwin Rd.
• Cambodia, 25 New University Ave Rd.
• Canada, The Australian Embassy provides assistance.
• China, 1, Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Rd, is a clearly visible building with red paint.
• France, 1, 102 Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Rd, is near the outskirts of the city.

• Germany

  address: 32, Natmauk Rd

• India

  address: 545-547 Merchant St
• Indonesia, 100 Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Rd.

• Israel

  address: 15 Kabaung Rd
• Italy, 3 Inya Myaing Rd.

• Japan

  address: 100, Natmauk Rd
• Korea, 97 University Ave Rd.
• Laos, A1 Diplomatic Quarters, Taw Win St.
• Malaysia, 82 Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Rd.
• Nepal, 16 Natmauk Rd.
• Netherlands, The German Embassy provides assistance.
• New Zealand, The UK Embassy provides assistance.
• Pakistan, 4A Pyay Rd.
• Philippines, 50 Sayasan St.
• Russia, 38 Sagawa Road

• Singapore

  address: 238 Dharma Zedi St
• Sri Lanka, 34 Taw Win St.
• Sweden, The UK Embassy provides assistance.
• Switzerland, The German Embassy provides assistance.
• Thailand, 94 Pyay St.

• United Kingdom

  address: 80, Strand Rd

• United States

  address: 110 University Avenue Rd
• Vietnam, 72 Thanlwin Rd.

• Yangon International Airport - Taxi to airport is around 8,000 kyat including baggage. Your hotel manager may well drive you to the airport. There is a beautiful 3-storey mural, a nice composition of Burmese countryside and lifestyle in the style of idyllic romanticism worth taking souvenir photo of as you go to immigration on the second floor departure area.
• Bago (Pegu) - an important city with pagodas and monasteries 60 km north of Yangon. An easy day trip.
• Mandalay - overnight buses, and expensive government trains, leave for Mandalay daily. Bus tickets can be booked at the number of travel agents just north of Yangon railway station.
• Mawlamyine - A pleasant seaside city with a few daytrip possibilities. 9 hr express train runs there each morning about 06:15 (and an 11 hr slow train at 07:00). Ordinary tickets (with no seat reservations) cost foreigners US$5, while upper class tickets are US$14. You get your own seat and it's slightly less crowded, but there isn't much difference between classes.
• Pathein (Bassein) - famous for its paper umbrellas and stunning religious architecture, and an overnight boat away (or 4 hours by rented car, more by bus) to the west. From Pathein it's only a few hours by bus or pick-up truck on to the beaches of Chaungtha and Ngwe Saung.
• Taukkyan - about an hour's drive (35 km) of central Yangon, and site of the Taukkyan War Cemetery.
• Thanlyin - once an important city on the Irrawaddy Delta, and gateway to Kyauktan (Syriam), a small island in the Yangon River, which is the site of the 4th century Ye Le Paya.
• Twante - the most accessible delta town to Yangon, makes for a nice half- or full-day trip.

Buses

• Bagan - 18,000 kyat 13 hr
• Bago - 7,000 kyat, 2 hr every hour from 07:00
• Mandalay - standard 10,500 kyat, VIP 5,000 kyat 9 hr
• Mawlamyine - 10,000 kyat, VIP 7 hr, 21:00 & 08:30