Geneva

In 1536, a young man named John Calvin, fleeing the persecution of Protestants in France, spent a night in Geneva. As it turned out, he was to do a lot more there than sleeping. After being expelled from Geneva for nearly three years, Calvin returned triumphantly in 1541 to help elevate the city to the rank of a Protestant Rome. The intellectual influence of the Reformation extended to all realms of Genevan life: politics, economy, and administration.
Geneva was an independent republic from at least the 16th century until it became a Swiss Canton on 31 Dec 1813. This is a point of some pride to the Genevois, who still refer to their Canton as the République et Canton de Genève. A favorite festival is the yearly celebration of the Escalade, which commemorates a failed attempt in 1602 by the forces of the Dukes of Savoy to invade the city by climbing and otherwise breaching the city walls. Having turned aside this invasion attempt at the cost of only 16 lives, Geneva had secured its liberty, since the House of Savoy was never again strong enough on this side of the Alps to attempt such an invasion.
Geneva is still a very proud city. Some find it downright stuffy, although there is quite a bit more life to be found if you look under the surface, especially if you speak some French.
Geneva is officially a French-speaking city, and the vast majority of the population speak French (81% in 2014). All advertisements, information, and signs are in French. With the large international presence and a strong diaspora, English and Portuguese (both about 10%) take a close second. Spanish (7%), Italian (6%), and German (5%) speakers abound. You may also occasionally hear Serbian/Croatian, Albanian and Turkish as well as Arabic surprisingly often.

Geneva is the transportation hub for the French-speaking Switzerland and the western access point to the Swiss Alps.

By plane

• Geneva airportIt is served by almost all European carriers and has good connections from most major Northern African and Middle Eastern airports. From North America there are a couple of daily direct flights from New York, Washington D.C. and Montreal and in addition to that Air China has four weekly non-stop flights from Beijing. Geneva is a hub for the low-cost carrier EasyJet serving a number of destinations in Europe including Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Edinburgh, London, Madrid, Manchester and Paris.

The airport has a UBS bank with ATMs and exchange machines in the arrival area. There is an American Express office just beyond passport control in the departure lounge. There are several cafés and duty free shopping as well, open 08:00-23:00.
To get into town from the airport, taxis cost approximately Fr. 30. The fastest way is by train which is the same price/tickets as with the buses. The number 10 bus leaves every 15 minutes from 06:00 to 23:00. Get off at the 22-Cantons stop for train station. Bus 5 also goes to the central railway station but along a different route passing close by the UN building and stopping at rue de Lausanne. Both buses then continue to the southern side of the city. All trains leaving Geneva airport train station stop at the main train/bus station. Train/bus tickets are around Fr. 3.50 (valid for one hour) and can be purchased at machines at the bus stop and in the train station. A free transport ticket to the city of Geneva can be obtained from the Geneva Transport (TPG) machine in the baggage claim area. This ticket is valid for 80 minutes anywhere in Geneva and suburbs, for trains, buses and yellow boats (with this ticket you can go as far as CERN or Anières or Veyrier). There is a change machine next to the UBS ATM. The best alternative is to take the free public transport ticket, hop on any train to Geneva (5 minutes) and either take a taxi from there or continue on the public transport system.

By train

The Swiss Federal Railway, abbreviated CFF in French, serves Geneva's main railway station (simply called Genève, but traditionally also called Gare de Genève-Cornavin, or simply Cornavin) with direct trains to and from Neuchâtel, Biel/Bienne, Luzern, Winterthur, St. Gallen every hour, and Berne and Zürich every half-hour. Regional trains heading to Nyon, Morges and many other villages along the northern shore of Lake Geneva, and inter-regional trains heading to Lausanne leave every 15 minutes, and further to Vevey, Montreux, Martigny, Sion, and further to the back of the mountainous Valais in Visp and Brig at least every half-hour. Normally they depart from Genève-Aéroport.
The Gare des Eaux-Vives is another public transport station and it is situated on the southeastern side of the lake on the other side of the river Rhône. It has French bus services with the SNCF to and from Evian, Chamonix and Annecy. It's being renovated, since a new rail line has been built to link Cornavin to this train station.
International trains leaving from Genève include the French (SNCF) and Swiss National Railways (SBB CFF FFS) coorporating high-speed TGV-Lyria service. There is a direct service from Geneva to Paris (570 km) with a journey time of three hours seven times per day, as well as a direct service to Lyon (2 hr), Avignon (3 hr), Marseille (3.5nhr) and Nice (6.5 hr). There is a direct connection between Milan and Geneva, traversing the Alps through the Simplon massif four times a day. Once a day this EuroCity (EC) service directly connects Geneva with Venice via Milan.
For more information:

• Swiss Federal Railway (SBB CFF FFS) website, . Provides a useful on-line travel planner, which includes information about local bus and tram services, as well as rail services and can plan your journey from any address to Geneva. The mobile app can also be used to buy train tickets, an account with a valid credit card has to be set-up beforehand.

Unless otherwise announced, most trains arriving in Genève will usually have the Genève-Aéroport as their final destination (if they come from elsewhere in Switzerland), which means you do not have to use the TPG (transport publis genevois, or Geneva's Public Transport company) tram or bus to get there.
Geneva's main railway station is well designed, and a key part of Geneva's public transport network. City tram and bus routes converge at a stop located directly outside the front doors of the station, called Gare Cornavin and making transition from train to public transit extremely easy. If you're staying in a hotel, hostel or campground, do not buy more than a single ticket. Geneva provides free transit passes to any tourist staying in one of these types of accommodation. Ask the reception if you did not receive it at check-in. The station also features a basement-level shopping concourse, along with an underground passage which connects to the south side of the busy main street, permitting new arrivals to avoid crossing busy roads. The passage also connects to an open-air pedestrianized shopping street, leading down to the lake.

By car

The motorway network brings you right into Geneva, only 40km from Annecy and 80km from Chamonix with customs at Bardonnex - Saint-Julien. You need the compulsory motorway sticker (single annual Fr. 40 fee) to come through this customs office. Purchase of the motorway tax sticker (aka Vignette) at one of the customs is obligatory in order to drive on Swiss motorways.
To avoid the purchase of a vignette, you can enter Geneva through other crossing points at Thônex-Vallard or Moillesulaz, for example. If, however, you decide later to drive on the motorway, you will need to purchase a vignette — you can generally purchase the vignette at Petrol Stations, Post Offices or at Tourist Offices.

By bus

Geneva is served by a number of regular international bus routes (Bus station: ). Additionally, the TPG (Geneva Public Transport) provide regular services from the neighbouring French towns of Saint-Julien, Archamps, Thoiry, Ferney-Voltaire, Moillesulaz ().

By boat

Regular boat services are provided, mainly in paddle steamers built between 1904 and 1927, from ports all around Lake Geneva by Compagnie Générale de Navigation. All boats arrive at the Paquis port after docking briefly at Parc des Eaux Vives and the Jardin Anglais.

Districts

• Old Town (vieille ville) and St. Gervais
• Paquis
• Plainpalais
• Hopital
• Eaux-Vives

On foot

The old-town can be easily visited on foot starting anywhere around the tour boat dock on Lake Geneva, or if you come from the Cornavin station, walk down to the Bel-Air island and continue straight on uphill to the old town. Crossing the bridge (Pont du Mont Blanc), you'll get to the English Garden with the famous flower clock and a sculpted bronze water fountain. Then you can cross the street (Quai de General Guisan) and go up the hill (on Place du Port and Rue de la Fontaine) and up the long stairs passage and end up behind Saint Peter's Cathedral. After visiting the cathedral, which is Geneva's well-known landmark, you can exit the courtyard and be right in front of Geneva City Hall. From there you can easily walk down to the Bastions Park where you can find the famous Reformation Wall memorial. This park is very quiet and romantic, especially at the beginning of the fall season when the leaves start falling. See this walking route in pictures.
Geneva is fairly walkable but the fact that the name of some streets change frequently as you walk can make navigation difficult. For instance the street from Bel-Air square to Rive roundabout has five different names on a section of less than a kilometre.

By bike

Geneva is a great town to get around in by bicycle. Except for the old-town, the city is fairly flat, and though there are some streets that are dangerous to ride, there is almost always a safe, fast route to your destination. If you want to know the best routes, you should get a copy of the beautifully designed Velo-Love plan de ville, which is available at all bike shops in Geneva, or by or .
A social organization called Genèveroule lends bicycles free of charge (for four hours and then a fee of Fr. 2 per extra hour), from 30 April through 30 October. A passport or identity card must be shown and a refundable deposit of Fr. 20 is required. Six stations are located along the lake, behind the railway station, in Eaux-Vives (Terrassière) the Plaine de Plainpalais and at Carouge. While this service is quite convenient, be sure to bring ID and contact information, including hotel phone number, to speed up the paperwork.

By public transportation

Geneva, like most cities in Switzerland, is a marvel of public transportation efficiency. Transports Publics Genevois (TPG) provides frequent bus, tram, 'mouette' (boat), and suburban train service to within a block or two of most locations in the city and canton.
Tickets cost Fr. 2 for a short hop (three stops or less, or a one-way crossing of the lake). Fr. 3 for one hour with unlimited changes on tram, bus, boat, and rail within greater Geneva, Fr. 8 for a day pass valid 09:00-23:59, and Fr. 10 for an extended day pass valid from the time it is purchased until 05:00 the next morning. Holders of the SBB Demi-Tarif/Halbtax card get 20-30% off these prices. If you're staying for more than a few days, consider buying a week ticket for Fr. 38. It's sold at official TPG offices, located at Cornavin station, Rive roundabout and the suburb of Grand-Lancy (the last one is pretty off the beaten path for most visitors).
If you stay in a hotel, hostel, or on a camping site, you will get free public transport. Typically, you will receive a Unireso Geneva Transport Card at check-in. It will be authorised for use for the length of your stay and like a ticket one gets in the airport upon arrival it is valid for Geneva and suburbs including the Unireso network. You are supposed to carry your passport or identity card with you at the same time, to ensure validity. The ticket is valid on trains as far as the airport. One pass is valid for a maximum of 15 days, and it is valid also on the day you check out from your place of stay, which is handy if you have a late flight and want do some sightseeing or shopping.

By bus

Tickets, which cover trams and buses, must be bought from ticket machines (located at every stop) before boarding the transport. Some bus stops do not have a ticket machine, in that case you can indicate to the driver that you need to buy a ticket at the next stop.
You can get pretty much everywhere by bus. Some routes are rather confusing, so it's good to get a map of the network which can be picked up at the official ticket vending points, or viewed/printed out from their web page. When you are on the bus, however, bus stops are both announced and visible on a screen (on most buses).
Observe that you will need to purchase a separate ticket if you are travelling outside the canton of Geneva, i.e. to or from France or the canton of Vaud. "Ordinary" tickets and day passes are only valid inside Geneva (known as Zone 10). Bus stops in France that are served by the Genevan transport authority do not have ticket vending machines, instead you have to buy the tickets from vending machines on board the bus when traveling from France.

By tram

Geneva has a network of four tram lines; 12, 14, 15 and 18. Three of them pass through the major transportation hub at the Cornavin train station, and all of them have a station close to Place Bel-Air on the old-town side of the river. If you did not receive a TPG/Unireso card from your hotel, you will need to buy a ticket from one of the ticket machines located at every stop before boarding the transport. Tickets cover both trams and buses.

By boat

The "mouette" service is included in the TPG/Unireso card that tourists receive free of charge from their hotels. This is a nice way to get from the Pâquis station near the Quai du Mont-Blanc in the northwest to the other side of the lake, e.g. to the Eaux-Vives stop near the Jardin Anglais. Boats run every 10 minutes. See the home page of the boat operator for more information.

By car

If you want to explore the mountainous countryside or go skiing in one of the ski resorts in the Alps, getting a car is a better option. Numerous local and international car rental service providers operate from the airport. They provide customized traveling services to the needs of tourists visiting GenevaThe city centre of Geneva is famously congested and as such driving into the city is not a good idea.

By train

Suburban trains to outskirts run every half hour during the day and every hour after 20:00. The last train to the eastern terminus, (Coppet), leaves at 00:03. Though these "Regios" mostly serve commuters, at least two of their station stops, Versoix and Coppet, have several good restaurants and historic main streets. There is also another suburban rail line: the RER Genève, which goes from Cornavin to La Plaine, sometimes continuing to France (2 stops from La Plaine). As with buses and trams, tickets must be bought before boarding the train. If you are only travelling with the canton of Geneva, a bus/tram ticket is valid on the train and vice versa; travelling further afield will cost more unless you buy a regional ticket, which also includes parts of Vaud and France.

• Jet d'Eau

  address: the Rade
  One of the crowning symbols of Geneva is the monumental Jet d'Eau, a fountain of water pumped 140m into the air. The spectacular plume was once an occasional pressure release for hydro-power generation on the Rhône River, but people liked it so much that in 1891 the city created a permanent pumped fountain. It's beautifully lit at night. Best viewed from a distance — the surrounding half kilometer is soaked with water. However, the more adventurous might want to try the pathway leading right up to the Jet d'eau prepare to get enjoyably wet!

• Cathédrale St-Pierre and Calvin's auditorium

  address: Place St. Pierre
  The new Espace Saint Pierre pass includes entrance to all three sites of Cour Saint-Pierre, a worthy space of unique spiritual and cultural importance. The Cathedral and its towers, originally Catholic, both embody the high point of the Reformed tradition and explore the origins of Christianity with an extensive archaeological site and they are now complemented by the International Museum of the Reformation on the ground floor of the Maison Mallet. An underground passage, reopened when the Museum was created, connects the two buildings. The archeological tour beneath the cathedral is excellent for archeology fans it explains the origins not only of the cathedral but the reason for Geneva's location back to pre-Roman times. Those willing to climb the steps of the Cathedral's towers will be rewarded with magnificent views of Geneva and the lake. Nearby, the Auditoire, where Calvin taught, completes a complex that is both representative of the past and open to current questions. The new Espace Saint-Pierre thus aims to contribute to our understanding of today’s world – between tradition and modernity, cultural experimentation and spiritual practice. These three buildings invite the visitor to explore the city’s history. Religious denominations aside, Espace Saint Pierre represents a spirit that continues to guide the city and citizens of Geneva today. For schedules and information about free live organ performances in the cathedral, go to the website Concerts cathédrale.

• Old TownAside of the cathedral the Old town in general is worth walking around in for an hour or two. Among the highlights are the city hall with the cannons in the little square opposite to it, Rousseau's birth house and various antique shops with all sorts of interesting stuff in the windows. A word of warning to people with physical disabilities: the Old Town, is situated on a hill with quite steep streets leading up to it.

• Palais des Nations

  phone: +41 22-917 48 96
  address: 14, Avenue de la Paix
  Built to house the League of Nations, the Palais is worth visiting just to take in the magnificent Assembly Hall, in addition to the large collection of public art, the library, and the landscaped grounds. Visits are by guided tours only. For most of the year there are two or four of them per day, in the summer months they are arranged depending on the number of visitors. Enter the complex at the Appia gate, and go through passport and security check. From there you will go to one desk to get a "visitor" badge, then downstairs to purchase the actual ticket. After this you should exit the building, go to the left and slightly downhill to Building E, enter through door E39 and wait in the lobby until the tour starts. There is a quite good souvenir shop from where you can also send post cards with UN stamps, as well as a small "cinema" showing video clips of UN's work to keep you entertained while waiting. On the tour itself you must follow the guide at all times.

• Quartier des Grottes

  address: Place des Grottes
  An area with interesting shops and most importantly, a series of residential buildings called "les Schtroumpfs" (1982-1984), where the architects tried to avoid all straight lines, leading to an unconventional Gaudi-like appearance.

• Monument Brunswick

  address: Quai du Mont-Blanc
  An impressive monument, constructed in 1873 as a Mausoleum for the Duke of Brunswick, as a replica of the tomb of the Scaligeri family in Verona (14th century). Also worth visiting for the 5-star hotels and the cars in front of them.

• Île Rousseau

  address: Pont des Bergues
  Small island where the lake ends and river Rhône begins named after the famous philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau - of course there's a statue of him there too.

• L'IleWorth visiting for the old Tour de L'Ile, the remains of a fortified castle erected in the 13th century.

• Place NeuveSee the impressive Grand Theatre (1879, renovated after a fire in 1951), the Conservatoire de musique, and the Musée Rath. Also visit the Parc des Bastions, which includes a large wall ("Mur des Réformateurs") showing some of the famous people of the Reformation movement.

• Eaux-VivesWhile many of Geneva's buildings are similar in style to what you would find in French cities, the Mairie of Eaux-Vives is a great example of the typical Swiss architecture you would find in cities like Zürich. If you're interested in modern architecture, also visit Rue Saint-Laurent for "La Clarté", an avant-garde building designed by Le Corbusier in 1931/32 — one of 17 Le Corbusier buildings to be listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Another interesting attraction here is the Russian Orthodox Church built 1859-1866 with its golden cupolas.

• CarougeA district of Geneva that once belonged to the Kingdom of Sardinia and hence retains a distinct Italian flavour.

• Jardin botaniqueAt the botanical garden you can see flowers, plants and trees both from the Alps and from other parts of the world. The palm house also hosts tropical vegetation. In the northern part of the park there is a zoo spread over a quite large area with birds and some Alpine mammals such as goats and deer.

Museums and galleries

• International Museum of the Reformation

  phone: +41 22 310 24 31
  address: 4, rue du Cloître
  Installed on the ground floor of the magnificent Maison Mallet (next to Saint-Pierre Cathedral), this new Museum presents the main spiritual and cultural elements of the Reformation. Unique objects, manuscripts, rare books, engravings, and paintings illustrate the close ties between Geneva and the Reformation. State-of-the-art technology welcomes a modern audience: films, a music room, and demonstrations, including many for children, invite visitors to both rediscover the past and imagine the future.

• Museum of the International Committee of the Red Cross

  phone: +41 22 748-9525
  address: 17, Avenue de la Paix
  The Museum of the I.C.R.C. is located in the basement of the headquarters and shows photos and objects related to the organization's service to humanity during countless wars and natural disasters, and presents stories of victims. However much of the permanent exhibition is not an ordinary museum, but probably supposed to be more of an "experience", one might even call it a theme park - not really appropriate for such a serious topic. You will be given an audio guide that is activated when going through different rooms and touching screens - these are malfunctioning quite frequently. There are also educative tasks/games for the visitors to play as well as postmodern works of art. Overall, the museum is largely a rather confusing experience and given the offhand expectations you probably have, this museum will probably not be the high point of your visit to Geneva.

• Musée Ariana

  phone: +41 22 418 54 50
  address: Avenue de la Paix 10
  Occupying a big chunk of what would otherwise be the UN campus, the Ariana Museum offers a huge collection (16,000 pieces) of ceramics from around Europe and the Far East.

• Musée d'Art Moderne et Contemporain

  phone: +41 22 320 61 22
  address: Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 10
  Late modern, post-modern, and contemporary works by internationally known artists, as well as a special collection of Swiss conceptual work.

• Musée d'Histoire Naturelle

  phone: +41 22 418 63 00
  address: Route de Malagnou 1
  Geneva has a nice museum which is worth a visit, especially if you have youth and children.

• Musée d'Art et d'Histoire

  phone: +41 22 418 26 00
  address: Rue Charles-Galland 2
  Extensive art and archaeological-historical collections. Painting gallery extends back to the early Renaissance, but is most extensive in Swiss-French and Impressionist works.

• Fondation Baur, Musée des Arts d’Extrême-Orient

  phone: +41 22 704 32 82
  address: 8 rue Munier-Romilly
  The largest collections of Far Eastern art open to the public in Switzerland. Temporary exhibitions are regularly organized several times a year.

• Patek Philippe Museum

  phone: +41 22 807 09 10
  address: 7 Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers
  Four floors of stunningly beautiful watches and clocks from the last centuries, both Patek Philippe and other brands. There is also a section presenting watchmaking in practice. Bags (even shopping bags) are banned in the museum so leave them in your hotel room or somewhere else!

• CERN's exhibitions

  address: 385 Route de Meyrin
  The nuclear research center CERN has two free exhibitions, both presenting the history of the complex, its equipment, scientific breakthroughs and the scientists behind them. The one behind the reception is called Microcosm and the one opposite the road in the big "Globe of Science and Innovation" bears the name Universe of Particles. There are also guided tours at the premises but they need to be booked in advance. The reception has a small souvenir shop; this is your opportunity to get yourself a CERN helmet!

• Musée d'histoire des sciences

  address: Villa Bartholoni, 128 rue de Lausanne
  Museum dedicated to scientists who've lived and worked in Geneva. You can see old equipment from telescopes to galvanometers and glass eyes.

• Maison Tavel

  address: 6 Rue du Puits-Saint-Pierre
  Three floors presenting the history of Geneva from the Middle Ages until the 19th century. There's an entrance fee to the temporary exhibitions in the basement.

• Salève cable car

  address: Veyrier, France
  Just over the French border, this high alpine ridge has a stunning view of Mt. Blanc and the Lake Geneva area and miles of walking trails. A cute little corner shop in Pas de l'Échelle Village (France) sells about 100 varieties of French cheeses and is open on Sundays. Don't forget your passport.

• Association Genevoise des Amis du Salève

  phone: +41 22 796 41 33
  Organizes free hikes around Geneva every Sunday. Start at 10:00 (sharp) at terminus (End station) of bus number 8 at Veyrier-Douane.

Genève PlageThere are many smaller places where to swim in either the rivers or the lake, but the largest one is Genève Plage (literally "Geneva Beach") at the eastern bank of the lake. It's a nice place to swim, enjoy the sun, play, barbecue, or just hang out.

Events

March

• International Geneva Motor Show

  address: in the Palexpo center next to the airport

May

• Caves OuvertesFree annual event. Sample wine at Geneva's wineries while exploring the canton's rural side.

June

• Bol d'OrYacht Race (biggest in Europe).

• Fête de la Musique

  phone: +41 22 418 65 32
  For three days in June, the whole City of Geneva is a stage. Actually, there are on the order of 40 of them. The musical offerings include children's choirs, punk rock, chamber orchestras, jam bands, avant-guard jazz, klezmer, and drum and bass DJs. The venues are as diverse as the music, with stages inside and out of l'Usine, Parc des Bastions, and even Cathédral St. Pierre. There is also a wide assortment of international food and drink for sale, which can be a bit pricey, but highly worth it. The easiest way to get information is to just head to one of the parks listed above and find one of the free newspaper-style festival guides. It includes time-tables and maps. Additionally, be sure to wander around, as the festival is full of many excellent unofficial performances, including drums, juggling, and dance.

August

• Fêtes de la BatieA 16-day arts festival (usually starts the last weekend of July and through most of August) with installations and live shows in over 20 venues across the city. Very similar in feel to the Edinburgh Fringe Festival.

December

• L'EscaladeRunning and walking competitions open to everybody.

Parks

It's worth taking at least a day to explore the green places of Geneva, of which there are quite a few, not the least because some of the more interesting parts of town are between those green places. There are a number of suggested promenades for which there are maps available at the tourist office on the Ile de la Machine.

• Parc des Bastions

  address: entrance at Place Neuve or just down rue St. Léger from Place Bourg de Four.
  This lovely tree lined park, which is home to the liberal arts campus of the University of Geneva features giant chessboards and even larger statues of Geneva's Calvinist founding fathers, and it's directly between the old town and Plain de Plainpalais, so it makes a good transitional area for exploring.

• Parc des Eaux Vives

  address: entrance at the far end of Rue des Eaux Vives and the number 2 bus line. There's also a boat dock, with service from the Pâquis.
  This park offers promenades and views over the lake of the U.N. campus and the Palais des Nations. Geneva beach is at the end furthest from the city, on the lakefront.

• Parc de la GrangeJust along the south side of the Lake Geneva promenade, Parc de la Grange is a large park which contains a rose garden, an historic mansion and a tree-lined path leading to the nearby Parc des Eaux Vives.

• Bois de la BâtieJust over the river Arve from Jonction. Most of this woodsy bluff has been left in a more-or-less natural state, though there are walking trails around the edges. The trails connect eventually with a sidewalk which crosses a railroad bridge to the St. Jean neighborhood. There is also a small (free) zoo at the western edge of the woods. If you don't like to walk up the trail from the river you can take the bus up to Claire Vue.

• Jardin AnglaisA small park where people like to spend their lunch break. Located at the bank of Lake Geneva, just as you've crossed over the Mont Blanc bridge to the southern half of the city. In the summer there are many small concerts and funfairs held in the park, especially around at the time of the "city party" Fête de Gèneve. Don't miss the flower decorated clock at the southwestern edge of the park.

• La Perle du Lac

  address: Rue de Lausanne
  Translates to the "Pearl of the Lake" and is the largest park on the western bank of Lake Geneva. It hosts the splendid eponymous restaurant and a free science museum, but it also a great place for a picnic.

Language

French language lessons are available, both through formal courses and informal arrangements, but in both cases they can be more expensive than other French-speaking countries.

• Geneva University also offers quite cheap classes and there are a number of the big language schools, including Berlitz and Inlingua.
• One well-known school is École Du Monde located near the train station and near the lake of Geneva.
• Migros also offers language courses at rather decent prices.
• IFAGE (Fondation pour la formation des adultes) has a strong reputation locally, and offers intensive French courses in addition to vocational training and language courses aimed at locals. IFAGE also offers preparation for the French Government's DELF and DALF exams.

Higher education

There are several English language universities in Geneva, mostly focusing on international business and relations.

Research

The world-famous European Organization for Nuclear Research CERN is in Meyrin, just outside of Geneva. The tram line 18 runs to the CERN campus from Cornavin station in downtown. It is hosting the Large Hadron Collider (LHC) which, at 27 km in circumference, holds the title of "world's largest machine". It will hopefully answer many fundamental questions in particle physics and open a host of new ones. CERN has a famous summer student program that accepts 150 European students, 20 American students, and a handful from other countries. CERN also features an exhibition open to the public and tours can be arranged in advance. The World-Wide Web started at CERN.

Many foreign professionals working in Geneva are employed by one of the United Nations agencies or international banks. Non-Swiss UN employees get a special visa to live and work in Switzerland, but the jobs can be hard to find unless you are already in Geneva. If you are a EU citizen, you can accept a job offer by any other employer since the bilateral agreements between Switzerland and the EU allow you to work here as anywhere else on the continent - whether you are a blue or white collar worker. Unemployment is on a rather stable level but the uncertainties during the financial crisis led to higher competition for jobs.
For temporary or student jobs such as work as an au pair, a housekeeper, or at one of the many bars, you do not necessarily need to be very proficient in French. You ideally should be in town to set this sort of thing up. If you want to do household work, you will probably want to advertise on the bulletin boards which can be found at the entrances of most grocery stores, at the English and American churches, and at the American Women's Club, and join the respective groups online, such as on Facebook. For a bar tending job, talk to the manager (you should know enough French to serve drinks).

Switzerland is famed as a land of banks and financial institutions, so getting local cash from ATMs at banks, train station and within shopping malls should pose no problem. Also, Euros are accepted at many larger stores and places that cater to international visitors.

• Chocolate can be bought at any number of specialty stores, but the stuff at the grocery is just as good for a fraction of the price (Fr. 1-3 a bar). Meanwhile, if you have a place to prepare meals the grocery stores in Switzerland offer the best possible dining deal for your money. For many fresh foods you'll pay a lot more than you are accustomed to paying in the U.S. or Britain.
• Wine and spirits cost much less than in Anglophone countries, and the local stuff is particularly cheap, and not just drinkable but quite good. Some say that the only reason Swiss wines are not well known internationally is that the Swiss drink all of it.
• Shopping for clothing and accessories can be disappointing in Geneva. Most offerings are usually expensive and uninteresting, unless you're really after that floor-length purple fur coat with the rhinestone trim. Geneva is home to several watch manufacturers, and there are many jewelers and horologers with a great selection.
• If you are interested in taking back some Swiss souvenirs for your relatives you can find them on the main street, Rue de la Croix d'Or, and also along the main streets leading down to the lake from Gare Cornavin. You should be able to easily find at reasonable prices:

• Watches & Pocket watches. Most people will only know the most advertised brands but in switzerland there are probably more than a hundred brands. Don't worry, if it is written Swiss Made on it, it's a top quality watch.
• Cuckoo clocks. Either mechanical the most traditionnal one and now also battery operated. Made in Germany.
• Swiss Army Knives. Swiza and Victorinox being the two most well-known brands (Prices are same throughout switzerland).
• Music Boxes. Related to watchmaking, music boxes are a very traditional swiss made product. The brand Reuge is the most famous one but there are some cheaper ones.
• Almost any sort of object with a cow or a Swiss flag printed on it.

Want more? La

Rue du Marché

, a 10-minute walk southwards from the train station, has just about everything. From the traditional to the modern, from souvenirs to household appliances to libraries to prescription glasses. This is one of Geneva's busiest streets (And don't get confused because this main street has 4 different names. From East to West: Rue de Rive - Rue de la Croix d'Or - Rue du Marché and Rue de la Confédération), and is kept clean and appealing. Prices are fair for the most part, but checking several stores before buying, or asking a friendly-looking passer-by for shopping tips can't hurt.

• If you are looking for Louis Vuitton-fashion and golden wristwatches,

  Rue du Rhône

  on the south side of the river (running parallel to Marché) is a good place. Of course you can easily find them elsewhere in the city - this is Switzerland!

• Manor

  address: 6 rue de Cornavin
  A department store in the city center where you can buy clothes, food, electronics, souvenirs, clocks etc. There is a self service restaurant on the top floor.

• Centre Commercial Cygnes

  address: 16-20 rue de Lausanne
  A variety of smaller shops and eateries under one roof a short walk along Rue de Lausanne from the railway station.

• Flea market at PlainpalaisIf you like flea markets and shuffling through old stuff like vinyl records, books, chinaware etc., especially stuff with a Swiss and French background and happen to be in Geneva on a Saturday (or some Wednesdays), Plainpalais square is definitely where you should head.

Geneva has a huge number of restaurants for a city its size, and the international community means there's more variety than you'll find in most Swiss cities. On the downside, Geneva is possibly the most expensive city in an expensive country. Additionally, it can be quite difficult to find food on Sunday night, so it might be worth planning ahead or just visiting the more touristy region near the train station. If you have the possibility to cook your own food, self catering is a good idea to save money. If you are staying for a longer period, it's a good idea to make shopping trips to supermarkets in France where many foods cost less than half of what they do in Geneva.

Budget

There are many budget spots located around the train station and in the nearby Paquis district, or near rue de l'Ecole de Médecine off Plaine de Plainpalais.

• Buvette des Bains (Bains des Paquis)

  phone: +41 22 738 16 16
  address: 30, quai du Mont-Blanc
  Wonderful place in the middle of the lake. Beach in Summer, fondue restaurant in Winter. Good "plat du jour" all day for Fr. 12

• Espresso Club

  phone: +41 22 738 84 88
  address: rue des Pâquis 25
  A tiny bar and three tables means this little local spot is usually packed with a very international crowd of people who know where to get the best pizza, salads, and pasta dishes in town, with many vegetarian selections. Espresso club keeps the ovens going late for late working customers and it's a nice spot for a café and newspaper afternoon as well. Unfortunately the quality of its customer service does not mirror that of its pizzas.

• Café Art's

  phone: +41 22 738 07 97
  address: rue des Pâquis 17
  Café Art's (sic) has a limited menu of salads and pasta dishes, but all around or under Fr. 15 and service is non-stop all day.

• Sing Fa la maison du Ravioli (Sing Fa dumpling house)

  phone: +41 22 321 75 38
  address: Rue de la Calle 42
  Serves fairly authentic Chinese dumplings and noodles.

• Boky

  phone: +41 78 628 16 99
  address: Rue des Alpes 21
  Large selection of Chinese and Japanese dishes. Fast, but impolite service. Quality Chinese food (it's always full of Chinese customers) but no fancy atmosphere.

• Piment Vert

  phone: +41 22 731 93 03
  address: 4 place Grenus
  Indian and Sri Lankan fast food in a charmingly appointed space. There's also a terrace during warm weather.

• Chez Ma CousineA chain with a simple menu: chicken, chicken, or chicken. The roasted chicken is what they're famous for, and two chicken salads make the rest of the regular menu, each under Fr. 14.90.

• phone: +41 22 310 96 96
  address: pl. du Bourg-de-Four 6

• phone: +41 22 733 79 85
  address: ch. du Petit-Saconnex 2

• phone: +41 22 731 98 98
  address: rue Lissignol 5

Mike WongInauthentic Thai, but not terrible.

• phone: +41 22 731 49 25
  address: bd James-Fazy 11

• phone: +41 22 800 15 03
  address: rue du Conseil-Général 20

Ali Haydar

address: 26 Rue de Lausanne

Serves kebabs of lamb, chicken, or both, dolma. Baklava too.

Cafe Istanbul

address: Rue du Mont Blanc

Turkish kebab house.

Manora

phone: +41 22 909 41 11

address: Rue de Cornavin 6

Cafeteria like serving area with everything and anything including (but not inclusive): chicken, pasta, pizza, desserts, entree of the day, salads, and coffee. Great view of the Geneva skyline from the balcony eating area.

Wasabi Sushi

address: 21 rue du Mont Blanc, 32 Boulevard Helvetique

As the name suggests, Japanese food to eat in the restaurant or to take away.

Boulangerie Tea-Room Deux-Ponts

phone: +41 22 320 7621

address: 27 rue des Deux-Ponts

Portuguese "tea room" serving sandwiches, bifanas (hot sandwiches) and pastries that are fresh, delicious, large and don't cost very much. The catch: they don't have very much on display so you can't just point at stuff but need to explain what you would like to order and how you'd like it - in French or Portuguese!

La feuille de banane

address: rue de Carouge 29

One of the best ratios of food quality to price in Geneva for Asiatic food. For around Fr. 10, you can have a tasty meal with chicken, beef or fish, and a various choices of sauces. The service is ultra fast since everything is already cooked, but yet fresh and tasty.

Restaurant La Romana

phone: +41 22 734 82 86

address: Rue de Vermont 37

Restaurant, pizzeria, bar, karaoké, cocktail and private party.

Mid-range

• Café de Paris

  address: 26 Rue du Mont-Blanc
  Vegetarians beware, this Genevois favourite serves one dish only: steak with the butter sauce that bears the name of the restaurant, French fries, and salad. But apparently they do it very well.

• Café du Soleil

  phone: +41 22 733 34 17
  address: Place du Petit-Saconnex
  This ancient Petit Saconnex roadhouse claims to be possibly the oldest restaurant in Geneva and to have probably the best fondue in Switzerland. They have a nice large patio in front that is overlooked by a 2nd floor balcony with a few small tables and also inside seating. Surprisingly popular even if it's in a mostly residential part of Geneva, even among international guests.

• Café Gourmand

  phone: +41 22 328 56 56
  address: 35 Rue des Bains
  Great friendly atmosphere specializing in East-West fusion dishes. Open weekdays.

• Le Comptoir

  address: Rue de Richemont 9
  Easy-Listener-chic Asian/fusion restaurant and bar sporting white leather sofas and the occasional local DJ. Not a cheap choice, but the food is unusually interesting and the crowd friendly.

• L'Europa

  phone: +41 22 740 09 05
  address: Rue du Valais 16
  A little hard to find, but worth it for the fresh, hand made pasta dishes and generous portions. A favourite for lunch among the UN crowd.

• Hashimoto

  phone: +41 22 7367680
  address: 6 Rue de Villereuse
  Hashimoto Sushi is a favourite spot for Japanese diplomats and international civil servants in Geneva, which should tell you enough.

• L'Adresse

  phone: +41 22 736 32 32
  address: 32 Rue du 31 décembre
  Self-consciously hip but decent food. Occasionally snooty service.

• L'Entrecôte Couronnée

  phone: +41 22 732 84 45
  address: 5 Rue des Pâquis
  Excellent steak restaurant with fast and efficient staff. The wine card is limited but has good Swiss wines. Just 40 seats so better reserve a table

• La Table du 9

  phone: +41 22 310 25 50
  address: 9 Rue Verdaine
  Relaxed, modern and justifiably busy.

• Edward's The fine art of sandwiches

  address: 1 rue de la Cité
  Packed with locals at lunchtime and for a reason - delicious warm sandwiches and cakes. On the downside it is a bit hectic and it might be difficult to find a seat.

• Brasserie Bagatelle

  phone: +41 22 7322629
  address: Place des 22 cantons
  A centrally located restaurant with a varied menu and moderate prices for being in the middle of Geneva. Really good tartar with French fries.

• Le Montparnasse

  address: 58 Avenue Wendt
  French and Swiss cuisine and a healthy "antidote" to the extremely touristy restaurants serving Swiss food. Most of the visitors are older locals who drop in for a few glasses of wine and a chat with the owner. Try the menu of the day and a good local wine!

• La Cuccagna

  phone: +41 22 342 0882
  address: 33 Rue St-Joseph
  Cosy Italian restaurant in Carouge with a wide variety of well known and lesser known Italian dishes and even occasionally live music. The service is a bit slow but the ambience so you won't probably mind sitting there for a little bit longer.

Splurge

• Brasserie Lipp

  phone: +41 22 311 10 11
  address: 8 Rue de la Confederation
  Good brasserie, lots of seafood.

• Café des Négociants

  address: 29 rue de la Filature
  Wonderful hip restaurant with wonderful hip food and a wonderful hip wine cellar where you can wander around and choose from all the wonderful hip wine on the racks. You can guess what the desserts are like. Everyone wants a piece of this place, so plan to reserve up to a week or so in advance.

• Da Renato

  phone: +41 22 345 50 00
  address: Rue Jacques-Dalphin 14
  Italian-style restaurant.

• Edelweiss Manotel

  address: Place de la Navigation 2
  This is a must if you want to taste the Swiss culture. You will get the cheese fondue, of course, but also some other local delicacies. But you get there for the show: you can hear and see folklore music and yodelling singers, as well as many other instruments. It is however a very touristic restaurant and you are not likely to see many Swiss people eating there.

• Perle du Lac

  phone: +41 22 909 10 20
  address: 126 rue de Lausanne
  The only restaurant located adjacent to the Lake Geneva footpath. Food and service are excellent. The view of the Lake is excellent and the ambiance is outstanding.

• Le Triporteur

  phone: +41 22 321 21 81
  address: 33 rue de Carouge
  This little place fills a nice niche at the low end of the high end, where it is likely to impress the heck out of a date without overly denting the bank account. The room is cosy and romantic. The service is attentive, but not at all pushy or snobbish. The Triporteur has the feel of a lot of the better restaurants in say, San Francisco. Expect to spend around Fr. 50 per person if you're drinking the house wine.

• La Veranda

  address: 20 rue des Alpes
  A pleasant restaurant with Italian flair in the Hotel International-Terminus.

• Les Brasseurs

  phone: +41 22 731 02 06
  address: 20 Place de Cornavin
  One of the few brew pubs in Geneva, Les Brass serves three flavours of home brew in the usual half pints, pints, and litre glasses or you can go for one of the giant plastic tubes filled with three to five litres. A small menu of pub food and a full restaurant in the back makes it a good spot to waste an evening.

• Café de la Gare

  address: 2 Rue de Montbrillant
  Of the two restaurants attached to the Hotel Montbrillant this is the pick. The beautifully decorated but unpretentious Café de la Gare captures the laid-back feel of some of the best sidewalk cafés in Paris. It's a great place for dinner as well, with excellent Swiss, French, and Italian offerings.

• Pickwicks

  phone: +41 22-731 6797
  address: 80 Rue de Lausanne
  One of the half-dozen or so British pubs, Pickwicks claims to be the largest pub in Switzerland. Usually full of football watching expats eating fish and chips while sipping Guinness. Friday and Saturday night usually features live music. A laid-back, friendly spot. One of the best in Geneva for burgers and a dozen draft beers!

• Alhambar

  phone: +41 22 312 1313
  address: 10, rue de la Rôtisserie
  A swanky cocktail bar above the Alhambra Theater. Pretty people in a pretty room, usually with a DJ. A small tapas menu early in the evening and a nice brunch on weekends until 14:00.

• La Clémence

  address: Place Bourg-de-Four
  This cozy little bar on the central square of Geneva's old town more than quintuples in size from April until October when it is able to use a huge swath of the place as its terrace. During warm weather it's packed, but is such a lovely and central stopping point that it's worth the wait for a table - check out the gallery on their website. In the winter they have the best vin chaud in town.

• Café Demi-Lune

  address: 3, rue Etienne-Dumont
  Located in a small street connecting to Place du Bourg-de-Four (Old town), this little café has a very charming attitude and atmosphere. A good place for after dinner drinks with good friends.

• Saveurs & Couleurs Café

  phone: +41 22 734 63 52
  address: 24 rue des Grottes
  The Grottes neighborhood of Geneva has long been a center for creative types, many of whom can be found of an evening enjoying a glass of wine at this comfy little bistro.

• Boréal Coffee Shop

  phone: +41 22 310 69 60
  address: 60 rue du Stand
  This cozy coffee shop is in the bank district. Espressos, Cappuccinos, Lattes, Renversés, Macchiatos, Mochacinos, ice coffees and teas can be consumed there or take-away. The coffee is great, there is a free WIFI connection. This is the kind of places where you feel like staying hours, lovely!

• Les Enfants Terribles

  phone: +41 22 321 85 13
  address: rue Prévost-Martin 24
  A café bar bicycle-workshop hair salon and wine shop, with a nice lunch tapas buffet and Thursday night jazz in a beautiful post-industrial space with atrium roofs and an olive tree. What is there not to like?

• Grand Duke Pub

  phone: +41 22 732 7473
  address: Rue de Monthoux,8
  One of the oldest English pubs in Geneva. Live sports, wide selection of draught and bottled beers, ciders. More than 5 big television screens are there to watch different sports as well as a good area to play darts. You can enjoy watching sports such as NFL, NBA, Masters Tennis, Football League, Boxing, MLB, NHL, Premier League, and International Rugby union. Also serves lunch specials, burgers, steaks, salads and chips.

• Mulligans Irish Pub

  phone: +41 22 732 85 76
  address: Rue de-Grenus
  You will be guaranteed a great time at this centrally located pub. Good music most nights. Bands often play on Thurs-Fri evenings. A good lively crowd who know how to party. Guinness, Bulmers, Staropramen, Boddingtons, spirits, shots.

Plain de Plainpalais

Around a dozen of the best bars in town are located around this diamond shaped parade and circus ground in the area southwest of the old town. This shouldn't be surprising since the many buildings of the Université de Genève are ranged around it as well.

• Remor

  phone: +41 22 328 12 70
  address: Place de Cirque 1
  Really the best Parisien style grande café in Geneva. Artwork by University Students and sometimes the Proprietor hang on the wall. They also offer two salads of the day, and a range of ice-cream treats. They screen the best of Swiss film, for free. Fr. 3.50/5.00 draft/bottle beers. Free Wi-fi available.

• Le Ferblanterie

  address: 8, rue de l'Ecole-de-Médecine
  The Ferblanterie, or Tinsmith would be one of the coolest bars in just about any town, and it happens to be on a street loaded with cool bars. This is very much a student haunt, and a grungy one in all the right ways. Some of the cds in the rack above the cd player are by Paulo Conté, Tom Waits, Fugazi, the Art Ensemble of Chicago, and Charles Mingus, if that tells you anything.

• L'Etabli

  address: 5, rue de l'Ecole-de-Médecine
  L'Etabli is a great place to go when the Ferblanterie is packed, or perhaps it's the other way around. This super-friendly little café/bar/wine bar is a great place to meet grad students to help with your French, or to help with their English, or just to argue politics or whatever.

Dance

• Bypass

  phone: +41 22 300 6565
  address: Carrefour de l’Etoile 1, Carouge
  One of the most modern clubs in Geneva, the Bypass is, for lack of a better word, bling-bling. The dance floor swarms with young professionals and, on occasion, corporate parties and the rooms pound with clean house music, hip-hop and R'n'B. This club is not near the city center, but still just a short taxi ride from it.

• Java Club

  address: 19, Quai du Mont - Blanc
  Inside the Grand Hotel Kempinski

• Shakers

  phone: +41 22 310 5598
  address: rue Winkelried 4
  This club is known for the wild nights within, thanks to its very strong cocktails served in shaker glasses. The dance floor is imposing, but once on it, well known for romantic encounters. Very popular with English speakers.

• Weetamix

  address: 37 Chemin Jacques Philbert
  Although it's not the easiest place to get to, Weetamix is able to attract good, mostly local crowds by consistently booking some of the best cutting-edge talent in electronic music from France, Britain, and the U.S..

• The Zoo at l'UsineSee Moloko Bar under Drink or their homepage.

There are a lot of hotels in Geneva, but very few of them are actually in anything like the budget range. Hundreds, many right around the central Cornavin train station offer a pretty standard rate of Fr. 135 per night for a single. If you arrive late and are willing to spend that it makes sense to look at the automated hotel board in the train station to find the nearest vacancy.
It's hardest to find lodging during large international conferences, and trade shows. The latter, of which the prime example is the Salon d'Auto are usually held at Palexpo. It's worthwhile to do a bit of research to see if your arrival is likely to coincide with one of these events.
For lower hotel prices, try the outlying French cities of Annemasse or Gaillard which are conveniently accessible via public transit from Gare Cornavin.

Budget

• Youth Hostel Geneva

  phone: +41 22 732 62 60
  address: Rue Rothschild 30
  A clean well maintained place. Well placed for access to the bars and restaurants of the Paquis, and only a 15-minute walk from the central station. Floors, lockers, and doors, unfortunately, are all fairly loud, and if staying in a shared room, you must bring ear plugs.

• City Hostel Geneva

  phone: +41 22 901 15 00
  address: Rue Ferrier 2
  A clean and hassle-free, if somewhat soul-less, hostel located near the budget food haven of Paquis and the central train station.

• Cité Universitaire

  phone: +41 22 839 22 22
  address: Avenue de Miremont 46
  A huge dorm space with 500 beds, which means that if all else fails you can probably sleep here and it's cheap. It is a bit far out of the old town though, about 2 km south on the bluff of Champel, which overlooks the Arve river across from Carouge. However, is right next to the crets de Champel line 3 stop. Because it is not a hotel, the reception closes at 21:00. Call first to make sure that there is availablity. If you do stay there check out the tower of Champel in the morning.

• Hotel Formule 1

  phone: +33 891 705 254
  address: Route de Meyrin, 01210 Ferney Voltaire, France
  Right behind the airport on the French side. Inexpensive but still a good standard since it belongs to the Accor hotel chain. Walls are thin. Decorations are cute. Breakfast is available for an additional 4 francs. It can be difficult to get to by public transit (o bus to the roundabout next to the shopping center from meyrin-graviere stop, line 14) and it's a 40 franc taxi trip from the airport, so it's probably best for groups, those stranded at the airport, or people who are driving. Don't book beforehand; the prices online are more expensive. Consider bringing slippers, toiletries, and a towel if you want a room without a bathroom (10 francs cheaper). Also, bolt the door as the locks don't work correctly.

• Hotel de Geneve

  phone: +41 22 732 32 64
  address: Famille Ray Place Isaac Mercier
  5-minute walk from Cornavin Station, 4 bus stops away from St. Pierre Cathedral.

Mid-range

There are hundreds of mid-range hotels in Geneva.

• Hotel Residence St.James

  address: Rue du Versonnex 3
  The St-James Residence is in an elegant district in the centre of town on a street parallel with the River Rhone.

• Eastwest

  phone: +41 22 708 17 17
  address: 6, rue des Paquis
  Modern 4-star for business travellers and tourists. Good central location, nice neighbourhood for a late drink. 41 rooms & suites.

• Hotel Lido

  phone: +41 22 731 55 30
  address: Rue de Chantepoulet 8
  Simple 2-star close to the train station and outside the red-light district.

• Le Montbrillant

  phone: +41 22 733 77 84
  address: 2 rue de Montbrillant
  This lovely hotel is in an excellent location. Try to get a room on the top floor under the sloping roof. With two good restaurants: Café de la Gare and a pizzeria.

• Hôtel Bel'Espérance

  phone: +41 22 818 37 37
  address: Rue de la Vallée 1
  3-star run by the Salvation Army, the Bel'Espérance is less hotel like than many hotels; they have a little kitchen with small individual refrigerators if you want to cook, and considering how close the hotel is to the Wednesday morning farmer's market on blvd Helvetique there's a pretty good chance you will want to. You can take your meals on the rooftop terrace or in the big, comfy lounge area.

• Hotel Strasbourg

  phone: +41 22 906 58 00
  address: Rue Pradier 10
  Very central 3-star hotel. The desk staff are very knowledgeable and helpful.

• Hôtel-Résidence du Grand-Saconnex

  address: 175 route de Ferney, Grand-Saconnex
  Cheapest available in Geneva near airport. Studio or standard rooms. Restaurant serves Swiss and Serbian food.

• Bernina

  address: 22, Place Cornavin
  Three-star hotel, very central.

• Hotel Drake Longchamp

  address: 7 Rue Butini
  3-star hotel, member of Swiss Quality Hotels International.

• Grand-Pré Hotel

  address: 35, rue du Grand-Pré
  Four-star hotel, was under Swiss Quality banner but no longer listed there, and may not be open.

• Hotel Mon-Repos

  address: 131, rue de Lausanne
  Three-star superior hotel situated close to UN and botanic gardens.

• Hotel N'vY

  phone: +41 22 544 66 66
  address: 18, rue Richemont
  Arty, renovated mid-range hotel. Internet is included. Good location close to the lake.

• Hotel Ibis Genève Centre Gare

  phone: +41 22 3382020
  address: 10 rue Voltaire
  A typical clean chain hotel, with basic room facilities. The hotel is centrally located, yet on a quiet street so it's a great base for weekend sightseeing travellers.

• Residence La Reserve

  phone: +33 4 50 40 30 20
  address: 1 Avenue du Jura, Ferney Voltaire France
  Pleasant 4-star hotel with garden, gym and swimming pool. Free wifi internet. Suites & studios with small kitchens. Take bus F to the airport or downtown Geneva.

Splurge

There are several grand hotels in Geneva with old-world luxury and distinguished guest lists.

• Les Armures

  phone: +41 22 310 91 72
  address: 1 Rue du Puits St-Pierre
  Lovely 17th-century building in the old town with notable guest list, rooms modern Scandinavian-style.

• Beau Rivage

  phone: +41 22 716 66 66
  address: 13 Quai du Mont-Blanc
  Grand old five-star hotel with beautiful interior, old European style, impeccable service. Outstanding restaurants & choice of vintage wines. In 1898 Empress Elisabeth of Austria stayed here, but she was stabbed by an anarchist on the promenade outside and died.

• Four Seasons Hotel Des Bergues

  phone: +41 22 908 70 00
  address: Quai des Bergues 33
  The oldest of Geneva's super-luxury hotels, this palace faces the old town from a superb central right-bank position. A favourite among European royalty.

• Grand Hotel Kempinski

  phone: +41 22 908 9081
  address: 19, Quai du Mont-Blanc
  Very modern and luxurious 5-star hotel, popular with corporate clients. Features a mini-mall, health club and conference rooms.

• Hotel President Wilson

  phone: +41 22 906 66 66
  address: 47 Quai Wilson
  Modern five-star hotel, bright decor and many rooms with lake view. Popular with UN staff and Arab families, has one of the best Lebanese restaurants in town.

• Hotel Metropole Geneva

  phone: +41 22 318 33 50
  address: 34 Quai Général Guisan
  Five-star hotel with nice old ambiance, good service. Faces the Jardin Anglais, but for views of the lake or jet d'eau take a room on 3rd floor or higher (one of the suites).

• Le Richemond

  phone: +41 22 715 70 00
  address: Jardin Brunswick
  Five-star hotel in Art Deco style. With restaurant & spa. The Royal Armleder Suite rates as one of the top ten most expensive suites in the world.

Geneva is by and large a very safe place. Violent crime was almost unheard of, although it's important to keep an eye on your belongings in public, as petty theft is a fairly common occurrence. Do report any such activity to the police, you will probably find them much more interested and helpful than police in many other western cities, especially if you speak a little French.
Since 2013 an increase in violent crime was reported, especially during the nighttime and near party areas. Alcohol & aggressive behaviour led to fights between the multicultural mix in the city. Also burglary is increasing due to organised crime groups, keep your hotel/apartment doors always well locked and close windows etc. when you leave your place.
There is a huge amount of vandalism in the city. On every street you can see bicycles with stolen seats, wheels, everything not locked. Many bicycles are vandalised and destroyed.
A rigged street game "hiding the ball" used to be commonplace near the bridges south of the railway station. As of 2015, police have (according to local reports) systematically rounded up the con-men behind these shell games; hopefully you won't run into them any longer.

Phone

Local cellphone service is mainly provided by Swisscom, Salt, and Sunrise. Yallo, Migros and Coop have their own mobile offers. Don't be surprised if you find your phone using a cell in neighbouring France however. If you buy one in Switzerland you will have to either just accept the occasional roaming fee, or be prepared to set the phone manually.
If you are staying for a while you should consider getting a SIM card/and or a phone since it's much cheaper and easier than dealing with payphones. These days you do have to register your name and an address to get a SIM card to avoid fraud.
Payphones are still fairly common here, but very few of them accept coins, so be prepared to buy a prepaid card or to use a credit card (no surcharge).

Internet cafés

Internet cafés have just begun to really take off in Geneva, and there are now several that stay open fairly late.

• Internet Café CornavinThis convenient and friendly place offers printing, and laptop stations. If you do plan to use your laptop you need to be able to demonstrate that you have anti-virus software

• Point6

  phone: +41 22 800 26 00
  address: 12 rue Jean Violette
  Primarily a gamer internet cafe, but becoming quite popular with casual internet users. Scanning/photocopying/printing, diskettes/CD burning, faxing services available. Staffed by young people who are very friendly.

Wireless hotspots

The city of Geneva provides a very good coverage of Free WiFi network in almost all public parks. Just look for the "ville-de-geneve" network. Other locations include:

• Cafe de la GareCafé de la Gare (see Drink) is a Swisscom hotspot. To use the service you need to either be a Swisscom Mobile customer (see Phone) or buy access cards sold at any Swisscom office, and at the Montbrillant reception desk. The cards have timed values ranging from a half-hour to 1 month of continuous use.

• Parc des Bastions and its libraryIn the Parc des Bastions, there is free Wi-Fi internet access available. Just log on to the ville-de-geneve or Bastions network. The public library of the city is located inside the same park, and the same network listed above is available inside. Search for the reading room (Salle de lecture), on the 1st floor. There is even electricity to plug your notebook.

• La Sphere

  address: 80-82 rue de Lausanne
  This cosy pool/billiard place has free Wi-Fi, as well as pool tables, darts and delicious pizza.

For more hotspots, this site might help: Freespots

The Swiss are beyond punctual when it comes to closing hours. So if a museum is supposed to close at 17:00, expect that at 16:47 you will be asked to leave and if you point out that closing hours are still 13 minutes away you might get expelled. If you arrive after 16:31, you'll more than likely be denied entrance. The same applies to shops and pretty much every public activity with a schedule. Lunch hour at most restaurants ends at 14:00 (and last orders at 13:45 for the more strict ones) with dinner service starting again at 18:00.

Nearby

Geneva is almost completely surrounded by France; the nearest major town is Annemasse (southeast of Geneva) and presents little interest. East of Geneva, Switzerland extends into the neighbouring canton of Vaud, which offers many attractions; the world heritage Lavaux region is forty minutes away by train, and has spectacular views of the vineyards, Lake Geneva and the French Alps. On the same riviera, both cities of Montreux (with its 12th century Chillon Caste) and Lausanne (with its Olympic Museum) have beautiful lake-side promenades and are very lively in the summer.
In winter, many mountain resorts in the Swiss, French and Italian Alps are readily accessible from Geneva by car or public transport.
Small towns in neighbouring France that can also be visited as a half-day trip are Saint-Julien en Genevois south of Geneva and Ferney-Voltaire (with the small castle once owned by the philosopher Voltaire) just north of the airport.
You can also take city bus E along the eastern shore of Lake Geneva to the village of Hermance, which has a beach, a tower that can be visited and old houses typical for the region.

Further away

Swiss destinations are almost all served by the CFF from the central train station (Gare Cornavin) while ski resorts in the French alps and the Jura can be reached by bus from the central bus station off of Rue de Mont Blanc or from SNCF's Gare des Eaux Vives. The price of the bus ticket often covers ski lift tickets as well, be sure to ask.
Here are just a few places which make a good day trip from Geneva:

• Lausanne
• Montreux
• Gruyères
• Chamonix
• Evian
• Annecy
• Yvoire
• Thonon

By hitchhiking

Hitchhiking is relatively safe and more common in Switzerland than France, for example, but almost as difficult if you're not a woman. The A1 motorway surrounds the city, with connections to the rest of Switzerland and neighbouring France.
To hitchhike to the direction of Lausanne (North) take bus number 29 towards Gare Zimeysa and step out at stop Blandonnet. Walk back 200m Route de Meyrin towards the center, across the bridge over the highway and you´ll find an on-ramp to highway towards Lausanne. (Another, even better possibility is to take tram 14 or 16 in direction of Meyrin and step out at the Avanchet. Then walk forward 200 m.) Walk down 100 m along the on-ramp and hitchhike before the speed gets high. The position is very good, speed of the cars low, visibility good and there's plenty of space for cars to stop. You should accept a ride at least to Nyon, where you can continue hitchhiking on the on-ramp. (Hitchhiking on the on-ramp is illegal. Your best bet is usually to try and get a ride at one of the gas station/restaurants on the autoroute itself.)
To hitchhike to the direction of Chamonix and Turin (South-East) take bus 27 towards Thônex-Vallard-Douane and go to the end of the line. Walk through customs to France and stand at the end of the customs just before the cars speed up for the highway. Be sure to have your passport with you when crossing the border. The position is very good, the customs officers are nice, speed is low, there's space for cars to stop, all the traffic is passing through.
To hitchhike to the direction of Lyon and Paris (South-West, West, North-West) take the bus 29 to stop Blandonnet. Walk about 600m to the next on-ramp in direction of South, the one leading to the highway in the direction of South from Route de Vernier. The position is not very good because the cars speed up and visibility is not really good but there's place for cars to stop. Take a ride at least 10km South to the Swiss-French border, where there's a decent spot to continue. Walk through the customs and hitchhike - preferably with a sign - before the cars speed up. There's not much space for cars to stop but they can, speed is low and all the traffic is passing through the customs.