Manila/Tondo and San Nicolas

Slums, poverty and gangs is the first impression of Tondo by many people, and that's why this part of Manila is perhaps off-the-beaten-path, except for the Divisoria market popular with bargain hunters. The lack of historical sites of tourist importance also adds to the problem, but trying to dig down a bit can lead you to hidden spots.
Tondo has a population of over 630,000 people (as of 2007) in of land, making this district the densest in Manila; it is also reputed as one of the world's most densely populated neighborhoods. The population density is well reflected by the scarcity of high-density housing for poorer residents. The income gap is also well illustrated: most locals live on simple houses or low-density apartments, while mid-class people inhabit the towering condominiums that represent the district's ongoing gentrification.
Tondo's ethnic composition and culture are diverse, and waves of immigration creates the district's distinctive cultural blend. Southeastern Tondo and Divisoria is a northern extension of Binondo, so find many Filipino Chinese businesses and schools around. Anywhere, you will find Visayans, Ilocanos, Kapampangan, and other native ethnic groups. Muslim Filipinos are rather a tiny minority.

History

Tondo was the center of the namesake kingdom, the Kingdom of Tondo, one of the pre-Hispanic polities found in historical finds. The old polities fell to the Spanish colonizers, and Tondo became a Spanish overseas province, until its dissolution, where Tondo's northern halves became part of Bulacan and Rizal. Tondo became a center for Filipino revolutionaries, and is home to Andres Bonifacio who led the Philippine Revolution from 1896 and 1897, where he was executed by order of his archrival, Emilio Aguinaldo. American colonization followed the Revolution, but Tondo is almost reduced to ruins during the Japanese occupation.
The beginning of Tondo's reputation as a slum community started on postwar rebuilding. As people from many provinces migrated to Manila for better jobs, the district lacked adequate housing and services for the increasing migrant population, and many resorted to squatting. Funds from the World Bank used to improve living conditions caused skyrocketing land prices, so Manila's government decided to legalize the slums in the 1970s. Tondo today remains a large residential area, with the images of poverty and gang violence entering the public knowledge; living conditions in Tondo's slums have been covered locally and internationally, and the district's gang culture is showcased by the Philippine cinema through numerous films featuring Tondo's gangsters.

By train

The Philippine National Railways' main terminal and headquarters,

Tutuban

is at the Tutuban area. Most visitors from southern Metro Manila will come by train, and the station leads into Divisoria. The original train station is found where the Tutuban mall complex stands.
Trains from Bicol arrive at Tutuban, but service is suspended indefinitely as of 2013 and 2017. Metro Commuter Line trains to and from Muntinlupa and Calamba trains begin service at 05:07 and ends at 20:37, but trains can get stuffy on morning, noon, and evening rush hours. Pickpockets also lurk on the trains, so wear backpacks at the front and avoid placing valuables on rear pockets.

By e-trike

There are e-tricycles from Quiapo that travels to Tondo, terminating after Abad Santos Avenue. Fare is per head.

Filipino-Chinese schools

• Philippine Cultural College

  address: Abad Santos St.
  Established in 1923, it is the first and the oldest Chinese-Filipino secondary school in the Philippines.

• Chiang Kai Shek College

  address: 1247 Padre Algue St.

• St. Stephen's High School

  address: Masangkay St.

• Hope Christian High School

  address: Benavidez St.

• Uno High School

  address: Mayhaligue St.

• Philippine Academy of Sakya

  address: Masangkay St.

Places of worship

• Seng Guan Temple

  address: Padre Algue St.

• St. Stephen's Parish Church

  address: Masangkay St.

• San Jose de Trozo Church

  address: Masangkay St.

• United Evangelical Church of the Philippines

  address: Benavidez St

• Santo Niño de Tondo Church

  address: 600 Lorenzo Chacon St

Slum tours

Tondo is one of the few places to offer tours og its sprawling slums. The Smokey Mountain tenement which was a landfill that now houses apartments serving as residences for some of Manila's urban poor. The slum tourism industry is not formally organized; just ask a local to serve as your guide to get around, meet locals and see the everyday life in houses, schools, shops, and local food stops. Touring alone is inadvisable, as you are just exposed to the constant threat of street thugs finding their next victim.

Santo Niño de Tondo Festival

Tondo holds a feast dedicated to the Santo Niño (Holy Child) every third week of January. Festivities are centered on Tondo Church, which hosts an image of the Santo Niño. The peak of the festivities happen on the Lakbayaw Dance Festival, where local dance schools compete in the rattling sound of drums and brass music. The festivities draws people around Manila, and some non-locals and a few foreigners as well.

• Divisoria Market, the country's premier, if not the biggest combined wholesale and retail center, as well as the largest spillover ambulant and flea market, is here.

• Tutuban Mall

  address: West Loop Road, C. M. Recto Ave.
  This mall has gained reputation for it being a budget-friendly mall. Just across the mall is the Philippines' own Grand Central Station; the Philippine National Railway Main Station which also has the same name that of the mall.

• Tutuban Night Market

• Lan Zhou La Mian

  address: 819 Benavidez cr. Masangkay Street
  Famous for its hand-pulled noodles.

• SuZhou Dimsum

  address: Masangkay St.
  Famous for its Xiao Long Bao

• Ha Yuan

  address: Masangkay St.
  Famous for its Maki Noodles and fresh Lumpia.

• ErSao (二嫂)

  address: Abad Santos St.
  Serves Taiwanese food.

• Sizzling Pares

  address: La Torre St.
  Typical place where students eat. Serves sizzling Filipino food.

• Eat Fresh

  address: Abad Santos St.
  Known to be one of the pioneers of Hongkong Style Fried Noodles in the Philippines. First started as a small restaurant in Masangkay St. now has two branches - one in Manila and the other at Quezon City. Serves Hongkong street foods.

There are many non-government organizations working to improve living conditions in the slums, and volunteer work is a viable work option if you plan to stay in Tondo for the long term.

Tondo has a sketchy reputation for violent crime; locals may tell you that Tondo is the gang capital of the Philippines. While the old days of the Hari ng Tondo (King of Tondo) are long gone, criminal rings continue to jostle for dominance in many residential areas with police raids and street brawls (rambol), and local politicians, mostly barangay officials, have fell victim in the crossfire. Never get into a narrow alley without knowing where to go, and watch out for those street vagabonds that may impulsively approach you, and at worse, beat you; that's where kursonada comes to play. It is also easy to get lost into gang turf; find the nearest police or barangay tanod (watcher) outpost to find your way out.
The Divisoria area can be dangerous for the unwary traveller. Women travellers must be more cautious; jewelry like earrings are frequent magnets for thieves, and some homeless children are involved in these crimes. Crowded pasilyos (corridors) inside the malls can be havens for pickpockets and gropers.

Binondo is just next door, if you are tired of wandering and window shopping in Divisoria.